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Old 04-29-2018, 04:42 PM #2101
Jhhnn
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If you're running new wire the smart answer is to run 10/3 w/ ground from a ganged 30A 240v breaker in the main panel to a new subpanel in the garage. You can then break that down into smaller 120v or 240v circuits to run the equipment. It's a common way to wire a garage that's also used as a shop.
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Old 04-29-2018, 04:56 PM #2102
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There, now you have your answer given in two different threads. And I was correct, again.
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Old 04-29-2018, 09:46 PM #2103
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Originally Posted by Jhhnn View Post
The breaker should be sized to the wire & the 80% rule applies to that combination.

For example, a 20A breaker may be used with #12 wire & the combined continuous load for all the receptacles on that circuit should not exceed 16A. A 15A breaker may be used with #14 wire & a continuous load of 12A. Never use a breaker bigger than that recommended for the wire size in question.
Yeah, that too! LOL. I kind of got lost in the weeds there on the subtleties and wandered away from the main question. It was early...
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Old 05-16-2018, 07:58 PM #2104
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Edited after a little more research.

Trying to put in a dedicated 220v circuit to run 6 Gavita 1ks, will be using the Gavita controller to turn the lamps on and off, so basically just need a safe clean wired circuit that I can plug 6 Gavitas into.

So far, I think I will use 3x, 20 amp duplex 220v outlets. With a 60 amp breaker for the circuit. Just trying to figure out what is the safest cleanest way to wire it all together. Open to suggestions, at the moment I am thinking either a junction box where I can pigtail the 3 outlets off the main wire (seems like a lot of pig tailing of thick wire), or find some sort of lug center where I can use 3x 20 amp breakers. The second sounds safer, just have to find one the right one.

After thinking it over a bit more, the Lug center seems a lot cleaner/safer. I think the pig tailing would be sloppy. Just need to find the right lug center. Also if it is safe to install a lug center in the ceiling. The outlets will be in the ceiling, the lug center would not "have" to be in the ceiling, but it might make things a bit simpler for me. Also need to decide between using an indoor lug center hard wired, or using an outdoor lug center with a plug, and metal conduit connecting the outlets (like the older timer boards minus the timer and relays).

Any input is appreciated.

Mr^^

Last edited by MedResearcher; 05-16-2018 at 09:01 PM..
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Old 05-16-2018, 10:49 PM #2105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MedResearcher View Post
Edited after a little more research.

Trying to put in a dedicated 220v circuit to run 6 Gavita 1ks, will be using the Gavita controller to turn the lamps on and off, so basically just need a safe clean wired circuit that I can plug 6 Gavitas into.

So far, I think I will use 3x, 20 amp duplex 220v outlets. With a 60 amp breaker for the circuit. Just trying to figure out what is the safest cleanest way to wire it all together. Open to suggestions, at the moment I am thinking either a junction box where I can pigtail the 3 outlets off the main wire (seems like a lot of pig tailing of thick wire), or find some sort of lug center where I can use 3x 20 amp breakers. The second sounds safer, just have to find one the right one.

After thinking it over a bit more, the Lug center seems a lot cleaner/safer. I think the pig tailing would be sloppy. Just need to find the right lug center. Also if it is safe to install a lug center in the ceiling. The outlets will be in the ceiling, the lug center would not "have" to be in the ceiling, but it might make things a bit simpler for me. Also need to decide between using an indoor lug center hard wired, or using an outdoor lug center with a plug, and metal conduit connecting the outlets (like the older timer boards minus the timer and relays).

Any input is appreciated.

Mr^^
The 60a breaker is absolutely not the way to go. The breaker HAS to match the lowest-rated component in the system in order to provide protection. If you are using 20a receptacles, then you need to use 20a components throughout and 20a breakers.

Regarding the ceiling mount, I don't recall ever seeing a code exclusion for horizontal mounting, but wouldn't be surprised if one exists. As I recall, they ARE supposed to be mounted at "working height". Just as an aside, I prefer a main breaker in any sub. You can buy a main lug only panel and get a main breaker kit for them. It is just far more convenient to be able to kill all the power rather than having to trudge back to the main panel.

