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Speedcat
Ive seen those before, but I don't want the situation tog et to that point. Im trying to find a solution for safety and practicality. thanks mad penguin, but i want to be sure. I dont wan tto take chances on a 15 amp timer based on some one else luck.
I would look for a timer that is UL rated. The one I use is designed for swimming pool pump operations. UL rated, can be used outdoors in the rain. GE brand.
The Slickster
Member
You can use a Coralife digital timer from Petsmart, they are reduced to around $30. And yes, each will safely run 1,000 watts per each timer on different outlets. Have 2 that turn on 5 minutes apart to let the digital ballasts warm up and not suck too much power all at once. It's better if you have a digital ballast too, and keep it cool with your intake/outake ventilation so it will last longer and not overheat.
These household timers aren't designed to be used with the lights we use, we use inductive load they use conductive load. Get yourself a contactor relay and you'll be fine to use any timer. Someone really needs to make a sticky thread about this before more people burn their houses down, it's quite an important thing to know for growing.
Intermatic digital water heater timer
These are heavy duty and rated for a fair amount of power. The 240v model is double pole and has independent schedules for both poles iirc (verify before purchase) and can be used to run dual 120v 1000s independently from separate outlets. Minor wiring skills and knowledge needed. They program like most Intermatic digitals.
I know the 240v unit is available at Grainger.
These are heavy duty and rated for a fair amount of power. The 240v model is double pole and has independent schedules for both poles iirc (verify before purchase) and can be used to run dual 120v 1000s independently from separate outlets. Minor wiring skills and knowledge needed. They program like most Intermatic digitals.
I know the 240v unit is available at Grainger.
puff adder
Member
I thought I read that you needed to use the available wiring in the apartment. Personally, I would never run my ballasts off of 110 outlets. 220 is the way to go IMO.
I was just saying that regardless of the power or voltage used, you want the main power to go through relays and not through the timers.
CAP and others sell controllers that work with both 110 and 220, and are triggered by a 110 plug from the timer.
My present setup has the controller hooked up to my dryer outlet (220), it has 4 plug outlets for the ballasts. It has a 110 trigger plug receptacle that the wall timer is plugged into (wall timer is plugged into the wall outlet). The controller will not turn the lights on unless it has the 110 power from the timer.
This same setup "could" be used with one 1000 watt light on 110, but you'd be really close to maxxing out the 110 wiring.
At one time I had a 1000 plugged into the wall, but if you used Anything else (hair dryer, vacum, space heater) it would pop the breaker. This IMO is not safe-too close to the max capacity of most houses 110 wiring.
This way, the power for the lights doesn't run through the timer.
Regardless of your power voltage, IMO you want the switching to be done with relays and not the wall timers.
Does your apartment have an electric oven or dryer outlet? That's where I would start. Either of those outlets are 220 usually. A temporary wire could be run under the floor or up and through the attic and into the room with minimal damage (just a small hole for the wire) I would think.
I was just saying that regardless of the power or voltage used, you want the main power to go through relays and not through the timers.
CAP and others sell controllers that work with both 110 and 220, and are triggered by a 110 plug from the timer.
My present setup has the controller hooked up to my dryer outlet (220), it has 4 plug outlets for the ballasts. It has a 110 trigger plug receptacle that the wall timer is plugged into (wall timer is plugged into the wall outlet). The controller will not turn the lights on unless it has the 110 power from the timer.
This same setup "could" be used with one 1000 watt light on 110, but you'd be really close to maxxing out the 110 wiring.
At one time I had a 1000 plugged into the wall, but if you used Anything else (hair dryer, vacum, space heater) it would pop the breaker. This IMO is not safe-too close to the max capacity of most houses 110 wiring.
This way, the power for the lights doesn't run through the timer.
Regardless of your power voltage, IMO you want the switching to be done with relays and not the wall timers.
Does your apartment have an electric oven or dryer outlet? That's where I would start. Either of those outlets are 220 usually. A temporary wire could be run under the floor or up and through the attic and into the room with minimal damage (just a small hole for the wire) I would think.
http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/cap-upm1-120v-universal-power-module-p-1392.html
It costs 70 bucks, but since you only want to run one 1000 watt and obviously don't want to build it yourself I think this is a good option.
The Cap multi light controllers still need to be wired to 240 using your breaker box or dryer cord, but this one doesn't need to be.
You can then just use whatever cheap digital timer you want.
You should be just fine if the light is the only thing you are running on the circuit. 10 amps on a 15 amp breaker is only 66% usage, well below the magical 80%.
It costs 70 bucks, but since you only want to run one 1000 watt and obviously don't want to build it yourself I think this is a good option.
The Cap multi light controllers still need to be wired to 240 using your breaker box or dryer cord, but this one doesn't need to be.
You can then just use whatever cheap digital timer you want.
You should be just fine if the light is the only thing you are running on the circuit. 10 amps on a 15 amp breaker is only 66% usage, well below the magical 80%.
madpenguin
Member
Speedcat, the vote seems to lean towards using relays and I agree. As far as someone making a sticky SuperConductor, FreezerBoy already did. It's the sticky right up top. And there is a light controller tutorial in my sig.
Speedcat, If you want, I can tell you how to make one for much cheaper and especially designed for your setup. It's really not as hard as you may think.
madpenguin
Member
T-Type posted your best bet if you don't want to wire anything. It's the same thing I was going to tell you how to make. I don't like the way those receptacles look tho. I know what they are and where they come from. I personally don't like the contacts in them that mate with the male plug of your ballast power cord.
I was going to tell you how to make the same thing only it would use a spec grade heavy duty 20A receptacle.
I was going to tell you how to make the same thing only it would use a spec grade heavy duty 20A receptacle.
A relay would be your cheapest heavy-duty option, http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=129 These things cost 11$ online. Very easy to install. You could get it up and running for 25$ tops.
madpenguin
Member
yea, that's a contactor. Pretty much the same thing.
Wow, I'm really surprised at the timers bursting into flames! I've had cheap timers where the outlet on the timer began melting, but never had one burst into flame 
I've been using a Brinks timer from Wal-Mart for the past 2 years, and haven't had any trouble out of it. Now I'm seriously thinking about running relays.
However, I would like to say that there is no issue running a 1kw off of a standard 110 circuit. Running multiple 1kw loads off of one 15 amp circuit (like a 1kw light + a hair dryer, vacuum, or space heater) is something no one here would ever recommend though. I normally run the light on its own circuit, and the environmental controls off of another.
I've been using a Brinks timer from Wal-Mart for the past 2 years, and haven't had any trouble out of it. Now I'm seriously thinking about running relays.
However, I would like to say that there is no issue running a 1kw off of a standard 110 circuit. Running multiple 1kw loads off of one 15 amp circuit (like a 1kw light + a hair dryer, vacuum, or space heater) is something no one here would ever recommend though. I normally run the light on its own circuit, and the environmental controls off of another.
The thought of a timer melting is what prompted me to build a power/timer board with relays etc.
It's not as expensive and as hard to do as it looks. All home depot purchases except the aube timers and they relays. Madpenquins tutorials are enough to do the whole job.
Cheers
Smiley
It's not as expensive and as hard to do as it looks. All home depot purchases except the aube timers and they relays. Madpenquins tutorials are enough to do the whole job.
Cheers
Smiley
Wow I use a green-air timer for my 4K room, but I am running 2k in another room and 1k in my mother room and those rooms use the heavy duty timer from a retail store rated for 15amps. I have used these cheap little timers for 3 years and never had a problem, but now I am scared to!
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milehighmedical
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