Originally Posted by kalopatchkid
None of the things you mentioned will actually cure budrot, nor do you want to be spraying them in late flower when bud rot actually becomes a threat.
The best way to prevent budrot is good genetics and keeping plants dry.
Curing and preventing are two pairs of shoes...
Curing is harder than preventing, right genetics and arflow are things we thing about in spring when choosing growspot.
in summer you have the option to spray all summer long horsetail, neem and garlic, milk and EM -> or just let the plant grow and give her NPK topdress and thats it.
The plants that were sprayed down all summer long(provided they are getting water and sun and nutrients, they need) will be visibly more
resistant to PM and Mold.
of cause if the enviroment is deadly moist, dark and rainy for couple of weeks, every organic material will mold some time or another.
I wont spread lies here, so i will report back from my EXp this year. there are not many grows in november at 51nLat, stay tuned
) is a parasitic fungus. it will first get on your plant and colonize it. AFTER this it will infect the cells and weaken them first and then kill these off to feed from them and to bloom at the same time.
As soon as bodrot is visibly
there=the plant was already infected for several days and maybe weeks, sometimes even a month before the conditions are good(plant is weakened by fthe fungus+the enviroment right(=bad weather))
so if you see budrot in week 5, this could mean your plant is sick for many weeks already. so fighting budrot makes sense IMO.
there is no way you could spray copper/Bicarbonate fungicide in general in veg and be budrotfree by week 5 or 6. the budrot would attack the fresh grown budsites and leaves and not care about the sprayed parts of the plant.
another story is Pythium oligandrum D.
this is a fungus and will colonize your toe if you have toenailfungus on your foot, it will eat the fungus and the toe will heal again. it works on wine, apples and strawberries already in a commercial test ops. the problem right now is to get that stuff.
Its just a matter of time when we will heat budrot, right genetics, knowledge of growpotselection AND the right biological tools.
New discoveries were never made by nonbelievers and naysayers
Some people said if you sail west from Europe, you will fall in an oceanic hole, but we have north and southamerica now...
its in italian, but the 3d animation is pretty childproof
if somebody has foottoenailfungus maybe you want to try this :https://www.pythium.eu/pages.php?lang...f-a76b5c3784fc
and here in english:
Parasitic relationships between Pythium oligandrum Drechsler and some other species of the Oomycetes class.
Parasitic relationships between Pythium oligandrum Drechsler and some phytopathogenic species of the Oomycetes class were investigated on agar plates. A high parasitic ability of Pythium oligandrum on Pythium ultimum Trow, P. debaryanum Hesse, and Aphanomyces laevis De By species was proved in this study of relationships among these fungi, commonly populating the rhizosphere of emerging sugar beet. P. oligandrum produces numerous thin haustorial threads, searching the hyphae of host species and enwrapping them during the parasitation. In a later parasitation stage the host organs were enwrapped by thicker hyphae of P. oligandrum as well. P. oligandrum grew through the colony of parasitized species mostly within 24 hours after inoculation and was able to destroy it entirely within 5--6 days. P. oligandrum produced numerous fructification organs in contradistinction to parasitized species. P. oligandrum oospores germinated abundantly when host species were present. Hyperparasitism of P. oligandrum was found both in cultivation with a single host and in common cultivation with all three host species simultaneously.