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Something wicked this way comes

tilopa

Member
I'm also wondering the same as the above post. Just saw D9's post about giving coco chips-n-fiber a shot and that he uses a nutrient solution of 900 ppm @ 0.5 EC? I'm not sure what EC my Apera PPM meter is.. Should I be measuring 900 ppm with my meter? (Was always using 650-ish PPM before)
There are different standards for PPM measurement. Most meters have the 500 scale (.5 ppm) and the 700 scale (.7ppm). So, when you use your meter make sure you are referencing the 500 scale at 900ppm.
 

tilopa

Member
I'm not sure if this thread is dead, but I'm going to give it a try. Any of you PPK gurus out there please throw me a lifeline.

I'm trying D9s new medium prococo. I did as he instructed and broke up the block with 1900 ppm and 5.2 ph. However, instead of going straight into the ppk system, I went from clones to solo cups with the prococo and hand watered to start. My solution of Jack's was at 900 ppm and 5.8 ph. However (and this could be the source of my downfall) the water temp was on the very low side at about 55 F.

I also watered daily as that is far less than the every hour in a ppk system. But fairly early on the plants started showing signs of being over watered (I believe), leaves curling down and in. I did not correct this overwatering right away because I figured that could not be the issue as this stuff is pretty porous and airy.

Eventually I transplanted into those blue 2.5 quart pots D9 used to use for pre-veg. When transplanted, roots were definitely not very well developed, no signs of rot or anything, just very few roots.

I've since increased the water temp to 68 F, lowered the ppm to about 500, and decreased my watering frequency to when the pot was fairly dry. Most of the plants have bounced back pretty well, but even the once that are looking healthy have white tips, which I understand to be a sign of nute burn. But about 25% of the plants are still looking really poor.

I still have not hooked them up to the automatic drippers, but they are sitting in the ppk system with tail piece at a 4" gap.

Not sure how to fix this, any advice is appreciated. Last pic shows particularly nasty leaf signs, light green stripes, but this is only happening for one of the four stains. Also, forgot to mention that another symptom is that bottom leaves die, dry up and fall off.
 

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FCDobbs

Active member
Tilopa,
While I know nothing, I can say that water temp doesnt matter as the roots are not submerged in it. Good Luck.
 

tilopa

Member
Just thought I would follow up on my issue. Found out today the devastating news that I have Russet mites. These are apparently really nasty critters, bad damage and hard as hell to get rid of.
 

FCDobbs

Active member
Just thought I would follow up on my issue. Found out today the devastating news that I have Russet mites. These are apparently really nasty critters, bad damage and hard as hell to get rid of.


Oh man. Sorry to hear. Have you been able to find a solution yet?
 
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FCDobbs

Active member
If there are any old timers to PPK? Is Delta9 doing scrogs with this or is the pruning some other method? Lame question I know. Still I gotta ask.
 
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gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
Just thought I would follow up on my issue. Found out today the devastating news that I have Russet mites. These are apparently really nasty critters, bad damage and hard as hell to get rid of.


i was gonna say the third pick with the heavy yellow new growth, an the swollen interveinal look dead on for russet mites. looks like sulfur def


only way ive ever beat them is back down to small clones, go nuclear twice an mix with mpede an suffoil-x. mom the clones out an continue the mpede-sufoil atleast once a week.



Im sure ill catch some shit for saying this but when i mean nuclear i meant bifenthrine, or im not sure if kontos will kill them off, i forget. i make a dipping solution an dip the top side of the plants only. its important to note something like bifenthrine when watering into the medium it can stay around for a year in soil or medium. so by treating only the topside the half life of biphenthrine is much less, like 70 days. the half life is much less due to the toxin not binding with soil an its now exposed to oxygen.(not covered with soil or medium, exposed to oxygen is the key element). There are a few research papers on the old internet that show how long pesticides or herbicides stick around IN SOIL,once they are watered into the soil or medium they stay around for muchhhhh longer.



When the new growth emerges from THE CLONES any residual bifenthrine will become less an less. after that point those flowers hitting the bag it will be a solid 120-150+ days since any of that plant has seen a toxin. the plant from a clone to a mature flowered plant has expanded thousands of times reducing the original exposure.




then these original moms will be cleaned up an never flowered out, cuts will be taken an biphenthrine wont be used again. its important to clean all your equipment an pots an stakes an scissors etc. they will come back if your lazy. then the cycle starts all over again. mpede an suffoil-x is what i use on a bi-weekly ipm for any insect or spores. Once u get them eradicated by going nuclear, any new infestation will be dealt with from the dips


best of luck
 
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tilopa

Member
i was gonna say the third pick with the heavy yellow new growth, an the swollen interveinal look dead on for russet mites. looks like sulfur def


only way ive ever beat them is back down to small clones, go nuclear twice an mix with mpede an suffoil-x. mom the clones out an continue the mpede-sufoil atleast once a week.



