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Old 03-20-2011, 11:10 PM #11
justwatchin
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Wow Anti very nice idea. I think I might copy.

In regards to watering: not to sure your medium, but ive cut down the time I spent watering drastically by using perlite/coco 1:5 in small containers. I use modified version of the rezipe thats very strain dependent. I have 3 basins, 1 for all plants on micro/bloom, 1 for just bloom, and 1 for plain water. I place all plants in fill up 2/3 height of container so the container doesnt tip over (coco wicks up the rest) and wait ten min. Waiting ten min I dont get those super dry pots using the HPS and growth is allot faster. Then place to drain. I have a forth container for once a wk kb boost ferts. If a strain is extra thirsty during its mid flower stages I let sit in enough water for it to drink a day after i water. Letting it sit all the roots rush down to the bottom and there is no affect on growth, but i get to water every 2 days instead of every day. If there are more than one strain at different cycles I sit all of them in a basin with just pH'd water. Plant does not suffer and coco/perlite wicks up and hold water very well. and I can leav for a couple days without worry

One thing Ive found in using small containers is everything finishes a 1-2 wks earlier if ya boost them and flush at the right time. Its a really nice way to grow haze crosses, my 12 wker comes down to 9. no veg time and uses a hell of allot less nutes. (Allot less!)

As far as using CMH, are you using them for their UVB output or some other reason? I've used them and they arent all that great other than running a hell of allot cooler than HPS. They stretch the same and buds are a little less and a little more leafy.

For UVB output try looking into Xenon mercury short arc lamps. I'm gonna work with these next. Ive done some more experimenting and I've found a very noticeable (naked eye and head) output in trichomes by doing this: A little hard to explain, but hope you understand my wording

I have an 400HPS and an array of uvb CFB bulbs about 5" closer to tops.
I run an 11/13 on off sched, but 4.5 on HPS then off, uvb on at 4 then off at off at 8.5, HPS on at 8 then off at 11. So there is a half hour overlap at each end of UVB cycle, if you have a 15 min timer I would do it with 15. Ive noticed a very visible dramatic increase in trichs and no difference on yield or bud density doing this, and the area stays a bit cooler.

I would do a light mover too easy even coverage and adds length. Man, I would really like to see this come into reality Anti. Gd luck
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Old 03-21-2011, 04:54 AM #12
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OK> First tweak to design thanks to your suggestions!







Changes from yesterday's version:
  1. Extended the "arms" of the upper tier on the two end pieces to accomodate a total of 8 more plants, filling the gaps that were in the corners.
  2. Moved the bulbs so that they divide the grow into three equal segments. (Let me know if this was the recommendation DHF.)
  3. Added walls behind upper tier to help reflect useable light.
  4. Added a floor with cut-outs below lights for 10" fans. (Additional light-loss prevention.)

The only thing that scares me about this setup is that before I added 2 plants in each corner, I was at 96 plantlets. By filling those corner gaps, I bring plant count up to 104 - plus moms.
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:06 AM #13
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Wow Anti very nice idea. I think I might copy.
Awww shucks! Please post your pics if you do!

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As far as using CMH, are you using them for their UVB output or some other reason? I've used them and they arent all that great other than running a hell of allot cooler than HPS. They stretch the same and buds are a little less and a little more leafy.
The reason for the CMH is that I am currently a CFL grower and I like the idea of going to a bulb that will have a similarly balanced spectrum.

The nice thing about the CMH idea is that they run on HPS ballasts, so I can always get some HPS bulbs and run a cycle under HPS and compare the results at a later date.

I'm open to suggestions, however.

I have no reason other than what i've read here to choose any light over another. Freezerboy, for example, was growing with HPS for many years before he switched to CMH and he hasn't gone back to HPS after making the switch. Also Major Cottonmouth is currently rocking a 3x400w CMH vert grow and is getting promising results thus far.

I'm comfortable with my tiny plants, love the idea of sticking with straight-to-flower-from-clone plants and the containers I've grown to love. If I can keep my plants looking like my current (horizontal CFL) grow, I'll be ecstatic!

I'd prefer to keep my grow under 1000w for now to maintain stealth.

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I would do a light mover too easy even coverage and adds length. Man, I would really like to see this come into reality Anti. Gd luck
The light mover is an interesting suggestion. What does anyone else think of it?

Thank you for sharing!
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:18 AM #14
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You actually need to space the lights equally from the upper racks Bro....prolly just an oversight in your drawing....but....with 50 watts per sq ft , all the plants will be taken care of lumen wise as long as your walls , shelves , and ceilings are covered in reflectix.....

As far as plant numbers go.....I feel your pain , but mom plants are essential to feeding the beast for growing single cola budsicles with increased plant numbers , regardless of whether you`re growing 96 or 104...

If it`s the 100 plant rule , then yas might oughta rethink your intentions since the moms and cuts rooting for the next run would throw yas over anyways........

Regardless......I love yer art work cuz it`s a thing of beauty and would yield like a mofo with dialed strains and environment.....

