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Fitzera does things

Fitzera

Fitzera

Active member
flylowgethigh said:
You not have fans to control the humidity, by sucking in dryer air?
Click to expand...

I do. I was not running the exhaust fan during veg because its so dry here. We were in the 30s last week, coming back up now that it's warming up.

I attempted to run the exhaust fan on a timer to get humidity down but not too much. It was all too much fucking around with wild humidity swings. Dots told me to get an inkbird controller and he was right. I never looked at my little operation as something to automate but I should have done it long ago.

Currently fluctuate between 56-64%. I'll need to make some adjustments now that ive added the hps and have all that radiant heat.

In the summer I can run the exhaust fan 24/7.
 
Fitzera

Fitzera

Active member
What is everyone aiming for as far as ppfd and dli in flowering without co2?

From what I've read, the lower threshold is 22 dli/509.25 ppfd and the upper threshold is 65 dli/1504.6 ppfd (with co2). "Generally accepted without co2" is 800-1100 ppfd.

I'm thinking I'm going to aim for about 600-650 ppfd to start flowering and slowly ramp it up while watching how the plants react.

Thoughts?
 
Fitzera

Fitzera

Active member
So those clones I took...old school method, just dipped in gel and plopped into rapid rooters with a very light dose of bloom salts. Misted twice a day. On day 3 I opened the vents. Continued misting twice a day. When the rooters were dry I put 2 cups of ro water in the tray. Day 6 I closed the vents back up. Last night the rooters were dry so I gave them 2 cups of ro with a dash of grow salts.

8 days and here we are. One of the male SSxHaze. Not bad, give him a couple more days and should be good for soil.
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One of the LA Chocolat...8 days!! Blew my mind. She is ready for soil.
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G

Guest

Fitzera said:
What is everyone aiming for as far as ppfd and dli in flowering without co2?

From what I've read, the lower threshold is 22 dli/509.25 ppfd and the upper threshold is 65 dli/1504.6 ppfd (with co2). "Generally accepted without co2" is 800-1100 ppfd.

I'm thinking I'm going to aim for about 600-650 ppfd to start flowering and slowly ramp it up while watching how the plants react.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
30,000lux minimum on the outer edges gets me about 25-28dli under the 3500k led. But I run 10/14, and I have a perpetual garden so my light intensity increases across each quadrant up to 1100+ ppfd

Fitzera said:
So those clones I took...old school method, just dipped in gel and plopped into rapid rooters with a very light dose of bloom salts. Misted twice a day. On day 3 I opened the vents. Continued misting twice a day. When the rooters were dry I put 2 cups of ro water in the tray. Day 6 I closed the vents back up. Last night the rooters were dry so I gave them 2 cups of ro with a dash of grow salts.

8 days and here we are. One of the male SSxHaze. Not bad, give him a couple more days and should be good for soil.
View Image

One of the LA Chocolat...8 days!! Blew my mind. She is ready for soil.
View Image
Click to expand...
That's awesome.
I was going to ask you about adding of the bloom salts. I clone in new Coco, flushed with pH water. But I was out and was going to just rinse some old Coco. Didn't end up needing to as I had enough Coco, plus I grabbed some jiffy pucks. Hydrated the pucks squeezed them out and tested the runoff and it's no good.So I rinsed and squeezed the best I could without destroying them but I won't be using them again.
 
Fitzera

Fitzera

Active member
.............. said:
30,000lux minimum on the outer edges gets me about 25-28dli under the 3500k led. But I run 10/14, and I have a perpetual garden so my light intensity increases across each quadrant up to 1100+ ppfd


That's awesome.
I was going to ask you about adding of the bloom salts. I clone in new Coco, flushed with pH water. But I was out and was going to just rinse some old Coco. Didn't end up needing to as I had enough Coco, plus I grabbed some jiffy pucks. Hydrated the pucks squeezed them out and tested the runoff and it's no good.So I rinsed and squeezed the best I could without destroying them but I won't be using them again.
Click to expand...

The last time I took clones I didn't use any bloom, just ro initially and then added some fish fert when I needed to add more water. This time round I remembered I have a bunch of old AN bottles in a box collecting dust. I'll stick to this method for now but I do plan on building a cloner.

For 500ml of ro I put 1ml each of A and B bloom, for the grow salts I put .5ml each of A and B

I'm not a fan of the pucks, I dont like the mesh. I feel like I've had it strangle roots in the distant past. I just steer clear. I'm not a total fan of the rapid rooters either, they don't seem to break down. I still find them in my vegetable gardens.

Actually, last time I tried packing the tray with dirt, that's why I didn't use nutes to begin with. It worked, I'd say took a little longer than this time to get roots, but it didn't pull out of the trays nicely, just fell apart. So rooters are my go to for now until I put the cloner together.

And I'm right around 28dli at 12hrs right now. I'm going to watch them as they stretch and see what adjustments need to be made. The hps is hung quite a bit lower than the qb to get the numbers where I want them. The cobs really help fill the corners in.

Also, the reason why I put the SSxHazes mostly on the one side of my tent is thats the side I hang the hps and figure they will do better with it than the qb directly.

