DIY Organic Potting Mix's for Grass - Ace Spicoli

Flower Beds: Mix 4 lbs. (12 cups) per 100 square feet into the top 4” to 6” of soil.
Bulbs: Place 1 tsp. per bulb in the hole prior to planting.
Potting Mixes: Mix 9 lbs. per cu. yd. or 1 cup per cu. ft.
New Lawns: Apply 10 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. prior to seeding or installing sod.

Bio-tone Starter Plus Application Table:

pipeline said:

Flower Beds: Mix 4 lbs. (12 cups) per 100 square feet into the top 4” to 6” of soil.
Bulbs: Place 1 tsp. per bulb in the hole prior to planting.
Potting Mixes: Mix 9 lbs. per cu. yd. or 1 cup per cu. ft.
New Lawns: Apply 10 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. prior to seeding or installing sod.

Bio-tone Starter Plus Application Table:

Plant Size​	Cups​	Lbs.​
Up to Two Gallon	1​	1/3​
Five Gallon	2​	2/3​
Fifteen Gallon	4​	1-1/3​
24″ Ball	6​	2​
36″ Ball	24​	8​
48″ Ball	30​	10​

Click to expand...

Drip from top or wick from below depends top dressing and mixing in some cultivars get little burn others are unaffected and green up nicely. 1 cup per 5 gallon pot is a good top dress. Thats solid advice in that table based on my experience too I just go light so I can add more later. 2 month flower 1 cup per month
Maybe next time will try 2 cups and see how it goes Have to go back to my mix notes...

Thanks for taking time to add that nice table here

Glad to hear you have haven't had burn issues with it. I was using Garden tone, and tomato tone. Was using plant tone in the past. Yes still great products, but be conservative and be ready to water in case you see burn symptoms show up.

Slow release fertilizers like cottonseed meal have been shown to have good results this year. Not much risk of burn if its 100% slow release.

Lotsa good stuff here

Nursery manual for native plants: A guide for tribal nurseries

Provides a rich, natural source of potash​

is an ideal nutrient supplement​

Dramatically increase both the amount and size of blooms​

high-phosphorus​

Supplies three vital plant nutrients​

excellent source of readily available sulfur, potassium and magnesium





Containers:
Use 2-4 tbsp. (1-2 oz) per gallon of water depending on growth stage of plant.
Repeat application with each watering or as needed.



TOTAL NITROGEN (N) 2.0%
1.5% Water Soluble Nitrogen
0.5% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
AVAILABLE PHOSPHATE (P2O5) 6.0%
SOLUBLE POTASH (K2O) 4.0%
SULFUR (S) 2.5%

Derived from:
Fish Protein Hydrolysate, Bone Meal, Langbeinite, Lysine, Molasses, Soy Protein Hydrolysate, Potassium Sulfate, Kelp (Ascophyllum nodosum), Potassium Hydroxide and Phosphoric Acid (for pH stabilization).

Efficient Delivery and Easy Uptake​

Our high performance wettable powders are designed to be mixed directly into water for efficient delivery and rapid uptake. They can be used in reservoirs, fertigation, drip irrigation or spray applications.




Fueled by all-natural carbohydrates, OIM-certified terpene and taste enhancer OG Organics™ Bud Candy® unlocks bigger yields of sweeter, aromatic flowers while also nourishing natural root zone microbes and creating the optimal conditions for increased nutrient absorption.

• Multiple carbohydrate sources increase terpene production for fragrant, flavorful flowers
• Helps feed natural beneficial microbes which increases nutrient absorption
• Plants enjoy a full tank of energy reserves they can tap into during ripening

OG Organics™ Bud Candy® is specially designed for use with diverse hydroponic growing media and all continuous liquid-feed growing systems such as aeroponics, drip irrigation and emitters, NFT, flood and drain, and deep water culture.
Cultivate bountiful yields bursting with lush, potent buds. A CDFA-OIM and OMRI certified organic input material, OG Organics™ Big Bud® bridges the gap between heavy harvests and all-natural ingredients. We’ve fortified this best-seller with the bud-bulking properties of fish protein hydrolysate, and optimal ratios of bloom boosting phosphorus and potassium. Calcium lignosulfonate, iron amino acid complex, magnesium and sulfur top off the biostimulant, offering your high-value crops a robust menu of micronutrients that fuel a productive flowering stage.

