Kozmo's World

Flushing didn't work because that's not burn, burn is when the tips of the leaves are effected not the entire leaf as a whole. This looks like calcium deficiency, what's your soil mix made up of?


p.s. flushing in soil is illogical - one of the biggest misconceptions of the canna community due to the use of petrochemical feeding regimens taking over the industry

Kozmo said:

Mg, P, or K... lol Beats the shit out of me. What I realy think is it's the soil. Either not cooked long enough or not balanced right. So what I'm going to do is feed with Watering
-1/4 cup coconut water
-1/4 tsp Aloe Vera powder
-5 ml Agsil16H

Click to expand...

I wish it were that easy mate, but to be honest you'd be better off starting over and in a balanced mix. That next run will catch up and surpass this one if you carried both of them on. With calcium deficiencies you see slowed growth, and even stunted growth that will almost stop growing entirely. It's not so simple to fix this problem... and IMO it's better to start over as soon as you can to make up for lost time brother. It's a good lesson to learn early on though, before you run into this problem after expanding and wasting more resources/money.

Until we really know how the entire soil system works (microorganisms/nutrient cycling/soil balance/soil harmony) we're just taking stabs at it in the dark as to what will magically fix this problem. I know it sounds harsh but constructive criticism is what you need right now instead of growers telling you to "flush" like youre in a soilless mix or something like that. Start over with a balanced mix that is mixed up, moistened, and composted (or "cooked") for 2-3 weeks and then it's GO time. If you do this you'll have 10x more success compared to trying to re-diagnose each problem that arises from a malnourished soil mix. You see, when there isn't balance or symbiosis in the soil - the entire system functions improperly. Without a functioning system, we may as well be running hydro and feeding with chemical nutrients since we're already trying to play God here. The trick is to bio mimic as much as possible with soil, and let the microorganisms do all the work that nature intends for them to do. After all, nobody is going out in the middle of the night to fertilize the National Forests - yet they're thriving in perfect harmony! With that being said, we must do our best to provide what that forest is able to provide for it's plants - and then step off and let the magic happen. This includes mixing everything into your soil from the GET-GO, then watering with water or better yet - the recipe that you just posted above (that I use as well). Do this and my friend I promise that you will thank me.

What's better, suffering trying to fix a problem that can't be fixed and harvesting sub-par quality/yield? Or waiting 3 weeks and starting over with fast growing, healthy/vigorous plants that will yield 3x more than these will? You do the math

ladyluckybean said:

I resorted to bottles to finish this grow. I got a recipe from a grower who grows huge amounts using ffof and hf 50/50 then biobizz scheduled nutes. He vegged one plant in a month to fill a 4x4 screen. Using a guano/kelp recipe for another trying no bottles and it should be okay as I've vegged in it before for 4 months no issues. I heard all the stuff about guanos and sustainability and made a soil using a recipe with amendments like fish bone meal, etc and I had issues with stuff being available. Try using immediately available amendments like alfalfa or guanos to fix your mix or get a bottle like Fish-Mix, bio bloom, topamax and make a compost tea with EWC weekly. That really helped a lot for my poor soil recipe. I'm using it to cut my ffof instead of happy frog.

Click to expand...

I like your style ladyluckybean, but I noticed you're using bagged soil and while that's perfectly fine - you could be saving money while improving quality with just a few DIY methods instead.

Instead of buying bagged FFOF try sourcing some peat moss bales locally, along with quality compost, and either pumice/rice hulls/lava rock for aeration.



Base Mix:

Mix Peat, Compost, and your choice of aeration at equal parts (1:1:1) along with:

2 cups oyster shell powder
1/2 cup kelp meal
1/2 cup crab meal

(per cubic foot / 7.5 gallons of soil)



^This mix will out-perform the Fox Farm by far (I've ran side by sides) and you'll be able to mix up 3x as much soil for the same exact price as you would Fox Farm. The kelp meal will last longer than the Fox Farm amendments and will carry plants well into veg, especially with the teas you mention. I veg with this mix and then flip to flower in a "hotter" mix. FFOF also contains perlite, which doesn't harbor microorganisms and acts as "dead space" in the mix. This is why organic growers tend to stick with rice hulls/pumice/lava rock - it contains surface area for beneficials to camp out and thrive in.



