What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

250w HPS - 8 Plant modular Scrog

Cork144

Active member
Howdy Microgrowers! been some time since I've been in here.

Nearing the end of a 1kw 4 plant grow, and while doing it, I came to realize just how much of my passion when it comes to growing weed, was maximizing small spaces.
picture.php

Dont get me wrong, I will get a lot of herb and not have to dip into the black market for months, but theres always been a pull towards doing small, intimate setups and really getting intune with different strains.


Plan is to have a 250W verticle bulb, in or not in a cool tube, havent decided on that just yet really, with 8 modular screens angled at 45 degrees to maximize surface area.
picture.php

Doing scaled drawings on paper, the math has allowed me to add an extra 1.85sqft by just having tilting screens.

Each screen has .8941 of a square foot, total screen area will be 7.15sqft, giving me just under 35watts/sqft.

They will be 14" wide at the top, 12.5" long and 6.6" wide at the bottom

This is fairly low wattage per sqft, but the strain i am growing tastes better when the buds arent as dense, believe it or not, so airy nuggets arent a concern.

31.75grams per screen will be the 1g/w marker

picture.php


I will grow the plants up behind the screens, then supercrop them down and over the screen and tie them in place, I feel if I make the "actual top" of the plant the lower buds in the setup, it should encourage a better amount of feed to the buds that would normally be airy and smaller, while the plants "actual bottom branches" become stronger, top buds.

Just a couple of weeks away from chopping, so I can soon get building:)

Anyway just thought I would get the topic going before the build starts, as everyone has valuable opinions to chime in with, let me know what you think of the plans and what you would like to see me try :tiphat:

Cork
 
Last edited:

Cork144

Active member
Plan is to have 50% garden compost 50% perlite, in 4"x4" pots (5.7L), always found the more perlite the better.

Going to give fungal compost teas a go too, inspired by the compost tea - a complete guide, topic here;
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=231159
Turns out for a flowering fungal tea, I already have 2 of the 4 ingredients lay about, hydrolyzed krill and the molasses.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Mix # 4

Here's an effective fungal tea for flowering:

6 tbsps of liquid hydrolyzed fish fertilizer
6 tbsps earthworm castings
6 tbsps Dr.Earth Bud and Bloom Fertilizer
2 tbsps molasses.

Add to ~5 gallons of water and aerate for 18 hours at 75°, dilute 3:1 with water for drench applications.

Fungal teas are important during the flowering phase as fungal microbes play a major role in the uptake of phosphorus
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
Will be my first try at a organic nutrient routine, the batches will have to be made 24hours before I want to feed the plants, but I am ok with that, especially if the fungal microbes really help the plants in the flowering phase, helping me optimize yield potential, plus I have always loved organic weed when I can get a hold of it, just peace of mind compared to smoking hydro with all the scare storys of carcinogenic nutrients and such.
[/FONT]
 
Last edited:

Cork144

Active member
interesting, i never heard a plant tastes better when its fluff
not talking exactly fluff, but this cut builds such dense nuggets I think it might be to do with surface area, when my mate crops I prefer all the airy buds as they carry more taste?

I'm clueless too buddy but hey ho, thats how it is with this plant, each is different from the rest lol
 

shawkmon

Pleasantly dissociated
Veteran
i got ya, people give me shit alot about chopping plants early , but i seem to like the high better , less couchy , more flavor, . my theory is to chop the plant before it dies, so i can puff the life out of it. letting the plant flower extra long always changes the flavor for the worse it seems to me and the buzz isnt as nice , so i get it
 

Cork144

Active member
I think its because of the way it stacks calyxs, one comes from inside the other and they stack like that, like oldschool skunks, so its so dense not all of the actual bud structure is exposed to the air and therefore producing thc, where as the smaller nuggets dont become do dense, and therefore have more surface area to hold the thc, also on this plant the bottom buds are coated in resin
 

Cork144

Active member
nice idea, i wanna enjoy the show too!!

taking a seat as well! :lurk:

good luck! :wave:

cheers guys :dance013:

Anyone know if its worth cooltubing the 250 or not?

Flowering cab will be roughly 40"x40"x40" and the entire floor will be able to rotate, to allow access to all the plants, have a 164cfm 4" rhino

Edit: A few calculations and even with a 20% drop in suction from the filter, the air in the flowering cab should be being exchanged 4.85 times a minute, so I think no cooltube may be fine?
 

Cork144

Active member
If your air at intake is cool enaugh definely no cooltube.
It could be a bit here and there to be fair, its not a fresh air intake but aslong as I flower throughout the nights the ambient should be around 8-12C
This should be fun, are you going to document the build?
I shall do sir, I enjoy sharing my experience and helping others, I know how micro growers are always looking for interesting ways to get more bud:)
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top