Just got my first cls, could use your help on a couple things before I begin

Greetings again, my cls has finally arrived and I'm pumped to give it a try. I have open blasted for years and was ready to go next level. I am looking to make the most stable and clear shatter as i can. I have a ton of butane i will use first but after that i will move to a 70/30 b/p gas. This extractor was purchased from best value vacs and is a 1lb stage 1 dewaxing extractor. I have a 50# recovery tank. The material tube is 3"x18", the bottom collection tank is 10x10" with a splatter platter also added. It is a monster at around 7ft tall. I have a splatter platter on the bottom, ball bearings to filter waxes, multiple filters for filtering as well. Here is a pic...



I have a standard tank, not a stainless one like in the pic but I wanted to show this pic so you could see the ball valves. I am 99% sure of the entire process using youtube, icmag and friends who have cls but wanted to get a few things straight and was hoping for your input. First here are the instructions from the company. They are very short and wanted your thoughts on them...

From best value vacs...
[FONT=&quot]1. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]1. Pack material column. Assemble the extractor and pull full vacuum on unit.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]2. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]2. Close top two inline ball valves. Pack dry ice into dewaxer. Fill remaining space with denatured alcohol (any alcohol works).[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]3. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]3. Place extractor in ice bath. (Desired temperature is 32 degrees F or lower). Connect recovery LP to top cap. (connect hose to VAPOR **blue** port on LP)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]4. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]4. Fill material column with solvent. Allow slight soak (approx. 5 minutes)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]5. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]5. After soak, open ball valve between material column and dewaxer. Allow time to adequately freeze solvent/ extract mix. (approx. 1.5-2.5 hours). Freezing will separate the fats and waxes from the solvent mix[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]6. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]6. After mix has frozen, open ball valve to drop mix thru filters. Solidified waxes and lipids will collect on filters. Ball bearings fill the sightglass.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]7. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]7. After solvent has filtered, close bottom ball valve to separate filters from collection base.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]8. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]8. Switch extractor from ice bath to warm water bath(warm path should be about 100 degrees F).[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]9. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]9. Connect LP recovery tank to collection base, place LP in ice, and recover[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
Let me know if you think these time frames and procedure sounds solid or not. Also had a few other questions.

How many lbs of butane or propane (or 70/30) should be run through a 1lb tube?

Should I do a rinse after I have let the gas marinate in the tube for 10-15 minutes?

What is the best post run cleaning procedure? Does it need to be completely cleaned after each 1lb run or can more then 1 run be done before a full cleaning is needed? Whats best to clean inside with?

Can i use rubbing alcohol inside the dewaxing sleeve to soak the dry ice or is everclear/ethnol better?

I am doing passive recovery. The unit fully put together weights over 75lbs. When I have everything in the bottom collection tank (gas and concentrate) can i close the ball valve above the collection tank in order to heat the lower tank? It will be much easier to put just the bottom piece in a warm bath then the entire unit. Can I just put the bottom tank on a hot plate at 80 degrees or is a water bath better? Whats max temp for lower tank when purging/recovering butane?

How much gas should I expect to lose so I'll know when recovery is gone as far as possible? I have a scale to know weight before and after.

I got the splatter platter so i could pour and not need to scrap. I thought i read somewhere that adding ethonol or everclear to the bottom recovery chamber before doing the run will allow the pour to be easier. is this correct, if so how much to add and if not whats best pouring method? I know has a ton to do with timing and experimenting but wanted your input.

What should the consistency look like when ready to pour when looking through the peek hole?

Can you do anything with the wax that is on the filters or ball bearings?

I know I probably have gone overboard on the questions so please don't feel like you need to answer all or even most of them. I'm happy with any info I get. thanks again for the help

topset1976 said:

Greetings again, my cls has finally arrived and I'm pumped to give it a try. I have open blasted for years and was ready to go next level. I am looking to make the most stable and clear shatter as i can. I have a ton of butane i will use first but after that i will move to a 70/30 b/p gas. This extractor was purchased from best value vacs and is a 1lb stage 1 dewaxing extractor. I have a 50# recovery tank. The material tube is 3"x18", the bottom collection tank is 10x10" with a splatter platter also added. It is a monster at around 7ft tall. I have a splatter platter on the bottom, ball bearings to filter waxes, multiple filters for filtering as well. Here is a pic...View Image

I have a standard tank, not a stainless one like in the pic but I wanted to show this pic so you could see the ball valves. I am 99% sure of the entire process using youtube, icmag and friends who have cls but wanted to get a few things straight and was hoping for your input. First here are the instructions from the company. They are very short and wanted your thoughts on them...