I grew the following plants in a balanced soil mix and had the most success I've had in 10 years, so you can understand why I try to push this style on most growers. It's so easy too, anyone can achieve these results:




^These are all being grown in this mix:

http://buildasoil.com/products/the-clackamas-kit

Which includes the same base as the Base Mix I posted above, minus the additional kelp/oyster shell/crab shell amendments. So equal parts peat/pumice/compost with this nutrient kit mixed in. That's it. Everyone can have these results, it just takes faith in the recipe and a little TLC

Thank you guys. I have started over my friend. My new mix is about at the four week mark. It's not my final soil mix I'm going to settle with but it's a second attempt. The first attempt... Ha, lets just say it was a lesson in taking notes. I mixed what I had on hand and didn't look back. We'll see what this next one brings. The late veg flower mix goes like the
Estimated:
1 cf of local activated organic compost
1/2 cf EWC
1/2 cf vermiculite
3/4 cf chunky perlite
1/2 cf peat
1/4 hydroton

3 cups each of:
Kelp
Fish bone meal
Crab shell
Soft rock phosphate
Azomite
Dolomite lime
Greensand
Gypsum
Dried leaf comfrey

I just got 2 gal. Packed full of red wigglers to add to the soil I'm currently cooking. They should bring balance to the "force"(sorry couldn't help myself). No but seriously I think it might work.

Livn N learnin

Thanks for the support guy/gal

I'm familiar with buildasoil, tlo, etc. I built a soil using olyfish compost, EWC, expanded shale, Hydroton, and perlite with peat and happy frog. Then I added fertilizer with marine based amendments that worked out to 2-4-3-13-2-1 n,p,k,Ca,Mg,s rock dusts and micronutrients. Nothing was available for 2 months that I used it so I got some bottled organic nutes. Biobizz isn't like pure blend pro. It's just sugar beet vinasse, fish tank water, kelp. Sure is cheaper than having around 2 cubic yards of soil that doesn't work. I'm using the bad soil to cut the ocean forest. I'm just using the bottles as a crutch till I can have success using my water only/teas. I was just thinking he could get a few bottles to finish thîs grow and reammend the soil to fix what was wrong. I think mine needs more Mg and nitrogen. The phosphorus from fish bone meal and srp is not available.

LLB, I love having you around girl! How are those pot sox holding up?

My smarties? They're ok I guess but I love GroPro brand caused the edges are reinforced and don't get stretchy like Smartpots. The big beds are really cheap too. I'm using one now to make leaf mold

Oh! My socks. They're great! The ankle parts are a lîttle snug and I don't normally have that problem. I love wearing them around.

Lol, yes those awesome sox!

The answer to the winners of the ugliest plants on IC contest is... I amended the soil(not appropriately might I add) and put early veg plants in it. The Composted soil, peat moss, and chunky perlite mix would have done them plenty of justice. Lesson learned. Thank you for your support.

I added the worms today to my soil mix. Along with that I moistened it with the ACT from KIS. Since I had my tea brewed I amended(would that be the right way to put it?) a one gallon early veg pot for my single feminized PCK. The mix was: 1 part my favorite local organic compost, 1/2 part EWC, 1 part peat, 1 part chunky perlite, and 1/2 part vermiculite.

PCK

PCK

Today I transplanted my cute little cRooked leafed girl from her biodegradable starter pot to a one gallon. Saying it went well just wouldn't seem to do it for me. It was CrAzEE! The roots were just cling, trying to dig through this poor little starter cup. Roots were jutted off to the sides. It was like a hungry octopus down there. Can you say BioAg?
I put some hydroton in the bottom of the pot for drainage. Covered the top with it as well to prevent soil displacement during waterings and to help with keeping the moisture in. For the hell of it I through in a tablespoon or so of the red wigglers I had on hand.
Have to say it again; those roots were surprising!

