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Plant roots are growing but plant isnt

G

Gratefulcasey97

New member
Hey everyone I'm having a ton of problems trying to get a decent grow going. I'm using nectar for the gods #8 and general organics nutrients. I've gone through more plants then I'd like to admit with most not growing an inch or two past top soil. When I pull them out they have a huge root system going though so I'm lost. I've heard nectar soil doesn't have a lot of nutrients in it so I've started watering with nutrients a little earlier around first week after sprout but 3 weeks after that they are still tiny. I'll normally do a feed, feed then water schedule unless I see early nutrient burn. I have a couple autos going now and a photoperiod flowering so changing soil at the moment isn't an option. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated thank you!
 
Mike Litoris

Mike Litoris

Member
Also dont feed them too early,you say you start to feed them in 1st week,that is
too early.


What kind of lights you use?

Does you have ventilator for air moving?
 
Switcher56

Switcher56

Comfortably numb!
seeds don't require to be fed the 1st couple of weeks and, when I start, the 1st feed is at 1/2 strength. W D D F D D W where:

  • w - water
  • D - dry
  • F - feed
 
moses wellfleet

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
Veteran
If bag seed is available rather practice with that. Sounds like you are feeding too early, but could also be physical properties of your medium are not right.
 
T

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Gratefulcasey97 said:
When I pull them out they have a huge root system going though so I'm lost.
Click to expand...
I haven't seen any photos so with that caveat...

It sounds like your plants are doing great. You can't have a healthy root system and an unhealthy plant.

It might be that you're actually underfertilizing. It would be good to know the nutrients you're using, nutrient concentration and what soil.

Nectar Of The Gods blend #8 sounds like a supersoil.

Photographs would really be helpful. Also more information about your soil and use of General Organics nutrients. What pH, what EC or PPM.

So this is really a request for more information rather than an answer.
 
Switcher56

Switcher56

Comfortably numb!
TanzanianMagic said:
I haven't seen any photos so with that caveat...

It sounds like your plants are doing great. You can't have a healthy root system and an unhealthy plant.

It might be that you're actually underfertilizing. It would be good to know the nutrients you're using, nutrient concentration and what soil.

Nectar Of The Gods blend #8 sounds like a supersoil.

Photographs would really be helpful. Also more information about your soil and use of General Organics nutrients. What pH, what EC or PPM.

So this is really a request for more information rather than an answer.
Click to expand...
... it is.

Blend #8: A variation on Nectar’s Blend #4 potting mix, this blend has the same ingredients, with 50% perlite for increased drainage. Suitable for daily feeding. Mixed in small batches. Coir fiber is rinsed on-site with Oregon rainwater and buffered with limestone to reduce salts. After blending and bagging, soil sits unwrapped and covered for up to 30 days to activate, compost and then go dormant to avoid HOT soil. Ingredients: sphagnum peat moss, perlite, coir fiber, pumice, mycorrhizal fungi, yucca meal, kelp meal, bone meal, diatomaceous earth, clay, basalt, oyster shell (for pH adjustment), humus and lime (for pH adjustment). https://www.hawthornegc.com/shop/product/nectar-for-the-gods-blend-8

... and he is feeding on top of that.
 
G

Gratefulcasey97

New member
TanzanianMagic said:
I haven't seen any photos so with that caveat...

It sounds like your plants are doing great. You can't have a healthy root system and an unhealthy plant.

It might be that you're actually underfertilizing. It would be good to know the nutrients you're using, nutrient concentration and what soil.

Nectar Of The Gods blend #8 sounds like a supersoil.

Photographs would really be helpful. Also more information about your soil and use of General Organics nutrients. What pH, what EC or PPM.

So this is really a request for more information rather than an answer.
Click to expand...



I've only really taken ph and ppm readings before I water. Always 6.5 and the ppm never goes over 600 to 700 when I use nutrient solution. I use tap water that I leave out for 24 hours or more because I can smell the chlorine in it. If I leave seedlings alone using just regular water for more than a week and a half the leaves start to turn yellow then crisp up. Nutrients are general organics grow 4-3-3.

I've watched some videos on YouTube of the owner of nectar for the gods saying that Nectar #4 isn't a supersoil and #8 is only #4 with 50% perlite. Should I be using the Nectar for the gods nutrient solutions since im using the soil?
 
Lester Beans

Lester Beans

Frequent Flyer
Veteran
Switcher56 said:
seeds don't require to be fed the 1st couple of weeks and, when I start, the 1st feed is at 1/2 strength. W D D F D D W where:

  • w - water
  • D - dry
  • F - feed
Click to expand...

