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Appropriate driver for 2x QB288 V2

AgentPothead

AgentPothead

Just this guy, ya know?
Hey guys I was looking at picking up https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/products/qb288-v2-slate-2-double-combo?variant=12288115310684 and I am wondering which driver would be best.
https://www.mouser.com/Optoelectron...HLG-240H-C-Series/_/N-b1asl?P=1ykmcbwZ1yxt7aq
I matched the part number so both of those should be the correct one, but there is a 10$ difference and I'm not exactly sure why except the ingress protections seem to be 65 vs 67. Would it matter which one of those I grabbed? Thanks.
 
AgentPothead

AgentPothead

Just this guy, ya know?
Yeah that is my choices on that mouser link, I'm just not sure if I want the C2100A or the C2100B the only difference seems to be the IP rating.
 
AgentPothead

AgentPothead

Just this guy, ya know?
So looking at the spec sheet, the difference between the A and the B, besides 12$ and IP 65/67, is that the A has a built in potentiometer to change intensity while the B seems to use power width modulation over one of the wires to change intensity. I'm guessing that's for larger setups where things are automated by computer. So the one I should get is the https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...gmIgt4sE%2bg9jfCg%2beum/b/d%2bWBVZR1IZQle2w== I'm pretty sure. Thanks troutman. :tiphat:
 
warpese

warpese

Active member
Veteran
AgentPothead said:
So looking at the spec sheet, the difference between the A and the B, besides 12$ and IP 65/67, is that the A has a built in potentiometer to change intensity while the B seems to use power width modulation over one of the wires to change intensity. I'm guessing that's for larger setups where things are automated by computer. So the one I should get is the https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...gmIgt4sE%2bg9jfCg%2beum/b/d%2bWBVZR1IZQle2w== I'm pretty sure. Thanks troutman. :tiphat:
Click to expand...

hi AgentPothead, you're wrong. the B model allows to install the dimmer in a remote position, it is not necessarily useful for large configurations. if you install the driver in an uncomfortable position, model b is recommended because it allows you to install the dimmer wherever you want.
if instead you install the driver in an accessible place the model A will be more than adequate

my 2 cent :tiphat:
 
AgentPothead

AgentPothead

Just this guy, ya know?
warpese said:
hi AgentPothead, you're wrong. the B model allows to install the dimmer in a remote position, it is not necessarily useful for large configurations. if you install the driver in an uncomfortable position, model b is recommended because it allows you to install the dimmer wherever you want.
if instead you install the driver in an accessible place the model A will be more than adequate

my 2 cent :tiphat:
Click to expand...
Alright, that makes sense. Thanks for the information. :tiphat: At least I got the right model :D
 
ReikoX

ReikoX

Knight of the BlackSvn
FWI the B drivers use a 3-in-one dimming option. They will do resistance (remote pot), PWM, and 0-10VDC. I've done both resistance and PWM with them and prefer the PWM.
 
AgentPothead

AgentPothead

Just this guy, ya know?
Okay that's what the 3 in 1 means. How do you control the PWM are you using an arduino or am I over thinking this?
 
ReikoX

ReikoX

Knight of the BlackSvn
Controlling PWM with an arduino is fairly straight forward. Plenty of tutorials online.

I'm using a BlueFish LED controller for my PWM. It is a spendy piece of kit, but I can control six channels, remotely from my phone, transition between morning midday evening and night, simulate weather at geographic locations, and probably other things I haven't even figured out yet.
 
warpese

warpese

Active member
Veteran
ReikoX said:
Controlling PWM with an arduino is fairly straight forward. Plenty of tutorials online.

I'm using a BlueFish LED controller for my PWM. It is a spendy piece of kit, but I can control six channels, remotely from my phone, transition between morning midday evening and night, simulate weather at geographic locations, and probably other things I haven't even figured out yet.
Click to expand...

ReikoX this sounds great, I'll go look for it :tiphat:
 
AgentPothead

AgentPothead

Just this guy, ya know?
brickweeder said:
RX, can you elaborate why you like the PWM over the pot.? I haven't done PWM yet, mostly because a pot. is passive.
Click to expand...
If I had to guess, it's cause he has that sweet controller that lets him control everything from his phone, which basically means from anywhere. A lot easier than having to physically turn a pot each time :)
 
ReikoX

ReikoX

Knight of the BlackSvn
AgentPothead said:
If I had to guess, it's cause he has that sweet controller that lets him control everything from his phone, which basically means from anywhere. A lot easier than having to physically turn a pot each time :)
Click to expand...

That, and I find the PWM much more accurate as well. With the pot, its impossible to know exactly how much power you are using without a meter of some sort. I also find it difficult to dim the pot just a little, it is very sensitive. With PWM, I can set it to 50% exactly.
 
brickweeder

brickweeder

Well-known member
Thanks AP and RX. Even though I use the old school Pot. + Killawatt to determine LED power, PWM sounds like fun...will have to get a project going.
 
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