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Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
at microbeorganics.com Mr.MM gave that dosage to pre-activate the vermicompost

Yes this; To spill a small secret, I’ve been pre-feeding or pre-activating [vermi]compost which is not so fresh by mixing in a small amount of wheat bran (livestock store or bulk foods department grocery store) and moistening with very diluted black strap molasses, loosely covered with cloth or paper towel 24 hours ahead of brew. (approximate ratios, wheat bran 1:30 [vermi]compost & BSM 1:300 water).

This has, so far resulted in (most of the time) attaining the desired microbial population at 24 hours brew time rather than the usual 36 to 42 hours.

I hope you understand that the bran of 1 part is mixed with the vermicompost of 30 parts and then is just moistened with a spray bottle. The mix in the spray bottle is approximately 1 part black strap molasses and 300 parts water. I DO NOT use the whole spray bottle. As stated, I just moisten [wet a little] the mix and then cover.
 

crisduar

Member
I made a mistake in my post this morning.
You soak ashes to get potassium, not for phosphorus.


https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s40093-017-0182-6

When date palms get too high they cut them down. They’re too difficult to harvest. If the trunks are buried in sand, they break down almost like peat.
Mix in some aged manure.
Being by the ocean, they may have high salt and need to be buffered. I don’t know. Taste it. Or just soak it in a little calcium.

What can you get out of that ocean? Any fish waste? Seaweed?



Everywhere in the street there are thrown palm leaves it is very easy to get them and then it is a matter of turning said palm leaves into ashes, I would like to take advantage of the palm ash its potassium and its phosphorus and support it with wheat or oat bran, or chickpea flour or sunflower seeds are easy to get where I live and are rich in phosphorus, so I have balanced nutrition in bloom.

base floor:
-80% recycled land x total land
-20% earthworm humus x total land
-perlite
-Dolomite 1gr x 1L of land in each land recycling.

-Palm tree rods = K and P
and wheat or oat bran = P phosphorus support, would this be enough?

I have managed to get palm ash and wheat bran for phosphorus but I don't know how much to use per 50L of soil?
I have products such as neem flour and palm ash and rock dust Epson salts wheat bran horsetail flour wheat bran lentil flour, I wish I could do them without depending on fish hydrolyzate, seaweed flour, alfalfa, flour feather oysters etc ..... things that where I live are almost exotic, and here it is not grown in this way .....

algas marinas hay siempre a la orilla marrones rojas y amarillas en marea alta.

little by little I follow his councils and I am building my floor correctly

Thank you
 

crisduar

Member
Yes this; To spill a small secret, I’ve been pre-feeding or pre-activating [vermi]compost which is not so fresh by mixing in a small amount of wheat bran (livestock store or bulk foods department grocery store) and moistening with very diluted black strap molasses, loosely covered with cloth or paper towel 24 hours ahead of brew. (approximate ratios, wheat bran 1:30 [vermi]compost & BSM 1:300 water).

This has, so far resulted in (most of the time) attaining the desired microbial population at 24 hours brew time rather than the usual 36 to 42 hours.

I hope you understand that the bran of 1 part is mixed with the vermicompost of 30 parts and then is just moistened with a spray bottle. The mix in the spray bottle is approximately 1 part black strap molasses and 300 parts water. I DO NOT use the whole spray bottle. As stated, I just moisten [wet a little] the mix and then cover.


señor disculpe pero soy muy torpe con las proporciones 1:30 y 1:300

puede decirme para una cantidad de 250ml de lombricompost comolo haría? así aprendo esto que no terminó de comprender
 

crisduar

Member
/QUOTE]


I have tried to practice my vermicompost with bran and molasses at these proportions:
Water = 300ml dechlorinated or osmosis
vermicompost = 250ml
wheat bran = 8ml
Molasses = 1ml
I did it that way but I didn't succeed

I thank you confirm if your recipe is ok (1 of wheat bran: 30 of vermicompost / 1 of molasses: 300 of water [

Mr.MM is my preactivation correct for 250ml of vermicompost?

Thank you.
 

crisduar

Member
Wheat bran 16g protein/100g
16%

Protein /6 =~ nitrogen

~2.67% nitrogen



This says on a page in Spanish:
Wheat bran: The phosphorus provided by 100 grams of this food is 1013.0 mg

https://alimentos.org.es/alimentos-ricos-en-fosforo

With the% nutritional values ​​of the phosphorus example foods, it is possible to know how much to put into amendment this is the critical point of all this.