Im sure ill catch some shit for saying this but when i mean nuclear i meant bifenthrine, or im not sure if kontos will kill them off, i forget. i make a dipping solution an dip the top side of the plants only. its important to note something like bifenthrine when watering into the medium it can stay around for a year in soil or medium. so by treating only the topside the half life of biphenthrine is much less, like 70 days. the half life is much less due to the toxin not binding with soil an its now exposed to oxygen.(not covered with soil or medium, exposed to oxygen is the key element). There are a few research papers on the old internet that show how long pesticides or herbicides stick around IN SOIL,once they are watered into the soil or medium they stay around for muchhhhh longer.



When the new growth emerges from THE CLONES any residual bifenthrine will become less an less. after that point those flowers hitting the bag it will be a solid 120-150+ days since any of that plant has seen a toxin. the plant from a clone to a mature flowered plant has expanded thousands of times reducing the original exposure.




then these original moms will be cleaned up an never flowered out, cuts will be taken an biphenthrine wont be used again. its important to clean all your equipment an pots an stakes an scissors etc. they will come back if your lazy. then the cycle starts all over again. mpede an suffoil-x is what i use on a bi-weekly ipm for any insect or spores. Once u get them eradicated by going nuclear, any new infestation will be dealt with from the dips


best of luck
Thanks. I've been doing a ton of research since I found out about them. Some university paper listed some effective pesticides including Avid, Pylon, and a few I haven't heard of. But they claim Forbid will also kill the eggs when others don't. Some people say they have killed them with sulfur spray, some with Avid and Floramite in rotation. Other with the Biologicals.

But I called a friend who I remember had russet mites a while back and ask what her experience was. She said she is still fighting with them, and she has reset her room and cleaned everything and they still come back. This scared the shit out of me.

So, I've decided to kill all plants and nuke the room and reset. I'm in my last week of flower so after harvest I can reset everything and only lose my veg plants. I just do not want to have to go through the kind of hell she is describing.
 

tilopa

Member
BTW - I'm trying to figure out how I got them because I did not take in clones or have anyone in my room. I was wondering if it is even possible to get them from the prococo? I know other people who do regular coco talk about pests, never hear russet though. Also, the prococo is a compressed block so I would think it would be harder for them to survive in that?
 

Snook

Still Learning
Veteran
I used regular coco (brand??) way back, compressed bricks too. It lasted only one run and then BANG... gnats! flying bugs everywhere.. first time ever. Went back to turface, not a bug since. I am getting tired of cleaning (washing) the turface between grows though and thought this coco might be the answer. Dont want bugs.
 

tilopa

Member
I used regular coco (brand??) way back, compressed bricks too. It lasted only one run and then BANG... gnats! flying bugs everywhere.. first time ever. Went back to turface, not a bug since. I am getting tired of cleaning (washing) the turface between grows though and thought this coco might be the answer. Dont want bugs.
Just to be clear, I'm not saying that I got the mites from the coco, I'm just wondering it that is where they might have come from. I don't know how they could have come in, no clones, no one else came into the room, and I have no plants outside.

F gnats are very common in soil, and pretty common in coco. But I've not yet heard anyone on the forums say they got anything nastier than that. But, I can't see why it wouldn't be possible.

I'm going to call the company and see what they have to say about it. Of course they will likely say their product does not have bugs even if they don't know for sure. But if they do a steam press process, which I'm not sure if all blocks are done like that, then that seems to me to be unlikely that mites could survive that. However, if gnats are surviving it then surely mites could.
 

Hookah79

Active member
Nice to see a resurgence of interest in the system, have long thought of it as the more reasonable
alternative to an undercurrent system.
It’s nearly impossible to get any info unless we dig for old grow journals in these forums,and some growers have resorted to other systems instead.
Wish that there were more info/grows doing this in a more plant counts just like current culture.
 

Gry

Well-known member
Was always a bit amazed that more did not go with it real time as it was being developed.
There were many years in which D9 was on hand to support it and respond to questions
or help with issues.
There was indeed some really nice documentation that was lost over time.
Some of the animated drawings and illustrations really worked for me as a means understanding the system.
Have gone though many of the threads over and over and felt like I found new value each time I did so.
I think of it as the most impressive means to grow that I have ever seen or used.
A PPK, took me from an inability to meet my own needs, to abundance more quickly than I
thought possible.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
Was always a bit amazed that more did not go with it real time as it was being developed.
There were many years in which D9 was on hand to support it and respond to questions
or help with issues.
There was indeed some really nice documentation that was lost over time.
Some of the animated drawings and illustrations really worked for me as a means understanding the system.
Have gone though many of the threads over and over and felt like I found new value each time I did so.
I think of it as the most impressive means to grow that I have ever seen or used.
A PPK, took me from an inability to meet my own needs, to abundance more quickly than I
thought possible.
with love, bro!
 

sublingual

Well-known member
Conclusion and summary of salient results editted in the first post would allow readers to avoid wading through off-topic posts. It's an idea that streamline the information.:)
 
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