SURFING

stasis said:

Stewart only partially owns Pipe... He is a bodyboarder...>!!!

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Stewart still gets mad respect at Pipeline, even if he is a bodyboarder. Next time your out on the North Shore of Oahu, go ask Kainoa McGee if he thinks bodyboarders are subpar.

Im sure he does...dont think stasis was sayin he doesn't...just that the fact there are more surfers @ pipe

Girl

Girl


100% pure born GIRL...I love to do crazy boy sports though. Surfing, wakeboarding, snowboarding, jet skiiing, diving, sailing, skate...you know the usual...but my love is for surfing and the ocean. There is nothing like it! All of it is great... Checking the weather early in the morning....watching the waves as dawn breaks....having an epic session or a crappy one doesn't really matter, it's all fun....coming in for a bonfire at sunset on the beach with all my friends around....yeah....well. sigh...There is magic in the air. Of course it is Summer now and every thing is pretty flat.....but this Winter is gonna be the best ever....even the best of the best is going to say it is just too big! Aloha!

Cool nice to see the first chick ohh excuse me girl on the forum...ya surfing and the whole lifestyle surrounding it is such a great laybacked culture....can't beat been blazed and havin a surf sesh

Great story KRIZZNAp....

ONLY A SURFER KNOWS THE FEELING.... It;s true.

Riding Waves saved my life, on many levels.....

Nothing more pure than sitting on your board, looking out to sea for the swells, as you wait....

Mike Stewart is a supreme waterman. No doubt. His ability to Bodysurf is what I believe really distinguishes him. That is a real skill...! I practiced it during small unsurfable days.

Ever try putting on a pair of fins, and using a McDonalds Tray as a handboard..>!!!???? It is great, always good for a few laughs from the beach, as you masterfully track across the face of a 2 foot wave....
That is a technique used by kids, years ago in the islands, who did not yet have boards...

I DO like riding a Kneeboard with fins, on small days....

But, just for the record, in Stasis's world, Stand-up Surfers are by far - the Big Dogs.

Re: Bodyboarders - although it is fun, the buzzer sounds....lol

Easy now......

I Love all ocean people. Especially, ICMAG Ocean People..>! Don't misundertake me... haha....

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I have been lucky enuf to have many, many wildlife encounters, you name the animal...... Sometimes, a little too close for comfort. lol....

Have seen Sea Lions surf many, many waves. Some Even making EYE CONTACT with me, even barking at me, immediately before they kick into a 8-foot-face wave, and cruising right past me....

Or once, two Lions were flying through a wave, in the afternoon backlit scenario, they were silouetted one above the other, just cruising thru the wave, as if it was breathing to them.

The Great White that surprised me at 6tam, on a foggy dawn patrol, in the Red Triangle... Or the one who bumped me last year, at my favorite open-ocean Break.

The Elephant Seal that was on the beach, so big, I did not see it, and kicked it accidentally, as if it was a rock. It was an angry rock, and they CAN move - if harassed... lol...

The Killer Whale (Shamu) that appeared, jumping and cavreeting in the exact spot that I had just vacated to get out of the water. Not 2 minutes previously.

2 Black and White Huge Manta Rays, Porkin' in the water in Hawaii, outside of the surfzone, for all to see.

And the biggest beast of all, the 30+ foot monsters I used to take on sometimes in the Islands.... Friends cheering you into the biggest ones, lest you hesitate at the top. Helicopters just above, filming the scene for IMAX.....!

I remember the best waves with slo-mo precision, as if they happened just yesterday. I will never give up those amazing hard-earned memories...

One in particular, that was quadruple-overhead, easy, and formed a terrifying barrel on a RIGHT, when the break was really a LEFT. I went anyways, and was presented with a difficult situation, but an easy choice....! Hold ON, go through the Barrel, or get smashed by the 25 foot face lip....! I remember telling myself, CALM DOWN, RIDE IT OUT, F'IN BREATHE, NO OTHER CHOICE>.. I had never been on a barrel like this....

Made it out, by having the ability to simply not freak out, and stand still.>!!! On the beach, the biggest - semi-mean Local Hawaiian Dude, who rode a 9-foot board like a toothpick, took me aside, and told me, "I saw that one Bruddah.>>!!" That was all he said, but I will never forget it. He NEVER talked to ANYBODY of haole descent...

BEST SPORT IN DA WORLD..

K ++ to anyone with the balls to even go out in the ocean, on any craft...

Favorite Surf area: RIGHT here, when it is good.... Always swell, always cold, no crowds.