• 2:1 K to P ratio meets plants nutrient requirements, while safeguarding against heavy metal contamination
• Delivers secondary micronutrients that create ideal conditions for bud bulking
• 20 bioavailable amino acids create the framework for flowering

OG Organics™ Big Bud® is specially designed for use with diverse hydroponic growing media and all continuous liquid-feed growing systems such as aeroponics, drip irrigation and emitters, NFT, flood and drain, and deep water culture.

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Dry Molasses (Dried Molasses)

Dry molasses isn’t dried molasses. It’s a grain residue carrier, such as bits of soy meal, that is sprayed and covered with liquid molasses. It’s an excellent carbon source that stimulates beneficial microorganisms. And, it repels fire ants. Apply to soil for landscaping at 20 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. for ideal results. Farmers and ranchers can use it at much lower rates and still get acceptable results. As little as 100–200 lbs. per acre can be beneficial. Apply when the air and ground are dry to avoid creating a sticky mess. It cannot be mixed with water and sprayed.

The sugar level in quality dry molasses should be 42% percent vs. the 38% and less that is on the market. The Stockade dry molasses products contain the proper amount of sugar.



Dry molasses



Whats good? flower boosters ?

Dialed and delivered via drip during flowering period, down to earth has some nice micronized fertz that can be wetted as mixed and not clog emitters. One emitter per pot, also dont forget how water stress increases cannabinoid production up to like 70%

Increasing light intensity proportionally increases yield​

Compared with the 600 μmol m–2 s–1 treatment, increasing the PAR exposure by 1.6 times (i.e., 1,000 μmol m–2 s–1) increased inflorescence dry yield by the same magnitude. This implies that, for yield responses in this trial, the cannabis plants growing under 1,000 μmol m–2 s–1 were still on the linear phase of the light response curve (i.e., still operating at maximum quantum efficiency). This is also supported by the linear yield responses to increasing LI up to 1,800 μmol m–2 s–1 reported in Rodriguez-Morrison et al. (2021a). A linear yield response to a range of LIs that exceeds normal production levels (Potter and Duncombe, 2012), confers a relatively reliable and easily interpreted basic model for how cannabis yield responds to changes in LI. For example, a simple regression of the mean DWf at the three tested PPFD levels (i.e., for calculating slope) in the present study predicts that every additional 100 μmol m–2 s–1 of daily PAR will increase yield by 4.6 g/plant (i.e., 51 g m–2 at the present study’s planting density).

Many conflicting reports on this it may be cultivar specific ?
Huge terpene increases in your grow

Thanks for the interesting studies, and information on fertilizer. Great to see the scientific community studying cannabis. Looks like some great products, will have to see if I can source those here.

Its a balance. I try not to over do it and have excess fertilizer, but don't forget nitrogen in flower. Phosphate is an immobile nutrient and doesn't leach like N and K. I would like to see a study about how supplementation with N and P affects flowering onset.

Individually studying those would be nice to see
One study suggested in plant nutrition that plants are able to compensate missing nutrients

Its interesting to check the elements present in a healthy plant and an unhealthy plant for comparison
What is the max fert we need to take it to the healthiest best yield without over fertilization
Obviously we want the fullest genetic potential to be reached
Maximizing yields of every order is the end goal
Waste not



Liebig's Law of the Minimum was formulated by German scientist Justus von Liebig. It states that if one essential plant nutrient is deficient, plant growth will be poor even when all other essential nutrients are abundant.

Think there were 12 essential plant nutrients ?

Plants must obtain the following mineral nutrients from their growing medium:[2]

• the macronutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), sulfur (S), magnesium (Mg)
• the micronutrients (or trace minerals): iron (Fe), boron (B), chlorine (Cl), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu), molybdenum (Mo), nickel (Ni)

At least 17 elements are known to be essential nutrients for plants. In relatively large amounts, the soil supplies nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur; these are often called the macronutrients. In relatively small amounts, the soil supplies iron, manganese, boron, molybdenum, copper, zinc, chlorine, and cobalt, the so-called micronutrients. Nutrients must be available not only in sufficient amounts but also in appropriate ratios.


There it is also was the issue of nutrient lockout and PH solute at varying acidity levels
Then we get into cations and anions etc etc etc ... its a rabbit hole

What is the best PH for my cannabis soil ? Is acid rain bad ? Is H20 corrosive ?


