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Whitefly

BuddhaSeeds

Member
Hello people! :biggrin:

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I think any grower has had the experience of knowing this pest, but for the newest in the cultivation of cannabis, I think is rather a small article to increase awareness of this pest.
As always, we will focus first on "know the enemy":
Actually there are different varieties of whitefly, but the most common in marijuana cultivation is the Trialeurodes vaporiorum. Usually invade crops inside and outside especially in hot climates.
Outdoors ... usually have about four generations per year (at least) but indoor growing ... where the environment is more controlled can have 12 generations per year, one generation each month.
Adults make their laying eggs on the undersides of the leaves. Therefore it is important to check the crop plants, we will always be "time" to act if we detect any pest. Keep in mind that time is critical in the fight against pests.
Females whitefly (adult) are 1 mm or 1.5 mm. approximately whitefly eggs are oval shape, about 0.25 mm.

It’s easy to detected by looking at the underside of the leaves, or to shake the ground, and flying off small and tiny whiteflies.
The approximate amount of eggs is between 180 and 200, its color changes from white to yellow, and goes through four larval stages in the estimated time of a month:
Phase 1: The larva has an approximate size of 0.25 mm. and digs its mouthparts in the leaf tissue to feed on the sap.
Phase 2: Achieve a size of about 0.4 mm. and appreciated the appearance of their legs.
Phase 3: The larva is transparent appearance and about 0.5 mm.
Phase 4: organs are developed and wings. Taking to fly away.
It is important to know that whiteflies can transmit viral diseases to our beloved plant. Since both their mouthparts, and their droppings cause the growth of fungus and virus.

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At temperatures below 15 ° C or above 30 ° C the eggs fail to hatch. Ideal temperatures are located around 20 º C and 25 º C (ideally which is usually marijuana grows).

A little late to recognize the pest, when the first circular spots on the sheet. (The larvae have already begun to feed).

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This significant damage is caused by the whitefly by ingesting the sap due to the thin stylet.

In a strong attack, the plant will lose their photosynthetic function.

As always, it's best to prevent:
1. - Indoors, good filters you can do with a bit of fabric on average in the air inlet will help to keep out unwanted bugs.
2. - The use of neem oil as a preventative is usually pretty good. It is one of the most widely used organic insecticide for its high preventive. Its applications can be either sprayed on the plant, as diluted in irrigation water (systemic insecticide). This achieves improve plant resistance to pests and fungi.
3. - The adhesive strips of bright yellow, attract whiteflies. If you have suspicions, install a few in your culture, just observe them from time to time.

I couldn’t prevent it... What I do?
The most effective way to control pests is through biological control:


One of the top predators is Amblyseius swirskii that its diet is among both the eggs of whiteflies, thrips, red spider and even, the larvae of these three plagues.

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Its application is quite simple ... just hang an envelope of such predators in the bottom of each plant if outdoors, if your culture is inside a bag will suffice per square meter.


We note that if the plant is flowering, trichomes mobility prevent these predators.

Here you can look many distributors in different countries for find bioremediation: http://www.koppert.es/distribucion/

As home remedies that may be more affordable for farmers means:
Home remedy (recommended if flowering).
• One liter of water.
• 2 table spoons of hand soap (we use the neutral pH to floor)
• 3 cigarette butts
• 1 tablespoon alcohol (pharmacy)
The hand soap, you can scratch perfectly with a kitchen grater.
The three butts put them in a glass of water for 24 hours, strain the water and add it to the liter of water along with a tablespoon of alcohol and soap.
Spray on plants every two or three days, especially on the underside of leaves.

We set forth below a series of "counter-attack" to eliminate this pest:

NEEM OIL (Azadiracta indica)

Composition
Neem oil is rich in different active substances: azadirachtin. salanín. melantrioL nimbidin, Nimbin, betistotero, azadirachtionol, fatty acids, 7-deacetyl flavonoids. vepaoL limonoid, 17-deacetyl hidrx and azadiradione.
Application
-It can be applied with any spray equipment: land, air or germination using plenty of water to cover the foliage, ensuring good application on crops.
- Your application is recommended to make a broth pH is between 6 and 6.5.
- Can be mixed with insecticides routine if the pH does not exceed 7.



Garlic (Allium sativum)

Composition
Chemical definition: 100% garlic extract obtained by maceration and pressing sterilized garlic bulbs to prolong the life of the active ingredients: Alina, alieina, cycloid of alitina and diallyl disulfide.
Description:
Perennial Lily family with repellent properties, bactericide, fungicide and insecticide. The decoction of its bulbs is effective against larvae chewing and sucking insects such as aphids.
It acts by ingestion, causing certain digestive disorders and the insect stops feeding.
It is an effective repellent and insect pest birds is high systemic spectrum, is absorbed by the vascular system of the plant. Changing the natural smell of the plant prevents pest attack.
The garlic extract is completely biodegradable, does not change the smell and taste of fruits and vegetables, or any culture where applicable. The smell of garlic in the environment disappears within minutes after application.

