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Plant is dying

Muarco

Well-known member
Veteran
It started by yellowing the bottom leaves and now the whole plant looks like it's about to die. The soil feels soaked and the plant is not taking up water anymore.


What's happening to her?
 

Muarco

Well-known member
Veteran
What soil or medium is it growing in? Are there drainage holes in the container?

The soil is some generic gardening soil, I know was not wise and I'm considering transplant into a pot with better soil but I don't know if it's the right timing. There are drainage holes under the pot.
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
The soil is some generic gardening soil, I know was not wise and I'm considering transplant into a pot with better soil but I don't know if it's the right timing. There are drainage holes under the pot.
I think it is mildew.

- There is some blackish/blue residue or mold on the medium
- The dried up leaf in the back looks like it would have a lot of mildew spores on it under a microscope
- The white rings on the front leaf.

What I would do is chuck the whole thing out, clean the containers with bleach, and start anew with coco coir from Canna, Plagron or Biobizz.

- Put a perlite or hydroton drainage layer just high enough to cover the drainage holes
- From seed to mid-flower, feed with BioSevia (or Canna) flowering food at 0.4 EC, plus epsom salt at 0.1 EC and some trace elements. When the plant is in heavy flowering, feed with grow food (0.6 EC) and epsom salt; at this time, high nitrogen helps the flowers to grow and the potassium helps with forming bud's branches; at this stage also extra non-mobile nutrients Ca, S, Si and trace elements are required for extra cell growth.
- Growing organically, don't pH the tapwater, especially if it's naturally high in pH already.
- bottom water with clean tapwater only; let the tapwater stand next to the plants for at least an hour, a day is better, so the water and plants the same temperature and to let some of the chlorine evaporate.
- only feed again when the plant shows a sign of nutrient deficiency, if the bottom leaves and grow tips are in good shape and growing, don't feed.

This will prevent any under/over feeding and under/over watering.

Plants with cannabis' root system need a constant supply of moisture in the soil, and bottom watering or a water reservoir in the pot is the best way to supply that. And cannabis needs a lot of water throughout flowering too. It is only when the calyx hairs turn brown that the plant starts to attract more moisture from the air than it can evaporate, and at that time it requires a completely dry medium.

There is still plenty of daylight left for a grow this year. I've planted autos outdoors as late as late July.
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
Looks like too much food and not enough air/oxygen at the roots.

When i have trouble i give the a shower. Literally. Put it in the shower or sit outside with a hose and rinse the shit out of that pot. Gently. Let it run off for 15 minutes. If your soil is tight, get a small bag of potting mix and mix it 50/50 with perlite.

A good flush usually brings mine back.
 

therevverend

Well-known member
Veteran
I agree with the other posters. Too much organic matter in the soil, not enough perlite. The water sits there and rots the manure in the dirt. This happened to me this year, I bought the local organic nursery soil. It stank of manure and tree bark which should have tipped me off. If I'd added a ton of perlite it might have been okay but I was almost out. Check out my plant:

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She was a healthy vigorous plant a couple days earlier. I culled her a couple days later, just too fucked up. Here's another one that wasn't quite as bad, didn't lose the plant.

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When I re-pot there aren't any roots grown into the toxic soil, the root bundle is the same as when it was transplanted. The soil smells shitty, bacteria rich soil. We want fungal soil. I re-potted and tranplanted some and also left a few of the better ones to weather it, over time the soil dried out and the organic matter starts breaking down. Now they've made a full recovery with new growth starting. Took 10-14 days. They'll look bad, drop some fan leaves then rebound. All that organic matter becomes your friend once the plant can handle it.

This happens sometimes when you transplant a small plant into a big pot, then water it and keep watering after it gets sick. Something to watch out for waterlogged plants die as fast as thirsty plants.
 

hush

Señor Member
Veteran
Classic example of overwatering. I agree with the others.. transplant into a better-draining, higher-porosity soil. Cannabis does not like wet feet. Not even tropical varieties.
 