From best value vacs...
[FONT=&quot]1. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]1. Pack material column. Assemble the extractor and pull full vacuum on unit.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]2. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]2. Close top two inline ball valves. Pack dry ice into dewaxer. Fill remaining space with denatured alcohol (any alcohol works).[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]3. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]3. Place extractor in ice bath. (Desired temperature is 32 degrees F or lower). Connect recovery LP to top cap. (connect hose to VAPOR **blue** port on LP)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]4. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]4. Fill material column with solvent. Allow slight soak (approx. 5 minutes)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]5. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]5. After soak, open ball valve between material column and dewaxer. Allow time to adequately freeze solvent/ extract mix. (approx. 1.5-2.5 hours). Freezing will separate the fats and waxes from the solvent mix[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]6. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]6. After mix has frozen, open ball valve to drop mix thru filters. Solidified waxes and lipids will collect on filters. Ball bearings fill the sightglass.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]7. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]7. After solvent has filtered, close bottom ball valve to separate filters from collection base.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]8. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]8. Switch extractor from ice bath to warm water bath(warm path should be about 100 degrees F).[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]9. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]9. Connect LP recovery tank to collection base, place LP in ice, and recover[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]l
[/FONT]
Let me know if you think these time frames and procedure sounds solid or not. Also had a few other questions.

How many lbs of butane or propane (or 70/30) should be run through a 1lb tube?

Should I do a rinse after I have let the gas marinate in the tube for 10-15 minutes?

What is the best post run cleaning procedure? Does it need to be completely cleaned after each 1lb run or can more then 1 run be done before a full cleaning is needed? Whats best to clean inside with?

Can i use rubbing alcohol inside the dewaxing sleeve to soak the dry ice or is everclear/ethnol better?

I am doing passive recovery. The unit fully put together weights over 75lbs. When I have everything in the bottom collection tank (gas and concentrate) can i close the ball valve above the collection tank in order to heat the lower tank? It will be much easier to put just the bottom piece in a warm bath then the entire unit. Can I just put the bottom tank on a hot plate at 80 degrees or is a water bath better? Whats max temp for lower tank when purging/recovering butane?

How much gas should I expect to lose so I'll know when recovery is gone as far as possible? I have a scale to know weight before and after.

I got the splatter platter so i could pour and not need to scrap. I thought i read somewhere that adding ethonol or everclear to the bottom recovery chamber before doing the run will allow the pour to be easier. is this correct, if so how much to add and if not whats best pouring method? I know has a ton to do with timing and experimenting but wanted your input.

What should the consistency look like when ready to pour when looking through the peek hole?

Can you do anything with the wax that is on the filters or ball bearings?

I know I probably have gone overboard on the questions so please don't feel like you need to answer all or even most of them. I'm happy with any info I get. thanks again for the help

Click to expand...

The very first thing id do.....is pressure check your extractor. Ive personally bought several things BVV them that said they were checked but leaked and didnt work as they were intended. CS has always taken care of the problem and quickly but id pressure test the shit out that extractor especially with all the connections it has on the unit you posted. At least 24hr of 100psi and at least 24 of -30hg pressure.

Personally i had over 50lbs ran in my lil terps before i stepped up to a large extractor. Experience with the little extractor made stepping up to a few lb unit was simple.

Id only run 5-6lbs of solvent per lb max. I like to run my tanks in that range...any less i just top of my tank. I dont do any soak as i dont have a dewaxing spool on my extractor.....just straight pass threw.

I also like to leave my material column on my collection tank threw out the whole process....some butane will be in the material....leaving the column on during recovery will allow you to recover some of that butane as well as a minuscule amount of extra oil.

As far as cleaning i run 4x 3x24" tubes per day typically. i have 4 separate tubes i pack the night before. I try most of the time to run the same strain but if i dont i typically dont give a shit. if the first run is a-dub and the second gg4 run gets a little adub oil in it. who gives a shit. Ive realized as long as its extrememly stable and clear....no one gives a shit....LOL....... I only clean after im fully done for the day and with 99% iso alcohol.

I dont put shit in my collection tank but oil. no alcohol nothing. If your running a lb and the worst run ive ever done so far was 7.4% return on a run and i run 600g.......thats nearly 45g per run....its very easy to pour off 45g from a spatter platter.....now if that run is more like a nug run and north of 160g.....it gets even easier. Pouring off if its the right return is easy as shit!

As far as when you are done.....a gauge or refrigerant scale is way more accurate

thanks killa, yes i have tested the pressure on the unit by pulling a full vac and leaving it for a few hours. I figured if no air got sucked in then no air would blow out when positively pressurized. I noticed the gaskets looked a little weak. How long do they normally last before they need replacing? I have a pressure gauge for the gas tank so i'll take a reading and weight it before and after to know when I'm done with recovery. thanks so much for the tips and info. I think i'm ready to get started!

topset1976 said:

thanks killa, yes i have tested the pressure on the unit by pulling a full vac and leaving it for a few hours. I figured if no air got sucked in then no air would blow out when positively pressurized. I noticed the gaskets looked a little weak. How long do they normally last before they need replacing? I have a pressure gauge for the gas tank so i'll take a reading and weight it before and after to know when I'm done with recovery. thanks so much for the tips and info. I think i'm ready to get started!

Click to expand...

a few hours is not sufficient.......these things might only leak .50 psi over 24 hours....you dont want to go on hourly checks....Pressurize your whole system for 24hrs....NO shortcuts....then vacuuum down for another 24hrs..

THere is no rush worth safety. My gaskets on my lil terps are still going after over 40lbs of use and my large extractor is at about 75lbs and its still has perfect gaskets....wipe them down with iso after each run and they should be good.... I only use viton in my system and they are good.