Features:
100% efficacy against: whitefly, red spider, thrips, scale insects and aphids. Application: Vegetables, fruit and ornamental plants under plastic and outdoors. Nontoxic: OLEATBIO treatment is completely biological and non-toxic, there is no possibility of poisoning or for people who apply, or for beings who can eat any fruit, vegetable or plant treated, produces no toxic waste. Biological causes no change in the appearance or not in the form of fruits.
Safety time zero: plants, vegetables or fruit in question does not have toxic consequences even if ingested or consumed immediately after treatment.
It creates resistance: By having a mechanical operation effect destroying the protective layer of the insect and not through genetic and flanks current chemical insecticides, prevents insects develop their strengths.



Caution
When mixed other pesticides may be necessary to decrease the recommended dose of these.



Compatibilities
It is recommended to combine with products that enhance their action, or sulfur.



How to use
The mode is the traditional treatment: high pressure equipment and low volume. This product is effective in the liquid state, with the need to physically reach the insect. Therefore it is important to perform the treatment by spraying, with a veneer of achieving all the treated plant (wetting the leaves on both sides) so that the result is 100%.







Horsetail (Equisetum arvense)

Description and uses
Horsetail contains a saponin toxic to fungi called "equisetonin" and silicic acid, which promotes the plant structure. Besides these components has also Flavonoids as "Galuteolina" or "Equisetrina". Finally it should be noted his wealth in certain organic acids such as nicotine, or Dimethyl Palustrina. All these components make Horsetail is one of the most effective fungicides in farming. Even he acknowledges some action insecticide against aphids and spider mites.


Preparation method

A solution to a ratio of 1 kilo of Horsetail per 4 liters of water and let soak for 24 hours, should be removed from vigorously for 15 minutes at the beginning and end of that period. The resulting solution was dissolved in the broth at the rate of spraying of the mash 5 liters per 200 liters of broth.

Mode of application

In foliar spraying with fine drop. Thorough wetting the whole plant. Do not apply in very hot or hours of high solar incidence.

Incompatibilities

Not be mixed in the same application broth with copper, sulfur, or with nettle slurry products to enhance their action as potassium soap, amino or wetting agents.

Directions

In vegetable crops, vines and fruit trees in the control of mildew, Phythopthora sp, Powdery Mildew, Scab, Septoria, Rust, Botrytis and Alternaria sp. As preventive treatments every eight days at a time of maximum risk (several consecutive days with the plant in full vegetative growth with high humidity and little sun). As curative treatment every three days for a week.

Recommendations
To enhance its curative action as recommended to mix with iron chelate to the manufacturer's recommended dose.

Toxicity

Non-toxic, this product has a very recognized dietary use, herbalism, homeopathy and conventional medicine as both naturalist.
Risk to terrestrial and aquatic fauna: There is no such danger.



Hope this item will be useful for everyone, have a nice day!
Bye



 

justanotherbozo

Active member
Veteran
nicely done man, this will help a lot of new growers still learning to identify pests common to our hobby.

...thanks for sharin'.

bozo
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
I use volck oil,
its old school stuff
very low on the order toxicity,
also its an ovacide and is lethal to a plethora of other pests like spidermites etc
I always have a bottle in my arsenal. it works extremely well and its cheap, about $7 a bottle at lowes.



a member here posted a home remedy that also work like a charm,


can't remember his name?
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE. That's right. Hydrogen peroxide.
Use 3 cups of water, 1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide, and a few drops of dish soap. Pour it in your spray bottle, shake it up, and spray your white fly problem away. Spray the tops and bottoms of the leaves and the top layer of the medium. Use once a week for 3 weeks. I hardly saw anything after 2 weeks but I gave them a 3rd treatment just as a precaution. Apparently the hydrogen peroxide kills the egg sac and eradicates this pest right at it most vulnerable point. After 3 applications I am free of this aggravating flying satan. I made up a new solution each time I sprayed as the peroxide breaks down and looses it's potency.
Now I'm wondering if this solution will kill spider mite eggs too, but I'm not introducing them into my garden to find out.lol
Hope this helped someone.
 

BuddhaSeeds

Member
Great! Thanks for complete this threads! I'm from Spain and I write about my experience! And appreciate that together we can improve this info!
 
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