Can we please make a Sticky for Powdery Mildew, Bud Rot, etc...

TheGreenReaper · Jan 15, 2012

I am open, but maybe need you to explain the article to me...as my interpretation was that it proved their original hypothesis that leaf pH is genetically determined, not determined by soil conditions or external conditions.

I am not sure how I am to extrapolate that H202 is absorbed by the leaf surfaces and thereby changing the plant pH. If anything it disproves that point by saying that leaf pH is genetically determined - unable to changed by external conditions. This would also point towards the reasons some strains are more susceptible to PM then others...as it points towards lower leaf pH potentially being in the genetics of PM susceptible cannabis.

The topic of leaf pH being genetic is actually exciting news as with the proper measuring devices, it could help in large scale breeding projects adding the variable of choosing potentially PM or mold resistant strains. The next step down the line is finding the actual DNA coding and gene responsible for higher leaf pH.

TLoft13 · Jan 16, 2012

vapedg13 said:
Sulfur vapes are the easiets to use on large crops if your small time try www.greencure.net

I have tried milk/water, h202 and water, dutch master & penetrator, almost everything.... the pm always returns in about 4-5 days......Greencure keeps it at bay for about 10 days twice as long.

Pm is like herpes for weed....once you get it... you'll never be rid of it but you can controll it.

This. Use Greencure, against PM and BudRot, absolutly non-toxic. I had to express-ship mine from America to this side of the Atlantic, paying double what it usually costs- still one of the best buys in my life.

TLoft13 · Jan 16, 2012

grapeman said:
You will find that just spraying water (H2O) will do the same as spraying H2O2.

It's the water that kills spores on contact and not the H2O2. Just fill your sprayer with water, add a surfactant and spray. Kills PM on contact.

Also, I've never heard of "fake" PM.

We germans call it by this name.
Echter Mehltau= "True PM"= Powdery Mildew
Falscher Mehltau= "False PM"= Downy mildew
Greetings,
T.

gibhill · Mar 26, 2012

So, yeah.
I read this:
https://www.*****************/index.php?/topic/17610-powdery-mildew-problems-and-cures/

Then I tried the first solution, heat. I nearly expired keeping the temps at over 38c for an hour and a half, but the powdery mildew was completely untouched.

So the next day I tried the H2O2. 1 part hydrogen peroxide to 3 parts water. I sprayed it on the plants pretty generously and it looked like the PM was gone, but it was just that the leaves were wet. As soon as they dried off, there it still was. White and powdery.

So, the next day, I tried the PH up treatment. Now my water comes out of the tap at 8.6 PH, so adding any Ph up was unneccesary as I read the article. I used a pump sprayer this time and really let 'em have it. No. This didn't work. So, the next day I did use PH up and took my water up to 9.1. Again with the pump sprayer I saturated the entire plants and again they dried off all nice and powdery white.

I can't get pottasium bicarbonate, so tomorrow it's baking soda day. I'll let you know how I do.

I can't buy Serenade spray here, so I'll have to get some posted by friends if the NaHCO3 solution doesn't work.

--What happened to the link I put on there?

takkada · Apr 8, 2012

using eagle20

using eagle20

i just got this stuff, does anyone know if this will work on wk four of flower, and how much per gallon of water. :thank you:

help please.

takkada · Apr 9, 2012

vapedg13 said:
This is what I did and it worked for me

In a 32 oz spray botttle of water add 1/2 cup of 3% peroxide (h202) & 3 scoops of greencure...spray 100% of your plant

View Image

View Image

The greencure kills the spores on contact...the h202 raises the plant ph kills it from the inside

You will need to totaly clean your Growroom... I used a Anti Fungal Bomb...Fungaflor...Works like a sulfur burner but no rotten egg smell
View Image

can eagle20 be applyed through a siol drench. or only a spray ?

takkada · Apr 9, 2012

takkada said:
can eagle20 be applyed through a siol drench. or only a spray ?

and if so how much per gallon of water .

takkada · Apr 18, 2012

takkada said:
and if so how much per gallon of water .

can fugulator bomb be used during flower ,

takkada · Apr 18, 2012

serria natural science 204 fungicide

serria natural science 204 fungicide

has anyone tried this product in flower .

zamzia · May 11, 2012

I appear to be having trouble with bud rot SINCE chopping the plant! I pulled it on Monday and checked the buds last night and two have what I assume is bud rot. It looks all gooey

The buds are hanging from a laundry hanger at the top of my tent with the exhaust fan still on. Is this bud rot and can I do anything to stop losing more of my crop?

PLEASE!!

zamzia

puff adder · May 11, 2012

You probably missed the rot when harvesting. Often the rot is deep in the middle, and easy to miss, and it continues after chopping while there's moisture inside.

I'd say the chances of losing more gets lower as things dry more, but you might want to check all the big nugs for rot.

zamzia · May 11, 2012

puff adder said:
You probably missed the rot when harvesting. Often the rot is deep in the middle, and easy to miss, and it continues after chopping while there's moisture inside.

I'd say the chances of losing more gets lower as things dry more, but you might want to check all the big nugs for rot.