The choice between the indoor and outdoor styles would be dictated by the specific installation and personal preference. Conduit affords you the ability to easily change the circuitry later if you need to.
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Old 05-17-2018, 01:19 AM #2106
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Appreciate the response Rives, helps a lot to get some good information and bounce around ideas.

The main breaker kit would be a nice addition, thanks. Guess if I got a lug center with the space for 8 breakers, I could use 2 slots on a main breaker, 3x 2 slot 20 amp breakers, for each duplex.

Really the outlets in the ceiling was just cosmetic, I could surely just tie the cords up neatly along the ceiling and down a wall to the outlets.

I am leaning towards the outdoor style. Nice to be able to just unplug it and remove it from the wall, leaving behind only a single outlet. Hard to say how long I will use the room, and if I tear it down I don't really need all the extra outlets and wiring in the wall.

So this is what I am thinking now. Please let me know if something sounds poorly designed.

Garage has a sub-panel already. I will add a single 50 amp dual pole breaker into the subpanel, run 6-3 mmb to a single 50 amp outlet, not a very long run maybe 15'.

Wire a 50 amp range cord into a outdoor lug center. 1x 50 amp main breaker. 3x 20 amp breakers. Using conduit and 10 awg thhn, add 3x duplex 20a outlets/w boxs.

Then I can just plug and play the lug center as needed... hopefully

Thanks,

Mr^^
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Old 05-17-2018, 06:20 AM #2107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MedResearcher View Post
Appreciate the response Rives, helps a lot to get some good information and bounce around ideas.

The main breaker kit would be a nice addition, thanks. Guess if I got a lug center with the space for 8 breakers, I could use 2 slots on a main breaker, 3x 2 slot 20 amp breakers, for each duplex.

Really the outlets in the ceiling was just cosmetic, I could surely just tie the cords up neatly along the ceiling and down a wall to the outlets.

I am leaning towards the outdoor style. Nice to be able to just unplug it and remove it from the wall, leaving behind only a single outlet. Hard to say how long I will use the room, and if I tear it down I don't really need all the extra outlets and wiring in the wall.

So this is what I am thinking now. Please let me know if something sounds poorly designed.

Garage has a sub-panel already. I will add a single 50 amp dual pole breaker into the subpanel, run 6-3 mmb to a single 50 amp outlet, not a very long run maybe 15'.

Wire a 50 amp range cord into a outdoor lug center. 1x 50 amp main breaker. 3x 20 amp breakers. Using conduit and 10 awg thhn, add 3x duplex 20a outlets/w boxs.

Then I can just plug and play the lug center as needed... hopefully

Thanks,

Mr^^
That would work fine. If the 20a receptacle runs are going to be of reasonable length, #12 wire will be fine.
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Old 05-17-2018, 07:10 AM #2108
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Most likely will be very short runs, under 1'. I had an old timer box that used the rigid conduit they were only a few inches long, and held the lug center and the outlet boxs together. I have noticed the same little pieces at Home Depot, so most likely will use those.

Any harm to using 10 awg, over the 12 awg? I figured it was going to be cheap enough anyways, so a little over gauged wire couldn't hurt?

Thanks again,
Mr^^
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Old 05-17-2018, 03:39 PM #2109
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It won't hurt a thing, but isn't really necessary. #12 THHN is actually rated for 30a, but is de-rated by code to 20a. The limiting factor on current-carrying capacity is when the insulation starts to degrade because of the operating temperature, and THHN is rated for 194 degrees. The only issue might be that the wire is a little large for the termination points on the receptacles, but should still be pretty easy to use.

Regarding the receptacles, be sure to use the commercial or specification-grade ones that have screw-plate connections and not the junk ones that you stab the wire into the holes.
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Old 05-17-2018, 06:05 PM #2110
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