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AN CarboLoad, is it really that good?

W

Well

Member
i just got a bag of Carboload (not the liqiud one) for free.

Iv read about it now, and as i see it, its almost the same thing as molasses.

Does carboload really improve yield and quality that much? I also got a bag of Big Bud from AN.
It would be interesting to here ~how much it has increased your harvest and or potency.

Best regards
 
rangergord

rangergord

Active member
1. Don't look a gift horse in the mouth.

2. I have used their freebies as well with AN 3 part. They grew plants well. No control plot so impossible to say if yeild or potency was higher. And thats just how AN would like it stay. Then there's no one around to dispute their 2 pound + claims after a customer spends hundred and thousands on their snake oil. This is true of all fertilizer companies. The hype of fabulous crops if you just use their magic juice is what fortunes are built on.
 
S

sourpuss

I use an product and love it... might be expensive but I know its gonna give me great results... if your a huge com grower might get pricey but for the hobbist... its great.... things like molasses as a substitute for carboload.... tried it and guess what.... it fucks shit up... works for organics..... dont put that molasses in your res.... or dwc.... or soiless medium feeds the good and bad bacteria..... prob the bads gonna win...

Advanced makes things easier... takes a bite out your wallet but no bugs or probs saves you in the end... deficiencies all cleared up as I slowly switched over to advanced ph perf... grow and bloom.

Anyone know how to use carboload correctly? Just bought a bottle... using 1 ml per litre atm... in flower... when do I stop using it in flower?
 
A

acridlab

^^ it's recommended @ 2ml per liter,, but I usually stick with 5ml per gallon..n I have the best results when I cut it out early week 6 on a ten week strain.. all sugars for that matter.. get whiter cleaner ash.
 
S

sourpuss

Thank you acrid... so im guessing just past half way thru flower its to be stopped...

Wonder if anyone uses full strength on these advanced products. 5 ml per gallon is just over a ml per litre... so we r both on the same page... also I use 2ml per litre grow or bloom instead of the recommended 4 ml...
 
A

acridlab

sourpuss said:
Thank you acrid... so im guessing just past half way thru flower its to be stopped...

Wonder if anyone uses full strength on these advanced products. 5 ml per gallon is just over a ml per litre... so we r both on the same page... also I use 2ml per litre grow or bloom instead of the recommended 4 ml...
Click to expand...

anytime,, n some people run sugars all the way till the end and thru flush,, but i swear in peat based mediums,, that technique gives u thick black ash.. burns shitty.. but I've also had pros tell me I'm nuts,, so who knows.
when it comes to running full strength with a.n,, i would not recommend it unless u have a very hungry specimen.. most of my hybrids will tap out at 5ml a gallon with the sensi a/b..and the same amount of big bud,, n overdrive.. thats my sweet spot with advanced and my water source.. 5ml a gal,,all the way across the board with they're products .. works perfect for me and its cost effective.. win win
 
S

sourpuss

Sweet just the info I was actually gonna ask.. so is that your lineup? Sensi a b, carboload till halfway. Big bud n overdrive to the flush? 5mls a gallon.... all the way across the board... I guess increasing the big bud and decreasing a b doesnt do anything as u get closer to harvest.... although I might give it a shot...

Any advice you can give me would appreciate it... looking to take my stuff another notch... as we all r.. hopefully...
 
N

NEGT1

Member
I run pretty much everything at 8-10ml a gallon other than budswel and hi brix. Bud Candy is carboload with other additives as well. I cut out organics around week 6-7 and everything else around week 8 if the strain goes 63-70 days.

Quite honestly AN isn't that expensive when compared to Canna.

I've messed around with a lot of different mixes from AN to Canna to GH, they'll all give good results but the environment remains to be one of the most important factors. I use Sensi, voodoo, b-52, bud candy, big bud, overdrive, cannazyme, gh calimagic, budswel and hi brix. Of course you can grow a decent garden with only a base, but I'm down with the results I'm getting with what I use.
 
