That's a real high ppm to grow pot, it's' the level of total salts you put in water for a lot of hydroponic growing.
If you're ever really gonna be feeling like you're not ramming and kicking a stone wall, you're gonna have to punt from $25 + a couple of other parts to hook an RO to a well water hose,
or really you should get the darn $70, $85 dollar ones that have two pre-filters.
I know what a hassle breaking into learning about filtration can be but in defense of suggesting you go take a couple of antacids and buy yet another technology - it really is, one line in,
and only two lines out,
when it's all said and done.
You have a sand filter of course, to catch sand, wrenches, rocks, old lawn furniture and whatever else comes through the water hose - that much is kinda like.. "Yeah, I get it,"
and then, there's another pre filter people have had to use for years. You gotta get a darn carbon filter if there's any chlorine, because the original films, they make these filters out of, are degraded somehow by the chlorine, I knew what the deal was but now I can't remember, and today they have another kind that are some sort of like.. I wanna say cellulose acetate - and allegedly the chlorine or chloramine, doesn't damage those but still and all, the other kind are new, and also - a lotta times, in the overall world, you've gotta have all the chloramine out for medical things, like dialysis.
So almost all of em sell you this giant contraption looking deal that is three tubes, in a row: the sand filter, the carbon filter you often see as ''A/C'' - it's "Activated Charcoal." Then the Reverse osmosis filter is last of course and it looks like somebody molded a plastic tube, to stick an empty paper towel cardboard roll in, when it's inside the plastic torpedo tube housing.
All you ever see is on one end of it there's a little line in,
then out at the other end of this contraption there's two lines out.
Well - if you open the the RO shell and look inside, it becomes very plain what goes on inside.
You stick the filter itself inside there, into some sockets that have O rings and your input water comes in one end of it - from the other filters, is how that goes - then out the other end, there's two little lines there, too:
one of them, the line-out that's dead center - is - go figure, the water that seeps from outside the filter, to- the other side of it, purified.
And then there's another little line out and this one has a little hand valve on it you set yourself, and it lets the brine, the highly mineralized water, get OUT and this is called the waste line.
It's got all the minerals of the input water but it's also got all the minerals the filter, took out of that water drizzling out of your center line out for pure water there.
And what you have to do to run it is adjust this little 79cent valve, so you set how much waste you have, vs how much R.O. you have.
The less waste water, the more minerals are pushed against the wall of the filter and the sooner it clogs up, ultimately.
The MORE waste water, then- ultimately, the less minerals are IN that waste water and that means, sorta by extension that there are less concentrated minerals, pressing against the filter, so it clogs later.
And you kinda figure this all out, and you learn about how you can f*** it up, and how ya won't f*** it up, and they run, really, sorta automatically if you set it up right.
What you have to learn to do is control flow by turning the input water on and off, and when this happens, don't let the waste line drain completely. Like - up under peoples' sinks, when they put these in for drinking and coffee, etc?
The waste line, is run in a little loop configuration that just like an under sink regular drain, is designed to keep some water in the line, not so gases won't back up per SE
but so gases don't CLIMB up the empty drain line,
and evaporate the turned off water,
off the outside of the filter,
causing build up on the outside of it.
Something else for you to start doing is catching rain water.
However possible that is for you, you would know, not I, so that'll be something you need to figure out.
What growers do is set one up to run into a barrel or something for awhile, and then they turn them off manually because really that's a lot easier than a lot of other stuff you gotta do to turn them off automatically.
I don't know what your situation is but it's really kinda hard to get around using a water filter that's just all there is to it. Hard water is hell on growing pot.
Because you're not just trying to keep it alive through zombie apocalypse, you're trying to get predictable stuff goin' on. You're thinking to yourself, high quality very healthy weed,
when what you've really got is some very tough water a plant can survive in, sure. But high fidelity free-flyin mind blowing weed in respectable quantities might not be part of that.. combination of circumstances.
I'm sorry it's gonna cost you some money, dude, if you're on well water you can get by without the 85 bucks or whatever, I think if you REALLY low ball you can get a whole set for 70 bucks three filters all this - but the main thing if you're on well water
is just an R.O. and a sand filter and if you're not a true paranoid and you're out somewhere and it IS like zombie apocalypse, you can run the RO on a well, without even a special sand filter for that R.O. for a while. You need one but if you've gotta get stuff and you're just broke as h** you can get a 50 gal per day RO filter (that's either average or max, you adjust to account for filter life anyway, you'll see how it is) and a shell for it, the torpedo looking outside with the one input, and two outputs - filtered and mineralized waste,
for 25 bucks cash American on Ebay. https://is.gd/PQ0t7Q
My wife and I have been moving between three residences, two of which we own, one of which my son is buying so I thought I needed one for the house we just bought, and got one like that. You have to take it into Home Depot with you and get a guy to help you sort out how to go from - nominally for a kinda guerrilla or low footprint deal, a water hose - (you buy a cap for one and a barb, drill the water hose cap out, push in the barb, then push your little 1/4'' feed line on is what you do) to pure water out the other end.
It turned out that my wife and son had loaded up our household one, from where we were living, so I never had to hook mine up this past summer, I used the one with the sand, carbon and RO, so now I have that one I bought laying in a drawer. It's smaller than the ones you get for a house in gallons per day because when you buy the whole thing, you can often get a really good deal and buy like a 100 gallon per day rating filter, rather than the little 50 I showed you.
That's my story in general if somebody gives you a better idea, obviously, take it. Catching rainwater is a big one. Can you catch rainwater? Catching rainwater is actually a lot of fun, believe it or not because you buy those barrels from swap meets, and figure out how to filter your gutter water through some scrubber pads, and sometimes, you'll get creative and have a big sponge, filtering the water as it falls into this barrel, and every time it rains you get just hundreds, upon hundreds of free, crystal clear, damned near perfectly pure, water.
Good luck man you're gonna have a far easier life on better water. Just guaranteed,
If you don't get a sand filter or you just already HAVE one, and you're on well, you're 25 bucks plus a couple of parts from Home Depot from finding out about the pristine water growing world, and I give you my EVERY assurance, you WILL be happier.
Originally Posted by bigbadbiddy
I would not have started PHing my water if I hadn't begun seeing deficiencies in the plants.
My water is unfortunately quite hard. up to 700 ppm on bad days, around 300ppm on average. PH is also in the 7.1-7.4 range.
Far from ideal but should be workable.
I used to PH it down to 6.2 or in that range and imagined it having positive effects.
But everything was just skewed and distorted by the buckwheat hulls, I believe.
Will know soon. The soil stuff should arrive in the coming days and then I get to mixing. I think in a month or two I will have the first indications to how much of a negative factor the buckwheat hulls really were.