acespicoli
Well-known member
If everyone gave more than they took, givers and takers <=>
Well said
Well said
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Organic, Non Organic Soil recipes... post recipes and results or other observations
- Thread starter acespicoli
- Start date
acespicoli
Well-known member
Mycorrhizae are symbiotic relationships that form between fungi and plants.
The fungi colonize the root system of a host plant,
providing increased water and nutrient absorption capabilities
while the plant provides the fungus with carbohydrates formed from photosynthesis.
Endomycorrhizal fungi
Glomus intraradices, Glomus mosseae, Glomus aggregatum, Glomus monosporum, Glomus clarum, Glomus deserticola, Gigaspora margarita, Gigaspora etunicatum, Paraglomus brasilianum
Ectomycorrhizal fungi
Laccaria bicolor, Laccaria laccata, Pisolithus tinctorius, Rhizopogon villosullus, Rhizopogon luteolus, Rhizopogon amylopogon, Rhizopogon fulvigleba, Scleroderma cepa, Scleroderma citrinum, Suillus granulatus
What is the Difference Between Endo and Ecto Mycorrhizae?
Endomycorrhizae have an exchange mechanism on the inside of the root (and the hyphae extend outside the root). Endomycorrhizal fungi form mostly with green leafy plants and most commercially produced plants. Examples: Most Vegetables, Grasses, Flowers, Shrubs, Fruit Trees, and Ornamentals.
Ectomycorrhizae live only outside of the root. Ectomycorrhizal fungi form mainly with Conifers and Oaks. They are required only for a small percentage of woody type plants/trees.
In the last picture you can see how the fungus actually grows around the individual cells to deliver nutrients... amazing?
The fungi colonize the root system of a host plant,
providing increased water and nutrient absorption capabilities
while the plant provides the fungus with carbohydrates formed from photosynthesis.
Endomycorrhizal fungi
Glomus intraradices, Glomus mosseae, Glomus aggregatum, Glomus monosporum, Glomus clarum, Glomus deserticola, Gigaspora margarita, Gigaspora etunicatum, Paraglomus brasilianum
Ectomycorrhizal fungi
Laccaria bicolor, Laccaria laccata, Pisolithus tinctorius, Rhizopogon villosullus, Rhizopogon luteolus, Rhizopogon amylopogon, Rhizopogon fulvigleba, Scleroderma cepa, Scleroderma citrinum, Suillus granulatus
What is the Difference Between Endo and Ecto Mycorrhizae?
Endomycorrhizae have an exchange mechanism on the inside of the root (and the hyphae extend outside the root). Endomycorrhizal fungi form mostly with green leafy plants and most commercially produced plants. Examples: Most Vegetables, Grasses, Flowers, Shrubs, Fruit Trees, and Ornamentals.
Ectomycorrhizae live only outside of the root. Ectomycorrhizal fungi form mainly with Conifers and Oaks. They are required only for a small percentage of woody type plants/trees.
In the last picture you can see how the fungus actually grows around the individual cells to deliver nutrients... amazing?
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acespicoli
Well-known member
As a healthy place for fungi and microbes to live there are some important things to consider
soil types
soil types
acespicoli
Well-known member
What soil type is the best for gardens?
The Ideal Soil Type: Loam.
The type of soil that gardens and gardeners love is loamy soil.
It contains a balance of all three soil materials—silt, sand and clay—plus humus.
It has a higher pH and calcium levels because of its previous organic matter content. Apr 7, 2011
How much organic material might be too much? Tell me what you think?
One reason all this matters is how well your mix holds air and water
Anaerobic Bacteria
aerobic-and-anaerobic-bacteria-1The first and most common bacteria would be the anaerobic bacteria, Obligate Anaerobes. They are capable of living in places void of O2 and most will die in the presence of oxygen. Some agile bacteria are Facultative Anaerobes. These are able to live both in and out of an oxygen laden atmosphere but they are rare microbes. Clostridium, for example, is one bacterial genes that does not need oxygen to survive. Everyone’s smelled anaerobic decomposition inside the refrigerator on occasions. So to, we have all smelled the offensive odor of this culprit coming from an old garbage can. Byproducts of their anaerobic decay involve hydrogen sulfide which smells like rotten eggs, butyric acid which smells like vomit, ammonia which will set our nostrils reeling, and vinegar. Anaerobic conditions foster pathogenic bacteria and kill off beneficial aerobic bacteria.
.
