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Old 05-20-2010, 05:14 AM #31
sublbc
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Floramite is the best and it is the only control I use for spider mites. I have not seen a mite in over 2 years since using Floramite. I can spray down my girls once right before 12/12 and I am good to go for 8 weeks.
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Old 05-21-2010, 05:34 PM #32
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So, I've been having some issues with my house plants from this certain type of mite. It is a bulb mite, of the genus Rhizoglyphus. I believe the borg first traveled on to my jade plant back at a previous house. Now every plant with dirt only have mites, and they breed like mad. My reading up on these fellas is pretty frightening. There are not many treatments proven effective, because they are some how through evolution or exposure, resistant to chemicals of nearly the highest application. They can survive without food for nearly 30 days and are proving to be a challenge more difficult to eradicate than the red spider mite.

Has anyone had experience with these in particular? There seems to be a predator mite for this particular strain of pest, but i don't want to go wasting money on more stuff. Also , the jade plant is about 20 years old and i would really like to keep the roots on it. Thanks!
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:37 AM #33
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hey br25...

Quoting what lazyman posted about floramite from the product label it does look like it would be worth giving a try since it does say bulb crops.
You can get it in a small bottle off ebay very inexpensive.

hth

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Originally Posted by Lazyman View Post
Hm, I switched to FLoramite a few years back and will never use anything else again. It's the only that works for 3 weeks and prevents infestation, and the only ovicide I could find. It is safe on tomatoes though, here's a clip right from their label:

FLORAMITE SC is a selective miticide for the control of a variety
of mite pests on the following plants:
• All ornamental plants, including bedding plants, flowering
plants, foliage plants, bulb crops, perennials, trees and
shrubs.
• All non-bearing fruit trees which will not bear fruit for a minimum
of 12 months.
• Greenhouse tomatoes, varieties greater than 1" in diameter
when mature.

I mix it with DM Penetrator to make it more systemic, only have to spray the tops of the leaves, and the whole plant becomes mite-proof.

I buy it off some Ebay guy, a couple oz at a time. Only take 1ml per gallon so it lasts a good while. Prepared sprays only good for 2 days though.
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Old 06-08-2010, 01:54 PM #34
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Greate info
thanks
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Old 06-15-2010, 03:44 AM #35
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Hi All

I posted my grow problems here but I'm curious what will help with these big ol flies that I think are eating my plants?
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Old 06-24-2010, 06:46 PM #36
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I would never spray a plant to be flowered, instead spray small mothers and then when clean cut them up into small clones. Dips work better then sprays and are safer to do. Use a mask and gloves and a spray suit if you are smart. I isolate and dip any new clone 3 times, a week apart with very small clones, to make it easy. FloraMite works, but be careful if you use it.


Here is what I use:

Phytoseluls persimilis PREVENT & CURE, they CRAWL
Target: MITES No good for short photoperiod. Use them a lot before darkening.
They stop eating hunting and eating prey under 12 hours of light.

Amblyseius Californicus PREVENT & CURE, they CRAWL
Target: MITES & THRIPS works at higher temps and lower humidity then Phytoseluls persimilis No diapause so effective at 12 hours light.

Macrolophus caliginosus PREVENT & CURE, they CRAWL
Target: Mites, Whiteflys, Aphids, Thrips

Feltiella acarisuga CURE ONLY, adults FLY/ larva SLITHER
Best against big populations of MITES, larva do the killing

Amblyseius cucumeris PREVENT & CURE, they CRAWL
Target: THRIPS & MITES (get without bran mites added for food)
No Diapause effective under 12 hours, good to use with Phytoseluls persimilis

Stethorus punctillum, Prevent & Cure, they CRAWL the young Larva eat eggs, the older larva eat eggs and mites, adults eat both at a lesser rate. A type of Lady Bug.
Target: MITES

Other effective predator mites include:

Phytoseiulus longipes

Amblyseius fallacis

Galendromus occidentalis


-SamS

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Old 07-23-2010, 03:45 AM #37
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does anyone not use high levels of co2 to kill mites? i have heard that if you crank it up to 10-20000ppm for a few hours it will kill all bugs in the room.

i was advised by someone who has a degree in botany and runs comercial greenhouses(not MJ) that co2 is the way to go.

he said the way they do it is 3 times a day for 3 hours each raise co2 to 10000ppm+ and keep it at those levels for 3 hours, and repeat this 3 times a day......repeat this process for 3 days, every other day.

what do you guys think about using co2 to kill mites?



for me filling up 100 lbs of co2 is easier than using sprays, and imo less harmfull than using sprays and less messy than using predators....
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Old 07-31-2010, 10:55 PM #38
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^yes apprantly that method also does wonders curing PM issues.
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Old 07-31-2010, 11:18 PM #39
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Does the product 'PURESpray Green' OMRI approved (Which is 98% petroleum oil) work at all? I keep seeing it the stores and was wondering. Does this break down the mite outer skele?

Also, In my OD I use this product, which I love! I mix it right into the soil in the early spring when I'm prepping with the rest of the goodies.




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Old 08-05-2010, 03:51 AM #40
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Anyone know if spidermites will survive in the sealed jar you put your bud in?

I'd like to know, because I'm in flowering and have spidermites on my plants. I've managed to keep them at bay by inspecting the leaves, wiping them and spraying them with water and sometimes alcohol. So I have no webbing or anything. So I'd like to know if once I harvest my bud and seal them in a jar, will it kill off any remaining mites on the bud? Or will I end up with eaten up, web encased buds in a jar?

Thanks.


Edit:
I think I have a good idea. I read that spidermites, like most living things cannot survive in a mostly Co2 environment. So perhaps I should get some canned Co2 and spray it in the jar and close it up quickly. Killing off anything living inside...
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