htg 3.0 COBs... Good?

who needs censorship when you have the rampant overtaking of by fools all institutions formerly charged to share and hold knowledge.

Dense suckers and fools. What's on your mind Mr institution

I do not seek to censor you. I don't mind you attempting in some ways to censor me, but that is how it looks. What are you trying to achieve, ultimately? It is fascinating to me right now to wonder. What's on your mind?

Do you even swim bro?
I swim all the time if ya didn't know �� wink wink...wink...wink..

At least your post counts building on the bright side..to be positive and all

You like backstroke freestyle 50m 25m....you just smoke bong rips like Phelps maybe in yer institution. Or maybe you stalk people who swim?

Eh..screw this chump. Back to the subject.wanna grow good weed? Cmh with dimmable ballast and a hydrofarm ac hood will run in your pants without setting your balls on fire

Guys... wtf.

Take the squabbling to PMs. You just cluttered up 2 pages with useless shit.

This grow area is built behind a hidden wall. The lung room it is hidden into has an AC unit to cool it. It also has an in wall hot air heater for the cold winter should the lights not be enough. Passive intake brings it fresh air through a vent in the wall. Within that cavity are my passive intake pipes which bring the treated air into the bottom of the flower cab. The bends in the pipes kill the light leaks if there even were any (unlikely, but for good measure- think NGB principles.)

stacked on top of the flower cab is the mother/clone chamber. It doesn't run the full length of the flower cab. This allows me a 21 x 24 x 36 utility room / direct line exhaust and carbon filter that runs directly through the top of the flower cab and out the ceiling into a much larger space. A sweep Y fitting links the mother/flower cab exhaust pipe before it all hits the carbon scrubber.

ONA gel for good measure. Possibly a small desktop style ozone generator also.

SOG. Hence the STEALTH AF. Also why I'm here to figure which LED set up, if any, will grow filled out bud sticks down to the just about the 1st node.


Mother/clone cab is 288w of PLL. 1) 96w and 2) 55w. (already have the gear- no added expense in switching to LED, but possibly plan to down the road)

Flower cab- possible light set ups I'm mulling over:

1) 250w HPS on a light mover

1) 175w MH + 1) 150w HPS dual bulb hood on a light mover

1) 315w CMH on a light mover

1) 250hps + 1) 175MH dual bulb hood on a light mover

1) 400w MH on a light mover

1) HLG 300 qb on a light mover (expensive)

1)HLG 550 V2 on a light mover (expensive)

1)- some other off the shelf LEGIT led system that actually gets results



I currently have a 600w hps (wasn't planning to use it unless I buy a magnetic ballast due to current digital ballast set up. And I have the 400w MH which I might just say fuck it and run for flower)

All HID set ups WILL be magnetic remote ballast to manage heat and eliminate RFI leak potential.

I WILL NOT RUN DIGITAL BALLASTS AT ALL. (cell phone tower ON PREMISES)- so you guys worry about RFI leaks... fuck, there better not be ANY chance of an RFI leak where I am because the guys who check that shit are constantly around.


SOOOO... To get this back on track.

Are there any documented, solid performing LED lighting systems, backed up by yields, that I can look into as a possible way to drop some heat or wattage, but still get HID results based on the HID set up options I listed above?


I wasn't aware COBs through a lot of heat. This makes sense to me being a powerful diode, but I have no first hand experience with managing heat from LEDs. I am only familiar with HID systems as it is all I used since my first CFL set up way back.

Hey Elephunk,

Kind of just skimmed through, might’ve missed some important details, but if you’re only dealing with 22” of width, then I’d think you’d be best to go with a build-it-yourself kit. Have you looked at Rapid LED? Maybe something like this: https://www.rapidled.com/vero29se-2-x-4-grow-kit/

Pretty close to the coverage you’re looking for. And if you wanted you could hang a single light at each end, to round it out, if you felt it necessary. Just a thought.

I grew for years with a 2:1 HPS/MH ratio. This past year I did two runs with a 420w COB panel. I am currently considering getting the HLG 550 V2 that you mentioned. Will likely pull the trigger real soon.

It’s different, growing without HID. It’s still a learning curve. I can’t say if QBs or COB yield as well because I am not comparing apples to apples in terms of actual wattage drawn, or with a chosen clone. I was generally running 1500w of HID. So 420w is a far cry from that. But with my days of yield being important largely behind me, I am willing to experiment. And I really like the idea of being done with bulbs, replacing and disposing of. Mostly though, I like not having to have air cooled hoods. This panel, with passive heat sinks, is silent.

I have found decent yield with better than expected penetration. And the heat-load isn't as much as a 400w HID. I didn't play with distance for these test runs. The light was left all the way up without being adjusted to optimum height above the canopy. Here's a few plants from my most recent grow:





If you're only looking to supply yourself from that cab, I think you'll find that yield will be fine with COB or QBs.

Yeah I just think its a waste to go HID with such little width. Maybe 250 on a mover, but that is using more electricity in cooling and moving, plus ballast waste plus waste in height to manage cool tube or just space for the hood/bulb, that any penetration you get from it would be wasted in the distance from bulb to plant. Plus the 22" depth, again. And ultimately, with one, say 315w, what would you yield? Then factor in extra electricity usage to move and cool the bulb, sure not much more, but still waste, plus bulbs, plus having possible issues with climate control due to excess heat during lights on/disparity between lights on and off temps.