May move to Costa Rica (been there 3 times, 1st choice), or Spain, myself.... In a year or two....

BEST SPORT IN DA WORLD..

:

20 foot waves expected at the Wedge this week! YES

20 foot waves expected at the Wedge this week! YES

Surfline of Huntington Beach has issued a special advisory saying that a major ocean swell will produce really large waves at north Orange County beaches on Thursday and Friday, posing hazards for swimmers and surfers, but giving the U.S. Open of Surfing the sort of juice it needs for a good contest. (Click here to follow Laylan Connelly’s beach and contest coverage.)

The waves will come from a distant storm and travel a fairly narrow gap into county waters.


Meteorologist Sean Collins. Image courtesy of MKM
Surfline founder Sean Collins explains in an email: “This storm is east of Tahiti, actually very similar to the July 1996 storm that I coordinated for Mike Steward to follow the swell from Tahiti, Hawaii, Wedge, and up to Alaska. This swell might even be a little bigger here than that one because the storm is a little closer. Winds are over 50 knots and seas are over 45 feet, 4,600 miles away from Orange County. Very close for a southern hemisphere storm as they’re usually 5,000 miles away.

“The swell will be very southerly — 185-195 degrees, so it will focus very strongly in north OC. Beginning to arrive on Thursday and filling in with very large 5-8 foot+++ sets in the afternoon at better spots like HB and Newport.

“Friday looks like the peak day with 8-10 foot+++ surf. Wedge will be over 20 feet. Saturday a little smaller but still 6-8+ foot+ better spots. South OC will be smaller than North OC by a few feet but still solid overhead in the 5-8 foot range at the better spots, and Trestles 8-10 feet.

“I’m working with Hurley to try to approve jet ski assist for the US Open of Surfing on Friday and Saturday so everyone can watch great surfing and not just paddling against a river current.”

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http://sciencedude.freedomblogging....-waves-expected-at-the-wedge-this-week/42817/

i love body surfing at the wedge, though i will probably just hang out and watch the kooks going for it. good times coming this week!
be careful out there

damn that sounsd cool! wish i could be there to see it!

bring you cam!

the wedge is crazy. its basically shorebreak. you get like 3" of water between your head and the sand. i;ve seen a dude surf it when it was 8-9 ft. HUGE BALLS

when you see the big sets coming in they make the jetty look tiny

the wedge... follow likn for video & wedge info
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://bp3.blogger.com/_kDyTcbycWv4/R-yLERuEEoI/AAAAAAAACKc/j-j15UWfaIw/s400/wedge.jpg&imgrefurl=http://socalforecast.blogspot.com/2008/03/surf-break-maps-wedge-newport-beach.html&usg=__wsaWQGbOSinjzfGAdfl7elvtFIk=&h=287&w=400&sz=24&hl=en&start=12&um=1&tbnid=aLfTL5rcHxc_UM:&tbnh=89&tbnw=124&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dthe%2Bwedge%2Bnewport%2Bbeach%26hl%3Den%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox%26rlz%3D1I7TSHB_en%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1

its winter here cold freezing offshores super clean swells rolling thru around every 5-10 days no crowds only real dedicated fellas and real big great whites but they keep to hassling the abalone divers and seals.AAHHHH to live in the southern hemisphere truly a surfers paradise

the wedge aint no joke....

from: http://www.ocregister.com/articles/sciencedude-waves-newport-2506602-hoag-hospital

Lifeguards rescue man at the Wedge in Newport Beach.
By ELYSSE JAMES
THE ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER
Comments 5| Recommend 3
NEWPORT BEACH -- A body boarder was pulled from the high surf today and taken to the hospital.

The man was pulled from the waves by lifeguards at the Wedge in Newport Beach at about 1 p.m., officials said.

He was taken to Hoag Memorial Hospital Presbyterian.

Waves that were 15 feet and higher were reported today at the Wedge and a rip current advisory is in effect at all Orange County beaches this afternoon.

Earlier today, three surfers were separated from their boards by strong surf in Dana Point, but they made it back to shore with the help of other surfers, officials said.

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nice slide show of the wedge http://www.ocregister.com/photos/-2505961/




US OPEN IS FIRING!!!! some chick shot the pier.

http://beach.freedomblogging.com/20...ngerous-wave-advances-to-quarterfinals/14979/

Nice, ya some chicks kill it...the wedge is def nasty wouldnt want to be in the wrong place on one of those waves...Peace

I got a 10 foot softop that I take out every once in a blue moon. I need to go more often but every time I get shit for riding a 10 footer! What can I say, I'm poor and the board was a gift.