I bought 30 extra of each gasket my extractor takes just in case and have use like one or 2 of them so far...LOL

Kills gave you great advice. Be sure to download the column calculator from terppextractors. Going to need it if you plan on triple flooding to be sure your dewax column has the capacity. Also since you're dewaxing, close the valve in between the material column and the dewax column while you're recovering to prevent waxes falling from material column. When you're done recovering , connect you're isolated material column to your still chilling recovery tank while your collecting oil, to scavange residual vapor in material.

Defiyah Man said:

Kills gave you great advice. Be sure to download the column calculator from terppextractors. Going to need it if you plan on triple flooding to be sure your dewax column has the capacity. Also since you're dewaxing, close the valve in between the material column and the dewax column while you're recovering to prevent waxes falling from material column. When you're done recovering , connect you're isolated material column to your still chilling recovery tank while your collecting oil, to scavange residual vapor in material.

Click to expand...

great info thanks again. Could you explain what you mean by "triple flooding"?

topset1976 said:

great info thanks again. Could you explain what you mean by "triple flooding"?

Click to expand...

3xs the column's material to butane volume. Could warm that isolated column w an appropriate heated wrap briefly in addition to the DI.

i see thanks for clearing that up DM. So I just noticed the pic i posted doesn't show the first ball valve that is between the material column and the dewaxing sleeve. So I see the butane going into the material column which will be isolated and the ball valve just below it closed. The butane will soak in the column for 10 min and then I'll open the valve allowing mix to go into the dewaxing column. I'll also have the ball valve just below the dewaxing sleeve closed. after an hour or two i'll open that and the valve going into the bottom chamber. Here is a pic showing all three ball valves. If the material column can handle 5-6lbs of gas isolated the material column plus the dexaxing sleeve should be able to correct? Here is a pic showing all 3 valves.

Also had another question. The extractor came with SS ball bearings to use as a filter. In the first pic it shows them in the last stage of the filtering process in the sightglass but my setup doesn't have that sightglass. it is more like the pic in this post. There are 3 levels of filters below the dewaxing sleeve and the last one does have a small sightglass. Does the ball bearings go into the sightglass in this post just above the final mesh filter? I've seen them in the dewaxing sleeve on other units but the instructions from bvv says otherwise so just wanted to be sure.

also, if that is the actual extractor....Id replace all those single hindged clamps for all high pressure ones especially on all tri clamps above 1.5".

That extractor looks serious as F**K. All those clamps and connections are all possible places where it can leak. Thought my extractor was complicated. lol

Also....that big valve closest to the bottom almost look redundant. I dont understand why that valve would ever need to be closed

killa12345 said:

also, if that is the actual extractor....Id replace all those single hindged clamps for all high pressure ones especially on all tri clamps above 1.5".

That extractor looks serious as F**K. All those clamps and connections are all possible places where it can leak. Thought my extractor was complicated. lol

Also....that big valve closest to the bottom almost look redundant. I dont understand why that valve would ever need to be closed

Click to expand...

Killa you are correct sir! This thing is a monster. It's 7ft tall. It didn't look that big in the picture lol. Since it'll poetically weight close to 85lbs full I was wondering if after everything is in the bottom collection tank and ready for warm water bath for purging and passive gas reclaining if it wouldnt be easier to close the bottom ball valve , remove all sections of the extractor above the collection pot and them just put the collection chamber into the water bath? Having to lift that huge thing into a water bath seems dangerous just because of the weight and high center of gravity. Thoughts?

topset1976 said:

Killa you are correct sir! This thing is a monster. It's 7ft tall. It didn't look that big in the picture lol. Since it'll poetically weight close to 85lbs full I was wondering if after everything is in the bottom collection tank and ready for warm water bath for purging and passive gas reclaining if it wouldnt be easier to close the bottom ball valve , remove all sections of the extractor above the collection pot and them just put the collection chamber into the water bath? Having to lift that huge thing into a water bath seems dangerous just because of the weight and high center of gravity. Thoughts?

Click to expand...

It would be easier but this isnt a easy hobby. My extractor is 6' and 74lbs and it gets lifted up all the time by myself...Lots of 7 hour days lifting that extractor...carrying it around....breaking it down! I tell my friends all the time...Its back breaking work!

I like to recover with my material column on to pick up all the residual butane. I still lose a significant amount of butane every run

I used to just put my whole unit in an empty tub then when it was time to add the heat I would fill with hot water and keep that warm for the recovery. Much easier than moving the whole thing when it's full of solvent or taking it apart before you can recover to vacuum.

Also the step about putting the whole extractor in an ice bath seems a little overkill and will probably end up being more hassle than anything. The only reason I could see it being necessary is to aid with the dewaxing but I would recommend skipping that also and just prechilling your solvent. Similar results without the 1.5 - 2 hour waiting game and you don't have to deal with filling and emptying those things.

Your directions say to close the bottom ball valve after filtering but in doing so you will not be able to fully recover the solvent trapped in your material tube and likely a little bit of gas in the dewax chamber. It seems like they added that step to make sure nothing from the filters contaminates your end product, if that's the case you could easily set up a separate recovery line for your material column.

