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Old 05-17-2018, 04:39 PM #2101
rives
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It won't hurt a thing, but isn't really necessary. #12 THHN is actually rated for 30a, but is de-rated by code to 20a. The limiting factor on current-carrying capacity is when the insulation starts to degrade because of the operating temperature, and THHN is rated for 194 degrees. The only issue might be that the wire is a little large for the termination points on the receptacles, but should still be pretty easy to use.

Regarding the receptacles, be sure to use the commercial or specification-grade ones that have screw-plate connections and not the junk ones that you stab the wire into the holes.
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Old 05-17-2018, 07:05 PM #2102
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Rives,
I just want to say that you are a huge asset to this site. I wonder how much property, and how many lives you've saved. Thanks. -granger
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Old 05-17-2018, 10:28 PM #2103
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Agreed, thanks Rives.

I did notice there was a commercial and industrial graded outlets. Will try to get the best ones with the screws. Also think the 12 awg sounds better, need all the connections really secure or I won't sleep at night, trying to get an oversized wire to fit snugly doesn't sound ideal.

Thanks,

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Old 05-18-2018, 05:03 AM #2104
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Quote:
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Rives,
I just want to say that you are a huge asset to this site. I wonder how much property, and how many lives you've saved. Thanks. -granger
Thank you. I enjoy helping out!

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Agreed, thanks Rives.

I did notice there was a commercial and industrial graded outlets. Will try to get the best ones with the screws. Also think the 12 awg sounds better, need all the connections really secure or I won't sleep at night, trying to get an oversized wire to fit snugly doesn't sound ideal.

Thanks,

Mr^^
Holler back if you have any more questions.
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Old 05-18-2018, 05:25 AM #2105
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Rives,
I just want to say that you are a huge asset to this site. I wonder how much property, and how many lives you've saved. Thanks. -granger
I AGREE WITH THIS POST
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Old 07-20-2018, 02:31 AM #2106
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Dumb question I am sure. I have 30 amp line for my light switches/timers. I never use all the power. Several thousand watts off. I need to upgrade my box for more 120v plugins in one of my spots because when the electrician installed the 30 amp line it took it away from many receptacles. I did not realize this until I went to set things up last week.

I can get around that by buying this box:

https://www.powerboxinc.com/dpc15000.html

So the dumb question: It can handle 50 amp load but I will never use close to that in any of my spots. Does it have to be plugged into a 50 amp line to function properly? Could I use my existing 30 amp and just not ever go above the 30 amps? The receptacle is all that matters I believe?

I am terrible with electricity sorry if this is as a dumb of a question as I feel it may be.
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Old 07-20-2018, 02:35 AM #2107
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The 50 amp box requires 2 hots and a neutral.Your 30 amp wire has only one hot and a neutral,so iam guessing no.
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Old 07-20-2018, 02:47 AM #2108
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Hmm well this presents a problem I am going to have to solve my self. I can hardwire to a 50 amp that is on the box down there as well but I would have to run extension cords from every piece of equipment to it...The box if I remember right has 2 20 lines, 30, and a 50. The 30 was relocated to the grow chamber. I am in a basement and we built a wall in the center of it my grow is on one side storage and electrical box on the other....

Anyone know any companies that sell premade boxes like the power boxes that have at least 4 120v plug ins as well as 240's. Some of my equipment and lights are 120 some of it is 240. These boxes solved that problem but they dont have a 30 that is sufficient.

I could always just cut a hole for all the extension cords running to a hardwired box on the other side of wall (about 20 foot run), but would really like to take advantage of the line I paid for to be run inside the grow room....

Any ideas? Have to solve this issue in next few weeks really don't want an electrician back over here as I have set some things up...


EDIT:

Confused trying to put together equipment. I have a 60 amp line down in basement I may be able to reroute my self.

1. Will it not work/be unsafe with this 50 amp controller below? If not could I just remove the 60 amp breaker and put a 50 in its place and rerun the wiring or hardwire directly to it and run extension cords from equipment to it?

