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Old 11-21-2013, 09:25 AM #1
shaggyballs
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Shaggy's guide for newbie's

Please remember to share what you have learned with others!!
Any who wish to profit himself alone from the knowledge given him, rather than serve others through the knowledge he has gained from learning, is betraying knowledge and rendering it worthless!

How to tell Male from a Female

Female on left.............................. .............................. ..Male on the right

Early Male

Female




If you are not sure wait!
The ball clusters will grow in numbers and swell up in size, then start to hang, then eventually open and release their pollen!
But this can take a while.

common mistakes made by newbies

med-man method of growing

GROW FAQ

ICMAG'S OFFICIAL ~DIY~ LINK-O-RAMA

OVERGROW FAQ

Make your own hydro systems.
https://www.diynetwork.com/videos/hyd...ing/35023.html
https://www.diynetwork.com/search/res...diynetwork.com

Using Surfactants, Wetting Agents, and Adjuvants in the Greenhouse

In depth study of Nutrients and Additives for Cannabis

Brix=Healthy Plants

How-To's video
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Cannabis Cultivation Words And Definitions.pdf (87.4 KB, 21 views)
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Old 12-29-2013, 03:05 AM #2
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Good stuff
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Old 01-06-2014, 03:07 PM #3
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Cloning
There is no question that having a strong root system is the best way to have a STRONG plant structure and BIG FAT STICKY BUDS!!!




Cloning For Hydroponic Growers

AEROCLONER

This technique of cloning is done by taking a cutting, and suspending it in the air for water to be absorbed in mist form. If you missed the article on how to make your own Aeroponic Clone Box, click here!
Directions:

Step 1: For best results, use a pair of latex gloves and a sterilized blade for cutting. “Keeping it Clean” will help prevent against unwanted bacteria growth and diseases; ultimately increasing your success rate. Make sure your cloning box is ready to go, no leaks and such. Make sure your lights are working properly. You should have a weak light (CFL or T5) for new clones to prevent light poisoning. New clones do not need much light.

Step 2: Liquid cloning solution is not 100% necessary, but drastically decreases the time it takes to grow new roots (In as little as 3 days!). Do NOT freak out if your clones take up to 20 days to show roots! This is normal, some strains may take longer than others. You should also note, that cuttings can be taken from any part of the plant (lower or upper part of the plant), but cuttings taken from new growth (upper part) generally root faster, and are generally healthier clones.

Step 3: Find the cutting you want, and remove it from the plant with a 45° angle cut. You can take the branch off and then cut the angle if it is easier. Gently scuff and remove the top layer of plant material (Epidermis) from the base where you made your cut.

Step 4: Soak in a cloning solution or water for 2 minutes before placing into your clone box. You can cut your fan leaves in half to create more room, and to allow your new cuttings to concentrate more on making roots.

Step 5: Maintain a temperature of 70°F-78°F and RH (relative humidity) of 70-80%. Spray leaves frequently (1-3 times a day) with pH 6.0 water. C02 supplement may be added, 1000-1500 ppm max.

Step 6: Now, just maintain and wait! Newly developed clones can be transplanted into both soil or a hydroponic system. Plants should have a vigorous amount of roots before being transplanted to decrease the chances of transplant shock.

DIY AEROCLONER


Seed germination

Well, I'm not a fan of the paper towel method.....sorry.

The First 72 hours of a seed's life determines sex!
Best Practice for germinating seeds......not my opinion, this is science......

1.) the term "gravitropism" Basically means, roots grow down and stems grow up. This is very important! The emerging radicle isn't happy if it can't grow down and the emerging cotyledon and stem gets upset if it can't grow up! Stress=male.

2.)Roots hate light. Light on roots creates stress. Stress=male.

3.)delicate root hairs are damaged when the roots are handled, IE taken out of the paper and then put into medium.

4.)roots adapt to the medium. Hydro roots are very different than their soil counterparts. Roots in a sterile medium do not have the mychoryzal symbiotes....etc. Therefore, going from paper towel to soil=stress!

Those are just Botanical Facts!

So, keeping the facts in mind here's the best way to germinate Cannabis seeds:

1.)make a hole in the well watered, moist soil with a stick, dowel, finger.....fill the hole with a root inoculate like Myco's or other suitable inoculation. We want to colonize the root zone ASAP and nothing works better than germinating the seed with all the friendlies right there in the soil.

2.)put seed in the hole, gently cover the seed and put it under bright light with temps about 72-75 degrees. The bright light is very important! T5's are great for this.

3.)keep the soil ever so slightly moist until you see germination. Once you see the emerging cotyledon, stop misting! You don't want damping off!

4.)do NOT germinate seeds in a high humidity environment, like a clone dome, etc. High humidity is for cuttings not seeds!

Solo cups with holes poked in the bottom work well, as do small nursery pots. Large containers hold too much water for proper germination....it's best to germ in small containers and then transplant.

I know people have success with the paper towel method....but they also have success with this method as well. One would rarely get less than 70% females using this technique.