Thanks puff adder. I've had a root around and seen a thread about botrytis. I think it must have been down to unusually high RH during the flowering stage. I think it was around 60%, whoops.

I'll get cracking seperating the nugs out of the buds to aid drying and hope that does the job. I am pretty gutted as it is as they were pretty good sized colas

zamzia

LEDNewbie · Dec 24, 2012

Here is a question about powdery mildew... Its a spore that gets airborne and can float to anywhere like a piece of equipment or walls. Things like that. How long can powdery mildew live for when it's not on a plant? 1 month? 6 months? 1 year???

Thanks and Merry Christmas to everyone :tiphat:

the gnome · Jan 12, 2013

takkada said:
has anyone tried this product in flower .

i read on another site that it could
(gro-shop guy said so...go figure)
So when the guy did use it
the tops of the leaves got screwed up?

the 2oz can will treat 1500sqft so he probably concentrated it
in too small a space and its whats used in commercial greenhouses
the can say it can be used with plants in the area to be treated,
but precautions should be taken to test a few plants to see.
definitely would NOT use fungaflor on live plants in veg or bloom.
instructions mention nothing of being used on any food crops
and this stuff is a pretty nasty chem.

for us, imo, this should only be used between grows to
sanitized the room of spores.

sunset limited · Jan 15, 2013

Tactical Farmer said:
Botrytis is out very quickly after these massive rain storms & this OMRI stuff isn't working.

Anyone having any luck slowing down these nasty spores ?

have you tried actinovate? it is OMRI listed, but the shit actually works. it's a microbe culture that can be applied up to and including the day of harvest. i know the idea of spraying anything on plants that are susceptible to mold may seem counterintuitive. the shit works though. unlike green cure, it won't burn the bejeezus out of your plants even if you spray it with the lights on/sun up. where serenade literally smells like shit, actinovate is clear and odorless. applied as a foliar, it's effective against bud rot and PM. applied to the roots, it helps with pythium. i believe it's also labeled for fusarium and a couple other things.

if you're ust over the natural remedies though, i recommend bayer flint. it's not cheap. it's a systemic fungicide that's labeled for agriculture use. it's very popular in commercial grape production. i believe the window for most food crops is 14 days before harvest. it's labeled for PM and botrytis alike.

on an aside, a good PM remedy that i've found is to use a 100ppm of silicate as a foliar.

deadpup · Feb 27, 2013

strange situation......it seems as if its in the coco balls (clay/lava rock) used in the DWC tubs, useing 4" plastic net cups. initially it seemed as if it was just hard water deposits.
in the past someone used 10, micro dropletts of bleach per 5gal to stop any algea growth in tubs.
how do you think it might work out ? suggestions would be greatfully accepted.

yes, the whole douching the rooms with bleach applications along with anti fungus products.

the air is being filtered,circulated and ionized to the max with unonairs 2, 5000's and a smaller 300

keeping everything as clean as possible

eagle20ew ?
meltatox (msds?)

oh,it has seemed to always start on medium sized leaves

thanks so much everyone !

be careful out there

grimmace · May 2, 2013

Sulfur works 100% for me. had this issue long ago, burned elemental sufur during dark periods for 3 hours at a time, 4 times, 3 days apart. wiped out the pm. (indoors) it has never came back. before i tried safer, and ed rosenthals zero tolerance with no success. as a preventative i sulfur 1 time per crop. about 1 week into flower. i think this helps against botrytis also. havn't had much problem since. occasional grey mold bud, but tends to be one that gets a bit light burned.
keeping humidity below 40% is really most of the battle tho.

Greenheart · May 10, 2013

I would like to know more about the enemy Powdery Mildew.

What is it's life cycle?

I understand that it takes minutes to recognize the host and attach itself. It progresses usually to petiole or leaf twisting and curling. Then to small white patches here and there predominantly on fan leaves. From there I have read it starts to spread across the plant stunting and deforming growth possibly preventing frutation. Then forms black and brown spores which will overwinter on plant material.

How long does it take to get to the overwinter stage?

Can it survive without material on surfaces of walls? How long? I have read water is enough to kill it if 100% saturation is achieved.

What is the dormancy time on nonsoil surfaces?

I have read thermal composting will not kill it. Over years? How about vermicomposting? Foliar EWC is supposed to combat it but is this do to saturation?

Possibly soaking infected material in large containers for extended periods and then composting?

How long will it stay in the soil? Specifically the strains that affect Cannabis Sativa L.

Can it be completely removed from a plant? I have heard stories that it even remains in seed.

Arne Aiking · May 26, 2013

Light - Not Chemicals

Light - Not Chemicals

I have studied the thread on mildew and budrot. May I suggest you consider this option, without chemicals:

In Canada: http://www.cleanlight.ca/hobby-garden

In USA: http://www.stoppowderymildew.com/

Thanks !

SittingBull · Jul 1, 2013

For the love of go do not use Eagle20 on flowering plants. Also, use a respirator because that shite is nasty. It will stink your whole f-ing house up. Seal your room.

Be safe everyone.

Can we please make a Sticky for Powdery Mildew, Bud Rot, etc...

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