Good luck....DHF.......
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:22 AM #15
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I noticed that you'd kept your plant count under 100, but prepping clones for the next run would put you over, in addition to your moms.

Instead of building four extra units that each hold two plants for filling in your corners, you could just make two more of your regular units that hold four plants each. Either way it's eight plants at each end, but it's simpler to assemble your whole stadium out of identical components, each one holding four plants.

I'm concerned about where the waste water draining from these pots will go. You mentioned the possibility of Blumats but a hundred of them? Seems there would be
little room for a blumat in a treepot anyway.

I just stuck a treepot into a 49oz soup can (tomato juice can size) to see if it would reach the bottom. It couldn't fit down all the way, but the treepot flexed to accommodate the round can. Since this design uses a horizontal board for the top, I think it would work out easier to cut round holes with a holesaw instead of sabresawing out square holes. At least my model of treepot would work just fine in a round hole.

Anti, you are really on to something with this modular micro stadium design of yours. It's awesome!
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:57 AM #16
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I admit I didn't read every post in the thread, if I asked a question somebody else already asked then feel free to ignore it.

1. Why go through all the trouble "hanging" the pots when you could easily just build the shelves at a lower height and sit the pots on top? edit: I see you're afraid the plants will tip over, wouldn't a lip in front of the pots be a lot easier?
2. Why not add 2 more units back to back in between the bulbs?
3. Will the outside walls be on hinges/casters so you can swing it open to allow better access?

I love this idea, definitely going to steal the design, but the scale/plant numbers will probably change.
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:06 AM #17
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1. Why go through all the trouble "hanging" the pots when you could easily just build the shelves at a lower height and sit the pots on top? edit: I see you're afraid the plants will tip over, wouldn't a lip in front of the pots be a lot easier?

These treepots are tall and narrow with small bases. They definitely need side support. They are usually kept packed together in large trays. 3 lb. soup cans would be very stable but aren't as tall.
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Old 03-21-2011, 02:34 PM #18
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I admit I didn't read every post in the thread, if I asked a question somebody else already asked then feel free to ignore it.

1. Why go through all the trouble "hanging" the pots when you could easily just build the shelves at a lower height and sit the pots on top? edit: I see you're afraid the plants will tip over, wouldn't a lip in front of the pots be a lot easier?
I was shooting for ease of construction. What I will probably do is do as DHF suggested and add in a bottom "shelf" to each unit so the plants rest on the shelf but are kept in place by the holes in the top "shelf".

Quote:
2. Why not add 2 more units back to back in between the bulbs?
Looking around at others in the VERT section, they all seem to be getting better results with the two bulbs sharing a rectangular space rather than two separate square spaces.

Quote:
3. Will the outside walls be on hinges/casters so you can swing it open to allow better access?
Haven't figured out exactly what I will do, but each of the 12-14 units will be a separate piece, and will either be on some kind of furniture pad or casters.

Quote:
I love this idea, definitely going to steal the design, but the scale/plant numbers will probably change.
Sweet! Post up some pics if you do.
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:44 PM #19
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I run 2 x 400 in a 6' x 2.5' space. Just like your talking about....just with 10 plants instead of 100. I'm not comfortable running #'s like that.

I think you will be very happy with what this setup can potentially produce. But, I think you'd be doing yourself a very big favor if you lower the count a bit. I'd definitely remove the corner plants. Based on your sketch, those will be far less productive imo. The overlap from the clones being so close will be counterproductive, imo. My guess is you'd get a better yield, with about 20 fewer plants. (everytime i lowered my count, yeild went up) At some point, increasing plant #'s will begin to hurt yeild. I think your already over that point. If the pics you showed were from CFL's you can bet that same strain will react different to more intense light. I'd guess they'll be bigger, and have more vegetation...causing some crowding. They will also grow forward towards the light. When the weight packs on, you'll need something to hold them back.

I also think your light spacing was better in the 1st sketch. I'd rather have the ends get direct light, and have the center share the overlapping light. In your 2nd sketch, your taking light away from the ends and giving more to the center. But, your room is 5" longer than mine, so you will have to manage a larger overlapping area.


Overall, I think you'd kick ass with this setup once you find a happy zone. I think that happy zone will be well over 2lbs.
Good luck. I'll be here to watch

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Old 03-22-2011, 12:11 AM #20
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Gotta respectfully disagree on the corner plants position Marlo , cuz it`s establishing a "fully developed" sideways canopy , and He`s runnin budsicles , not actual plants that could per chance grow into each other and potentially be counterproductive as you say.....

I also noted that the lights needta be centered more toward the upper outside shelves for better lumen coverage overall , but a light mover might just be the ticket to hit all those spots you`re concerned about Diesel Don.....

If there was a way to run the cordsets through 2 down rods for support from the light mover so they wouldn`t swing as they went backwards and forwards , it would prolly be to his advantage......

I`d loveta see 104-1/2 oz or bigger single colas in that setup ftw with the right dialed strains monocropped.....

Git `er done Anti......

Peace....DHF..........
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