I run 4-5 lbs of solvent per lb of material maybe a little less on bammer runs.

You can use ISO for the sleeve it really doesn't matter as long as it gets cold.

As far as cleaning I never clean mid day and if I'm running different strains I try to start with the best and work my way down. Everything gets cleaned down at the end of the day, ISO for the metal that doesn't touch product limonene for the metal that does and coconut oil for the gaskets.

Just curious how do you plan to keep your water at temp?

montroller said:

I used to just put my whole unit in an empty tub then when it was time to add the heat I would fill with hot water and keep that warm for the recovery. Much easier than moving the whole thing when it's full of solvent or taking it apart before you can recover to vacuum.

Also the step about putting the whole extractor in an ice bath seems a little overkill and will probably end up being more hassle than anything. The only reason I could see it being necessary is to aid with the dewaxing but I would recommend skipping that also and just prechilling your solvent. Similar results without the 1.5 - 2 hour waiting game and you don't have to deal with filling and emptying those things.

Your directions say to close the bottom ball valve after filtering but in doing so you will not be able to fully recover the solvent trapped in your material tube and likely a little bit of gas in the dewax chamber. It seems like they added that step to make sure nothing from the filters contaminates your end product, if that's the case you could easily set up a separate recovery line for your material column.

I run 4-5 lbs of solvent per lb of material maybe a little less on bammer runs.

You can use ISO for the sleeve it really doesn't matter as long as it gets cold.

As far as cleaning I never clean mid day and if I'm running different strains I try to start with the best and work my way down. Everything gets cleaned down at the end of the day, ISO for the metal that doesn't touch product limonene for the metal that does and coconut oil for the gaskets.

Just curious how do you plan to keep your water at temp?

Click to expand...

thanks for the info! The main reason I want to close the bottom valve and take the dewaxing and material tube off is to lower the weight is so i can put the collection pot in a large steel pot I have with warm water that sits on top of a hot plate. The hot plate will keep the water at a constant temp. I'm worried if i put 90lbs on top of the hotplate it might break it.

also if i setup another line to remove the gas from the material column lets say at the bottom of the material column can I do bi-directional inputing of the gas? I've seen and read that that is a better way of inputing the gas to the material tube?

When introducing the gas into the material column does the gas tank need to be chilled? I would think the gas would flow better into the extractor if the tank wasn't super cold since the gas flows from warm to cold correct? The gas will eventually get to the dewaxing chamber and it'll be super cold in there anyways???

Is it necessary to have the gas tank sitting above the extractor? Since my extractor is 7ft tall its going to be hard to get it above the extractor. I can do it with a ladder though. let me know if thats necessary.

so your saying no need to fill the dewaxer with dry ice and just let everything go straight down and use frozen gas? Super cold gas does the same thing as the dewaxer does? i understand that process but won't the wax get seperated better if it sits in the frozen temp for an hour or so? I appreciate all the help.!thanks again

topset1976 said:

thanks for the info! The main reason I want to close the bottom valve and take the dewaxing and material tube off is to lower the weight is so i can put the collection pot in a large steel pot I have with warm water that sits on top of a hot plate. The hot plate will keep the water at a constant temp. I'm worried if i put 90lbs on top of the hotplate it might break it.

Not sure about using a hotplate in the extraction room. I asked how you were going to heat the water because it was kind of a big challenge for me to find a reliable and easy setup. I was actually just using 2 electric kettles and rotating out hot water at first but it was tedious and messy. Now I am heating a tank outside the room and pumping that water in and out. Just use something like a rubbermaid tote and put the whole unit in that. Pump water in and out and you never have to move the machine.

also if i setup another line to remove the gas from the material column lets say at the bottom of the material column can I do bi-directional inputing of the gas? I've seen and read that that is a better way of inputing the gas to the material tube?

Yah you can do that but the people I know with bi-flow capabilities are still just top flooding.

When introducing the gas into the material column does the gas tank need to be chilled? I would think the gas would flow better into the extractor if the tank wasn't super cold since the gas flows from warm to cold correct? The gas will eventually get to the dewaxing chamber and it'll be super cold in there anyways???

If you're using the dewax chamber then I wouldn't chill the gas. You're right it will create issues with pressures equalizing and make it hard to get a complete dump.

Is it necessary to have the gas tank sitting above the extractor? Since my extractor is 7ft tall its going to be hard to get it above the extractor. I can do it with a ladder though. let me know if thats necessary.

I wouldn't do that unless the system is specifically designed for that. If you are having pressure issues and can't dump all the solvent there are numerous tricks to help build pressure. You can use a second solvent tank or a recovery pump to name a few.

so your saying no need to fill the dewaxer with dry ice and just let everything go straight down and use frozen gas? Super cold gas does the same thing as the dewaxer does? i understand that process but won't the wax get separated better if it sits in the frozen temp for an hour or so? I appreciate all the help.!thanks again

Click to expand...

