how about a cement mixer?
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Washing machine extraction
- Thread starter Gtir
- Start date
how about a cement mixer?
No to denatured alcohol, you can't get rid of the agent.
Here's a a small spinner/dryer that should do to test out theories,
Panda 3200 rpm Portable Spin Dryer 110V/22lbs Stainless Steel (<$200)
https://www.amazon.com/Panda-Portab...8097473&sr=8-2&keywords=clothes+spinner+dryer
As I mentioned in the previous post, a thorough going over of the plumbing and wiring is in order before you use it with a flammable solvent. The top twists to turn the power on and off, and has a safety lock, you'd probably be best off to completely bypass both, and any other switches and cutoffs you might find while opening it up to make sure it has an induction motor or equivalent with no brushes sparking against a commutator.
"The height of internal drum is about 14 inches with a diameter of 8 inches"
First wash: Plop in a fine mesh filter bag packed tight with material. With the spigot capped off, fill with chilled solvent, release the spigot cap, when the flow slows plug it in, cap the spigot off, and remove the collection vessel.
Second wash: And then with a fresh collection vessel, refill with solvent, maybe dunk the bag a few times, uncap the spigot, when the flow slows plug it in, cap the spigot off, and remove the collection vessel.
Duda Diesel filter bag page,
https://www.dudadiesel.com/search.php?query=+filter++bag&i=filterbags
I personally would, at a distance from any solvent fumes plug the cord into a Variac (120V/20 ~$100) so I could dial up the speed, 3,200 rpm is as fast as my juicer, G'sss. You could try dialing down the speed with a cheap wall dimmer or blower motor controller etc., it's only 300 watts. The Variac is just so smooth brothers, once you've seen one make a powerful motor crawl like an ant, you'll understand, it's all about control.
Maybe for the first wash you might not run the spin speed up very high at all, and/or switch out the collection vessel when the flow of solvent turns too green. Being able to control the speed also may alleviate some out of balance situations you may encounter.
Here's a a small spinner/dryer that should do to test out theories,
Panda 3200 rpm Portable Spin Dryer 110V/22lbs Stainless Steel (<$200)
https://www.amazon.com/Panda-Portab...8097473&sr=8-2&keywords=clothes+spinner+dryer
As I mentioned in the previous post, a thorough going over of the plumbing and wiring is in order before you use it with a flammable solvent. The top twists to turn the power on and off, and has a safety lock, you'd probably be best off to completely bypass both, and any other switches and cutoffs you might find while opening it up to make sure it has an induction motor or equivalent with no brushes sparking against a commutator.
"The height of internal drum is about 14 inches with a diameter of 8 inches"
First wash: Plop in a fine mesh filter bag packed tight with material. With the spigot capped off, fill with chilled solvent, release the spigot cap, when the flow slows plug it in, cap the spigot off, and remove the collection vessel.
Second wash: And then with a fresh collection vessel, refill with solvent, maybe dunk the bag a few times, uncap the spigot, when the flow slows plug it in, cap the spigot off, and remove the collection vessel.
Duda Diesel filter bag page,
https://www.dudadiesel.com/search.php?query=+filter++bag&i=filterbags
I personally would, at a distance from any solvent fumes plug the cord into a Variac (120V/20 ~$100) so I could dial up the speed, 3,200 rpm is as fast as my juicer, G'sss. You could try dialing down the speed with a cheap wall dimmer or blower motor controller etc., it's only 300 watts. The Variac is just so smooth brothers, once you've seen one make a powerful motor crawl like an ant, you'll understand, it's all about control.
Maybe for the first wash you might not run the spin speed up very high at all, and/or switch out the collection vessel when the flow of solvent turns too green. Being able to control the speed also may alleviate some out of balance situations you may encounter.
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As previously mentioned, I would personally make a tumbler to get rid of large vegetative material so that processing the kief would be much easier and smaller amounts of solvent could be used. Now I have a decent question, would you consider running kief in a large rosin press? If you can do away with solvents and still get a large volume of oil with roughly the same return, why not? Safer, no need to buy solvents only need to buy bags, parchment etc. If you were to say get 30% return on tumbler that would be 60 lbs of crude farmers hash, press that for rosin, depending on quality and strain and reports, would you not look at getting anywhere around 50% return on the rosin from the crude farmers hash? 30 lbs of rosin would be 15% return overall, it would take longer sure but less solvents used is great if you ask me but everyone has their preferences.
