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Old 02-13-2012, 02:17 AM #11
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Very interesting. So, the 200 proof, I think 99.7% ethanol that is available for industry, is adulterated. Therefore its better to go with 190 proof, sugar cane ethanol, which I have already sourced?

Oh, on another note, I discovered a local source for hexane, which is used in the processing of soy bean oil. I'm guessing this is a good product?

To produce soybean oil, the soybeans are cracked, adjusted for moisture content, heated to between 140°F and 190°F, rolled into flakes, and solvent-extracted with hexane. The oil is then refined, blended for different applications, and sometimes hydrogenated. Soybean oils, both liquid and partially hydrogenated, are exported abroad, sold as "vegetable oil," or end up in a wide variety of processed foods.
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:55 AM #12
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put extract in a glass container, one big enough that it is quite a bit bigger than the amount of oil. Put in hot water bath, and whip with a nail or something similar. Whip it till you get tired of whipping it, and then keep doing it for 5 more minutes. Spread material out with a metal tool like a non holed spatula, metal of course, and as thin as you can get. Really press, smoothing out the extract till it is paper thin. Leave sit in a warm room that has negative air pressure. You will be left with grade A earwax that you can take out with your hands if you want, and under that will be grade A++++ amber flake
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:09 AM #13
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:18 AM #14
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Sorry it's a bit old know... but: I do the whole hot bath purge.. spreading it over as thin as possible, turning the oil over itself once in a while and respreading... but never whipping (not till after it's shatter,potentially forming bonds between butane and the actual oil molecules.. plus the air) a trick to all this common knowledge.. cutting thin little lines over the whole surface with the blade of a razor.. different directions... again everyone 15 minutes or so after you resmear the thin coating, secondly... preferably have your oil a liquid above 66 degrees celcius but below 90..for at least an hour.. i like to bring it down to least 52 celcius for another hour or 2...(lower temps will stop subtle breaking down of the actually final yields flavour, less of everything will evap. yet it's good to have at least the wax a liquid for the gas to escape..) keep smearing and cutting.. as long as it's a sticky sticky substance and purged enough to not run to run really easily..periodically, lift your tray past vertical, almost upside, shake and tap, preferably fan it off.. I like to do this before each time I do a re-smear..after this long long purge, leave for at least 24 hours as thin as possible. also. Before extraction heat your herbs to 104 celcius for 15 to 20 minutes.. it breaks down smell and taste, but actually increases potency/yield. (decarboxylation).. it also removes the water.. no moisture means a dry hard shatter/ glass. carefully scrape up.. theres vac purges as well.
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Old 12-18-2012, 01:31 AM #15
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When mentioned above to do it in a room with negative air pressure does it matter how much negative pressure or just some negative pressure?
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Old 12-18-2012, 03:34 AM #16
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starting material will be a big factor on shatter or not, try nugs
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:08 AM #17
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throw it in the freezer, in a glass dish. chips right out in chunks.
easy to manage until it melts. so be quick.
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Old 12-18-2012, 01:23 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faintfuzzies View Post
Ok i know how to make bho ,But how do you make it hard like shatter/amber glass ? . I seen a video for sale in high times that tells you but they want 250.00 bucks. they are nuts and should be ashamed.

I hoping someone here knows how its done.. I cant stand stickyness of bho, i rather have something more stable and easy to handle

Thanks

Faint
Shatter is oil still in the carboxylic acid state, so prime fresh buds are more likely to produce it, than older material or trim.

The easiest and cheapest way to make shatter, is spread the BHO oleoresin in a thin film and walk away from it for a month or so.

You can speed it up by heating the film to 125/140F, but that will also decarboxylate some of the material, thus making it softer.

We like to keep the temperature at <115F and pull a -29.9"Hg vacuum on it, until solvent bubbles stop coming off. It will cool to shatter, even without refrigerating.
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Old 08-18-2013, 08:52 AM #19
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Shatter

Pack your tube without breaking up your nugs, try to get them in and nice and snug in the tube you're using. I use a wooden spoon handle to pack it down as I pack, ensure you pack it fairly tight as if it shifts you could have low yield/problems. Next I use two coffee filters and secure with a ziptie (cut any excess filter off as it will soak up the mixture). Next you can place this tube in the freezer but ensure all bud was completely dry before placing in the tube as having wet bud can cause the bud to freeze and become unable to have thc be extracted off of it. Next we extract into the dish. Note: been experimenting with slightly warming the butane can to increase pressure, actually do think it increases yield slightly. And by warming I mean I run the can VERY briefly under warm (not hot) water.

Buy a griddle from Walmart for $30 and use this as your main heat source. Ideal as it can be used outdoors and can be set to low heat. Use larger Pyrex dish on griddle with water and second floating within that dish.(common practice). Small dish is ideally Once water is hot you're good to start extracting into the smaller dish.

Once the extraction is complete simply allow the purge to continue for as long as you can wait, popping bubbles and LEAVING THE OIL UNDISTURBED. Do not whip or touch the oil as all. Just wait it out I usually purge about 4-6 hours and I'm happy, some people can go 24 but who wants to wait. Next you can do if you have the materials but if not just skip this step. Obtain ethanol alcohol 90% (drinking alcohol) and pour into the purging dish once it's near scrape time and mix. You can now just use the current set up to Evap all the alcohol/oil mix until it becomes just oil purging again. (This step can also involve taking the mixture once the oil and alcohol mixes and placing in a jar in the freezer for 24-48hrs to winterize it. Then simply pour and Evap until you have oil)

This should create some bomb shatter and using this as a base. Just experiment
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:48 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigPanda420 View Post

<snip>
Buy a griddle from Walmart for $30 and use this as your main heat source. Ideal as it can be used outdoors and can be set to low heat. Use larger Pyrex dish on griddle with water and second floating within that dish.(common practice). Small dish is ideally Once water is hot you're good to start extracting into the smaller dish.
<snip>
On what authority do you deem a griddle to be safe around exposed butane? Have you taken it completely apart and looked for exposed thermostat switching contacts? Did you look for over heat and/or over current components that might blow like a fuse, maybe with a heat hot enough to ignite butane?
"Common practice" at YouTube does not equal common sense...
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