Sterile rez or bennie's

Basically it comes down to this: Your garden will produce dead plant matter. Something must happen to it. If you do nothing the fungi and bacteria already in the area will eat it. So you can sterilize, which is ez and works great, But must be repeated every 3-5 days .
Or you can start your own little battle of the microbes and see who wins, if you add plenty of good microbes you have a good chance that the good microbes will win.

I recommend microbes personally!
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Old 01-12-2014, 06:06 PM #4
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NUTRIENT AVAILABILITY

PH isn't the only parameter that needs to be managed.
EC/PPM is more important - it regulates transpiration.
Chelated nutrients make pH even less critical. pH drifts because the plants use up ions. What's the point of a stable pH if there's no food? So in soil the microbes and the plant changes the PH of the soil to absorb the nutes that become available at a higher or lower PH! (or there will be a resulting element imbalance causes antagonisms) A good solution for hydro growers is to replenish nutes more often, which also stabilizes pH.
Or better yet Drain to Waste if you can!!






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Old 01-22-2014, 03:22 PM #5
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great pic and clear on information....very nice shaggyballs!!
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Old 01-24-2014, 03:14 AM #6
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High-Pressure Sodium

High-Pressure Sodium- HPS Lamps are probably the most innovated bulb on the market for flowering. There are many shapes, sizes and brands of bulbs. For every HPS bulb, you need a rated ballast for it. 35, 50, 70, 100, 150, 200, 310, 400, 600 and 1000 watt bulbs all require a ballast. A 1000w bulb needs a 1000w ballast. Some ballasts are switchable from HPS to MH, and some are switchable from 110v-220v. It is completely necessary to use the rated ballast for each bulb, as each are very unique on how they run. Some HPS bulb companies include (but not limited to): Philips (SonAgro), Westinghouse (Ceramalux), Sylvania (Lumalux), GE (Lucalox), EYE (Hortilux). HPS run on the red, orange and yellow band, around 630nm. This is most comparable to the harvest sun, which is why they are most ideal for flowering. An HPS lamp operates by passing electricity through vaporized mercury and sodium within the arc tube.

High pressure sodium lamps vary between 90/150 lm/w (A 1000w bulb will typically emit 100,000+ lumens). Their average lifespan is twice that of metal halides, but after 18,000 hours of use, they will start to draw more electricity than their rated watts while gradually producing less light. HPS bulbs are very efficient. Their disadvantage is they are deficient in the blue spectrum. If a gardener were to start a young plant under a HPS bulb, she/he would see impressive vertical growth. In fact, probably too impressive. Most plants would grow up thin and lanky and in no time you will have to prune your plant back before it grows into the light fixture. This sometime poses a problem for new growers. When using an HPS light, plants tend to have more “empty” space in between nodes, which is mostly just wasted space. Most experienced growers prefer using fluorescent or MH lights in the vegetative state to avoid this. Plants that get too big, too fast, often have issues during the flowering stage. They get too big to support themselves, and require more light/water/nutrients to survive. Most growers will argue, that although HPS lights WILL grow your plants bigger and faster, that doesn’t always mean you’ll have a bigger yield. Metal Halide lights emit the blue spectrum, which will promote slower, thicker (bushier) growth. This, typically, is what most growers prefer. Smaller, bushier plants take up less room. The flower of the plant will look different depending on the type of bulb used. If using an HPS light through the entire life of the plant, you will notice “popcorn” buds throughout the plant. This is because of the long spaces between nodes. When budding a smaller, bushier plant, it will seem as if the entire stem is a bud, because there is little room between nodes.
At the end of life, high-pressure sodium lamps exhibit a phenomenon known as cycling, which is caused by a loss of sodium in the arc. Sodium is a highly reactive element, and is easily lost by reacting with the arc tube made of aluminum oxide and the products are sodium oxide and aluminum:

6 Na + Al2O3 → 3 Na2O + 2 Al
As a result, these lamps can be started at a relatively low voltage but as they heat up during operation, the internal gas pressure within the arc tube rises and more and more voltage is required to maintain the arc discharge. As a lamp gets older, the maintaining voltage for the arc eventually rises to exceed the maximum voltage output by the electrical ballast. As the lamp heats to this point, the arc fails and the lamp goes out. Eventually, with the arc extinguished, the lamp cools down again, the gas pressure in the arc tube is reduced, and the ballast can once again cause the arc to strike. The effect of this is that the lamp glows for a while and then goes out, repeatedly. The major disadvantage to using HPS lights, is that they create a lot of heat. If you have an open faced hood, it’s difficult to keep the temperature down enough to keep it close to your plants. That’s why it’s recommended to use a hood that has a glass insulation cover and ventilation holes on the side so you can hook up an exhaust fan to help keep things cool. This will allow you to keep your light as close as possible without burning them up, so you can make the most of your light. Below is a guide for how many lumens are lost with the distance your light is from your plants.

Pros: High Pressure Sodium lights are currently the industry-leading choice of light bulb. It has the best overall lumen/watt ratio, the strongest intensity, a wide range of spectrum and last much longer then other traditional growing bulbs.
Cons: High Pressure Sodium bulbs are rather expensive, both initial cost and power consumption. They produce a lot of heat, and if not properly installed they can be dangerous. If not properly ventilated, they can pose heat problems and potentially burn your plants.

