Canna A+B Nutrient Users

If you have a moment to spare, I'm wondering at what ratio most folks are using the Canna A+B line of nutrients. Are you going by the Canna Grow chart or what have you been finding works best for you. I realize it maybe strain dependent. Are you using RO or tap, and how many milliliters of A+B are you introducing per gallon. How much Rhizo do you use on top of that A+B. Do you add any extra cal/mag??

Thanks for your time!

hello bro
i'm using canna coco a+b currently;
using ro water,
8ml/3L a+b plus 0.3 ml/3L drip clean, that is EC 1.3 pH 5.8 for me. on the peak of flower i'll go to EC 1.45 pH 6.05-6.1 with pk1314. will push higher if plants react well.

no need for extra ca-mg.

cheers

Follow the canna grow guide. If using RO, start with .4EC cal mag. You might be able to get away with less, but in my experience it’s easier to back off a little bit than try to play catch up fighting deficiencies. You can start with their “light” feeding schedule but I’ve found most strains want more. A lot of guys swear by lower, but I tried it and was battling deficiency until I raised my EC to 1.7ish in late veg. Granted the room is cranked with a ton of light, co2, etc. In my small veg area without co2 I’ve been able to feed much less. It was a learning curve going from the veg area to the flower room, but the lesson is, light intensity and environment play a large role in how much you are able to feed.

RE: calmag/RO/coco

Portion of an emailed reply from canna in response to my inquiry regarding calmag and RO water:

"Thanks for the question, in regards to adding Cal-Mag to RO water there are two paths that can be taken to address this.

First, indeed RO water should be "improved" before adding the nutrients.

Adding cal-mag does indeed work. However, what we are looking for is adding some hardness back to the water to limit/prevent RO water to absorb the calcium and magnesium from the nutrient to harden itself effectively making those elements unavailable for the plants.

The best way to achieve this is adding these elements in Carbonate form, while most Cal-Mag products provide these in the Nitrogen form (Calcium
and Magnesium Nitrates) which provides more Nitrogen than is needed.

Feeding with higher Nitrogen than needed can cause plants to accumulate Nitrogen, in the Nitrite form, which is known be carcinogenic along with promoting vegetative growth, making the flowers having more leafy material than desired.

When using a Cal-Mag, usually 50-100 ppms will work fine.

Some Cal-Mag on the market have Carbonate based Ca & Mg, or low nitrogen to calcium ratios. If these are available in your area, they should be favored instead of regular, cheaper, formulations.

The other fastest, cheapest, more efficient and convenient way is simply to add back "normal" tap water into the RO water. This provides the hardness back to water more inline with water's natural chemistry. Target 50-200 ppm.

This is the best course of action to take......"

I also tend to fall between the "light" and "normal" range of A/B.

I use a&b. I don't use ro water. I use tap water with a dechlorinator, granted my water is fairly low ppm. I start around 7mls per gallon. Max 12.5 mls per gallon for week 2-7 of flower. Week 8 I cut everything in half. 9-10 weeks I flush

Thanks to everyone for their input!

Please, anyone else, feel free to add your regiment.