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Old 02-21-2018, 04:34 AM #601
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Originally Posted by hamstring View Post
If possible its always better to use the native resources you have around you. Don't lug anything more than you have to.

Forest soil tends to have a very shallow fertile top soil. I am from the midwest I look for lowlands. The soil is so fertile it looks black gold. In these areas there is no need to water and lots of native vegetation to help with security.

If possible use google earth to look for small creeks or rivers. They will lead to these lowlands and they usually have good sun .

The great thing about google earth is the built in compass for finding southernly sun. The ruler allows you to check distances for parking, bike riding etc.
Ya ya. Google Earth is your friend. Make sure you use the timeline feature to see the area in all seasons. I also use it to discover hidden grow sites and clearings.
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Old 02-21-2018, 04:41 AM #602
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Anyone have success with using a diy promix? Last yr used bumper crop organic soil pretty exspensive though looking to cut it 30/50/20.
Soil peat moss perlite.
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Old 02-21-2018, 05:06 AM #603
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Anyone have success with using a diy promix? Last yr used bumper crop organic soil pretty exspensive though looking to cut it 30/50/20.
Soil peat moss perlite.
I use a mix put up by budrunner

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Old 02-21-2018, 02:47 PM #604
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So I have a couple questions.. as I grew up in a completely different area that was mostly desert, I feel like I'm out of place somewhat in the woods. I'm trying to look for rich soil spots by observing the ground vegetation. Is there a method people use for this our am I crazy and over thinking this? I'm assuming the better spots would be where medium sized bushes/ growth is concentrated. Is there any good resources on here to identify these areas or is it just guesswork without lab tests on the soil? Also what are some good ways to identify weak/ dying trees. I had two fall in a late storm last year and destroyed a couple plants, while I know it coulda been a freak accident I'm just trying to give myself a good chance of success this season and I'm trying to learn. Any help is much appreciated

Hey Dday... I have never once checked the pH of soil in any area I have grown in, in the last 16 years. But I do live in Kentucky and we are blessed with the perfect natural medium here. However I know that not everywhere is "perfect", just a figure of speech.

Anyway what I do, and recommend you do is simply add dolomite lime to your grow holes. Most farm supply, feed stores, hardware stores, you can get 50lb bags of dolomite lime for as little as 9 to 12 bucks. This will help stabilize and buffer your pH. Gypsum is another option as well, but I prefer the dolomite.

Throw that in and mix it up real good while you are prepping your grounds, at least a few weeks before you plant. I usually add a cup or two per hole depending on the size of the hole I am working with. Now This is very important on how much pro mix you add to your holes, the more pro mix or peat based medium you put into your holes, the more you have to water. In California and such this is good as you can grow in your back yard and you can water whenever you please... But in a guerilla grow, you want a loose medium but you don't want a dominant loose medium. I always throw water polymer crystals in my mix as well, I dont pre charge them because they pull the moisture from the soil quickly and fill up within a couple days. One trick I have learned in the past, and my particular method is do your amending and dig up your holes real well. Do the water polymers as your final step. Once you got the holes dug out and mixed real good lay your water crystals on top of the soil... Come back in a couple of days and you will find that the morning dew has completely charged them. Then turn your soil, and mix it real well. Works every time.

I always measure out about 5 gallons worth of pro-mix, throw in a contractor trash bag, and haul that to each hole I dig. I make sure a lot of it is mixed more so in the center area of the hole rather then the outside, if I am planting small plants. This helps give the roots a lighter mix to grow out into, which will give you a faster start in early veg. That is what you want... Once the plant starts putting on little size and the roots get well established, then it will grow on into the heavier "native"/pro-mix" part of the hole.

I also like to walk around and scoop up the top 2 inches of the rich top layer of composted leaves/twigs/grass etc and throw into my holes as well. I love finding places with old logs and fallen trees that have decomposed and leaves that rich, moist, black material beneath them. That is some good stuff. I like to break it down as much as possible, and leave chunks too as these hold moisture very well.

If you do a 30 to 40% promix to 70 to 60% native earth mix, you will never have to water your plants unless you just wanna supplement them. As long as you are getting a few rains here and there, they will survive.

As far as the tree a falling go, just plant on the opposite side of where the tree is leaning?
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Old 02-21-2018, 02:58 PM #605
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Hey MountainBudz, I grew in Northern Kentucky for a handful of years. Excellent climate for it, and lots of beautiful rolling hills to traverse. I don’t miss the ticks, but I definitely miss Kentucky.