^ If you have kief, dissolve it in one of the low boiling point solvents from the Solvent Polarity List in my ICMAG Signature. If you use a solvent that is also relatively non-toxic and sweet, small amounts of residual solvent fades as an issue.
Pure acetone is available inexpensively everywhere.
That said, ethyl formate is available to the public from Amazon, and it is divine.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethyl_formate
I did the research, purchased the solvents, and posted up as I went along in the thread I mentioned, if you do your own research I suggest the FDA USP <467> Residual Solvent Guide be your starting place. The relatively non-toxic Class 3's are much more acceptable than almost all the Class 2's when you start getting into it.
Besides no heat, the solvent can be passed through the finest micron filtering (2.5 micron works for me) compared to rosin's 25 micron filter bags.
Pure acetone is available inexpensively everywhere.
That said, ethyl formate is available to the public from Amazon, and it is divine.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethyl_formate
I did the research, purchased the solvents, and posted up as I went along in the thread I mentioned, if you do your own research I suggest the FDA USP <467> Residual Solvent Guide be your starting place. The relatively non-toxic Class 3's are much more acceptable than almost all the Class 2's when you start getting into it.
Besides no heat, the solvent can be passed through the finest micron filtering (2.5 micron works for me) compared to rosin's 25 micron filter bags.
But my material would be low grade Trim I don’t think I could pull it all off by keifing it
No to denatured alcohol, you can't get rid of the agent.
Here's a a small spinner/dryer that should do to test out theories,
Panda 3200 rpm Portable Spin Dryer 110V/22lbs Stainless Steel (<$200)
https://www.amazon.com/Panda-Portab...8097473&sr=8-2&keywords=clothes+spinner+dryer
As I mentioned in the previous post, a thorough going over of the plumbing and wiring is in order before you use it with a flammable solvent. The top twists to turn the power on and off, and has a safety lock, you'd probably be best off to completely bypass both, and any other switches and cutoffs you might find while opening it up to make sure it has an induction motor or equivalent with no brushes sparking against a commutator.
"The height of internal drum is about 14 inches with a diameter of 8 inches"
First wash: Plop in a fine mesh filter bag packed tight with material. With the spigot capped off, fill with chilled solvent, release the spigot cap, when the flow slows plug it in, cap the spigot off, and remove the collection vessel.
Second wash: And then with a fresh collection vessel, refill with solvent, maybe dunk the bag a few times, uncap the spigot, when the flow slows plug it in, cap the spigot off, and remove the collection vessel.
Duda Diesel filter bag page,
https://www.dudadiesel.com/search.php?query=+filter++bag&i=filterbags
I personally would, at a distance from any solvent fumes plug the cord into a Variac (120V/20 ~$100) so I could dial up the speed, 3,200 rpm is as fast as my juicer, G'sss. You could try dialing down the speed with a cheap wall dimmer or blower motor controller etc., it's only 300 watts. The Variac is just so smooth brothers, once you've seen one make a powerful motor crawl like an ant, you'll understand, it's all about control.
Maybe for the first wash you might not run the spin speed up very high at all, and/or switch out the collection vessel when the flow of solvent turns too green. Being able to control the speed also may alleviate some out of balance situations you may encounter.
What is the “agent”
I will buy the panda and report back.
These guys think I will be burned? But they don’t know I lube up w fire retardant gel for r and d
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol
Denatured alcohol, also called methylated spirits or denatured rectified spirit, is ethanol that has additives to make it poisonous, bad tasting, foul smelling or nauseating, to discourage recreational consumption. In some cases it is also dyed. Pyridine, methanol, or both can be added to make denatured alcohol poisonous, and denatonium can be added to make it bitter.
Denatured alcohol is used as a solvent and as fuel for alcohol burners and camping stoves. Because of the diversity of industrial uses for denatured alcohol, hundreds of additives and denaturing methods have been used. The main additive has traditionally been 10% methanol, giving rise to the term "methylated spirits". Other typical additives include isopropyl alcohol, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, and denatonium.
Denaturing alcohol does not chemically alter the ethanol molecule. Rather, the ethanol is mixed with other chemicals to form an undrinkable solution. For many of these solutions, there is no practical way to separate the components.
Uses
Denatured alcohol is used identically to ethanol itself except for applications that involve fuel, surgical and laboratory stock. Regular ethanol is required for food and beverage applications and certain chemical reactions where the denaturant would interfere. In molecular biology, denatured ethanol should not be used for precipitating nucleic acids.