I see you've got a cool tube now too! Mine doesn't use any air from inside the tent. Vented both sides outside and I just use an inline duct fan on the mogul end of the tube. It's increased my temps to about 30, leaf temp right around 28. I increased the humidity setting 4 points to 64, ill ramp it down as we get further into flowering
 
G

Guest

I've used cooltubes for years but I've only found out since I got the light meter how much light you lose using one. So much that I got rid of the tube in veg. But they are a necessary evil, in some places you wouldn't be able to grow because of the heat. The tube has the metal collars that block the light plus the light goes through the glass hits the reflector back through both layers of glass etc., I have an air-cooled hood on the the way, better reflector/spread, I'm still going to duct it but I'll remove the glass.
Re the haze. You'd think the extra red from the HPS would cause them to stretch more but over here things have blown up under the LEDs.
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https://youtu.be/wzwb1DiM0ME
 
Fitzera

Fitzera

Active member
Yes, so much light loss! Hence why I had to drop the hps so much and the cobs. I have been mulling over a different hood for a few years but never bite the bullet. I was thinking the same, no glass, but that completely changes how I'd need to cool it. By doing that im sucking air directly from the tent and most likely then pushing it through a filter. Then id be looking at the problem of regulating the humidity. If I left the exhaust on the humidity controller, the heat would climb substantially. If I run the exhaust 247, then I'm fighting humidity in the winter. Space is premium, the small humidifier would run dry really quickly and the large one takes too much real-estate.

My thinking with these hazes is that they're more susceptible to the high intensity of the qb than the other plants. Mike said he prefers short hazes, and I took from that that these will be shorter. I still expect a good amount of stretch from the sweet skunk side but I have a feeling these will be manageable.
 
Fitzera

Fitzera

Active member
Fuck sakes...the hps is finally shitting the bed. Either the ignitor or capacitor. I'm guessing ignitor. This thing is very old. Gonna have to run into town today and see if the store has any parts but I'm guessing they've switched over to digital. Another day, another expense :/
 
G

Guest

Fitzera said:
Fuck sakes...the hps is finally shitting the bed. Either the ignitor or capacitor. I'm guessing ignitor. This thing is very old. Gonna have to run into town today and see if the store has any parts but I'm guessing they've switched over to digital. Another day, another expense :/
Click to expand...

:huggg: right lol.
On the positive a digital ballast will change your life, money well spent.
 
Fitzera

Fitzera

Active member
.............. said:
:huggg: right lol.
On the positive a digital ballast will change your life, money well spent.
Click to expand...

So they had 1 magnetic in stock. I trust magnetics, I dont trust the digital. I've read too many negative issues with them for my liking. It was a bit more than I wanted to spend being that it can run hps and mh but at least that gives me an option in the future. And of course while I was there I got a replacement bulb..cause why not.

But! So I get home, open it up and all is good until I see the outlet for the light is some funky ass plug I've never seen. My old ballast I wired up myself, none of this funky shit.
So I decide to open that part of the panel, and seems 1 of 2 screws is stripped internally...it spins but won't unscrew. The other unscrewed so fuck it, bend the panel open.
Figure I can pop the socket out....nope, must have taken some force to pop it in cause it's much larger than the opening. Knowing me I'd probably damage something in the small space trying to pry it out so I just cut the wires and spliced in my original cord to the mogul. Guess that 2 year warranty is up lol

But we are back up and running!

Lots of little things have been giving me grief lately, like the dpf system on my truck. Pulled apart a bunch of parts to inspect and trouble shoot, pretty sure it's the pump/heater and the injector...I was hoping it was just the injector. Truck is in countdown mode until it derates the power. And I sure as fuck aren't going to the stealership to pay those prices. Luckily I have a buddy who has worked on diesel all his life, we're just going to delete it all tomorrow for less than replacement parts would cost. It'll save the engine in the long term, give me better mileage and more power if/when I need it (keeping it at near stock power level for now with on the fly tunes if needed)

Add to that I work in safety sensitive positions and as such have to pass a urine test prior to jobs...knowing work is around the corner I stopped all consumption to give myself plenty of time (last year I pushed it a little tighter than I like). Spent 2 weeks of sleepless nights, ugh!
 
Fitzera

Fitzera

Active member
Males are coming along nicely, pretty happy and healthy.
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Medicine Man
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Mointain Temple
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Northern Gorilla Berriez is just starting to pop balls so didn't bother taking a picture.
 
Fitzera

Fitzera

Active member
Figure it's time for individual shots of the girls.

Large Medicine Man...she's going to be huge at this rate.
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LA Chocolat
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Burned Medicine Man growing out of the fuck up
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Northern Gorilla Berriez
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Mountain Temple, they both look very uniform and are finally coming out of their shells
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Fitzera

Fitzera

Active member
Mountain Temple 2, this one I accidentally overwatered in her last pot...wasn't paying attention and watered the wrong plant. Shes finally out growing that.
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This was the short squat pheno of SSxHaze. She's sensitive to water, I've cut the blumats off for her until the soil dries out some more. Also, the new growth is getting better as far as the light burning but it still looks sensitive. Might need to do some shuffling.
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This is the SS pheno of SSxHaze
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The other SSxHaze....the fabric pot seems to have made a huge difference. I think ill be switching everything to fabric in the future.
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And finally the short NGBz...this is my fault. Last transplant the rootball wasn't as dense as I would have liked and had a less than ideal transplant. As you can see she's been shocked.
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