I have seen that the vast majority mix the amendments in equal parts and then put that mixture 1 / 2-2 cups per 30L of ground, I thought to put 125ml of ash and 125ml of wheat bran, but I would appreciate learning to add the amount of amendment according to its nutritional value.

Thank you.
 

crisduar

Member

h.h.

Active member
Veteran
This says on a page in Spanish:
Wheat bran: The phosphorus provided by 100 grams of this food is 1013.0 mg

https://alimentos.org.es/alimentos-ricos-en-fosforo

With the% nutritional values ​​of the phosphorus example foods, it is possible to know how much to put into amendment this is the critical point of all this.

I have seen that the vast majority mix the amendments in equal parts and then put that mixture 1 / 2-2 cups per 30L of ground, I thought to put 125ml of ash and 125ml of wheat bran, but I would appreciate learning to add the amount of amendment according to its nutritional value.

Thank you.
The phosphorus is ~1 gram in 100 or about 1%.

You can dissect an existing soil recipe. List the ingredients, figure the npk values of each then calculate the actual weight of each nutrient.
Figure the nutritional value of what you have, then figure how to combine them to come up with the same values. Use common sense and then take a good guess.
Keep in mind different amendments release different nutrients at different rates.
If using foodstuff, you can find the protein value. The protein value is calculated by multiplying nitrogen by a variable factor that centers at around 6. I work backwards by dividing the protein count by 6. That gets me close.

I also compare with like amendments. I figure bran meal around 2.67% nitrogen. Compare to soy meal at 7%. 7/2.67=2.62
The recommendation for soy meal is 2 to 4 tablespoons per gallon of soil. I need 2.67 times as much bran to equal the same nitrogen value.
 

Rico Swazi

Active member
I was told there would me no math, I've had one too many :bashhead: to be of any help.



spent the good part of the day yesterday turning and mixing 50# of alfalfa into the pile. Recent rain had it already heating up. The pile is on natures schedule now and will be monitored for moisture and heat and mixed every week or ten days (based on previous experience) and then let rest to mature for a year,

I know its ready when volunteers start growing

picture.php



My biomass supply has dwindled down to grass clipping and leaves from the neighbors immediately next door. The neighbor dumps the grass, I pitch the leaves over the fence,

picture.php


picture.php


the dandelion flower stems might not show very well
the pasture I get the grass from is for horses and has been pesticide and herbicide free for a good number of years.



picture.php




Haven't been able to get them to stop burning but I'm working on it
 

crisduar

Member
The phosphorus is ~1 gram in 100 or about 1%.

You can dissect an existing soil recipe. List the ingredients, figure the npk values of each then calculate the actual weight of each nutrient.
Figure the nutritional value of what you have, then figure how to combine them to come up with the same values. Use common sense and then take a good guess.
Keep in mind different amendments release different nutrients at different rates.
If using foodstuff, you can find the protein value. The protein value is calculated by multiplying nitrogen by a variable factor that centers at around 6. I work backwards by dividing the protein count by 6. That gets me close.

I also compare with like amendments. I figure bran meal around 2.67% nitrogen. Compare to soy meal at 7%. 7/2.67=2.62
The recommendation for soy meal is 2 to 4 tablespoons per gallon of soil. I need 2.67 times as much bran to equal the same nitrogen value.


I did not know how to express myself because I do not speak English, but it is one of the most important things I want to learn and this is how to adjust the amount of amendment according to the npk of each amendment, now I have doubts and thanks for your patience with me I am slow.

There are some maximum and minimum values ​​to adjust the npk in amendments, when you say it it sounds easy but I don't know how to do it.

Thank you.
 

crisduar

Member
I did not know how to express myself because I do not speak English, but it is one of the most important things I want to learn and this is how to adjust the amount of amendments according to the npk of each amendment, now I have doubts and thanks for your patience with me I am slow.

There are some maximum and minimum values ​​to adjust the npk in the amendments, when you say it it sounds easy but I don't know how to do it.

Thank you.
 

crisduar

Member
ahora mismo prepararé una tierra reciclada he hecho
1patte tierra reciclada
1parte lombricompost
1perlita

conseguí ceniza en una tienda de jardinería pero las próximas.as cenizas de palmera si las voy hacer en casa, y harina de neem

ven muy poco alimento para la tierra sólo ponoendo ceniza y humus para floración, polvo de roca volcánica y Dolomita ?

quisiera no depender de una receta si no aprender a encontrar los valores de NPK y de acuerdo a esto saber que cantidad de enmienda poner por litros de tierra preparada.

