Need an expert to advise me, misting plants????

Misting marijuana plants during veg or clones or just normal house plants if air humidity is to low?!


With RO water with EC almost 0 ?

With normal tap water?

With normal tap water decanted for at least 24 hours?

With RO water mixed with tap water to have a low EC not more than 0,4?

Ok guys which one of this options?



And for clones to let me stay in a glass for first days before using rockwool or transplanting them which options is correct?

Use natural Dew..

Deuteronomy 32:2: "My doctrine shall drop as the rain, my speech shall distill as the dew, as the small rain upon the tender herb, and as the showers upon the grass."

tap water should be fine, depends on your tap water quality though. just ph the water. if you have ro, mix 50% 50 with tap and ph it.

Tap water here too--the wee bit of chlorine seems to be more beneficial than not.

Seems there are many ways that do not kill the plant.

Rain is mineral free distilled water made from evaporation, leaving all solids behind and consisting of condensed pure H2O.
While not having the same ionization as fresh rainwater, steam distilled bottled water is as close as is available.

When I rain on my plants this distilled water is the only misting agent that does not leave a residue on the leaves.
Not that having a residue build up on the leaves is a bad thing, but how is clogging the pores a good thing?

The closer I imitate nature the better the final product.

For the naysayers I have a tidbit, my GPW as measured by most is .37 grams per watt. This is the low side of what the plants can be pushed to, I find it to be the sweet spot for a combination of quality and ease of growth.

Thank you for your time, it all goes to my head regardless of method.

Phaeton said:

...Rain is mineral free distilled water made from evaporation, leaving all solids behind and consisting of condensed pure H2O....

Click to expand...

I too used to think rainwater was as pure as angels tears...but to my astonishment I discovered rainwater has: chloride, nitrate, and sulfate anions--along with an occasional dash of phosphate and nitrite. The closer you are to sea water, the greater concentration of chloride will be in your rainwater.

And then we have this phenomena called "acid rain". Seems that nothing in this world is "pure as angels tears".

Properly cycled fish\turtle aquarium water for the win... thank me later

Ok so iam using special RO water( i buy from aquarium shop),mixed with tap water( as is better for fixing ph as just RO water is sometimes very difficoult) and with correct ph

For misting plants and clones and for clone just after cutted in the glass

Is it ok? And about your experience is it right to think that after you fix you ph it can easily change in less than one day? I think yes, so is better to prepeare less quantity of water and finishing just after first use....am i correct?

There's no real reason why the pH of the clone water should change.

Don't add nutrients and all will be well.

DocTim420 said:

I too used to think rainwater was as pure as angels tears...but to my astonishment I discovered rainwater has: chloride, nitrate, and sulfate anions--along with an occasional dash of phosphate and nitrite. The closer you are to sea water, the greater concentration of chloride will be in your rainwater.

And then we have this phenomena called "acid rain". Seems that nothing in this world is "pure as angels tears".

Click to expand...

"Pure as the driven snow" was another I liked.
Growing up in interior Alaska without plumbing snow was our water source during the winter. This worked very well, the snow melted into clean water suitable for drinking, same as the rain water in the summer. The river water would go bad immediately and wasn't usable.

Today, even 400 miles from the nearest shore and 2000 miles from the nearest industry the snow and rain are polluted past being usable. It tastes bad, scientific measurements are not necessary.

This does not change what the rain used to be, even including the ions and salts near the oceans the rainwater of the past had less than 1% of the pollutants and chemicals contained in treated water.

But your point is taken, even in the center of Alaska the air and water are crudding up at a phenomenal rate that cannot sustain itself.
The current conditions are not natural.

yes the ph can change when the water sits around. the ph minus can evaporate and make the ph go up again. doesn't matter much for misting. just make sure you don't mist plants with the lights on, this can cause burns on the leaves.

Now you got me thinking, how "more pure" is rainwater compared to "tap water"? Rainwater is probably more pure (less contaminants).

Dew is purest cause its a natural fast condensation,
not like rain that can have polutants in self..

If you use tap water make sure to let it sit out uncovered for at least 24 hours to let most of the Chlorine evaporate.