You removed them from the biodegradable container? Isn't it supposed to degrade to avoid transplant shock.

No, digging through that container is to much unnecessary work for our little PCK.

ladyluckybean said:

I'm familiar with buildasoil, tlo, etc. I built a soil using olyfish compost, EWC, expanded shale, Hydroton, and perlite with peat and happy frog. Then I added fertilizer with marine based amendments that worked out to 2-4-3-13-2-1 n,p,k,Ca,Mg,s rock dusts and micronutrients. Nothing was available for 2 months that I used it so I got some bottled organic nutes. Biobizz isn't like pure blend pro. It's just sugar beet vinasse, fish tank water, kelp. Sure is cheaper than having around 2 cubic yards of soil that doesn't work. I'm using the bad soil to cut the ocean forest. I'm just using the bottles as a crutch till I can have success using my water only/teas. I was just thinking he could get a few bottles to finish thîs grow and reammend the soil to fix what was wrong. I think mine needs more Mg and nitrogen. The phosphorus from fish bone meal and srp is not available.

Click to expand...

Yeah I hear you, the problem was that the soil never composted down enough to make those nutrients available. They're still in the soil, so watering with tea then letting it finish cooking would make that mix amazing I'll bet. Not sure if the bottles did anything to throw it off though, you may wanna get a $25 soil test after cooking it to see what stuck around and what didn't. Then you could re-use this mix every time and never have to buy new soil until you expand, now that's cheap.

Kozmo said:

No, digging through that container is to much unnecessary work for our little PCK.

Click to expand...

Good call, those containers are more for outdoor plants that can handle the thickness of the material and penetrate it no problem. Not something you'd ever want to put a seedling through, that's like asking a 5 yr old to shovel the driveway; it'll get done but they'll be so beat afterwards due to that kind of work load.


Lovin the upgrades you did here bro, these are going to take off! Those worms will help break down living material and cycle nutrients, can't wait to see how much better these girls do. Respect!

Kozmo said:

Thank you guys. I have started over my friend. My new mix is about at the four week mark. It's not my final soil mix I'm going to settle with but it's a second attempt. The first attempt... Ha, lets just say it was a lesson in taking notes. I mixed what I had on hand and didn't look back. We'll see what this next one brings. The late veg flower mix goes like the
Estimated:
1 cf of local activated organic compost
1/2 cf EWC
1/2 cf vermiculite
3/4 cf chunky perlite
1/2 cf peat
1/4 hydroton

3 cups each of:
Kelp
Fish bone meal
Crab shell
Soft rock phosphate
Azomite
Dolomite lime
Greensand
Gypsum
Dried leaf comfrey

I just got 2 gal. Packed full of red wigglers to add to the soil I'm currently cooking. They should bring balance to the "force"(sorry couldn't help myself). No but seriously I think it might work.

Livn N learnin

Thanks for the support guy/gal

Click to expand...

Nice looking mix as well, looks like you mixed up about 30 gallons of soil here. Did you add 3 cups of each of those per cubic foot? Or into the entire batch?

The entire batch. A cup per cubic foot.

Yeah I hear you and that was the goal. Of the two soil mixes, the guano based one has been easiest so I have some moms in that right now and they're happy. I don't understand why the biobizz would throw off my soil more than the teas which were low ph while the bottles mix to a 6.5 and after adding them, the plants have started to take off. So I advocate whatever works for that person in the most organic way possible. The bottles are expensive and it contains fish hydrolysate, sugar beet vinasse, fish tank water, kelp, micronutrients and humic acids to chelate so what is the difference if the humic acid comes from a bottle of biobizz or powdered? Who cares? It's better than chemical salts. I will use the bottles if I need to but right now, the fox farms is working and so is my guano mix I made. I'm rocking both cause I paid for it and both are working. By the time I use all the soil, I will still get my monies worth.

Says it all and more. "Humus - the essential ingredient: Graeme Sait at TEDxNoosa". Look it up and take action.