This is a myth. I sow seeds in hot soil and they thrive. Plants need nutrients at all stages of their lives. And there is no benefit to letting the soil completely dry out.

It sounds like you gave them too much bottle and it stunted the growth. Or since the roots are doing well do you have high heat and humidity? Plants shut down when they cannot transpire.

Get environment squared away as a number one goal. Then see how the plants react before making other changes.
 
FletchF.Fletch

FletchF.Fletch

Well-known member
420giveaway
At what concentration are you mixing your GH Organics. The bottle recommends 2tsp per gallon (for soil) every time you water, but that is too strong. For my tap water (which starts at .3 ec) 2 tsp puts ec at 1.0 before adding anything else. This means if you are adding more than that your ec is too high.

Also Nectar of the Gods recommends water/nutrients going into their soil should be ph'ed to 6.4. Are you monitoring ph and ec of water/nutes going in and measuring both values of your runoff?
 
Last edited:
Switcher56

Switcher56

Comfortably numb!
Lester Beans said:
This is a myth. I sow seeds in hot soil and they thrive. Plants need nutrients at all stages of their lives. And there is no benefit to letting the soil completely dry out.
Click to expand...
Who says this is a myth? I have dialed in my operation, to the above schedule. I grow in HP Promix.

When I say dry, I mean I don't water, as it is not needed. When I water again or feed, the pots are sitting on the line between moist and dry, and from my previous experience is the point where we should be watering. The true myth is watering until runoff, that applies to coco and, has no place in "my" setup. I vary the amount of water/feed as the plants grow after a repot. I could water every day, I simply don't want to.

Apply what works in "your environment", YMMV :tiphat:
 
C

CrustyCruz

Member
Switcher56 said:
Who says this is a myth?
Click to expand...

LEDs do. They can go 10 days before needing nutes. But look at everyone's led seedlings, they are obviously begging for something, even in those fox forest whatever, bagged pseudorganic soils. Light pastel colors and kinked leaves aren't normal... The LED generation thinks they are.
 
mexweed

mexweed

Well-known member
Veteran
#8 isn't a water only super soil, it's #4 cut by 50% with perlite and #4 isn't even a super soil, I use #4 and mix in a tsp of dry organic nutes for small stater pots and a tbsp going into 1 gallon
 
T

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Gratefulcasey97 said:
If I leave seedlings alone using just regular water for more than a week and a half the leaves start to turn yellow then crisp up. Nutrients are general organics grow 4-3-3.
Click to expand...
The thing to do is this:

1. Get a high P fertilizer, and use 0.4 EC and 0.1 EC of Epsom Salt.

0.4 EC of a high P/K (late flowering) solution (Plagron Green Sensation, Atami B'cuzz, Canna PK 13/14, or just the flowering solution).

2. Always fertilize with that even before planting the seeds.

To grow, the seedlings need P for their root development - and K for strong silvery green stems and Mg for healthy, phototropic leaves doesn't hurt either.

The idea that seedlings have all the nutrients in that tiny seed is just incorrect. Most of the nutrients in the seed will have gone to create the taproot and cotyledon leaves, and then the seedshell is gone. So they definitely need the right kind of nutrients - mainly phosphorus and magnesium.

3. EC to PPM conversion

EC is standardized, and PPM has at least 3 bases to start from: 0.50, 0.64 or 0.70 PPM. 0.1 EC is 50, 64 or 70 PPM, depending on your individual PPM meter.

https://manicbotanix.com/ec-to-ppm-conversion-chart-2/
 
Fitzera

Fitzera

Active member
Gratefulcasey97 said:
Hey everyone I'm having a ton of problems trying to get a decent grow going. I'm using nectar for the gods #8 and general organics nutrients. I've gone through more plants then I'd like to admit with most not growing an inch or two past top soil. When I pull them out they have a huge root system going though so I'm lost. I've heard nectar soil doesn't have a lot of nutrients in it so I've started watering with nutrients a little earlier around first week after sprout but 3 weeks after that they are still tiny. I'll normally do a feed, feed then water schedule unless I see early nutrient burn. I have a couple autos going now and a photoperiod flowering so changing soil at the moment isn't an option. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated thank you!
Click to expand...

A developed root base should mean you have vegative growth to go along with it. But an inch or two doesn't make sense with "a huge root system". As stated, pictures would help immensely.
Did anyone else catch the part about autos?
Is it autos you're having issues with mostly, or photos as well? Alot of autos dont grow very large to begin with. If you're making mistakes with them, they dont have the time to outgrow those mistakes before they go into flower. Photos will grow until you flip the light schedule allowing time to outgrow mistakes.
 
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