This Is How You Kill Powder Mildew Forever!!!!!

accessndx said:

You'll notice that's what my last post was about. No updated info. yet however. I read the bottle and there's clearly an indication about 14-28 day intervals. Krunch already indicated that he believes it's active for longer periods if I'm not mistaken. If that's not accurate, at the very least I know he stated that you should not use this during flowering at all.
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I have not used Eagle. but I have used just about all other Ag products (over 15 that I can recall) that we use for mildew on this and other crops.

From Experience I would say this. These new mildewcides are systemic and they all have an efficacy period on their labels for 14 to 28 days. This is basically a "cover your ass" disclaimer protecting the manufacturer.

My opinion and experience with these products is basically this. They are all effective under normal to light mildew pressure for 28 to 35 days. If your room is clean and you spray your plants in the veg room a day before you move them to a clean flower room with light mildew pressure, you will probably not need to re-treat during the grow of an 8 week flower strain. I have treated 5 weeks into flower with no ill effects. Just make sure you have really good air movement and ventilation so the flowers dry quickly.

Heavy mildew pressure I would stick with an application every 18 to 21 days and rotate products on each spray. But then, you may want to figure out why the mildew keeps coming back and cure that also.

You may have wanted to hear this from krunch, but here it is anyway.

hey.. im about to order this product. just had a few questionsss....

i see that you can add dutch master penetrator. how much do you use when you add it to the eagle...

also can i just dunk instead of spray???

penetrator is a wetting agent and should always be used at full strength to be effective; especially when spraying with the lights on... u could always use a few drops of organic dish soap with the eagle as its already systemic and save the money on the penetrator

I rechecked my math....

This is why you're not supposed to do important shit when you're really stoned....LMAO...
I used 1 tbsp. of Gold Penetrator I believe.......instead I think I should have been using more like 16 tbsp.

Someone check my math please:

For every 1 litre of spray, use 60 ml (4 tbsp. of Gold Penetrator).

So I figure 1 liter is .26 gallons. That's roughly 4 liters per gallon. You'd need 240 ml, or 16 tbsp.

I'm a math moron when I'm kazaamed.

Well, the moral here is don't do any sort of mathematics when you're stoned, and especially on budder with chasers of bho.

I'll make another application shortly (2 weeks) and see how it goes. I'm sure that what was done will have some impact. It already visibly has. If the penetrator assists in some greater capacity, I'll see that with the next round of spray.

Grape: I was hoping anyone would chime in. So I appreciate your input. I was also hoping Krunch would put his 2 cents in on the issue of the Eagle 20 specifically since he has more experience with that particular product. I'm all ears for anyone to sound off.

sry guys, was on a little vacation to Oregon..........

grapeman is dead on.....

i like to spray or dunk when they are small, 6-10". then right before flowering, i spray and move to the flowering rooms. i have never had it reappear after spraying, unless i missed a few spots.

i would use the liquid dish soap instead of penatrator though....


glad i could help with pm problems........

grapeman said:

I have treated 5 weeks into flower with no ill effects.

Heavy mildew pressure I would stick with an application every 18 to 21 days and rotate products on each spray.

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2 quick questions grapester: 1) You really treated flowering plants with these Mildewicides 5 weeks into flower? That seems a bit over the top....and considering these chems are extant in the plant for the duration of time you specified......just wanted to get the details again.

2) What other readily available (no Ag license required and you can get it in the US) products would you "rotate" to? I absolutely would like to get Meltatox....but it appears that even with all the string pulling I've attempted....it's still not happening.
I'm not familiar with many of the other options, so if you wouldn't mind I'd love to get a list here.

Another question, please......should you make a fresh batch on every spraying, or can you use your original mix until it's gone?

Vash said:

Another question, please......should you make a fresh batch on every spraying, or can you use your original mix until it's gone?

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not sure what the shelf life is when its already mixed. i would make a new batch every time, its very cost effective....

another thing that kills PM is just letting your shit dry out....i was about to harvest and some of my bubblegums had PM on their fan leaves...i stopped watering for almost 5 days and the spread stopped.....cut off all the fan leaves and rewaterd for a few days then chopped...they look top shelf!

can you buy this stuff at hydroponic stores or is it a online order kinda thing???

sneakinman13 said:

can you buy this stuff at hydroponic stores or is it a online order kinda thing???

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some store in my area sell it, but i dont think they can, legally. probably going to need to buy it online, if your not in the bay.....

Just wanted to thank you again Krunch for recommending the Eagle 20EW. Just got it in the mail today!

I think its good to be very careful with systemics. Probably should not be used continuously, that is lazy. If you keep getting PM then you need to change something. I have had luck 3 times with just Silicon in res and SM90 (or neem oil) weekly till PM moves out of system.

Once your system gets REALY infested tho its hard to control it out, tho maybe thats what some of you are trying with these mildewicides.