COBs seemed to need extra height too since they are a concentrated spot of light, unlike a spread of diodes much larger in surface area.

Yeah I just don't see the point in going hid with only 22" depth. That limits how big of a system, like 250 would probably be it, but penetration with a 250 is no better than with leds, plus leds can get much closer to the canopy. It looks to me like you would be spending more $ on the bulb, light mover, ballast waste, overhead height wasted for hood or cooltube, extra ducting and clamps, having to remote the ballast, all those things that could end up costing you more than the increase (if any) in yield could possibly justify.

Plus, you only have 22" depth, so really any hid would be wasted since so much of the light would be hitting the walls, probably at a height that can't be used by the plants due to IR heat.

And you are mentioning RF interference, well there is also IR that can be tracked, if you are paranoid about that kind of stuff. IR is plentiful in HID bulbs, but much lower in LED.

COBs just don't make much sense for small spaces since they are concentrated basically spot lights. The concept as a whole doesn't even make sense, since if you separated all those tiny leds, beefed them up so they can handle more power individually, and then run them at about 50% power, they will be ultimately more efficient and cast a better, more even light to your canopy. Thus more direct light, less refracted/reflected off walls light and therefor exponentially weaker beams of light as you get with more traditional indoor light sources like hid or any system that uses singly points of light, like a bulb.

Due to the spot light type of light COBs emit, they too need to be placed up further above the canopy, thereby wasting space that could otherwise be filled with buds.

To me, spreading those diodes out on a larger surface that then will stay cooler and thus run more efficiently, makes infinitely more sense than either HID or COB, at least in a confined space where efficiency is paramount.

Strip lights can take that form, doesn't have to be the panels made by any specific company. The exact same boards or strips can be bought on Alibaba from the same manufacturers that all these new companies are using for a bit of saving, especially if you are buying in larger quantities that can justify the "engineering/tooling" fees those vendors like to add on. Just make sure you are getting legit samsung diodes.

crappy lights off pic but I can upload a better one when lights are on. Tried to get the whole space all the way to the back but had a tough time keeping everything in focus. Buds are pretty stacked, could have been better trained, but this grow was a last minute decision to use up some plants that were just sitting around. These still have time to plump up. First run with these LEDs, so yield is not something I can give numbers on, but other LED units, mars style etc, have done fairly well, matching what I am used to with HPS. These are pulling half the wattage and look to be around the same size and very dense, as usual for this particular cut. Three weeks left to go, so I expect these things to swell quite a bit more. Better training, less veg, and more pruning the bottoms and leaves would have put the plants ahead of where they are now.

meant to add, a very generous cut of some kind of cookie, possibly one of the original GSCs but could be a cross or something.

sorry keep forgetting pertinent details. Titled the image with all info, but not sure you can see that title. These are two 65 watt panels, so 130 watts total. In the past I have used two 130w mars style boxes so if I can pull the same yield with half the power I will be happy. Much less heat too.

Phelps,

Have the mover from previous 2k set up. no investment there.

The IR won't be an issue. Heat in the box is also not an issue- AC treated air. The RFI on the other hand could be an issue so I was going to only do magnetic if it was HID.

Do the LED drivers emit any RFI? I'm thinking no, but want to be sure.


I'm thinking I'm leaning right now between a HLG quantum kit and a single 315 cmh.


As far as the kits go. I'm looking at the 320w XL QB V2 + a 135w QB V2 to make up for the shorter fixture length. That gives me pretty much full lighting across the entire top of the cab without any blank spots.

And then dial back the draw until I figure out the best draw/intensity for good results.



The other option I'm considering... Go with 4) 135W QB V1/V2 in different spectrums from one side of the cab to the other. left side starts flower at 5k, transitions to 2) fixtures at 4k, and finishes flower under 3k.

This is a perpetual SOG set up. So they're going to be moved down the line towards the chopping door.

Not sure if that would do anything good. Or if just an even 4k through the whole thing would be the way to go.



Ditch the light mover concept and hang up at the ceiling of the cab with fans to move air to around the heat sinks/ between the canopy.


The smaller qbs... Does the driver play any affect on the system?

I'm not sure the driver on say a 550w would change the affects vs whatever driver is on the 135w.

Smug_Pepe said:

HTG = High Tech Garbage

Click to expand...

Could not have said it better myself, absolute trash.

oldgrayhair said:

Could not have said it better myself, absolute trash.

Click to expand...

Who would you recommend?

sdd,

horticulture lighting group

All I’m looking at now with LED. Still researching people’s results with QBs before I make a final. Their gear looks good.

It’s a pricey mistake to get wrong though which is why I’m a bit guarded on the whole LED thing.

I’m out on any COB set ups at this point I think. Don’t really want to start making my own fixtures and shit. Too much time involved.

Beyond that I haven’t seen many recs on off the shelf proven performers for LED set up.

Any of you heard of or tried Synce LED gear? Just found out about it and started looking into their models. They have a 250w and the 150w coming out soon. Their 600w looks cool too.