I usually fill a gallon jug with tap water, leave the cap off, and let it sit for at least 24 hours. I usually shake the jug every few hours, doing this you can see bubbles rising to the surface which I assume would be Chlorine gas.

Or one can add Sodium Ascorbate (vitamin C) and not wait the 24 hours. Chlorine removal is almost "instant".

Wouldn't that make the water acidic?

How much Vitamin C would you use for say a gallon of water?

Ok guys,thankyou

I've always wondered if it is safe to use instant chlorine & chloramine remover for fish tanks.. for general hydroponic and gardening use.

I usually let the water sit for the 24+ hours, although I know aerating the water can drop the time down to 12 hrs or less, for the chlorine to dissipate..

I have found that misting and watering plants aqua-ponically with fish tank water to be highly beneficial, as good as using compost tea. It's very bio-available to the plants roots, and also the leaves foilar feed off of it quite nicely as well, and pests don't like the natural defenses the residue leaves. As long as you keep a clean filtered aquarium it isn't nasty at all.. A couple of fish in a small fish bowl would work great for a misting water and supplemental nutrient source for clones and seedings. Clones root like crazy when in my turtle's tank!

Sorry if the following is too off topic but might interest you..I realize a turtle can supposedly harbor salmonella but honestly I believe half of what the medical industry says is a sham.. I think that our gall bladder's already have salmonella in it (brand new studies show this) and it's main function is to retain certain types of bacteria as well as produce bile and protect us and at notice, multiply quickly and release it into your blood stream, for example salmonella, to fight off whatever the foreign unknown bacteria that the turtle released (from its own gall bladder?) and pissed on your hands.

That is you take a reptile out of its habitat (full of its own piss and shit and bennies that it actually thrives in) and handle and cuddle it in a chemical laden towel that had dryer sheets on it, or nasty soap, or even a chemically cleaned floor, and it will piss out it's own defensive bacteria (like our salmonella we harbor and employ) to try to make the super clean area more habitable like it's tank, and then you touch it and all the sudden your immune system sends out salmonella from your gall bladder to fight it off, hence the reason they test your blood and find high levels of salmonella.

Was just about to post the study's on why you shouldn't have your gallbladder removed and how it harbors certain beneficial bacteria, the reason I think this way now, but the new studies I read about seems to have dissapeared!?

Anyways try spraying your plants with fish shit water and watch them glow, and grow so healthy!

CosmicCharlie said:

Wouldn't that make the water acidic?

How much Vitamin C would you use for say a gallon of water?

Click to expand...

Tiny amount--it depends on the PPM amount of chlorine--2.8 parts of Sodium Ascorbate neutralizes 1 part of chlorine. In my world I use 1.25 ml for each 20 gallons of water.

Sodium Ascorbate
Sodium ascorbate will also neutralize chlorine. It is pH neutral and will not change the pH of the treated water. Sodium ascorbate is preferable for neutralizing high concentrations of chlorine. If a large amount of treated water is going to be discharged to a small stream, the pH of the treated water and the stream should be within 0.2 to 0.5 units of the receiving stream.

The reaction (Tikkanen and others 2001) of sodium ascorbate with chlorine is shown below:

C5H5O5CH2ONa + HOCL → C5H3O5CH2OH + NaCl + H2O

Sodium ascorbate + Hypochlorous acid → Dehydroascorbic acid + Sodium chloride + water


Approximately 2.8 parts of sodium ascorbate are required to neutralize 1 part chlorine. When vitamin C is oxidized, a weak acid called dehydroascorbic acid forms.

Several studies have evaluated the use of ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbate to neutralize low levels of chlorine—less than 2 milligrams per liter. Only one study (Tacoma Water Utility Report) evaluated the use of ascorbic acid to neutralize high levels of chlorine—up to 100 milligrams per liter. The Tacoma, WA, Water Utility Engineer recommends against using ascorbic acid to neutralize high levels of chlorine in large volumes of water because it lowers the pH of the treated water. The Tacoma Water Utility engineer recommends using sodium ascorbate instead.

https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/html/05231301/05231301.html

BTW....Sodium Ascorbate (pure pharmaceutical grade powder available on Amazon for about $20/lb) has a 1.25ml = 1.25mg relationship.