My goal in using these is to take a vegging plant, hit it hard w Myclobutanil or any mildewicide, even for ornamental use, then grow it for a few weeks with no PM. THEN take cuts of that and move to a different veg area and then grow thos eout, using oil and silicon.

So you use the fungicides to eradicate PM from a mom plant. Then reintroduce it into your system from a clean place.

It is sorta good to look at veg area as separate from flower. One way of looking at it would be if two human parents have herpes or similar, they might give it to their children, no matter what. So clones neeed to be taken from uninfected plants OR from a mom trreated w mildewicides and kept in a quarantined place not getting reinfected. That is critical.

I bought some mildewicides from Home Depot, will try them on some new cuts I got that are infected. If I can grow them for a month or two vigorously without PM, then I will move new babies into a room, use oil/silicon and feel good about safety.

A challenge with these compounds is in hydro it is very difficult to know how much you are applying to the plants, they are somewhat persistent so you may add some to plant or resevoir and the plant takes up 10x or 100x more than is desired. How would ya know? I suppose foliar application could be easir to measure but not foolproof. They are systemics. In real agriculture, the fungicides have very specific instructions for use and with what crops.

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and from
http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/cps-spc/pubs/pest/_decisions/e93-01/index-eng.php#toxexposure


Triazolyl alanine (TA) is formed in plants grown in soil previously treated with triazole fungicides. Although soil is not normally treated directly with triazole fungicides, soil residues normally result from crop treatments. TA is also purported to occur naturally in plants not exposed to triazole fungicides. For a detailed discussion of plant metabolic processes of myclobutanil and TA, refer to pp 21-22.

There are a number of triazole fungicides under development in Canada, including triadimefon, triadimenol, tebuconazole, and bitertanol fungicides from Miles Corp. (Bayer), propiconazole from Ciba-Geigy, flutriafol, paclobutrazole, and hexaconazole from Chipman (ICI), flusilazole from DuPont, myclobutanil from Rohm and Haas and azaconazole from Janssen.

Triadimefon fungicide is registered for use in the U.S.A. on food crops and a number of tolerances, ranging from 1.0 to 4.0 ppm, have been established on crops such as wheat, barley, apples, apricots, grapes, nectarines, peaches, pears, pineapples and plums as well as a number of other food crops. Triadimenol has just recently been registered in the U.S.A. for wheat and barley seed treatment. Bitertanol has an interim tolerance in the U.S.A. on apples and grapes of 0.05 ppm. Propiconazole has been registered in the U.S.A. on grains at 0.05 ppm and on other edible commodities at up to 0.2 ppm. Two of these fungicides (triadimefon and propiconazole) have been registered for use in Canada, triadimefon on a temporary basis and propiconazole on a full registration basis.

Nova 40W works really good and kills PM/Rust/Bud-rot. You can spray your room with it, the medium, pots and plants. Can be used in the flower period and can be mixed with other miticides/pesticides.

http://www.dowagro.com/ca/prod/nova.htm

How about a link to where you bought it?

nova and rally contain the same active ingredient (Myclobutanil) as eagle 20ew. eagle contains 20% Myclobutanil while nova contains 40%. at an app of 2ml/gal, eagle seems very cost effective.

i just dunked all my moms in 2ml/gal of eagle and will let you guys know how it works out for me in a few months. i hope my pm blue days are over.

mikecar312 said:

nova and rally contain the same active ingredient (Myclobutanil) as eagle 20ew. eagle contains 20% Myclobutanil while nova contains 40%. at an app of 2ml/gal, eagle seems very cost effective.

i just dunked all my moms in 2ml/gal of eagle and will let you guys know how it works out for me in a few months. i hope my pm blue days are over.

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Actually the application rate for Nova is 1ml per liter. This comes from someone who owns/runs green houses.

grapeman said:

I use Elite, Rally, Serenade, and others in rotation. All of these are effective and are all currently used by ag growers against mildew. I personally have never used Eagle, but I'll add it to my shelf on your recommendation. I also have on order from Mexico a product called MELTATOX® (safe but illegal here because the manufacturer has not yet complied with all the shit with the EPA) that is used around the world in greenhouses.

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never thought I would have a use for a day laborer from south the border.

Anyways I treat my clones during transplant and I'm set.
picked up unrooted clones from progressive options and during the rooting phase they developed PM. Spray them once and problem solved.
Eagle 20 for the Win!!!

SKUNK420 said:

never thought I would have a use for a day laborer from south the border.

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LOL. If I were you I would PAY him in FULL first, then wait for your product.

grapeman said:

I also have on order from Mexico a product called MELTATOX® (safe but illegal here because the manufacturer has not yet complied with all the shit with the EPA) that is used around the world in greenhouses.

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The guy I get my bug/fungus killers from is always very reluctant to sell me Meltatox because he says its quite toxic to humans this is coming from someone who owns greenhouses.