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Glacier Stainless Steel extraction tube - 1oz / 28g - PLEASE HELP w/ item list

X

xswabx

New member
Hello everyone, I'm so glad i found these forums, there's so much useful information here, I've spent the last 4 hours reading up on extraction tubes and i think im going to go with the stainless steel, but i need help.

Alot of people suggested glacier tanks for the spool.

Can someone please give me a item list of the pieces i need to create my own glacier tank extraction tube.

My Use:
I will be doing 1oz runs at a time.

after doing research i read 1" or less inner diameter is optimal for extractions. if i go with a 3/4" inner diameter, what length would it need to be to do 1oz runs?
 
X

xswabx

New member
wow i cant believe i cant edit my posts here, anyways after realizing 3/4" inner diameter is extremely small to work, i want to go with a 1" inner diameter. So please base my parts list off a 1" inner diameter, and i want to do 1oz nug runs of top shelf.
 
X

xswabx

New member
Chonkski said:
http://skunkpharmresearch.com/passive-butane-extractor-and-reclaimer/
Click to expand...
This is a $700+ system, i dont need that right now, i just want an open system, basically like a glass extraction tube but stainless steel instead.

Chonkski said:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?threadid=292368
Click to expand...

This is what i need help with, in that thread its just a bunch of people listing a bunch of different parts for whatever setup they need themselves, no one ever seems to do 1oz runs. please help with details for my specific circumstances.

I got alot of info for the kind of setup i want from this thread HERE which then even references another DIY glacier setup.

I just cant for the life of me find the exact product list, i want to make sure when i order all the parts i get everything and am not missing something.

in one of those threads they posted this below, i basically need that, it was posted awhile ago so if glaciertanks got anything upgraded or more efficient please advise. Also, I don't know what size spool i need to do 1oz nug runs of top shelf in a 1" inner diameter spool. what length?

1) 1.5" x 18" SS Sanitary Spool

2) TriClamp PTFE Gasket 1 1/2" White FDA Compliant

3) TriClamp 1"-1 1/2" Single Hinge Heavy Duty Stainless Steel SS304

4) NPT 1/4" Female to 1 1/2" TriClamp Stainless Steel SS304

5) Teflon Butane Nozzle Adaptor with 1/4x1/4 Lead Free Brass Nipple

Please help. im sure this thread will help countless people out, "i got your back anonymous viewers" :smoker:
 
G

GratefulOne

Member
Open blasting safely takes more expensive equipment than setting a proper closed loop facility.

Open blasting outside would require at least this check list:
1: Be outside
2: Be on land that does not catch fire
3: Don't be in a drought
4: OWN the land your on or have owner there and approving
5: Piece of land should be large enough to give you a hundred yards to property lines and 200 yards to structures on other property
6: Don't be in a city or town or other inappropriate area
7: Be able to deal with a fire and explosion without setting fire or harming neighbor property. Be able to 100% deal with this and don't need a fire dept to help.
8: Have humidity in the air as a normal thing and when blasting. Dry areas are crazy to even think about. Static issues.
9: Have your set up grounded properly
10: Several more I am not mentioning here

There really is no way to safely open blast. The safest way would be in an industrial facility set up with proper equipment but that cost more than a proper cls facility.

Without doing it right you really are putting other people at risk. I know some people refuse to believe it since they want something else to be true. Engineering facts don't lie and nether do the results when these things are studied. Please re-think the open blasting. The facts are in- almost no one can provide a safe place to open blast.

If for no other reason than smoker's freedom issues- we are getting unjust laws passed forcing licenses to run cls's because of the open blasters blowing up all over the place.

If you start thinking of a cls they are great but also need to be placed in a proper facility. You can not run them in your house or most garages. You need proper blowers, air flow, fire suppression, alarms and other items. It is not a deal breaker to set up a proper facility. $3,000 to $5,000 can do it in many cases.

If you really study the fire issue you will see that going for a quick money grab will often get you or people you care about harmed.
 
X

xswabx

New member
My god GratefulOne im not trying to open a dispensary over here haha, no average person considers spending that much money, you no how many people open blast.. i bet 75%+ of bho is open blasted. you hear about the stupid idiots that blast in there house, near electrical stuff. I understand your looking out for peoples safety, but this is what im going to do, my friend has already successfully done it about 2 times a week for the past year, and i just want to get in on it. he uses a glass tube, but i want something more reliable.

and like I said ill be doing 1 oz runs, so thats 1 can of butane, that's not alot.. plus i am in a very humid place "sea level" will be doing this outdoors in a big screened in area in the pool area, and there will be 2 fans, 1 on product, 1 on floor. I see no chance of any pooling of butane.

and i research the hell out of everything i do, thats why im on here asking advice, i dont just stupidly put shit together :smoke:
 
G

GratefulOne

Member
Open blasting is signing up for a Darwin award.

