What's new
  • Please note members who been with us for more than 10 years have been upgraded to "Veteran" status and will receive exclusive benefits. If you wish to find out more about this or support IcMag and get same benefits, check this thread here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

Living organic soil from start through recycling CONTINUED...

JuiceDaLeaves

New member
Awesome, thanks again C-C! Helps so much, puts my mind at ease too..

Next watering I am going to start adding just a tiny bit of the Dandelion FPE to the res and do that every watering.. I guess it will get stronger (and stinkier) as I go

Excited.
 

3rdEye

Alchemical Botanist
Veteran
Great to see this thread up and going. Excellent to see these ideas being put into action. I'm using the bocking cultivar, regular comfrey, nettles, lavender, dandelion, purslane, alfalfa, kelp and some other random plants for mulch and FPEs. Some people really don't like the smell of some of the FPE's, but i'm ok with them. Some of them are pretty darn strong smelling though. :D

thanks to all the contributors again. One step at a time we help each other.
 

Swayze

Member
Very excited about my newest addition, blumats.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=44975&pictureid=1153501

20 gallon smart pot and all the branches are from 2 clones that have been trained quite a bit; topping, burying during transplants, and they were in a scrog screen until a couple weeks ago when i upgraded to a tent.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    114.4 KB · Views: 30

yortbogey

To Have More ... Desire Less
Veteran
Soil Perfector®
Successful plantings require a soil structure consisting of approximately 50% solids, 25% pore space for air, and 25% pore space for moisture. While this may be common in undisturbed forest areas, it is not the general rule for homeowners today, whose topsoil has often been stripped away.

Many homeowners have heavy clay soils, which lack adequate pore space for air and can lead to poor drainage, reduced root growth, and greater susceptibility to environmental stress. Others have dry sandy soils, which lack adequate pore space for water which can lead to excessive drainage, as well as a loss of nutrients from the root zone.
All natural soil conditioner.
Permanently improves clay and sandy soils.
Add to all potting mixes and soils.
Prevents compaction and promotes root growth.
One time application. Won’t break down.
In 27 lb. bags.

picture.php
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
That's the "perma-till" dank_frank likes; I'm needing to go visit my local gro-shop cause they should have a bag of it for me {asked them to order it}
 

bigshrimp

Active member
Veteran
I just picked up a couple bags yesterday after hearing DF talking about it and doing some research. This stuff will not break down in out lifetime - near infinite reuse. Other than that no other spectacular qualities.

Its a little expensive for me to be using in my mix, but am going to use it to make a more durable mom mix.

Speaking of does anyone make custom mom mixes? I could use some advice on how to amend for long term fertility.
 

Midgar06

Member
I just want to say thanks to everyone who has helped provide all this great information. Truly an inspiration and has changed how I look at my garden. Definitely making some changes to take advantage of all that living soil has to offer.:tiphat:
 

Seaf0ur

Pagan Extremist
Veteran
Since the soil perfecter is just a baked clay that is extremely porous..... for those that use it, does it float? floating is the primary reason I personally could never use perlite and vermiculite retains water a bit much. I use crushed red lava rock and rice hulls but variety is the spice of life, I would like to hear from someone who uses this product to see if it would be a fit for my mix.
 

bigshrimp

Active member
Veteran
I doesn't float, i have some in a mix. The generic name for the mineral is haydite, which could be clay, slate, or shale. I believe the soil perfector is expanded slate.

Its not going to add much as far as CEC and CCE but it has decent water and air holding capacity.
 

Seaf0ur

Pagan Extremist
Veteran
Sounds like something I'd be looking into in the next re-amend.... Appreciate the quick response
 

JuiceDaLeaves

New member
Has anyone tried making a herbal infusion and letting it cool and feeding that to their plants?

I've been making Red Clover Tinctures for health reasons the past while and I just read that alcohol isn't so great at extracting the minerals from the plant and that I should think about making herbal infusions to consume....

So basically all it is, is I take an ounce of dry plant matter and pour a quart of boiling water over it in a quart sized jar. Let it sit with the jar lid on for the night and then consume it.

I was thinking this morning as I was drinking it that this would probably be a good way to make a quick nutrient tea?

Does anyone know what problems I might run into having heated up the plant material? I am sure that some minerals or vitamins, enzymes, something will be lost?

I have a BUNCH of red clover and thought I should find out the best way to put it to use.

Lately I've just made a FPE with it as well as adding the dry plant matter to my compost teas...

Hopefully someone has some insight into what problems and benefits I will come across feeding my plants this herbal infusion - If not I will report my findings once I try it within the week

Thanks in advance!
 

moutaingrown

New member
I've read all 526 pages of the this thread and the new 7 and I was absolutely amazed at the information on organics, but my I have a question, where is XXX, XXX, and all the other guys from the other part of this?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
making herbal infusions to consume....

clover makes an excellent addition to the compost pile

anyway though; if you want to use it in your garden as an infusion, it makes more sense to do a cool infusion {around 75*} because you don't want to destroy any microbiology or enzymes

a hot infusion makes more sense if you want to ingest it

with an FPE, you get the base nutes and not the long chain benefits so, it's more like chem nutes but; you know it's an organic source
 

bigshrimp

Active member
Veteran
clover makes an excellent addition to the compost pile

anyway though; if you want to use it in your garden as an infusion, it makes more sense to do a cool infusion {around 75*} because you don't want to destroy any microbiology or enzymes

a hot infusion makes more sense if you want to ingest it

with an FPE, you get the base nutes and not the long chain benefits so, it's more like chem nutes but; you know it's an organic source

Is that your preferred temp across the board for 'infusions'? - whatever we are calling them.
 

JuiceDaLeaves

New member
Cold infusion. I like it! Think i'll do a few side by side experiments, see if I can notice any immediate/long term differences. Thanks for the reply
 

Seaf0ur

Pagan Extremist
Veteran
Selecting plants for infusion.... you may think of checking:

Phytochemical and Ethnobotanical Databases - Plant choices
-This page allows the user to query the database for phytochemicals in one or several chosen plants. These plants can be chosen via scrollbar or entering the first several letters of the name.

and

Phytochemical and Ethnobotanical Databases - High-Low Chemical query
-This query displays either a HI-LOW or just a list of plants containing a particular chemical. So, search silica.... it gives you plants containing silica in order of highest to lowest in PPM....

Helpful for everything from the compost heap... worm bin... all the way to teas and infusions....
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top