You might get better separation in the dewaxer, I don't personally have side by side test results to prove that frozen gas works just as well but from personal experience it works well enough that the time it saves from a full dewax is worth it.

i have the same extractor funny! same exact shit! I run mine passively, you didnt say how you plan to run it.

here is what how i run:
1. vac down system and hold for 10 or so mins all valves open duh.

2. close all valves once vac and hold is complete.

3. sometimes i prechill butane but havent noticed much difference since im dewaxing so i dont do it. if theres is something i want to run with cold butane i use it for a second run when the butane is already cold. in that case i dont soak at all i just run all the butane over it at once in to a prechilled dewax chamber.

To soak is a couple steps though. First I run room temp butane over the material and let it sit for 10 mins.

4. crack the valve to the dewaxing chamber until i feel it running out the bottom of the material colum. pretty obvious, where its cold theres butane. let sit for 20 or so

5. start packing dewaxing with dry ice at least half way, then dribble some alcohol. the alcohol gets less violent as it gets down to temp.

6. about here i open the valve and let the butane dump. the cold dewaxing chamber is pulling the butane over. it happens pretty quick good idea to keep an eye on the holding tank weight here. like others said use atleast 3-4. lbs total for a lb. when i use less i will see oil when i clean the material column. using more just gives you more time recovering i feel. with a soak you dont need to run 3x the butane to get everything. i pour out dry ass hay when i dump my column. hard to believe there is much there.

7. here i let it sit for atleast 30-40 mins. add dry ice and alcohol as needed here. but if you packed it 3/4 full at the begining it will last pretty much the whole time.

8. while that sits dewaxing i start getting the butane cold, use a cooler for this makes a big difference and they are only 20$ at home depot if you have the 30lb tank. i reuse the alcohol so i just toss a chunk in the cooler and sit the butane on top and let it cool. once i have alcohol bubbling over the top of the butane tank nice know its time to recover

9. recovery time. i open the butane tank to the collection. open the collection to the dewaxing filters. then lastly open the dewax chamber to dewax filters. this last ball valve open should dump all the butane out if your holding tank was cold enough. if not it will slowly trickle down as the holding tank gets colder. takes forever and it sucks. vapor lock is when the pressures equalize, you dont want this. butane should always be pulled or pushed one direction to avoid this.

10. close valve on the collection pot once you are convinced all the butane is out of dewaxing areas.

11. add hot water to bath. only about 6-8 gallons here and i dont use a heater although you can. i get rates of 5-10 mins a lb of butane average about 30-40 mins recovery.

11. i stop recovery at 0-5psi and pour out my splatta platta.

hope this helps let me know how it goes for you or if there are clarifications needed.

extra tips:
1. i start with my whole unit in the container that will be my water bath.
2. I use denatured alcohol to clean everything, works better thatn iso for me.
3. my whole process is less than 2 hours including packing the material unless i want to take extra long to dewax.
4. to avoid air in the line, before you open the material valve to dump butane, crack the end of tho hose next to material and fill the line with butane by opening the valve on the tank. tighten when you see butane at the loose line by material. you dont want air in there for alot of reasons.

topset1976 said:

Greetings again, my cls has finally arrived and I'm pumped to give it a try. I have open blasted for years and was ready to go next level. I am looking to make the most stable and clear shatter as i can. I have a ton of butane i will use first but after that i will move to a 70/30 b/p gas. This extractor was purchased from best value vacs and is a 1lb stage 1 dewaxing extractor. I have a 50# recovery tank. The material tube is 3"x18", the bottom collection tank is 10x10" with a splatter platter also added. It is a monster at around 7ft tall. I have a splatter platter on the bottom, ball bearings to filter waxes, multiple filters for filtering as well. Here is a pic...View Image

View Image

I have a standard tank, not a stainless one like in the pic but I wanted to show this pic so you could see the ball valves. I am 99% sure of the entire process using youtube, icmag and friends who have cls but wanted to get a few things straight and was hoping for your input. First here are the instructions from the company. They are very short and wanted your thoughts on them...

From best value vacs...
[FONT=&quot]1. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]1. Pack material column. Assemble the extractor and pull full vacuum on unit.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]2. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]2. Close top two inline ball valves. Pack dry ice into dewaxer. Fill remaining space with denatured alcohol (any alcohol works).[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]3. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]3. i dont use the ice bath->Place extractor in ice bath. (Desired temperature is 32 degrees F or lower). Connect recovery LP to top cap. (connect hose to VAPOR **blue** port on LP)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]4. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]4. Fill material column with solvent. Allow slight soak (approx. 5 minutes)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]5. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]5. After soak, open ball valve between material column and dewaxer. Allow time to adequately freeze solvent/ extract mix. (approx. 1.5-2.5 hours). Freezing will separate the fats and waxes from the solvent mix [FONT=&quot]i was told by them on the[FONT=&quot] phone to go with 30-40 so thats what i do, longer [FONT=&quot]cant h[FONT=&quot]urt though, [/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]6. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]6. After mix has frozen, open ball valve to drop mix thru filters. Solidified waxes and lipids will collect on filters. Ball bearings fill the sightglass. [FONT=&quot]my ball bearings go in the dewa[FONT=&quot]x[FONT=&quot] chamber [FONT=&quot]to help get the materi[FONT=&quot]al cold and [FONT=&quot]the waxes and lipids stick to them.[FONT=&quot] they told me to[FONT=&quot] put them there :/[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]7. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]7. After solvent has filtered, close bottom ball valve to separate filters from collection base.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]8. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]8. Switch extractor from ice bath to warm water bath(warm path should be about 100 degrees F).[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]9. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]9. Connect LP recovery tank to collection base, place LP in ice, and recover[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
Let me know if you think these time frames and procedure sounds solid or not. Also had a few other questions.