Aerobic Bacteria
The second bacteria type and the most important for live organic horticulture, is the aerobic bacteria, or Obligate Aerobes. Though respiration is crucial to life, the precise function that oxygen plays to maintain life is not readily understood. Essentially, in a microorganism that is capable of using it, O2 enables food compounds to be totally digested. This ensures that every possible amount of energy will be used for maintaining the cell. So the aerobic bacteria have the advantage of metabolic efficiency. Aerobic bacteria can create twenty times more energy, with the equivalent amount of organic compounds, than anaerobic bacteria. What is more, aerobic bacteria aren’t generally known to produce horrible odors. One bacteria in the order of Actinomycetales, genus Streptomyces called actinomycetes, generate enzymes with volatile compounds which gives earth a fresh, clean smell. This is the good quality soil we smell when we instinctively hold a fist full of substrate up to our nose. Interesting how harmonious bacteria agree with us instinctually.
Root rot is a condition found in both indoor and outdoor plants, although more common in indoor plants with poor drainage. As the name states, the roots of the plant rot. Usually, this is a result of overwatering. In houseplants, it is a very common problem, and is slightly less common in outdoor plants.
The Ideal Soil Type: Loam.
The type of soil that gardens and gardeners love is loamy soil.
It contains a balance of all three soil materials—silt, sand and clay—plus humus.
It has a higher pH and calcium levels because of its previous organic matter content. Apr 7, 2011
How much organic material might be too much? Tell me what you think?
One reason all this matters is how well your mix holds air and water
Anaerobic Bacteria
aerobic-and-anaerobic-bacteria-1The first and most common bacteria would be the anaerobic bacteria, Obligate Anaerobes. They are capable of living in places void of O2 and most will die in the presence of oxygen. Some agile bacteria are Facultative Anaerobes. These are able to live both in and out of an oxygen laden atmosphere but they are rare microbes. Clostridium, for example, is one bacterial genes that does not need oxygen to survive. Everyone’s smelled anaerobic decomposition inside the refrigerator on occasions. So to, we have all smelled the offensive odor of this culprit coming from an old garbage can. Byproducts of their anaerobic decay involve hydrogen sulfide which smells like rotten eggs, butyric acid which smells like vomit, ammonia which will set our nostrils reeling, and vinegar. Anaerobic conditions foster pathogenic bacteria and kill off beneficial aerobic bacteria.
.
Aerobic Bacteria
The second bacteria type and the most important for live organic horticulture, is the aerobic bacteria, or Obligate Aerobes. Though respiration is crucial to life, the precise function that oxygen plays to maintain life is not readily understood. Essentially, in a microorganism that is capable of using it, O2 enables food compounds to be totally digested. This ensures that every possible amount of energy will be used for maintaining the cell. So the aerobic bacteria have the advantage of metabolic efficiency. Aerobic bacteria can create twenty times more energy, with the equivalent amount of organic compounds, than anaerobic bacteria. What is more, aerobic bacteria aren’t generally known to produce horrible odors. One bacteria in the order of Actinomycetales, genus Streptomyces called actinomycetes, generate enzymes with volatile compounds which gives earth a fresh, clean smell. This is the good quality soil we smell when we instinctively hold a fist full of substrate up to our nose. Interesting how harmonious bacteria agree with us instinctually.
Root rot is a condition found in both indoor and outdoor plants, although more common in indoor plants with poor drainage. As the name states, the roots of the plant rot. Usually, this is a result of overwatering. In houseplants, it is a very common problem, and is slightly less common in outdoor plants.
acespicoli
Well-known member
In soil science,
cation-exchange capacity or CEC is the number of exchangeable cations per dry weight
that a soil is capable of holding, at a given pH value,
and available for exchange with the soil water solution.
Closely related to cation-exchange capacity is the base saturation,
which is the fraction of exchangeable cations that are base cations
(Ca, Mg, K and Na).
cation-exchange capacity or CEC is the number of exchangeable cations per dry weight
that a soil is capable of holding, at a given pH value,
and available for exchange with the soil water solution.
Closely related to cation-exchange capacity is the base saturation,
which is the fraction of exchangeable cations that are base cations
(Ca, Mg, K and Na).
acespicoli
Well-known member
Plant analysis assesses nutrient uptake while soil testing predicts nutrient availability.
From this information Calcium (CaO) and Potassium (KOH) could be more important than I previously believed.
Langbenite and Oyster Shell Flour?
From this information Calcium (CaO) and Potassium (KOH) could be more important than I previously believed.
Langbenite and Oyster Shell Flour?
acespicoli
Well-known member
In chemical terms,
if a neutral atom loses one or more electrons,
it has a net positive charge and is known as a cation.
If an atom gains electrons,
it has a net negative charge and is known as an anion.
if a neutral atom loses one or more electrons,
it has a net positive charge and is known as a cation.