Looking forward to seeing what you do this season!
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Old 02-21-2018, 03:00 PM #606
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By the way folks... This year I am gonna do a little experiment that might save me from hauling so many bales into the mountains and hollars...

I am gonna try amending with coco coir bricks as well. I known it will work, but I am gonna experiment just how "well" it works for myself personally..

I have found what may work for one, may or may not at all work for the other. Its all about skill ... Lol
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Old 02-21-2018, 03:08 PM #607
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Hey MountainBudz, I grew in Northern Kentucky for a handful of years. Excellent climate for it, and lots of beautiful rolling hills to traverse. I don’t miss the ticks, but I definitely miss Kentucky.

Looking forward to seeing what you do this season!
Howdy Kaskadian, welcome to the thread!

Yeah, I have been to a lot of places in my life, lived in California for a few years as well, but i was born and raised here. I have yet to find a better climate for growing marijuana. The only issue here, absolute only is the humidity in mid to late flower. In the past few years I have seen more bud rot then I ever imagined in my entire life. Not just me, but everyone around here...

I purchased a stupidly expensive product last year called Flint made by Bayer... Its works. The only spray it once and forget it formula, easy peasy thing that works. I have tried everything from organic to chemicals and nothing compare a to Flint.

I recommend it, just don't use it in late flower.

And yeah man the ticks are ridiculous... They are worse now than they ever have been. These mild winters are not doing any damage to them is the reason. That and just like any other organism, they are just over populating and brining new diseases along with them.

I got infected with Lyme from doing my line of work from a deer rock 2 years ago. Did not get prompt treatment and now I suffer with it and always will. But that doesn't keep me from pushing myself.

Where do you reside now? What state?
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Old 02-21-2018, 03:26 PM #608
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Originally Posted by MountainBudz View Post
Howdy Kaskadian, welcome to the thread!

Yeah, I have been to a lot of places in my life, lived in California for a few years as well, but i was born and raised here. I have yet to find a better climate for growing marijuana. The only issue here, absolute only is the humidity in mid to late flower. In the past few years I have seen more bud rot then I ever imagined in my entire life. Not just me, but everyone around here...

I purchased a stupidly expensive product last year called Flint made by Bayer... Its works. The only spray it once and forget it formula, easy peasy thing that works. I have tried everything from organic to chemicals and nothing compare a to Flint.

I recommend it, just don't use it in late flower.

And yeah man the ticks are ridiculous... They are worse now than they ever have been. These mild winters are not doing any damage to them is the reason. That and just like any other organism, they are just over populating and brining new diseases along with them.

I got infected with Lyme from doing my line of work from a deer rock 2 years ago. Did not get prompt treatment and now I suffer with it and always will. But that doesn't keep me from pushing myself.

Where do you reside now? What state?
Hey brother appreciate the advice regarding Flint — I’ll have to check that out.

I remember the humidity well! I lived near the Ohio river and remember those days in the high 90’s with 90%+ humidity. I also experienced some rot as well which I guess shouldn’t be surprising with humidity that high!

I was living back there in 2008/2009 when we had that monster ice storm. Just about every year I was there besides that was super mild and each summer I’d come out of the woods with dozens of ticks either already attached to me or crawling on my jeans. I hate those bastards... they’d find a way to latch on just walking through the grass!

I’m back home in my native state of Oregon now. I’ve been looking at moving back to ol’ Kentucky, I miss being able to live near the city but still own a nice chunk of land. Out here that’s a luxury that’s hard to afford unless you live in the middle of nowhere unfortunately. I had just shy of 20 acres outside of Louisville with a 20 minute commute to the city... definitely miss that. If it wasn’t for work I’d have never left in the first place.

Cheers bro!
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Old 02-21-2018, 05:18 PM #609
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hi people, thanks for the great thread! i've read it all and it's full of useful info. is Flint safe? i checked the details on amazon and it says "systemic for ornamental plants". is it safe to use on plants destined to human consumption? thanks
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Old 02-21-2018, 05:23 PM #610
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on the bayer site, it says "stop using 35 days before harvest on grapes, 28 days on rice, 14 days on apples, 3 days on melons, cucumbers etc"
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