How many lbs of butane or propane (or 70/30) should be run through a 1lb tube?
3-4 lbs per lb
Should I do a rinse after I have let the gas marinate in the tube for 10-15 minutes?

What is the best post run cleaning procedure? Does it need to be completely cleaned after each 1lb run or can more then 1 run be done before a full cleaning is needed? Whats best to clean inside with?
clean at the end of the day or after few runs. the 25 micron filters can get clogged with dewax material after several runs so i clean them every couple runs or so depending. the rest of the unit can keep running if you dont mind the flavors mixing.
Can i use rubbing alcohol inside the dewaxing sleeve to soak the dry ice or is everclear/ethnol better?

I am doing passive recovery. The unit fully put together weights over 75lbs. When I have everything in the bottom collection tank (gas and concentrate) can i close the ball valve above the collection tank in order to heat the lower tank? It will be much easier to put just the bottom piece in a warm bath then the entire unit. Can I just put the bottom tank on a hot plate at 80 degrees or is a water bath better? Whats max temp for lower tank when purging/recovering butane?
max temp is 110, you dont want your extract getting too warm
How much gas should I expect to lose so I'll know when recovery is gone as far as possible? I have a scale to know weight before and after.
i lose less than .5 lbs but can get down to pretty much nothing if i recover to negative psi
I got the splatter platter so i could pour and not need to scrap. I thought i read somewhere that adding ethonol or everclear to the bottom recovery chamber before doing the run will allow the pour to be easier. is this correct, if so how much to add and if not whats best pouring method? I know has a ton to do with timing and experimenting but wanted your input.

What should the consistency look like when ready to pour when looking through the peek hole?

Can you do anything with the wax that is on the filters or ball bearings?
not that i know of i just let it go to the alcohol cleaning
I know I probably have gone overboard on the questions so please don't feel like you need to answer all or even most of them. I'm happy with any info I get. thanks again for the help

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hope that helps, my biggest problem is trying to figure out where my buddering is coming from. think im messing up in the vac oven.

That sounds odd to put your ball bearings in your sight glass. In the rare chance it fails, do you want the ball bearings to be free to go along with any release of pressure? This seems like the worst possible location. I agree with the placement inside the dewaxing column. I also like to point out to not go more than an hour, eventually, you will start to precipitate THCa.

frog357 said:

That sounds odd to put your ball bearings in your sight glass. In the rare chance it fails, do you want the ball bearings to be free to go along with any release of pressure? This seems like the worst possible location. I agree with the placement inside the dewaxing column. I also like to point out to not go more than an hour, eventually, you will start to precipitate THCa.

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i agree that the ball bearings location is strange but if i put them in the dewaxing chamber they will only stay in there if i keep the ball valve just below the dewaxing chamber closed. i have to open it to allow the goo to get into the bottom chamber . There are two fine filters about 6 inches below the dewaxing chamber but i worry about dropping 40 steel ball bearings 8 inches down. Eventually it would stretch out or break the filter i would think?

great info and i'm glad you have the same one! i do pretty much the same procedure but i've got a couple questions below...

mrkushpants said:

i have the same extractor funny! same exact shit! I run mine passively, you didnt say how you plan to run it.

here is what how i run:
1. vac down system and hold for 10 or so mins all valves open duh.

2. close all valves once vac and hold is complete.

3. sometimes i prechill butane but havent noticed much difference since im dewaxing so i dont do it. if theres is something i want to run with cold butane i use it for a second run when the butane is already cold. in that case i dont soak at all i just run all the butane over it at once in to a prechilled dewax chamber.
To soak is a couple steps though. First I run room temp butane over the material and let it sit for 10 mins.

I always chill the butane tank in dry ice cooler before i use it. I use the liquid (red) side of the tank. If super cold use liquid and if room temp use gas side i assume?

4. crack the valve to the dewaxing chamber until i feel it running out the bottom of the material colum. pretty obvious, where its cold theres butane. let sit for 20 or so

5. start packing dewaxing with dry ice at least half way, then dribble some alcohol. the alcohol gets less violent as it gets down to temp.

6. about here i open the valve and let the butane dump. the cold dewaxing chamber is pulling the butane over. it happens pretty quick good idea to keep an eye on the holding tank weight here. like others said use atleast 3-4. lbs total for a lb. when i use less i will see oil when i clean the material column. using more just gives you more time recovering i feel. with a soak you dont need to run 3x the butane to get everything. i pour out dry ass hay when i dump my column. hard to believe there is much there.

