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caught mold or mildew in very early stages...best course of action? Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-08-2017, 05:57 AM #21
kalopatchkid
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None of the things you mentioned will actually cure budrot, nor do you want to be spraying them in late flower when bud rot actually becomes a threat.

The best way to prevent budrot is good genetics and keeping plants dry.
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Old 09-08-2017, 06:28 AM #22
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With dense buds and high humidity, air movement is key.

I've had a serious producer for about 20 years. People would sometimes complain about her propensity to develop bud rot. Most of the time, I had no experience of her doing that.

The difference was air movement.

But re. the criticisms logged earlier, I've removed infected plants and/or buds from areas, by containing the affected areas, then cutting the suspect limbs/branches, and pulling them out. Sometimes/rarely a whole plant.

While spores are microscopic, and there's a chance of other areas already being infected (and maybe I'm just lucky) neither myself, or a person who I guided in such circumstances, have had the fungus spread after intervention.

A key endeavor, however, is after removal of suspect buds or plants, to keep a much closer eye on the general area the affected plant was in. And I almost NEVER spray anything on buds once they're heading toward maturity. Period. I'm even hesitant to spray plain water on them as they approach ripening.

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Originally Posted by kalopatchkid View Post
None of the things you mentioned will actually cure budrot, nor do you want to be spraying them in late flower when bud rot actually becomes a threat.

The best way to prevent budrot is good genetics and keeping plants dry.
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Old 09-08-2017, 01:39 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalopatchkid View Post
None of the things you mentioned will actually cure budrot, nor do you want to be spraying them in late flower when bud rot actually becomes a threat.

The best way to prevent budrot is good genetics and keeping plants dry.
Curing and preventing are two pairs of shoes...
Curing is harder than preventing, right genetics and arflow are things we thing about in spring when choosing growspot.
in summer you have the option to spray all summer long horsetail, neem and garlic, milk and EM -> or just let the plant grow and give her NPK topdress and thats it.
The plants that were sprayed down all summer long(provided they are getting water and sun and nutrients, they need) will be visibly more resistant to PM and Mold.
of cause if the enviroment is deadly moist, dark and rainy for couple of weeks, every organic material will mold some time or another.

I wont spread lies here, so i will report back from my EXp this year. there are not many grows in november at 51nLat, stay tuned

Budrot Botryotinia (Botrytis cinerea) is a parasitic fungus. it will first get on your plant and colonize it. AFTER this it will infect the cells and weaken them first and then kill these off to feed from them and to bloom at the same time.
As soon as bodrot is visibly there=the plant was already infected for several days and maybe weeks, sometimes even a month before the conditions are good(plant is weakened by fthe fungus+the enviroment right(=bad weather))
so if you see budrot in week 5, this could mean your plant is sick for many weeks already. so fighting budrot makes sense IMO.
there is no way you could spray copper/Bicarbonate fungicide in general in veg and be budrotfree by week 5 or 6. the budrot would attack the fresh grown budsites and leaves and not care about the sprayed parts of the plant.

another story is Pythium oligandrum D.
this is a fungus and will colonize your toe if you have toenailfungus on your foot, it will eat the fungus and the toe will heal again. it works on wine, apples and strawberries already in a commercial test ops. the problem right now is to get that stuff.
Its just a matter of time when we will heat budrot, right genetics, knowledge of growpotselection AND the right biological tools.
New discoveries were never made by nonbelievers and naysayers Some people said if you sail west from Europe, you will fall in an oceanic hole, but we have north and southamerica now...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6SYulcruYc
its in italian, but the 3d animation is pretty childproof

if somebody has foottoenailfungus maybe you want to try this :https://www.pythium.eu/pages.php?lang...f-a76b5c3784fc

and here in english:
Parasitic relationships between Pythium oligandrum Drechsler and some other species of the Oomycetes class.

Veselı D.
Abstract

Parasitic relationships between Pythium oligandrum Drechsler and some phytopathogenic species of the Oomycetes class were investigated on agar plates. A high parasitic ability of Pythium oligandrum on Pythium ultimum Trow, P. debaryanum Hesse, and Aphanomyces laevis De By species was proved in this study of relationships among these fungi, commonly populating the rhizosphere of emerging sugar beet. P. oligandrum produces numerous thin haustorial threads, searching the hyphae of host species and enwrapping them during the parasitation. In a later parasitation stage the host organs were enwrapped by thicker hyphae of P. oligandrum as well. P. oligandrum grew through the colony of parasitized species mostly within 24 hours after inoculation and was able to destroy it entirely within 5--6 days. P. oligandrum produced numerous fructification organs in contradistinction to parasitized species. P. oligandrum oospores germinated abundantly when host species were present. Hyperparasitism of P. oligandrum was found both in cultivation with a single host and in common cultivation with all three host species simultaneously.
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Old 09-09-2017, 10:18 PM #24
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brew a ACT from milk/EM1/kelp/hosetail extract aerated at 30°C for 24-30h added more horsetail extract and milk and foliar sprayed heavily.
the girls loved the spray so far and soaked in the foliar within ca5miutes, really really liked it! cloudy day not hot at all.
i dont know if i should feed the foliar bacteria with molasses or milk alone.
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Old 09-09-2017, 10:21 PM #25
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one member said he had very god exp with FILS from bayer(trifloxystrobin) chem and systemic, PM AND Botrytis protection for several weeks, but you can only buy it with a license in my country 1kilo for 230dollars:(
cant pm him it was a banned member avant gardener

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Old 09-09-2017, 10:48 PM #26
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It's already been mentioned several times but potassium bicarbonate acts as a fungicide, kills boytritis, mildew, etc. Similar to baking soda, which is sodium bicarbonate. It is non toxic, you can spray right up until harvest. Although you probably want to either wash it off or stop spraying a few days before harvest. Don't want the taste of baking soda in your buds.
Name brand is Green Cure, if you find an off brand you may save a couple bucks.
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Old 09-09-2017, 11:39 PM #27
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whoever said Prostop was dead on. Prostop/Mycostop is amazing stuff IMO. Just dont spray your pressure sprayer directly on the into the buds. i like to use a "air dusting" kind of spraying style - like an indirect spray that lands just enough spores to colonize. point the sprayer directly up or beside the buds and use the outdoor air movement to pinpoint your spray. its kind of a system you have to work out yourself but you get the idea.
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Old 09-11-2017, 12:23 AM #28
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thank you balsamfire, can you tell us the ingredients of this product?
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Old 09-11-2017, 12:36 AM #29
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If it's the Prestop Biofungicide it's a fungus you spray on your plants to colonize it before any of the other fungus have a chance to get a foot hold. https://www.agbio-inc.com/prestop.html
It seems like something that is more preventive than a cure for something you already have. https://www.agbio-inc.com/prestop-label.html is the label.
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