No buffering ph in peat ?

Organic matter is the best at holding nutrients and water. Composted leaf litter has a 0.5 N rate.

Thats where we look at bulk density cec meq they all work together


Soil vs Peat which is better in say a indoor pot ? Considering CEC and bulk density

"
HO-339-W Pest Management of Hemp


The most common disease management tools among
hemp growers were hand-removal, pruning, and use
of resistant varieties (Figure 6). Sixty-seven percent
of stock growers, 60% of seedling growers, and 42%
of growers for harvest use hand-removal of diseased
tissue or plants. Similarly, Punja et al. (2021) found that
the main management options for powdery mildew
were removing and destroying diseased leaves, using
disease-free vegetative cuttings, and applying biological
controls. Seedling growers (40%) and stock growers
(33%) were more likely than growers for harvest (19%) to
choose varieties based on their disease tolerance. Stock
growers (47%) were more likely to prune as a disease
management practice than seedling growers (37%) and
growers for harvest (28%). Fungicide applications, field
selection (i.e., avoidance of fields with disease history),
and wider row spacing were selected by less than 30%
of growers. The least employed tool was crop rotation,
reported by less than 20% of hemp growers.

Disease Management
As we can see in Figure 4, a larger percentage of stock
growers reported experiencing hemp root and crown
diseases compared to growers for seedling or harvest.
The most common diseases in roots and crowns were
white mold (Sclerotinia sclerotiorum) and Botrytis
(Botrytis cinerea). Twenty-six percent of seedling
growers, 27% of stock growers, and 18% of growers
for harvest reported having white mold in their hemp
crowns. A fifth of growers have had Botrytis in their
hemp crown. Six percent of seedling growers, 13% of
stock growers, and 4% of growers for harvest reported
Pythium in hemp roots. Less than 7% of growers
reported Phytophthora and southern blight (Sclerotium
rolfsii) in hemp. Likewise, Punja (2021) found that the
principal pathogens that caused the most significant
impact in roots and crown on indoor hemp production
were Botrytis, Fusarium, and Pythium (Pythium
ultimum), and losses due to the last two diseases can be
as high as 30% of the crop.

Among hemp leaf diseases, most growers have
experienced powdery mildew and Septoria as a disease
on leaves. Twenty-nine percent of seedling growers,
20% of stock growers, and 19% of growers for harvest
experienced powdery mildew. Twenty-seven percent
of stock growers, 20% of seedling growers, and 18%
of growers for harvest have had Septoria. Similarly,
Dixon et al. (2022) found that the most frequent
disease in cannabis is powdery mildew, and there is no
resistant variety for this disease yet (Stack et al., 2021).
Sixteen and 9% of growers for harvest and seedlings,
respectively, have experienced hemp leaf spot, and
less than 9% of all grower types have experienced rust
and bacterial blight in their hemp. No more than 3% of
growers for seedlings and harvest reported viruses in
hemp. Only 1% of growers for harvest reported downy
mildew in their hemp. In our survey, we inquired about
the presence of Cercospora, Pphoma, and Phomopsis
in hemp, and none of the participating growers reported
any encounters with these diseases (Figure 5).

www.planetnatural.com/product/organic-neem-cake

This is a easy alternative to predatory nematodes, which is healthier in the finished product? If vegative material is to be smoked...maybe the nematode is the more expensive but better choice... its been shown that soil chemicals industrial or organic can find their way into a plant.

I have a scientific research paper on this where pimethrins were found in the exhaled smoke from soil applications... so how the substances got in the finished product thru uptake by the plant or overspray on the plant is a matter for further investigation.

Will try to add the paper next time..
Feel free to google it and post your findings

Also neem may disrupt some of the bio active beneficials... that needs to be balanced against the good it will do.

Any suggestions for organic insect controls?
In living soil it seems to always be a concern

acespicoli said:

Any suggestions for organic insect controls?
In living soil it seems to always be a concern

Click to expand...

I like predators but sometimes u just have to spray when you grow constant. A break and a deep clean works also good but with living soil this is not that easy when constant reusing the soil.

Predator mites are a good option but have to be used right. They need higher rh% to thrive than found in a bloom room. So you have raise the humidity if u want to use them. Because of that i prefere chrysoperla as predators they only need constand temps above 19°C(66f) to thrive. I was thinking if its possible to breed them indoors but they need honeydew for their reproduction cycle.

