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Old 11-12-2018, 03:58 PM #11
St. Phatty
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Talked with the staff at the local farm supply turned grow stores.

Said they sold a lot less soil in 2018, because people were learning to re-use last year's soil, instead of buying all new.

As it should be.

They probably bought enough in 2017 to last 3 years.
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Old 11-12-2018, 06:34 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Switcher56 View Post
Ummm, a lot of chaff in the video :( Perlite and vermiculite are 2 different beasts. Use one or the other??? When someone says that, it has a tendency to reduce ones credibility! He failed to understand the purpose of each component. Unless you live in an area of extreme arid conditions, vermiculite should be avoided in soil mixes. A better component that retains more water than perlite would be turface. Let's just say it (IMO/E) falls between perlite and vermiculite, for 2 reasons: not only does vermiculite retain too much water, it has a tendency to turn in to mush; and if you are using it for aeration it is the wrong component. Turface does not decompose and retains 40-50X its weight in water.

So, you can accomplish the same thing with only one component that does not disintegrate over time
I've always used perlite. Apart from this year, we usually get rain every 2-3 weeks all summer.
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Old 11-12-2018, 08:28 PM #13
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old soil is at friends place and he is using it next year so I'm starting fresh.
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:33 PM #14
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For the OP:



Quote:
Originally Posted by dank.frank View Post

The first formula, will tell us how much of any given amendment to apply to achieve a desired nutrient level within a known planting area.

[(pounds per acre needed/square foot in an acre) x sq ft to be fertilized] / elemental percentage of fertilizer being applied

Example: A soil test says you need to apply 120 lbs per acre of P. You decide to use steamed bone meal. 2-14-0. Let's assume you have a 2' x 5' soil bed, so 10 sq ft.

[(120 lb/acre / 43,560 sq ft/acre) x 10 sq ft] / 0.14 = 0.1968 lbs of 2-14-0 steamed bone meal to provide 120 lbs of P to the 10 sq ft bed.

However, notice we also applied nitrogen in the bone meal. So that brings us to the second necessary formula, which is a simple 3 part process.

A. weight of fertilizer applied x percent of elemental nutrition
B. Square Foot per acre / square foot fertilized
C. A x B


To continue with the example above, in the process of applying the bone meal to get 120 lbs of P, we also added:

A. 0.1968 lbs bone meal x 0.02 (nitrogen) = 0.0004
B. 43,560 sq ft per acre / 10 sq ft = 4,356
C. 0.004 x 4,356 = 17.424 lbs of N applied

This post should help you a bit if you actually have a soil test and know what base NPK values you are trying to hit. Honestly, just reading that thread in general would help a lot of people.



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Old 11-13-2018, 01:42 AM #15
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I pull 5-10lb plants ALL DAY with just
Chicken manure
Bone meal
Langbeinite
Alfalfa
No compost tea. Couple simple cheap top dressings in late veg and flower. Watered on drip.

My base mix is something like
1 part lava rock
1 part perlite
1 part coco
1 part fir bark or peat
2 parts compost of some sort. Cow manure, mushroom compost, vermi, greenwaste

Get it in bulk delivered by dump truck. Each truck and transfer can bring 40 cubic yards. Couple of them and your gold.
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Old 11-13-2018, 02:50 AM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrushnYuba View Post
I pull 5-10lb plants ALL DAY with just
Chicken manure
Bone meal
Langbeinite
Alfalfa
No compost tea. Couple simple cheap top dressings in late veg and flower. Watered on drip.

My base mix is something like
1 part lava rock
1 part perlite
1 part coco
1 part fir bark or peat
2 parts compost of some sort. Cow manure, mushroom compost, vermi, greenwaste

Get it in bulk delivered by dump truck. Each truck and transfer can bring 40 cubic yards. Couple of them and your gold.
Nice. How long do they veg before you put them out?
Location?
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Old 11-13-2018, 08:02 AM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TychoMonolyth View Post
Nice. How long do they veg before you put them out?
Location?
Norcal. All veg is done in a heated greenhouse with 90f daytime temps. Only time i ever have a plant inside is rooting clones. Seeds are usually started in feb in 15 gal smart pots and planted in early May. Clones are taken in early March. Planted early to late May depending on if the garden has lights. Plants always are in aggressive growth. If i ever have a plant slow down, i replace it.
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Old 11-13-2018, 01:37 PM #18
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Many thanks CrushnYuba. Do you top them a few times?

Now that we can grow in the open, I want to try a few monsters up here.
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Old 11-13-2018, 09:29 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TychoMonolyth View Post
Many thanks CrushnYuba. Do you top them a few times?

Now that we can grow in the open, I want to try a few monsters up here.
I don't want to get too off track because this thread was about amendments. I try to top as little as possible. It slows growth and messes with structure. A plant will naturally want to grow into a ball with lots of tops unless it is crowded at some point. This goes for foliage and roots. If you veg them in a packed greenhouse in small pots or transplant into small final pots you will need to top.

If i ever top, it's just 1 time after it gets transplanted.
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