- La ceniza de palmera (0-1-30) 1L
la dosis dice 2tazas por 15L de tierra, que les parece está cantidad?
 

crisduar

Member
I was told there would me no math, I've had one too many :bashhead: to be of any help.



spent the good part of the day yesterday turning and mixing 50# of alfalfa into the pile. Recent rain had it already heating up. The pile is on natures schedule now and will be monitored for moisture and heat and mixed every week or ten days (based on previous experience) and then let rest to mature for a year,

I know its ready when volunteers start growing

View Image


My biomass supply has dwindled down to grass clipping and leaves from the neighbors immediately next door. The neighbor dumps the grass, I pitch the leaves over the fence,

View Image

View Image

the dandelion flower stems might not show very well
the pasture I get the grass from is for horses and has been pesticide and herbicide free for a good number of years.



View Image



Haven't been able to get them to stop burning but I'm working on it


gran trabajo mi espalda no me dejaria
 

crisduar

Member
The phosphorus is ~1 gram in 100 or about 1%.

You can dissect an existing soil recipe. List the ingredients, figure the npk values of each then calculate the actual weight of each nutrient.
Figure the nutritional value of what you have, then figure how to combine them to come up with the same values. Use common sense and then take a good guess.
Keep in mind different amendments release different nutrients at different rates.
If using foodstuff, you can find the protein value. The protein value is calculated by multiplying nitrogen by a variable factor that centers at around 6. I work backwards by dividing the protein count by 6. That gets me close.

I also compare with like amendments. I figure bran meal around 2.67% nitrogen. Compare to soy meal at 7%. 7/2.67=2.62
The recommendation for soy meal is 2 to 4 tablespoons per gallon of soil. I need 2.67 times as much bran to equal the same nitrogen value.

podría hacerme el favor de explicarme un poco más es que no entiendo como hacerlo sin saber niveles máximo que debe tener NPK para poder balancearlo, una vez más ud lo hacer parecer fácil.
 

Rico Swazi

Active member
gran trabajo mi espalda no me dejaria

thanks crisduar, I've been getting by on a weak mind and strong back for some time now , its not for everyone but works for me :biggrin:

a good reason why I go thru the trouble, pics taken minutes ago

picture.php


Friable leaf mold yumm!

this is all that is left after the worms worked it over

picture.php



the pile shown above started out as big as this new pile


picture.php
 

crisduar

Member
thanks crisduar, I've been getting by on a weak mind and strong back for some time now , its not for everyone but works for me :biggrin:

a good reason why I go thru the trouble, pics taken minutes ago

View Image

Friable leaf mold yumm!

this is all that is left after the worms worked it over

View Image


the pile shown above started out as big as this new pile


View Image



rescue worms of the vermicompost that he bought and now there are enough and I think it is time to learn to give them adequate food to result in a complete vermicompost of NPK and thus not be looking for amendments all in vermicompost.

there are some things that in two days I have learned with you that my head has exploded, I still have to assimilate bullshit and the test of faith .....
 

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h.h.

Active member
Veteran
I did not know how to express myself because I do not speak English, but it is one of the most important things I want to learn and this is how to adjust the amount of amendment according to the npk of each amendment, now I have doubts and thanks for your patience with me I am slow.

There are some maximum and minimum values ​​to adjust the npk in amendments, when you say it it sounds easy but I don't know how to do it.

Thank you.

I just make it up as I go.
Like throwing hand grenades
Close is good enough.
Too much is too much.
You can always correct deficiencies.

Too much will cook in your soil while you’re trying to grow.
Too many fine ingredients will plug up your soil.

Too much math. I wing it.
My last mix was just stuff I swept off the storeroom floor.
The plant decides what it wants.
I worry more about porosity. Aeration.
 

crisduar

Member
iré al supermercado por harina de soja para aportar fósforo a la tierra., para potasio cenizas de palmera, el nitrogeno corre por cuenta del lombricompost y los micro van en el polvo de roca volcánica y quería poner un a cucharada de cola de caballo que la hice polvo, por sílicio.

estoy bien o voy mal

Saludos
 
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