Predators are best used as an ipm and not to eradicate an infection. Most of the time they balance each out like in nature so an infestion can only be reduced. So better tilt that balance to the predator side constant so no pest can settle down.

The chrysoperla didn't work so well on thrips they just reduced them a little also neem, pyrethrine or spinosad only reduced them. The problem with them is they have part of their life cycle in the soil so spraying isn't enough. But i got rid of them with macrocheles robustulus. These mites live in the soil and feed on the chrysalises that fall from the plants. They were quite expensive for 95 euro per dose but that should work for up to 200m2 so dev overkill for my homegrow but i did put them in every pot with soil i had no matter what plant was growing in.

Spidermites is something that i have regular at summertimes because i bring them in from my balcony. This year i have white clover as covercrop and they worked nice as an indicator plant so i sprayed everything with spinosad and never saw spidermites on my plants. I'm half way through a ~20 weeks bloom cycle so i will dev spray 2 or 3 more times to make sure they are all dead. Nothing to spray i have tries against spidermites works so good and fast as spinosad. Predators never killed all so they always bounced back after some times. It's from an bacteria so i consider it as organic but i would never use it outdoors as it can harm bees but indoors i'm fine with it. It should be gone after some weeks, faster when hit by light. I try to aim for min 6 weeks till harvest for the last application. I have tried essential oils but they can harm the plants but and never worked good for me. The harming of the plants was also the reason not to usw it as ipm.

With a new soil mix i always get fungus gnats. Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis and nematodes worked fine against them but bti is the more cost effective and is more practical to use. Both did cost about the same but nematodes was a single dose that was transported with an coolpack and the bti was multiple doses as pills. They also didn't kill all but 99,9999% and i can live with the few survivors that can't get overhand any more. When i think of it i use the bti once in a cycle most of the time at the start.

chilliwilli said:

I like predators but sometimes u just have to spray when you grow constant. A break and a deep clean works also good but with living soil this is not that easy when constant reusing the soil.

Predator mites are a good option but have to be used right. They need higher rh% to thrive than found in a bloom room. So you have raise the humidity if u want to use them. Because of that i prefere chrysoperla as predators they only need constand temps above 19°C(66f) to thrive. I was thinking if its possible to breed them indoors but they need honeydew for their reproduction cycle.

Predators are best used as an ipm and not to eradicate an infection. Most of the time they balance each out like in nature so an infestion can only be reduced. So better tilt that balance to the predator side constant so no pest can settle down.

The chrysoperla didn't work so well on thrips they just reduced them a little also neem, pyrethrine or spinosad only reduced them. The problem with them is they have part of their life cycle in the soil so spraying isn't enough. But i got rid of them with macrocheles robustulus. These mites live in the soil and feed on the chrysalises that fall from the plants. They were quite expensive for 95 euro per dose but that should work for up to 200m2 so dev overkill for my homegrow but i did put them in every pot with soil i had no matter what plant was growing in.

Spidermites is something that i have regular at summertimes because i bring them in from my balcony. This year i have white clover as covercrop and they worked nice as an indicator plant so i sprayed everything with spinosad and never saw spidermites on my plants. I'm half way through a ~20 weeks bloom cycle so i will dev spray 2 or 3 more times to make sure they are all dead. Nothing to spray i have tries against spidermites works so good and fast as spinosad. Predators never killed all so they always bounced back after some times. It's from an bacteria so i consider it as organic but i would never use it outdoors as it can harm bees but indoors i'm fine with it. It should be gone after some weeks, faster when hit by light. I try to aim for min 6 weeks till harvest for the last application. I have tried essential oils but they can harm the plants but and never worked good for me. The harming of the plants was also the reason not to usw it as ipm.

With a new soil mix i always get fungus gnats. Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis and nematodes worked fine against them but bti is the more cost effective and is more practical to use. Both did cost about the same but nematodes was a single dose that was transported with an coolpack and the bti was multiple doses as pills. They also didn't kill all but 99,9999% and i can live with the few survivors that can't get overhand any more. When i think of it i use the bti once in a cycle most of the time at the start.

Click to expand...

Thats a wealth of knowledge there, im glad you took the time to share it. As you said the indoor pest management knowing the life cycle of the pest is a big part of proper treatment. You reminded me I wanted to post pictures of pests and the lifecycle info posters here in the future.