S

sourpuss

Wicked more great info. Thx bro! These lineups you experienced guys use r goldmine information... along with the mls per gallon...



So many variables... what a plant.... :)
 
A

acridlab

Yeah, that's my favorite lineup.. lately I'm loving botanicare kind for veg and first two weeks of bloom.. so on a ten week strain, I do this with great results..

Week one
kind series,, 2.5 ml. Gal. All three parts
Week two the same..
Week three hit em with the sensi /big bud/carboload or budcandy 5ml. Gal everything.
Repeat weeks 456,, "n I stop the carbo or bud candy in early 6"
Week 7/8 I rock just the sensi base and overdrive..
Weeks 9/10 just ph'ed h20. That's it,, simple n it's cheaper than most lines out
.oh,, keep in mind, I'm using spring fed well water that's 175 ppm.. u might wanna tweak things a lil if ur gonna try this.. but honestly,, I've ran quite a few lines now, and for ease of mixing and the end results,, this recipe is the shit.. oh,, I do ph to 6.2 in peat even tho it says oh perfect technology,, I still ph my shit.... habit I can't get out of..anyhow,, try it out, let me know how it works for ya,, peace
 
P

papaduc

Active member
Veteran
sourpuss said:
I use an product and love it... might be expensive but I know its gonna give me great results

Advanced makes things easier... takes a bite out your wallet but no bugs or probs saves you in the end... deficiencies all cleared up as I slowly switched over to advanced ph perf... grow and bloom.
Click to expand...

There's nothing easier than a 1-part base feed, and you should never see issues unless you're over or under feeding with it.

Advanced nutrients are a choice, but they're no better than anything else on the market. The only real difference I can see between them and other products is that they're watered down more. Some of their products have as little as 0.5% of an available element in them.

They're primarily aimed at people with little knowledge of plant feeding or gardening in general, and their products are formulated so you can use 10 bottles without overfeeding. Without 99% of those bottles being nothing more than water, that wouldn't be possible.

They'll work, like any other nutrient, and if you like using them that's fine. But there's no difference in the quality of minerals they use compared to any other company. Just be aware of that.
 
A

acridlab

Not saying there's no truth to the above,, but I don't get why people always say a.n is watered down, cuz when I use full strength, I'll burn the living shit out a crop..
And I've tried;
Gen. Hydro
Gen. Organics
Gen. Maxibloom
Roots organic
Fox farms
Botanicare
House and garden
Humboldt county
Humboldt county's own
Dynagro
Heavy 16
And a few others I'm forgetting
All I can say is,, for the ease of mixing and the quality of end product,, a.n wins in my setup.. by a noticeable difference.
Peace
 
P

papaduc

Active member
Veteran
acridlab said:
Not saying there's no truth to the above,, but I don't get why people always say a.n is watered down, cuz when I use full strength, I'll burn the living shit out a crop..
Click to expand...

Their base nutes are probably in line with a lot of other companies. I know they based a formula on GH 3 part, and let's face it, all hydro nutes are mostly water, that's just a fact. But, when you look at the whole AN line you have to just look at the product labels of some of the things they sell you realise how they market their stuff. There's absolutely no reason, except one, that 5 or more of those bottles couldn't be combined into one - money.

I've got no agenda, I'm just telling the truth based on what I know and what I've learned over the years. There's only one point of me posting here and that's to share what I know with people who might not.

The simple truth of it, from a completely impartial perspective, is that those bottles are set up for the sole reason of generating as much money as possible from simple mineral elements marketed as individual components in a complex system which, when combined, each give your plant a different thing which will boost your yields.

The truth is, it's a simple matter of marketing. The big bold stickers and overstated claims about what to expect from the products are a worm on a hook. There's very little truth to any of it, if any at all.

Always be dubious when you hear about "secret ingredients"
Always.