HPS emery consumption chart

HID Light Output Primary Growing Area Supplemental Area

100 watts 2′ x 2′ 3′ x 3′
250 watts 3′ x 3′ 4′ x 4′
400 watts 4′ x 4′ 6′ x 6′
600 watts 8′ x 8′ 12′ x 12′


MH (Metal Halide)

MH (Metal Halide) is a member of the high-intensity discharge (HID) family of lamps. They produce high light output for their size, making them a compact, powerful, and efficient light source. Like other gas-discharge lamps such as the very similar mercury-vapor lamps, metal-halide lamps produce light by making an electric arc in a mixture of gases. In a metal-halide lamp, the compact arc tube contains a high-pressure mixture of argon, mercury, and a variety of metalhalides. The mixture of halides will affect the nature of light produced, influencing the correlated color temperature and intensity (making the light bluer, or redder, for example). The argon gas in the lamp is easily ionized, and facilitates striking the arc across the two electrodes when voltage is first applied to the lamp. The heat generated by the arc then vaporizes the mercury and metal halides, which produce light as the temperature and pressure increases. MH emits mostly blue, which is why growers find it suitable for vegetation. They allow your plant to grow at it’s own rate; unlike when using HPS, the plant feels the need to grow faster. Using MH during vegetation ensures a grower a bushy, fulled out plant. The nodes will be closer together apposed to using HPS.

Pros: Metal Halide lights go hand-in-hand with High Pressure Sodium lamps, being the industry’s leading source of light. They produce very good lumen/w output, offering a wide range of spectrum (mostly blue) and are relatively cheap. They are the best suitable for vegetation; normally providing a very even and bushy growth.
Cons: Metal Halide lights “burn out” faster than other grow bulbs (about 1/2 the life of a typical HPS). They run very hot, much like HPS lights, so ventilation is a must. Metal Halide lights also (unless a dual ballast) require there own type of ballast.







Some important terms to know:

Watt-
Measure of electrical power (w)

Volt- Measure of electrical charge (v)

Kelvin- Measure of color temperature (K)

Lumen- Measure of light brightness (lu)

Capsule- tecnically correct term for a HID "bulb".

Candela- Measure of light intensity (cd)

Ampere- Measure of electrical current

Cut-off- A distinctive line of light produced by the shield in a headlight that blocks light above a certain height in order to prevent blinding of other motorists.

Beam Pattern- The pattern of light that is projected onto the ground which includes angle of lateral dispersion, width and depth of illumination.

Capsule- Another term for an HID bulb. Some refer to HID bulbs as gas discharge capsules.

Optics- The lighting control assembly structured around the bulb, which effects the dispersion of light and it's characteristics to a great degree.

HID (High Intensity Discharge)= Gas Discharge

Halogen= Incandescence

Yellow:
1500 k Candlelight
2700-2900 k Yellow painted fog halogen bulbs
-------------------------------
Yellowish white:
3200 k Sunrise/sunset
3200 k Premium H7 non painted halogen bulb
3400 k 1 hour from dusk/dawn
-------------------------------
White
4100 k Philips/Osram OEM HID D2S
5500 k Bright sunny daylight around noon
----------------
Blueish white
5500-5600 k Electronic photo flash
6000 k Philips Ultinon HID D2S
6500-7500 k Overcast sky
-----------------
Blue:
9000-12000 k Blue sky
-----------------
Purple:
28000 Northern sky
12000-30000 k Ultra Violet light (black light)
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I am free because I know that I alone am morally responsible for everything I do. I am free, no matter what rules surround me. If I find them tolerable, I tolerate them; if I find them too obnoxious, I break them. I am free because I know that I alone am morally responsible for everything I do.

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Old 01-24-2014, 03:23 AM #7
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The black-body radiance (Bλ) vs. wavelength (λ) curves for the visible spectrum.
Vertical axes of Planck's law plots building this animation were proportionally transformed to keep equal areas between functions and horizontal axis for wavelengths 380–780 nm.

PhET Interactive Simulation of the Blackbody Spectrum



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I am free because I know that I alone am morally responsible for everything I do. I am free, no matter what rules surround me. If I find them tolerable, I tolerate them; if I find them too obnoxious, I break them. I am free because I know that I alone am morally responsible for everything I do.

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Old 01-24-2014, 03:56 AM #8
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HUMIDITY

Figures in green are the sweet spot, yellow and red are out of range.
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I am free because I know that I alone am morally responsible for everything I do. I am free, no matter what rules surround me. If I find them tolerable, I tolerate them; if I find them too obnoxious, I break them. I am free because I know that I alone am morally responsible for everything I do.

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Old 01-24-2014, 02:40 PM #9
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Whats up shaggy. lookin kinda empty up in here. Just wanna say this is good info for all those that unaware and new to the green scene. As a matter of fact i just turned a newbie on to all this here on the site.
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Old 01-24-2014, 03:08 PM #10
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Thanks for the info and visuals. Tying the two together is tons more helpful than just instructions.
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