Toxicity
Despite its poisonous content, denatured alcohol is sometimes consumed as a surrogate alcohol. This potentially can result in blindness or death if it contains methanol. For instance, during the American Prohibition, federal law required methanol in domestically-manufactured industrial alcohols. On Christmas Day, 1926, and the two following days, which was roughly at the midpoint of the "Great Experiment" of nationwide alcohol prohibition, 31 people in New York City alone died of methanol poisoning. To help prevent this, denatonium is often added to give the substance an extremely bitter flavor. Substances such as pyridine are added to give the mixture an unpleasant odor, and agents such as syrup of ipecac may also be included to induce emesis (vomiting).
New Zealand has removed methanol from its government-approved "methylated spirits" formulation.
Formulations
Different additives are used to make it difficult to use distillation or other simple processes to reverse the denaturation. Methanol is commonly used both because its boiling point is close to that of ethanol and because it is toxic. Another typical denaturant is pyridine. Often the denatured alcohol is dyed with methyl violet.
There are several grades of denatured alcohol, but in general the denaturants used are similar. As an example, the formulation for completely denatured alcohol, according to 2005 British regulations was as follows:
Completely denatured alcohol must be made in accordance with the following formulation: with every 90 parts by volume of alcohol mix 9.5 parts by volume of wood naphtha or a substitute and 0.5 parts by volume of crude pyridine, and to the resulting mixture add mineral naphtha (petroleum oil) in the proportion of 3.75 litres to every 1000 litres of the mixture and synthetic organic dyestuff (methyl violet) in the proportion of 1.5 grams to every 1000 litres of the mixture.
The European Union agreed in February 2013 to the mutual procedures for the complete denaturing of alcohol:
Per hectolitre (100 L) of absolute ethanol: 3 litres of isopropyl alcohol, 3 litres of methyl ethyl ketone and 1 gram denatonium benzoate.
Specially denatured alcohol
A specially denatured alcohol (SDA) is one of many types of denatured alcohol specified under the US Code of Federal Regulations Title 27 Section 21.151. A specially denatured alcohol is a combination of ethanol and another chemical, e.g. ethyl acetate in SDA 29, 35, and 35A, added to render the mixture unsuitable for drinking. Often an SDA is used in cosmetic products but can also be used in chemical manufacturing, pharmaceuticals, and solvents. Another example is SDA 40-B, which contains tert-butyl alcohol and denatonium benzoate, N.F.. The use of denatured, non-beverage suitable, alcohol in the USA avoids excise taxes on alcohol.
Denatured alcohol, also called methylated spirits or denatured rectified spirit, is ethanol that has additives to make it poisonous, bad tasting, foul smelling or nauseating, to discourage recreational consumption. In some cases it is also dyed. Pyridine, methanol, or both can be added to make denatured alcohol poisonous, and denatonium can be added to make it bitter.
Denatured alcohol is used as a solvent and as fuel for alcohol burners and camping stoves. Because of the diversity of industrial uses for denatured alcohol, hundreds of additives and denaturing methods have been used. The main additive has traditionally been 10% methanol, giving rise to the term "methylated spirits". Other typical additives include isopropyl alcohol, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, and denatonium.
Denaturing alcohol does not chemically alter the ethanol molecule. Rather, the ethanol is mixed with other chemicals to form an undrinkable solution. For many of these solutions, there is no practical way to separate the components.
Uses
Denatured alcohol is used identically to ethanol itself except for applications that involve fuel, surgical and laboratory stock. Regular ethanol is required for food and beverage applications and certain chemical reactions where the denaturant would interfere. In molecular biology, denatured ethanol should not be used for precipitating nucleic acids.
Toxicity
Despite its poisonous content, denatured alcohol is sometimes consumed as a surrogate alcohol. This potentially can result in blindness or death if it contains methanol. For instance, during the American Prohibition, federal law required methanol in domestically-manufactured industrial alcohols. On Christmas Day, 1926, and the two following days, which was roughly at the midpoint of the "Great Experiment" of nationwide alcohol prohibition, 31 people in New York City alone died of methanol poisoning. To help prevent this, denatonium is often added to give the substance an extremely bitter flavor. Substances such as pyridine are added to give the mixture an unpleasant odor, and agents such as syrup of ipecac may also be included to induce emesis (vomiting).
New Zealand has removed methanol from its government-approved "methylated spirits" formulation.