If an atom gains electrons,
it has a net negative charge and is known as an anion.
acespicoli
Well-known member
Nutrient uptake in the soil is achieved by cation exchange,
wherein root hairs pump hydrogen ions (H+) into the soil through proton pumps.
Nutrients must be water soluble to be useful to your plants
They are absorbed by the roots if the are ionized.
Nature and Science 2015;13(7)
Conclusion
Magnetic water technique led to improve crop yield productivity. (interestingly this could help?)
wherein root hairs pump hydrogen ions (H+) into the soil through proton pumps.
Nutrients must be water soluble to be useful to your plants
They are absorbed by the roots if the are ionized.
Nature and Science 2015;13(7)
Conclusion
Magnetic water technique led to improve crop yield productivity. (interestingly this could help?)
acespicoli
Well-known member
Plant Science
Yeah that's enough science
Yeah that's enough science
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acespicoli
Well-known member
Worm Castings have nutrients that are far more readily AVAILABLE to your plants, the USA Department of Agriculture states that on average Castings contain approx. 5 times the exchangeable Magnesium (Mg), 7 times the available Phosphorus (P), 11 times available Potash/Potassium (K), and 1 1/2 times the Calcium (Ca) found in fine top soil.
does anyone use chitosan in their soil recipes? and if so has it made any difference to the overall plant health/product?
acespicoli
Well-known member
thanx appreciate the kind words friend!
have to agree totally saw the DTE vegan mix and it really seemed great!
Im currently looking for a way to incorporate a larger amt of this to my mix in a diy type formula (chi·tin
ˈkītn/Submit
nounBIOCHEMISTRY
a fibrous substance consisting of polysaccharides and forming the major constituent in the exoskeleton of arthropods and the cell walls of fungi.) :friends:
I like to work the live organic soil and compost I have all kinds of volunteer fungi show up... maybe someone can add more?
acespicoli
Well-known member
dank.frank
I was wondering if you could post that recipe or the link? I saw it was in your sig.
Also I was admiring your bubba (shes so pretty!), you have any more pics of it?
I was wondering if you could post that recipe or the link? I saw it was in your sig.
Also I was admiring your bubba (shes so pretty!), you have any more pics of it?
Boyd Crowder
Teem MiCr0B35
read this thread and still trying to figure out where you are going with it
the chemistry and charts are cool.
just, im not following you, it seems rather random
m2c
im just a newbie , and started in hydro
it took me exactly 3 rounds to go organic
i used the bace no soil lc mix from blaze or burn one of those guys
and the buildasoil coots mix package
it was hot the first 2 rounds,
and has been ok going into year 3
but im seeing some nitrogen and calcium issues
i suppose i should get a test to see what exactly to amend with
but idk, maybe ill mix up danks mspb recipe for a couple of my containers to compare
with my existing soil
i run no till, so im not super excited to go busting up my 2 yo pots
to add in some amendments but, i dont see another way
around it...
the chemistry and charts are cool.
just, im not following you, it seems rather random
m2c
im just a newbie , and started in hydro
it took me exactly 3 rounds to go organic
i used the bace no soil lc mix from blaze or burn one of those guys
and the buildasoil coots mix package
it was hot the first 2 rounds,
and has been ok going into year 3
but im seeing some nitrogen and calcium issues
i suppose i should get a test to see what exactly to amend with
but idk, maybe ill mix up danks mspb recipe for a couple of my containers to compare
with my existing soil
i run no till, so im not super excited to go busting up my 2 yo pots
to add in some amendments but, i dont see another way
around it...
acespicoli
Well-known member
I had this smoke one time... one guy grew it its was great outdoor, had the same clone outdoor from another grower and it was much lower quality. The difference the soil... coffee beans and fine wine its all about the growing conditions!
Anyone else relate to this?
Anyone else relate to this?
acespicoli
Well-known member
Its has taken years to get to the point im arriving at now, there is a whole other thread of my soil mixing from the past 7 years, this was kinda my foray into self mixed soils and soil science looking for recipes and knowledge. I had always used a organic planting mix Baccto with vermiculte previously.
Recently I have found alot more information to add here that I think brings it all together.
Organic soil blend with a SIP watering 2.5 qu ft root mass per plant indoor...
With DF and you adding some references and recipes definitely was help in getting to where im going
Life happened and alot of unexpected curve balls but im back to this thread
Hope everyone is well and present ! Its been awhile !
acespicoli
Well-known member
Baccto Professional Products
Baccto Professional Products are commercial-grade products for use by avid home gardeners.