Getting stoned and surfing is just about as peaceful as it gets.

i cannot ride a short board... well maybe i should say i canot find a short board that will float me! think kyle turley but 6'3' not 6'6'.... i need a big boat to ride.

long boards are cool. mellow. relaxing
not very agile though hahaa

Just got back from Trestles.
It's BUMPING, GET OUT THERE~~~~~

^^ No doubt, my board catches every wave I want it to but it goes one direction; STRAIGHT.

Damn you cali guys and always havin waves its a _________lake on the SE coast

the wedge claims a life!
http://www.ocregister.com/articles/sciencedude-waves-newport-2506602-hoag-hospital

Body surfer who died at Wedge identified
Lawndale man apparently was tossed into rocks by heavy surf that also damaged pier.
By CINDY CARCAMO, KIMBERLY EDDS, ELYSSE JAMES and FRED SWEGLES
THE ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER
Comments 51| Recommend 20

NEWPORT BEACH - Coroner's officials have identified a Lawndale man as the body surfer who died in rough waters Friday at the Wedge in Newport Beach.

Monte Valentin, 50, died at Hoag Memorial Hospital Presbyterian after he was slammed into the rocks by strong current and massive waves, officials said.

About 300 people were on the sand Saturday morning watching about a dozen bodysurfers braving the still large waves of about 20 feet high.

Lifeguard presence was heavy, with three guards at the water's edge waiting with fins and buoys. A lifeguard boat arrived about 9 a.m.

Valentin was pulled from waves about 1 p.m. Friday.


He had been body surfing near the Wedge when a set of waves up to 20 feet high came rolling through, throwing the surfer into the rocks, Schulz said.


Newport Beach lifeguards pulled the badly injured surfer into a lifeguard boat and took him to shore.

Waves that were 15 feet and higher were reported today at the Wedge and a rip current advisory is in effect at all Orange County beaches this afternoon.

Earlier today, three surfers were separated from their boards by strong surf in Dana Point, but they made it back to shore with the help of other surfers, officials said.

The surf is extreme this week," said Newport Beach Fire Department spokeswoman Jennifer Schulz.


"It's not just the size of the waves," Schulz said, "it's also creating really strong currents."

The Wedge remains open to those who wish to enter the water.


Also Friday, San Clemente closed most of its 1,200-foot-long fishing pier this afternoon after heavy surf knocked a wooden crossbeam into the ocean.

"We cleared everybody out of the water," said Blake Anderson, a marine-safety officer. Lifeguards monitored the beam as it drifted north of the pier and toward the beach. When it came ashore at Lifeguard Tower 4, near the Corto Lane railroad crossing, a lifeguard Jeep towed it off the beach.

Meanwhile, sheriff's deputies and lifeguards closed most of the pier at 2:35 p.m. as a precaution, removing about 200 people, Anderson said.

The closure is in effect until further notice. Visitors can walk only to a point about halfway between Fisherman's restaurant and Lifeguard Tower Zero. The closure meant shutting down a city concession stand at the end of the pier.

Waves with faces 6 to 8 feet high were crashing into the pier, a few with 10-foot faces, lifeguards reported. Once the crossbeam came ashore, lifeguards reopened the water to surfing on the north side of the pier.

Anderson said he could not estimate the beam's size or weight, but an all-terrain vehicle was unable to move it off the beach, so lifeguards had to get a Jeep.

For information on surf at Orange County beaches, check out the Sciencedude blog: http://sciencedude.freedomblogging.com/

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A 10 foot board is harder to master than a 8'6" - 9'0" board, IMHO.....

Sheesh, that Dude at the Wedge got worked, ya...?? Those waves were BRUTAL... All A-Frame Slammers, straight into a shallow sandbar, with rocks on the side...

The videos are RIDICK..>!!!!!

I am sure some of you have been in Hairy situations.. Even some potentially life-threatenting ones... I sure have, but not lately...

Stay safe out there. The South Swells of Summer are tricky...!! Especially for us Northerners, who are used to the sets of winter, where 4 or 5 is the max of waves in a set - usually.

These wild Summer swells also incorporate long lulls, and can convince one that it is small and flat. Then also in character, outta nowhere, they generate 10-wave sets... No mercy, or time to get out the back..!!

Stay safe. Thoughtful, but not too cautious - gotta push it a bit...

the 'surprise' outside sets are tough