The reason nutrient companies market products like this is because by law they're obligated to disclose the minimum amount of mineral elements in a product sold as plant food. But they don't have to disclose things like sugars, or seaweed for example, other than to say they're there. That's why on the side of some AN product you'll see "0.5% magnesium" But the label talks about all the other different things and the benefits of these magic ingredients. The truth is, all you know for sure is in there in any amount, is half a percent of magnesium. The vast majority of the bottle is water, just like you could get out of your tap.

I'd estimate the price of each bottle of that stuff to be less than 50c. That's my honest to god estimate. I'd say maybe as low as 5-10c on a bottle in terms of raw ingredients. The only cost to them is the production of the bottle itself and the stickers to go onto them, and the manufacture and shipment of them. It's an astronomical markup which people are willing to pay because of the way they're advertised.

I honestly hope the laws change and companies have to disclose exactly what is in the bottle, because when/if it does, the floor will fall through on these companies and you will see what they have been selling all along, and most importantly, how cheap those same ingredients are to source elsewhere.
 
G

glow

Active member
papaduc said:
Their base nutes are probably in line with a lot of other companies. I know they based a formula on GH 3 part, and let's face it, all hydro nutes are mostly water, that's just a fact. But, when you look at the whole AN line you have to just look at the product labels of some of the things they sell you realise how they market their stuff. There's absolutely no reason, except one, that 5 or more of those bottles couldn't be combined into one - money.

I've got no agenda, I'm just telling the truth based on what I know and what I've learned over the years. There's only one point of me posting here and that's to share what I know with people who might not.

The simple truth of it, from a completely impartial perspective, is that those bottles are set up for the sole reason of generating as much money as possible from simple mineral elements marketed as individual components in a complex system which, when combined, each give your plant a different thing which will boost your yields.

The truth is, it's a simple matter of marketing. The big bold stickers and overstated claims about what to expect from the products are a worm on a hook. There's very little truth to any of it, if any at all.

Always be dubious when you hear about "secret ingredients"
Always.

The reason nutrient companies market products like this is because by law they're obligated to disclose the minimum amount of mineral elements in a product sold as plant food. But they don't have to disclose things like sugars, or seaweed for example, other than to say they're there. That's why on the side of some AN product you'll see "0.5% magnesium" But the label talks about all the other different things and the benefits of these magic ingredients. The truth is, all you know for sure is in there in any amount, is half a percent of magnesium. The vast majority of the bottle is water, just like you could get out of your tap.

I'd estimate the price of each bottle of that stuff to be less than 50c. That's my honest to god estimate. I'd say maybe as low as 5-10c on a bottle in terms of raw ingredients. The only cost to them is the production of the bottle itself and the stickers to go onto them, and the manufacture and shipment of them. It's an astronomical markup which people are willing to pay because of the way they're advertised.

I honestly hope the laws change and companies have to disclose exactly what is in the bottle, because when/if it does, the floor will fall through on these companies and you will see what they have been selling all along, and most importantly, how cheap those same ingredients are to source elsewhere.
Click to expand...

Amen to that brother. Nicely put.
 
G

glow

Active member
acridlab said:
Not saying there's no truth to the above,, but I don't get why people always say a.n is watered down, cuz when I use full strength, I'll burn the living shit out a crop..
And I've tried;
Gen. Hydro
Gen. Organics
Gen. Maxibloom
Roots organic
Fox farms
Botanicare
House and garden
Humboldt county
Humboldt county's own
Dynagro
Heavy 16
And a few others I'm forgetting
All I can say is,, for the ease of mixing and the quality of end product,, a.n wins in my setup.. by a noticeable difference.
Peace
Click to expand...

To ANs credit they do supply relatively concentrated formulas (at a massive premium). Shame they talk so much shit and con growers into believing that you need a million additives to achieve genetic potential.
 
G

glow

Active member
sourpuss said:
I use an product and love it... might be expensive but I know its gonna give me great results... if your a huge com grower might get pricey but for the hobbist... its great.... things like molasses as a substitute for carboload.... tried it and guess what.... it fucks shit up... works for organics..... dont put that molasses in your res.... or dwc.... or soiless medium feeds the good and bad bacteria..... prob the bads gonna win...