Updated: March 13, 2023

Diagnose Indoor Plant Problems ​

Symptoms of common houseplant problems.



Updated: March 13, 2023

Whiteflies on Indoor Plants ​

Whiteflies resemble tiny white moths and secrete sticky honeydew on houseplants.





Updated: March 13, 2023

Thrips on Indoor Plants ​

Thrips are very tiny insects that can leave irregular white streaks on houseplants.





Updated: March 13, 2023

Scale Insects on Indoor Plants ​

Scale insects can cause leaf yellowing, stunting, and dieback of indoor plants. Brown soft scale is a common pest of houseplants.





Updated: March 13, 2023

Spider Mites on Indoor Plants ​

Spider mites can cause fine white spots, yellowing, and browning on houseplants. Webbing may also be present.





Updated: March 13, 2023

Aphids on Indoor Plants ​

Aphids are small sucking insects that secrete sticky honeydew on houseplants.





Updated: March 13, 2023

Mealybugs on Indoor Plants ​

Mealybugs are insects covered with cottony white wax and may be found on houseplants.





Updated: March 13, 2023

Winter Indoor Plant Problems ​

Overwatering is the most common problem leading to problems with houseplants in the winter.





Updated: March 1, 2023

Fungus Gnats ​

Fungus gnats are tiny, black flies that are commonly seen around lamps, windows, and indoor plants with moist soil.





Updated: February 27, 2023

Introduction to Scale Insects ​

There are many scale insects that feed on plants. They are often overlooked because they are immobile but they can cause serious damage to all types of plants.

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Its useful to know the location to look for the life stage

as well as the days and be aware of overlapping stages with a estimate of 28 day life cycle treating twice in a month will be more effective than a single treatment for the fungus gnat.
For anyone just starting to get into potted plants indoors it can be a little overwhelming.
Once your familiar with the pests and treatments ... nothing to it.


Glad you reminded me about this Thank you!

Brass N Wood was just talking about how he sprays with BT up to a week before harvest for caterpillars. They are highly invasive outdoors in Southern California.

Botrytis bud rot (Botrytis cinerea), and Fusarium bud rot (F. solani, F. oxysporum)
These are especially troublesome near the coast in the summer due to high temperature and humidity.
There is controlling each mechanically or even some resistant plants also sulfur burners and gypsum people have said is effective.



Some of these pathogens can be found in municipal composted trees leaves that are disposed due to disease, although the composting temperatures are supposed to negate these issues they persist at times.
The Afghani genetics from the southern areas are more pre-disposed to drier conditions such as the "Desert of Death".
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dasht-e_Margo

As opposed to the northern genetics closer to the Wakhan Corridor which we would expect to be more resistant to wet and cold during the harvest months.

Of course keeping our organic plants healthy is the first line of defense
It often makes me thing if the organosulfur compounds are the plants natural defence aginst molds being sulfur based would be expected to fight molds


https://www.frontiersin.org/subjects/organosulfur-compounds#

many afghanis have the skunky odor central Asian domesticates


To think that all Afghani genetics are similar ?
Also young seedlings will commonly die to damping off where as a older plant would survive organic soil
This is also common in poorly cleaned hydro systems, just finished a great grow? New seeds dead plant?
All too common...

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It’s worth mentioning that your home’s humidity level may fluctuate as seasons change due to variations in outdoor temperatures. Thus, the table below shows the recommended humidity level based on the outdoor temperature.



Table 1: Optimum indoor humidity level based on the outdoor temperature. Source: hvac

How to Lower Your Home’s Humidity Levels​

Reaching the ideal indoor humidity range is necessary to keep your family from the dangers of mold. Here are some ways to reduce indoor humidity levels.

Invest in a Dehumidifier​

A dehumidifier makes a big difference in how humid your home is.
The primary role of a dehumidifier is to remove excess moisture from the air.


A dehumidifier is essential if you live in a humid climate. It also comes in handy if your home has recently experienced water leakage or flooding.


The best place to put the dehumidifier is closest to the moisture source. For a multi-level home, you can place the dehumidifier in the basements.

Use an Air Conditioner​

Most people only use air conditioners to cool indoor air. However, these devices also reduce indoor air humidity.


For maximum efficiency, you should set your air conditioner to around 23.89-25.56°C (75-78°F). With time, you’ll notice a significant difference in humidity levels in your home.