If you are researching the hell out of everything then please get educated on what you are dealing with.

Facts are you came here and asked a question that a drop of thinking and research would have solved for you. If that is the level of researching the hell out of things then no way you are being safe.

Nothing personal but no matter how much you don't want something to be true the facts have proven many times that open blasting can hardly be done with any level of safety.

Are you at least able to deal with a fire yourself? What is your plan if things go wrong? If things can go wrong they will 100% sure at some point. Are you able to deal with that?
 
Y

youareaniceguy

Member
Well that's a pretty extreme view. There are many people who have open blasted for years, many times over and not blown up. Seems as though they may be able to do it safely somehow? Or maybe theyre all just getting lucky again and again?

Is a CLS safer than an open tube? Sure. But if safety is really your issue then a CLS is much more dangerous than going solventless. Orders of magnitude more dangerous. You are putting yourself and everyone around you at risk compared to running solventless. You do have a chance of blowing up running a CLS, you don't have any chance at all going solventless.

I'm not saying don't run a CLS, but keep things in perspective.
 
G

GratefulOne

Member
I have years of experience in industry dealing with flammables and explosive work areas. You can use this stuff safely without it being very difficult. There are no excessive risks if you set up a proper area with needed equipment.

100% for sure things will go wrong if they can. Getting lucky for years does not make something safe. Study the science and facts behind things.

Most open blasters don't want these facts to be true so they believe what they need to. You are welcome to your own opinions but you can't have your own set of facts. The danger of open blasting is well established in engineering.
 
Y

youareaniceguy

Member
I also have years of experience in this area. You can do both safely, open and closed. It's not luck for the majority that haven't blown themselves up, it's knowing and following proper procedures including knowing your surroundings.

It's not my own fact that solvent based extraction is inherently more dangerous than solventless. The presence of flammable solvents will always be more dangerous than the absence of them.

Excessive risk in this instance is somewhat subjective. To me it's definitely excessive risk because I can make an equivalent or even better medicine using solventless methods that pose no risk of explosion period.

This isn't even taking into account the health and safety of the patient. If we get into that CLS loses big time every time.
 
X

xswabx

New member
Towelie Rules said:
check out sanitarysteel.com they have better prices than glacier, quicker shipping, and I feel better quality
Click to expand...

All those tubes are huge, i want a smaller one, dont worry guys, i think i figured most of it out myself, im just trying to figure out what kind of intake i should get, i was going go with

Teflon Butane Nozzle Adaptor with 1/4x1/4 Lead Free Brass Nipple

but they dont accept paypal or visa card, only bank transfer.. lol. So does anyone know of any alternative? I really wanted to use that one because its Lead Free Brass Nipple.
 
Gray Wolf

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
xswabx said:
Hello everyone, I'm so glad i found these forums, there's so much useful information here, I've spent the last 4 hours reading up on extraction tubes and i think im going to go with the stainless steel, but i need help.

Alot of people suggested glacier tanks for the spool.

Can someone please give me a item list of the pieces i need to create my own glacier tank extraction tube.

My Use:
I will be doing 1oz runs at a time.

after doing research i read 1" or less inner diameter is optimal for extractions. if i go with a 3/4" inner diameter, what length would it need to be to do 1oz runs?
Click to expand...

Please first read:https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=212613

and

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=266761

and

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=275567

and

http://skunkpharmresearch.com/vacuum-distilling-butane/

and

http://skunkpharmresearch.com/passive-butane-extractor-and-reclaimer/

For your application, a Lil Terp design would be be about the right size with a 1 1/2" X 6" column.

It would be safer, cheaper to operate, more ecologically friendly, and would afford you a way to first remove MO before extracting.

Suggest you look at Sanitarysteel.com, rather than Glacier tank for parts, as they are notably cheaper.

Having said all that, more directly to your question:

Depends on how you prepared your material. We get about 3.5 to 4.1 gms/cubic in, depending on whether it is nugs or screened to 10 mesh.

3/4 ID would be efficient, but a pain in the ass to load and unload. 1" would be more user friendly.

A .75 diameter tube would have .44 in/sq face area and a 1" diameter tube would have .785 face area.

28.5/3.5= 8 cubic inches per ounce.

8/.44= 18"
8/.785=10"

28.3/4.1= 6.9 cubic inches per ounce

6.9/.44=15.7"
6.9/.785=8.8"

For open blasting, you can close one end of a sanitary spool with and NPT endcap, which you can reduce to 1/8" with a drilled plug, for an injection port.
 