Muarco

Well-known member
Veteran
So I currently took the plant out of the old pot and repotted in a bigger pot with BioBizz Pre fertilized Soil. I didn't want to scroll off the old soil as the plant was already quite traumatized. Previous to doing this I flushed the soil with 6.4 pH corrected water and let it dry off with some newspaper on the bottom.
I left the plant in a area where it doesn't receive too much sunlight. I hope I proceeded in the best way as possible to save this plant. I'm usually against killing plants and keeping her outside doesn't cost me anything.
I guess it's only up to wait. If there is any way to make the soil dry faster just post it.

P.S.: when I repotted there was no sign of mildew or rotting and the roots had already reached the bottom :tiphat:
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
The closeup of the front leaf on the right shows the typical ring of mildew. The yellowing tip shows the part of the leaf that is already affected.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=80582&pictureid=1955165

Also, the soil seems very dry. When the soil dries, the nutrient concentration rises as well, so keep the moisture level even and relatively constant destresses the plant.

I hope it works out. However my intuition is that transplanting this plant into fertilized soil isn't going to make it better.

So you could still use a dual strategy - see how this plant works out, and follow my earlier advice - which will give you a very trouble free grow.
 
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Muarco

Well-known member
Veteran
The closeup of the front leaf on the right shows the typical ring of mildew. The yellowing tip shows the part of the leaf that is already affected.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=80582&pictureid=1955165

Also, the soil seems very dry. When the soil dries, the nutrient concentration rises as well, so keep the moisture level even and relatively constant destresses the plant.

I hope it works out. However my intuition is that transplanting this plant into fertilized soil isn't going to make it better.

So you could still use a dual strategy - see how this plant works out, and follow my earlier advice - which will give you a very trouble free grow.

Hi Tanzanian, I believe the white residues you're taking for mildew are chlorine residues caused by my nebulizing the leaves with some water that had still some chlorine in it. The pot was very heavy due to the water in it. It's definitely overwatering but I hope there isn't something else under the surface.
The yellowing could have been cause by the excess of water that blocked the intake or Nitrogen. There is also some discoloration happening on the leaves and that's actually what I can't recognize...
I'm posting more photos of her as of today.
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A big thank you to everyone that it's been commenting and sharing their knowledge in a try to save this lady. Thanks a lot!
 

Muarco

Well-known member
Veteran
I proceeded to cut some of the lower foliage to ease up the stress on the roots. Moved the plant to a zone with indirect light. Let's hope she recovers.

Here some close ups of the leaves I cut.
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I still believe the white spots to be chlorine or some water residues since they don't have a porous/fluffy look. Although the leaves definitely look like suffering of something...:thinking:
 

Lost in a SOG

GrassSnakeGenetics
I should have qualified, imo, you should have scraped as much of the old soil away from around the roots before repotting with premoistened soil then not watered for a week or so. Roots can recover fairly quickly given the right conditions again and that old soil will probably continue affecting its development right through its life.

What soil did you originally pot it in? Looks Like that council recycled stuff. Poor girl looks like nitrite toxicity or something.

The white water lines on the leaves look like deposited salts from foliar feeding?
 

Muarco

Well-known member
Veteran
I should have qualified, imo, you should have scraped as much of the old soil away from around the roots before repotting with premoistened soil then not watered for a week or so. Roots can recover fairly quickly given the right conditions again and that old soil will probably continue affecting its development right through its life.

What soil did you originally pot it in? Looks Like that council recycled stuff. Poor girl looks like nitrite toxicity or something.

The white water lines on the leaves look like deposited salts from foliar feeding?

Was some soils I had laying around on the balcony. Was definitely not the right move. I just hope the roots will grow through the old soil and reach and prosper in the new fertilised soil. I actually left the soil dry so that it can soak some water from the old soil.
 

Lost in a SOG

GrassSnakeGenetics
Hmm okay i think you're doing the opposite of what i would do..

For one thing the ec goes up as the moisture goes down so you are encouraging unbalanced soil to be more toxic to the plant by drying it out more and its probably absorbing more salts from the new soil.. that would be my thought process.. i personally would pull it up shake as much old soil away carefully repot into new and wait.

This sort of lock out can also be, is usually, pH related.

Actually sorry to say i would definitely kill it and start something new. :2cents:
 
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