Improving Ventilation​

Improving airflow throughout the house is one of the most effective ways to reduce indoor humidity.


Sufficient ventilation disperses water vapor from areas of high concentration, like the kitchen, laundry room, and bathroom.


Luckily, there are many ways to improve ventilation in your home. Some of them include:


● Opening windows and doors whenever possible


● Investing in fans to help circulate air


● Using a ventilation system to regulate airflow

Increasing body water content​

Insects with a higher initial body water content have better survival rates during arid conditions than insects with a lower initial body water content.[3] Higher amounts of internal body water lengthen the time necessary to remove the amount of water required to kill the organism. The way in which body water content is increased may differ depending on the species.

The accumulation of glycogen during the insect larval stage has been linked to increased body water content and is likely a source of metabolic water during dry conditions.[4] Glycogen, a glucose polysaccharide, acts as an oxidative energy source during times of physiological stress. Because it binds up to five times its weight in bulk water, insects with increased levels of body glycogen also have higher amounts of internal water.[3] In general, insects selected for desiccation resistance also exhibit longer larval stages than those sensitive to desiccation.[5] This increase in development time is likely a response to the environment, allowing larvae more time to accumulate glycogen, and therefore more water before eclosion.

Another possible source contributing to higher levels of initial body water in insects is hemolymph volume. The insect equivalent to blood, hemolymph is the fluid found within the hemocoel, and is the largest pool of extracellular water within the insect body.[6] In the fruit-fly Drosophila melanogaster, flies selected for desiccation resistance also yielded higher amounts of hemolymph. Higher hemolymph volume is linked to an increase in carbohydrates, in particular trehalose, a common sugar found in many plants and animals with high desiccation resistance.[6] Drosophila melanogaster flies selected for desiccation resistance show a 300% increase in hemolymph volume compared to control flies, correlating to a similar increase in trehalose levels.[6] During periods of aridity, cells dehydrate and draw upon hemolymph stores to replenish intracellular water; therefore, insects with higher levels of this fluid are less prone to desiccation.

Insects may also increase body water content by simply feeding more often. Because sugar is slowly absorbed into the hemolymph at each meal, increasing the frequency at which the insect ingests a sugar source also increases its desiccation tolerance.[3] Furthermore, the crop may also act not only to store food prior to digestion but to provide an additional reservoir for water and sugar.[3]

Pest control​

Diatomite is of value as an insecticide because of its abrasive and physico-sorptive properties.[22] The fine powder adsorbs lipids from the waxy outer layer of the exoskeletons of many species of insects; this layer acts as a barrier that resists the loss of water vapour from the insect's body. Damaging the layer increases the evaporation of water from their bodies, so that they dehydrate, often fatally.

Arthropods die as a result of the water pressure deficiency, based on Fick's laws of diffusion. This also works against gastropods and is commonly employed in gardening to defeat slugs. However, since slugs inhabit humid environments, efficacy is very low. Diatomaceous earth is sometimes mixed with an attractant or other additives to increase its effectiveness.

The shape of the diatoms contained in a deposit has not been proven to affect their functionality when it comes to the adsorption of lipids; however, certain applications, such as that for slugs and snails, do work best when a particularly shaped diatom is used, suggesting that lipid adsorption is not the only factor involved. For example, in the case of slugs and snails, large, spiny diatoms work best to lacerate the epithelium of the mollusk. Diatom shells will work to some degree on the vast majority of animals that undergo ecdysis in shedding cuticle, such as arthropods or nematodes. It also may have other effects on lophotrochozoans, such as mollusks or annelids.

Medical-grade diatomite has been studied for its efficacy as a deworming agent in cattle; in both studies cited the groups being treated with diatomaceous earth did not fare any better than control groups.[23][24] It is commonly used in lieu of boric acid and can be used to help control and possibly eliminate bed bugs,[25] house dust mite, cockroach, ant, and flea infestations.[26]

Diatomaceous earth is widely applied for insect control in grain storage.[27]

In order to be effective as an insecticide, diatomaceous earth must be uncalcinated (i.e., it must not be heat-treated prior to application)[28] and have a mean particle size below about 12 μm (i.e., food grade—see below).

Although considered to be relatively low-risk, pesticides containing diatomaceous earth are not exempt from regulation in the United States under the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act and must be registered with the Environmental Protection Agency.[29]