Gray Wolf

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
xswabx said:
All those tubes are huge, i want a smaller one, dont worry guys, i think i figured most of it out myself, im just trying to figure out what kind of intake i should get, i was going go with

Teflon Butane Nozzle Adaptor with 1/4x1/4 Lead Free Brass Nipple

but they dont accept paypal or visa card, only bank transfer.. lol. So does anyone know of any alternative? I really wanted to use that one because its Lead Free Brass Nipple.
Click to expand...

An expensive solution and begging the question of why use brass at all.

Why not just drill a 1/8" hole in a 304SS stainless plug, use a nozzle adapter that comes with the butane to seal.

Orrrrr, get a lead free brass plug and drill a hole.
 
G

GratefulOne

Member
youareaniceguy said:
I also have years of experience in this area. You can do both safely, open and closed.
Click to expand...

Can you please give a checklist to safely open blast? Please reference NFPA, UL, or local fire codes that back up how to do it safely.

Open blasting can be done safely. Most people who know how to do it safely would never attempt it though. Please give details to show how I am wrong. I love to learn new things. My reading and years of experience don't see standards or engineering practices that says simple open blasting is anything more than a huge fire risk.
 
Y

youareaniceguy

Member
You said it could be done safely yourself so we are in agreement. I don't think I can provide you with the references you requested, however, you agreed it could be done safely so what's the need?

As for people knowing how to not doing it, I know some of the people producing solvent free use open tubes in their initial extraction so they don't have to worry about the solvents compatibility with seals, hoses, etc.


I also agree that solvent based extraction is a huge fire risk and so I just opt to forego the unnecessary risk and produce oil via other safer methods.
 
G

GratefulOne

Member
I said open blasting could be done safely but would require a more expensive facility than a proper cls facility. My point is guys who open blast and don't understand this should not be doing it.

This stuff is in the day light now and real standards are required. "Experts" will be able to approach the issue from the engineering side in detail.
 
X

xswabx

New member
Here's my precautions/safety list:

Conditions:
*I will be outside, in a large backed in screen porch with a pool right next to us. I live in an area at sea level, with probably the highest humidly you can get in the USA right now, today it was 83% humidity outside.

*Will have fire exing, protective gloves & glasses.

*only electrical that will be outside in the porch with us will be a fan, the fan will be held by 1 friend while one blasts, the fan will be point at ground and blaster, dispersing any butane buildup "if any", i just thought instead of one friend just staring at the other shoot he should be moving the fan around..

*blast in pyrex that is floating in warm water.

*key to note!! im only blasting with 1 can.. not a bunch.

*light a cigarette and say :wave:

Minus the last sentence lol, I feel this will be adequate, if anyone has anything to add go ahead, everyone except GratefulOne.. your just going to tell me to spend a shit load of money.
 
X

xswabx

New member
Gray Wolf said:
For your application, a Lil Terp design would be be about the right size with a 1 1/2" X 6" column.

It would be safer, cheaper to operate, more ecologically friendly, and would afford you a way to first remove MO before extracting.

Suggest you look at Sanitarysteel.com, rather than Glacier tank for parts, as they are notably cheaper.

Having said all that, more directly to your question:

Depends on how you prepared your material. We get about 3.5 to 4.1 gms/cubic in, depending on whether it is nugs or screened to 10 mesh.

3/4 ID would be efficient, but a pain in the ass to load and unload. 1" would be more user friendly.

A .75 diameter tube would have .44 in/sq face area and a 1" diameter tube would have .785 face area.

28.5/3.5= 8 cubic inches per ounce.

8/.44= 18"
8/.785=10"

28.3/4.1= 6.9 cubic inches per ounce

6.9/.44=15.7"
6.9/.785=8.8"

For open blasting, you can close one end of a sanitary spool with and NPT endcap, which you can reduce to 1/8" with a drilled plug, for an injection port.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, i read most those threads already, but ill look again, i was hoping to hear from you in this thread :)

i dont know where you are seeing Sanitarysteel.com as cheaper, im not seeing the 1" size ID spool im looking for, and all the others are pretty expensive.

What do you recommend i use for the exhaust portion of the tube? Can i clamp this to the end of the tube?
http://www.glaciertanks.com/TriClamp_End_Cap_SS-TriClamp_End_Cap_1-1_1_2_w_1_Cut_out_SS304.html

and then use two coffee filters and a mesh screen?

if so i think id prefer to do it that way, thanks for all the tips man!
 
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