Formulations
Different additives are used to make it difficult to use distillation or other simple processes to reverse the denaturation. Methanol is commonly used both because its boiling point is close to that of ethanol and because it is toxic. Another typical denaturant is pyridine. Often the denatured alcohol is dyed with methyl violet.
There are several grades of denatured alcohol, but in general the denaturants used are similar. As an example, the formulation for completely denatured alcohol, according to 2005 British regulations was as follows:
Completely denatured alcohol must be made in accordance with the following formulation: with every 90 parts by volume of alcohol mix 9.5 parts by volume of wood naphtha or a substitute and 0.5 parts by volume of crude pyridine, and to the resulting mixture add mineral naphtha (petroleum oil) in the proportion of 3.75 litres to every 1000 litres of the mixture and synthetic organic dyestuff (methyl violet) in the proportion of 1.5 grams to every 1000 litres of the mixture.
The European Union agreed in February 2013 to the mutual procedures for the complete denaturing of alcohol:
Per hectolitre (100 L) of absolute ethanol: 3 litres of isopropyl alcohol, 3 litres of methyl ethyl ketone and 1 gram denatonium benzoate.
Specially denatured alcohol
A specially denatured alcohol (SDA) is one of many types of denatured alcohol specified under the US Code of Federal Regulations Title 27 Section 21.151. A specially denatured alcohol is a combination of ethanol and another chemical, e.g. ethyl acetate in SDA 29, 35, and 35A, added to render the mixture unsuitable for drinking. Often an SDA is used in cosmetic products but can also be used in chemical manufacturing, pharmaceuticals, and solvents. Another example is SDA 40-B, which contains tert-butyl alcohol and denatonium benzoate, N.F.. The use of denatured, non-beverage suitable, alcohol in the USA avoids excise taxes on alcohol.
If your material won't give you much kief, then it isn't worth putting a bunch of expensive solvent on it cause it isn't gonna give you anything. Low grade in low grade out...
Yeah I thought it just had methanol and iso as additive, would that cause I forseen issues to people processing the crude to distillate?
It certainly is worth processing low grade material, this is alchemy we are talking about not “fire in fire out”
If you are using alcohol as the first solvent, there is no crude only some form of shatter. Most people make distillate out of material processed with butane, co2 and propane, as this picks up much more "extra stuff" than ethanol. I do not see why anyone would make distillate after doing a proper alcohol extraction. It is a different process that yields a different product.
If all you want to do is make crude to sell to people that will be making distillate, than you are looking at the wrong tech with alcohol. You will have spend a lot more money to do this (butane, co2 or propane) safely.
If you are trying to do this on the cheap, then others have already pointed you in the right direction with pre-processing to kief, with dry ice or other means, and then using the least amount of solvent possible if you are using large quantities of low quality material. If not, you would have to have a large rotovap system to extract the gallons and gallons of solvent required in a timely and safe manner. If your starting material sucks that bad, then your solvent will be a huge portion of your costs.
If all you want to do is make crude to sell to people that will be making distillate, than you are looking at the wrong tech with alcohol. You will have spend a lot more money to do this (butane, co2 or propane) safely.
If you are trying to do this on the cheap, then others have already pointed you in the right direction with pre-processing to kief, with dry ice or other means, and then using the least amount of solvent possible if you are using large quantities of low quality material. If not, you would have to have a large rotovap system to extract the gallons and gallons of solvent required in a timely and safe manner. If your starting material sucks that bad, then your solvent will be a huge portion of your costs.
This is what the big commercial guys do. They buy very expensive equipment that let's them process very large quantities of shitty material to extract only the distillate. Some might use larf and lower quality nugs, or of course my favorite is the kief that comes from their machine trimmers that hack buds sold in dispensaries.
There is no alchemy when it comes to material that is exposed to chemicals, pesticides or mold/mildew/etc.. You will concentrate any of these further in your extract.
thats weird because I'm pretty sure their is a lot of tech for removing stuff and things
G `day G
Shit in -> shit out .
Low grade trim = low grade hash . Who will want to buy it ?
Thanks for sharin
EB .
It's not weird, and yes most things can be removed with boiling point isolation, chromatography and others, but it takes advanced understanding of chemistry, considerable time and expense, and a significant loss in yield to remove "stuff and things", that should never be there in the first place. Big companies also lab test (in theory with small samples) each batch of starting material and reject anything with these contaminants.
If you just selling to your buddy who will make the distillate (and likely not test or take the extra steps), I have no idea how ethical you are about selling a contaminated product for human consumption.
