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Old 08-19-2013, 04:47 AM #21
BigPanda420
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Originally Posted by SkyHighLer View Post
On what authority do you deem a griddle to be safe around exposed butane? Have you taken it completely apart and looked for exposed thermostat switching contacts? Did you look for over heat and/or over current components that might blow like a fuse, maybe with a heat hot enough to ignite butane?
"Common practice" at YouTube does not equal common sense...
If you think it's unsafe then simply don't do it that way. What can I say other than you're nitpicking VERY specific details. If any of the information available has taught anyone anything it's that safety comes first. If you feel you may ignite butane then use the extractor away from the heat source with a pyrex lower dish containing heated water and then use the griddle once purging safety has removed the majority of the butane.

Common sense is maintaining proper ventilation when using a volatile substance period. not to mention adding heat into the equation. I've been making concentrates since before YouTube existed and I've enjoyed seeing different people's techniques if ever a good video was made on there. YouTube is great because it allows people to get themselves visually acquainted with the process, not a bad resource if you ask me. As always I say just experiment and find your own method that you find works and maintains a safe environment.
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:46 AM #22
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Warming up your tane is only going to pull more undesirables, keep everything cold.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:06 PM #23
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Warming up your tane is only going to pull more undesirables, keep everything cold.
What kind of information do you have to back that up? So you're saying that increasing pressure slightly will pull more undesirable material into the oil? What would it be pulling into the oil?

Butane cannot be warmed, only slightly warming the container, this only increases pressure.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:16 PM #24
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It's true, heating your cans increases pressure makes the solvent more aggressive and butane being non polar it will pick up more plant waxes, lipids and fats rather then it being chilled. Dry ice is what most people are using these days to keep the butane liquid during the extraction and to avoid picking up lots of these inactive and irritating waxes. Heating cans does increase yield, but decreases quality.

I've done many experiments to back this up and anyone that is an avid shatter or absolute aficionado/extract artist should know this.
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:37 PM #25
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Originally Posted by BigPanda420 View Post
What kind of information do you have to back that up? So you're saying that increasing pressure slightly will pull more undesirable material into the oil? What would it be pulling into the oil?

Butane cannot be warmed, only slightly warming the container, this only increases pressure.
Wax, chlorophyll, stuff that doesn't get you high. This is info any body who is worth their weight in erl should know. Do a lil reading on here, especially read some of jump177's post he can explain it better than I can.
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:59 AM #26
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Hey hammalamma!
Perhaps you meant this post (click)
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Old 08-20-2013, 06:12 AM #27
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Hey hammalamma!
Perhaps you meant this post (click)
Yessir! That's exactly it, thanks bud.
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Old 12-01-2013, 03:20 AM #28
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So on my quest to make shatter I've found it very simple... I blast into a cold Pyrex and let it evaporate the liquid outside in the cold with my Pyrex sitting on cold concrete. Then after all liquid is gone I purge on hot water out of the tap. I pop all the bubbles and smear them in. I let sit for 72 hours. Then I put my dish back in some warm water so the shatter loosens up and I scrape. Wallah bomb dabs.. Big yells.... Vaced it once and it didn't move.... Opinions?
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Old 12-01-2013, 05:05 AM #29
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200 proof Ethanol is hard to get and won't result in any improvement to the process, or make any real difference one way or the other.

It is not possible to get 100% pure (200 proof) ethyl alcohol through distillation only . To remove the final 4-5% requires running it through a molecular sieve, usually a specific type of activated carbon.

The remaining traces of water get removed by this secondary process.

RB
carbon for water? i have used zeolite for water in ethanol carbon is for the heads/tails that are left? A good ethanol recipe will go along way in end falvors. but it comes down to experience running the still and not smearing the heads hearts and tails through your run//// making oil will lead you down many roads of late night activities
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Old 04-10-2014, 05:24 PM #30
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What is the name of the video you saw in high times or what issue/volume did you see this advertisement for the video?
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