Professional Planting Mix
- Jump start the growth of flowers, vegetables, and ornamentals
- High moisture reserve medium with optimum balance of both physical and chemical properties allows for less frequent watering which translates into easier and more successful plant care
- pH-stable horticutural sphagnum peat and perlite
- Lime addition for high-capacity buffering
- A balanced blend of major and minor elements and wetting agent
- Excellent air porosity and high moisture reserve
- “Grower friendly” composition that's easy to handle
- Outstanding “shelf life” after leaving the greenhouse
(Available in 2 cu. ft. loose-filled bags, 60 cu. ft. bulk bags and prefilled flats) - Additional Product Details
Professional Grower’s Mix
- Lightweight all purpose sphagnum peat based mix
- Buffered for optimum pH
- Blend enhances growing of bedding plants and vegetables
- Ideal for indoor and outdoor planting in containers of all sizes
- pH-stable vacuumed sphagnum peat and perlite mixture
- pH-adjusted by adding dolomitic lime
- High nutrient and pH buffering
- A balance of major and minor nutrients and wetting agents
- The most air porosity of all BACCTO peat/perlite blends with good moisture reserve balance
- “Grower friendly” composition in many packaging options
- Additional Product Details
Bark 1000 Professional Planting Mix
- Multi-purpose mix that includes horticultural sphagnum peat & processed bark, dolomitic lime, & gypsum
- Provides consistent aeration & drainage for healthy root development
- Used for perennials, bedding plants, geraniums, & poinsettias
- Highly buffered horticultural sphagnum peat, plus coarse perlite, processed pine bark, support
elements and a wetting agent - Dolomitic lime added for pH adjustment
- Pre-moistened for easy handling and use (Available in 2 cu. ft. loose-filled bags, 60 cu. ft. bulk bags and prefilled flats)
- Additional Product Details
High Porosity Professional Planting Mix
- Pre-moistened blend ideally suited for bedding plants & vegetables
- Provides excellent drainage with added porosity for root development
- Combines coarse perlite, pH buffers, & wetting agents
- University tested and endorsed by professional growers
- pH-stable horticultural sphagnum peat
- Extra perlite for added porosity
- Dolomitic lime added for pH adjustment
- A balanced blend of major and minor elements and wetting agent
(Available in 2 cu. ft. loose-filled bags, 60 cu. ft. bulk bags and prefilled flats - Additional Product Details
Way back soil mi used to use for seedlings was professional baccto
acespicoli
Well-known member
Professional Planting Mix
Recommended Applications:
- Bedding plants
- Potted plants
- Foliage crops
- Hanging baskets
- Nursery crops
- Seedling starting
- Filling planters and window boxes
- Repotting plants
- Ground and raised beds
- Rooting cuttings
Composition:
- Pre-moistened sphagnum peat
- Coarse perlite
- Dolomitic limestone
- Balanced nutrient charge with trace elements
- Wetting agent
Features and Benefits:
- Nutrient and pH Buffering are optimized in this blend. Nutrients are less likely to leach out the bottom of the container with the high nutrient exchange capabilities. Constant liquid feeding is desirable; however, due to the excellent nutrient buffering, this blend will require less feeding than most. Monitoring soluble salts is always recommended in any medium.
- Pre-Moistened Sphagnum Peat provides easy watering and transplanting. Wetting agents are added to provide rapid remoistening, in case it gets excessively dry.
- Air Porosity and Drainage are balanced in the mix. This allows thorough watering without the problem of a perched water table and waterlogged roots. Moisture is easy to manage in BACCTO Professional Planting Mix. This formulation can be successfully used with most crops.
- Water Holding is optimal in this blend. Select quality sphagnum peat is neither too wet nor too dry after a thorough watering. Wetting agents help to provide ease of watering.
- Low Cost. Due to the location of our facilities and the ability to produce and obtain aggregates and additives in volume, we can supply the high quality planting blend at a cost-effective price. Quality will not be sacrificed. Be sure to compare the cost per container and couple that with the degree of performance.
- Light Weight is an advantage of peat-lite blends when shipping the finished crop. It allows for easy handling of the pots and containers in the greenhouse.
- Easy Handling is one of the best characteristics of this blend. The light weight and fluffy texture make this material easy to handle and desirable to plant into. It is neither sticky nor granular, and will hold its texture throughout the life of the crop.
- Low Run-Off of fertilizers and pesticides is a feature of this mix. It has a high Cation Exchange Capacity (C.E.C.) thatholds the nutrients in the root-zone for plant use. Less fertilizer could be needed by the crops, which would also reduce run-off