So the material column won't hold 4lbs of butane right? Only way to get 4-5lbs of butane in is to open dewaxer ball valve? I want to run 4-5 lbs at a time. if i bought a 4lb spool is a 10x10" collection base big enough to hold that much?

7. here i let it sit for atleast 30-40 mins. add dry ice and alcohol as needed here. but if you packed it 3/4 full at the begining it will last pretty much the whole time.

8. while that sits dewaxing i start getting the butane cold, use a cooler for this makes a big difference and they are only 20$ at home depot if you have the 30lb tank. i reuse the alcohol so i just toss a chunk in the cooler and sit the butane on top and let it cool. once i have alcohol bubbling over the top of the butane tank nice know its time to recover

You toss in a chunk of alcohol? Do you mean dry ice? Also what do you mean by alcohol bubbling over top of butane tank. Do you put the tank in a tall water cooler then add frozen alcohol to chill it? Can you freeze alcohol? you don't use dry ice to freeze your butane?

9. recovery time. i open the butane tank to the collection. open the collection to the dewaxing filters. then lastly open the dewax chamber to dewax filters. this last ball valve open should dump all the butane out if your holding tank was cold enough. if not it will slowly trickle down as the holding tank gets colder. takes forever and it sucks. vapor lock is when the pressures equalize, you dont want this. butane should always be pulled or pushed one direction to avoid this.

i think i delt with this the other day for the first time. After it sat in the dewaxer at -50 for an hour i dropped it threw the filters but the liquid just sat in the sight glass. a little bit went into the bottom chamber but most just sat in the sightglass. i had to release some gas and open and close the ball valve to get it to go down. took 45 minutes to get it all down. That was the first time i didn't put the recovery chamber in a ice bath. Could that have been the reason? its much more a pain to have to ice bath it as opposed to just have it sitting in a pot and adding warm water later.

Also do you ever find wax build up on the filters? I assumed i would see a lot of wax on the fine filters but i never see any. is it because when they warm up you can't see it? i just want to make sure it is dewaxing and if it is i thought i should see a lot of wax on the filters.

10. close valve on the collection pot once you are convinced all the butane is out of dewaxing areas.

11. add hot water to bath. only about 6-8 gallons here and i dont use a heater although you can. i get rates of 5-10 mins a lb of butane average about 30-40 mins recovery.

Do you recover the tane in the material column or is it not worth it? What water temp do you use?

11. i stop recovery at 0-5psi and pour out my splatta platta.

hope this helps let me know how it goes for you or if there are clarifications needed.

extra tips:
1. i start with my whole unit in the container that will be my water bath.
2. I use denatured alcohol to clean everything, works better thatn iso for me.
3. my whole process is less than 2 hours including packing the material unless i want to take extra long to dewax.

have you ever tried to do 2 lbs ? repack the tube and run again while the first batch is sitting in the dewaxer? i tried it but without the dewaxer the other day and it worked fine but wondering if you can do it while the first run is dewaxing. Also do you see any problem with buying a 3-4lb spool and running larger batches at a time? a 10x10 recovery pot with a 2" splatter platter should be able to hold that correct? thanks for the help

4. to avoid air in the line, before you open the material valve to dump butane, crack the end of tho hose next to material and fill the line with butane by opening the valve on the tank. tighten when you see butane at the loose line by material. you dont want air in there for alot of reasons.

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topset1976 said:

great info and i'm glad you have the same one! i do pretty much the same procedure but i've got a couple questions below...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrkushpants
i have the same extractor funny! same exact shit! I run mine passively, you didnt say how you plan to run it.

here is what how i run:
1. vac down system and hold for 10 or so mins all valves open duh.

2. close all valves once vac and hold is complete.

3. sometimes i prechill butane but havent noticed much difference since im dewaxing so i dont do it. if theres is something i want to run with cold butane i use it for a second run when the butane is already cold. in that case i dont soak at all i just run all the butane over it at once in to a prechilled dewax chamber.
To soak is a couple steps though. First I run room temp butane over the material and let it sit for 10 mins.

I always chill the butane tank in dry ice cooler before i use it. I use the liquid (red) side of the tank. If super cold use liquid and if room temp use gas side i assume?
I always use the liquid side either way its coldest there and not sure how using the hot gas would work out..
4. crack the valve to the dewaxing chamber until i feel it running out the bottom of the material colum. pretty obvious, where its cold theres butane. let sit for 20 or so

5. start packing dewaxing with dry ice at least half way, then dribble some alcohol. the alcohol gets less violent as it gets down to temp.

6. about here i open the valve and let the butane dump. the cold dewaxing chamber is pulling the butane over. it happens pretty quick good idea to keep an eye on the holding tank weight here. like others said use atleast 3-4. lbs total for a lb. when i use less i will see oil when i clean the material column. using more just gives you more time recovering i feel. with a soak you dont need to run 3x the butane to get everything. i pour out dry ass hay when i dump my column. hard to believe there is much there.