Looking at this one:

https://www.hydrofarm.com/p/APT0082

FUEL ST8 Light Controller, 8 Outlet, 240V, with Single Trigger

The FUEL ST8 represents the latest in professional lighting control. It is among the best devices for controlling up to 8 lights. This unit features 240V industrial-grade NEMA 6-15 UL-listed power outlets. All outlets are controlled by a 120V trigger cable. The 8 light controller has 2 banks of 4 lights. Each bank has a 30-second time delay and is protected by an industrial-grade circuit breaker.

The FUEL ST8 requires a 50A main power supply and has a maximum ballast load of 40A. Each power outlet receptacle is rated 240V, 5A maximum. Keep your grow lights in complete control with Autopilot's professional line of FUEL light controllers.
8 Outlet/240V/60Hz
50A main power supply
Maximum ballast load 40A
Each receptacle rated 240VAC 5A MAX
NEMA 6-15 UL-listed power outlets
ETL-listed
Commercial grade
2-year warranty

This power box has a 50 and a 60 amp version I could use just as well.

https://www.powerboxinc.com/dpc15000.html

Last edited by Gardens Keeper; 07-20-2018 at 04:27 AM..
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Old 07-20-2018, 07:17 AM #2109
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You would be far better off building up something yourself. Virtually all of the commercially-available controllers like these rely on a portion of the code that CANNOT be complied with in a grow op. The only protection is the main breaker, at 40 or 50 amps, and it is feeding receptacles that are rated at 15a, which they then tell you not to use at over 5a. That's all fine when things are running well, but if something shorts out, it will pull everything that the breaker can supply. The code exception is for warehouse lighting with the lights suspended not more than 18" immediately below the receptacle, and all of the lighting gear has to be listed (tested and approved) for that purpose. ALL of the stipulations have to be met in order for it to be legal. It's dangerous in your application and will void your insurance.

The easiest way to do this is to use a range cord feeding a water heater timer, and then feed a small sub-panel which will in turn feed your receptacles. The timer will handle 30a, and the sub-panel will provide the protection that the 15a receptacles and cordsets REQUIRE. You can use a 240v timer, giving you a total of 7,200 watts, and break the circuits into whatever combination of 120v or 240v that you need with the sub. Keep the load balanced between the two legs of 120v that make up the 240v feed. Remember to stay at 80% or less of the breaker rating for loads that are on for over 3 hours.
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Old 07-20-2018, 07:58 AM #2110
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Building one is just beyond me I need a simple fix for now. I am not in a warehouse or anything and I have 7 lights 3 gavita 600 watts which run on 240 and 4 led's that are 560 watts a piece that run on 120. I have a Quest dehumidifier 70 pint 120v and a c02 system + fans.

I have to have a pre built box of some kind and I am going to have to run the wire my self. The panel may be a sub panel I am not sure as there are 3 in the home. One in the basement which ran a dedicated welder the 60 amp and then 30 amp and 2 20's.

I need to use those lines and use a premade box and I have 3 weeks to get it done. Every premade box I look at seems to run on 50 amp-60 amp+. All are 500$+ and then probably a timer depending on which brand I go with.

I could also run a 50-60 amp line directly from the main panel which we just had completely replaced and upgraded as it sits on the other side of the wall of the basement. The guy had already run a 30 amp line from it to run the split system I had installed so I am assuming I wouldnt even have to drill through the wall and could run the line through it and just drill in beams above like he did to get it to where he put it.

I am going to try to trace which wires are which down there tomorrow. I have no idea where the 60 amp goes in the room.

If I could just add 4 120v outlets then I could use my old powerbox to run the gavita 240's the rest of the shit can run on those but I have no clue how to do that shit.
Have to go to sleep but will be trying to figure out what I should do exactly for next few days.

Really appreciate the input from everyone.
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