Advanced makes things easier... takes a bite out your wallet but no bugs or probs saves you in the end... deficiencies all cleared up as I slowly switched over to advanced ph perf... grow and bloom.

Anyone know how to use carboload correctly? Just bought a bottle... using 1 ml per litre atm... in flower... when do I stop using it in flower?
Click to expand...

Molasses is about the best bennie food you will find (extremely high TDN) so this advice is both good and bad. I.e. if using bennies molasses provides their food source (e.g. carbon and sugars/carbohydrates). However, if you aren't adding bennies to the nutrient and have shit nutrient tank maintenance practices molasses can promote pathogenic bacteria and/or fungi.

Same thing with Carboload which is nothing more than sugar (250g/L glucose). It can promote both good or bad bacteria and fungi. Frankly, I find it scary how people get on forums with very limited knowledge and say things that are completely lacking in understanding the science (yo bro you don't even know the actives). Save yourself some dollars and run off to the supermarket and purchase some glucose. Whack it in your nutrient tank with some decent fulvic acid and viola you have carboload. Would I use it??? Hell no! :)
 
S

sourpuss

glow said:
Molasses is about the best bennie food you will find (extremely high TDN) so this advice is both good and bad. I.e. if using bennies molasses provides their food source (e.g. carbon and sugars/carbohydrates). However, if you aren't adding bennies to the nutrient and have shit nutrient tank maintenance practices molasses can promote pathogenic bacteria and/or fungi.

Same thing with Carboload which is nothing more than sugar (250g/L glucose). It can promote both good or bad bacteria and fungi. Frankly, I find it scary how people get on forums with very limited knowledge and say things that are completely lacking in understanding the science (yo bro you don't even know the actives). Save yourself some dollars and run off to the supermarket and purchase some glucose. Whack it in your nutrient tank with some decent fulvic acid and viola you have carboload. Would I use it??? Hell no! :)
Click to expand...

Ive been trying molasses for a while... ive listened to all the save ypur dollars and dont buy the hype.. if your organic cool molasses is great... I guarantee your not hydro running molasses... just cause I ask questions makes me uneducated eh? Molasses for me spells fungas gnats... when I use coco... not saying it caused it but it helped it...

Im very clear when I say molasses is good for organics but suck for just abouy everything else.... am I wrong?

So this is about an carboload... mainly hydro/fake organics... and molasses is what you guys think people should add to the res? Hmmmm... this aint the organics section... thx for fucking up everyone with a res system...
 
G

glow

Active member
sourpuss said:
Ive been trying molasses for a while... ive listened to all the save ypur dollars and dont buy the hype.. if your organic cool molasses is great... I guarantee your not hydro running molasses... just cause I ask questions makes me uneducated eh? Molasses for me spells fungas gnats... when I use coco... not saying it caused it but it helped it...

Im very clear when I say molasses is good for organics but suck for just abouy everything else.... am I wrong?

So this is about an carboload... mainly hydro/fake organics... and molasses is what you guys think people should add to the res? Hmmmm... this aint the organics section... thx for fucking up everyone with a res system...
Click to expand...

Ugh safe to say I am hydroponics buddy (pretty much wrote the book on it). Actually aren't a fan of organics at all ==== see http://www.manicbotanix.com/hydroponic-grow-guide/hydroponics-v-organics.html. Google Integral Hydroponics. Sorry re fungus gnats but molasses sure as shit didn't cause that. Re this "Im very clear when I say molasses is good for organics but suck for just abouy everything else.... am I wrong?" Yes you are wrong.
 
S

sourpuss

Well maybe im wrong... wont be using molasses ever again to save a coupl3 bucks. All good. Does it not sludge up on you? Mold and clump with other nutrients?

And I will google that and have a read... cheers
 
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