So the material column won't hold 4lbs of butane right? Only way to get 4-5lbs of butane in is to open dewaxer ball valve? I want to run 4-5 lbs at a time. if i bought a 4lb spool is a 10x10" collection base big enough to hold that much?
correct no way 4lb of butane will fit in the 1lb-column when packed, like 1lb maybe. i let 1 sit on the material soaking it then wash the other three over it. when packed with nug run you will be pushing it to use 4lb-spool but im not sure. i have used a 5 lb but it had 12'' spool.
7. here i let it sit for atleast 30-40 mins. add dry ice and alcohol as needed here. but if you packed it 3/4 full at the begining it will last pretty much the whole time.

8. while that sits dewaxing i start getting the butane cold, use a cooler for this makes a big difference and they are only 20$ at home depot if you have the 30lb tank. i reuse the alcohol so i just toss a chunk in the cooler and sit the butane on top and let it cool. once i have alcohol bubbling over the top of the butane tank nice know its time to recover

You toss in a chunk of alcohol? Do you mean dry ice? Also what do you mean by alcohol bubbling over top of butane tank. Do you put the tank in a tall water cooler then add frozen alcohol to chill it? Can you freeze alcohol? you don't use dry ice to freeze your butane?
yes i meant chunk of dry ice but lately i just crush it real good so it reacts faster and i can get to work. you are also correct about the alocohol. i have about a half gallon or more of alchol in the cooler. as i add dry ice it bubble up over the top of the tank. alcohol wont freeze that is why you are using it. sub zero temps down to -50 according to wiki. look up cryo baths. this is how i freeze my butane, its faster than sitting it on blocks and colder i think too.
9. recovery time. i open the butane tank to the collection. open the collection to the dewaxing filters. then lastly open the dewax chamber to dewax filters. this last ball valve open should dump all the butane out if your holding tank was cold enough. if not it will slowly trickle down as the holding tank gets colder. takes forever and it sucks. vapor lock is when the pressures equalize, you dont want this. butane should always be pulled or pushed one direction to avoid this.

i think i delt with this the other day for the first time. After it sat in the dewaxer at -50 for an hour i dropped it threw the filters but the liquid just sat in the sight glass. a little bit went into the bottom chamber but most just sat in the sightglass. i had to release some gas and open and close the ball valve to get it to go down. took 45 minutes to get it all down. That was the first time i didn't put the recovery chamber in a ice bath. Could that have been the reason? yes most likely its much more a pain to have to ice bath it as opposed to just have it sitting in a pot and adding warm water later. to avoid this senario, drain the dewax alcohol in to your cooler before you turn valve to recover,start to ice up your butane tank before you start recovery also. butane is not gonna pull in to your collection if the dewax is colder than butane. the ice bath for your collection was helping before but it wont matter as much if recovery tank is cold.
Also do you ever find wax build up on the filters? I assumed i would see a lot of wax on the fine filters but i never see any. is it because when they warm up you can't see it? i just want to make sure it is dewaxing and if it is i thought i should see a lot of wax on the filters. i do see wax build up on the filters but keep in mind if you are using subzero butane your pickup is reduced greatly, the material column can dewax thru that filter at the bottom. i have a 25micron here. then sides of the chamber and ball bearings will pick up stuff too. so by the time it goes thru the filter stack there may not be that much stuff left to filter. i also have a small 25micron at the bottom of my dewax chamber above the valve to hold the ball bearings in place it seems you dont have that one.

10. close valve on the collection pot once you are convinced all the butane is out of dewaxing areas.

11. add hot water to bath. only about 6-8 gallons here and i dont use a heater although you can. i get rates of 5-10 mins a lb of butane average about 30-40 mins recovery.

Do you recover the tane in the material column or is it not worth it? What water temp do you use?
there can be up to .5lb in the material, i recover with all valves open down to +5-10lbs atleast ususally.no temp gauge but i use hot water from tap and by the time it cools the recovery is done. i need to get a water heater or heat pad for this part.

11. i stop recovery at 0-5psi and pour out my splatta platta.

hope this helps let me know how it goes for you or if there are clarifications needed.

extra tips:
1. i start with my whole unit in the container that will be my water bath.
2. I use denatured alcohol to clean everything, works better thatn iso for me.
3. my whole process is less than 2 hours including packing the material unless i want to take extra long to dewax.

have you ever tried to do 2 lbs ? repack the tube and run again while the first batch is sitting in the dewaxer? i tried it but without the dewaxer the other day and it worked fine but wondering if you can do it while the first run is dewaxing. Also do you see any problem with buying a 3-4lb spool and running larger batches at a time? a 10x10 recovery pot with a 2" splatter platter should be able to hold that correct? thanks for the help
never tried it but it would work. as long as you let the column get recovered enough idk why it would not work well. going to try this and see though, i have a bunch to run right now. you will be fine using the bigger spool but 4 lb of nug run could see 200+ grams so it would be real full especially if you leave it pretty liquid for the pour. should fit tho!

4. to avoid air in the line, before you open the material valve to dump butane, crack the end of tho hose next to material and fill the line with butane by opening the valve on the tank. tighten when you see butane at the loose line by material. you dont want air in there for alot of reasons.

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hope this helps you. i want to get a bigger spool looking at a 2lb atleast. just need to get my purges right