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pH nightmares

nowist

New member
I am running a recirculating deep water culture and my pH climbs up to 8.1 from 6.1 in the course of the solutions's first 48 hours... using an ecoplus pump and chiller unit as well as air stones in each growing container? too much aeration?

any suggestions welcome...

using primarily advanced nutrients products
 

nowist

New member
pH is around 6.1 when I add solutions to "raw" water. I do use a crystalized citric acid for pH lowering. That works for about four hours and then the solution starts alkalizing again.
 

Haps

stone fool
Veteran
The citric is short term evidently, get new ph down, also, build your water in advance so it is stable.
H
 

SuperToker

Member
You could try switching to pure blend pro. I've never check my PH or TDS since the first run with PBP 3 years ago. You'll need PBP, cal-mag plus, and liquid karma.

You might want to first try contacting the guy at AN to see WTF is their problem. You can get a refund for all money you spent on their worthless gimmick nutrients.
 

mrwags

********* Female Seeds
ICMag Donor
Veteran
SuperToker said:
You could try switching to pure blend pro. I've never check my PH or TDS since the first run with PBP 3 years ago. You'll need PBP, cal-mag plus, and liquid karma.

You might want to first try contacting the guy at AN to see WTF is their problem. You can get a refund for all money you spent on their worthless gimmick nutrients.


Best advice I've seen in a while.


Mr.Wags
 

guineapig

Active member
Veteran
Reverse-Osmosis water is more likely to experience pH shifts because it lacks the buffering capabilities of tap water......this has been discussed at length in BigToke's thread.....it is a good read for people experiencing pH shifts in DWC environments:

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=8182&highlight=Big+Toke

Now the second issue here is very interesting.......it involves a very complex chemical process which i learned from reading scientific papers on pond ecology......the actual description of this chemical reaction is incredibly complex, but basically it boils down to this.....

When you introduce oxygen molecules into a body of water, the oxygen particles "kick out" all of the dissolved CO2 in that given body of water (in our case your reservoir)......the dissolved CO2 in a body of water is stored as "carbonic acid," which is slightly acidic.....so, when your airstone floods your water with oxygen, the pH shifts from slightly acidic (6.1) to a more alkaline level (8.1).....

If you don't believe me, try a simple experiment and you will be convinced.....get a glass of water and add a little bit of pH down (citric acid is fine) and pH test the water......or, you could get carbonated mineral water which has lots of CO2 dissolved in it and is naturally slightly acidic......then, take your air-pump and start bubbling in oxygen molecules.......since you have such a small body of water (only a few ounces), the pH shifts from slightly acidic to alkaline in a matter of seconds......test the pH of the aerated water and you will be convinced......

Certain nutrients seem to work better in DWC than others......i guess they all have different "buffering properties," but i wish someone would come out and design a nutrient solution specifically for DWC......there is a nutrient solution called "Sweet & Heavy" which is designed for "Organic Hydroponics," so that is a possibility that you might want to explore.....

Hopefully you will be able to get these pH shifts under control......if you have any more questions, feel free to pm me.....there are some good threads dealing with pH shifts herein, but the link i gave you to BigToke's thread is a great place to start...

:ying: kind regards from guineapig :ying:
 

lightmove

Member
I am having the same problem.
pH is changing from 5.5 to 6.5 in a hour.


1. I use tap water with pH 7.2
2. pH is lowered with nitrogen acid to 5.5
3. water is aerated within 1 hour with aquarium pump
4. pH checked after 1 hour - 6.5

How to stabilize pH to 5.5? May be another acid will do the work?
 

MrFista

Active member
Veteran
Shifting soft water around never works. RO water is soft. Try half tap half RO I betya get less problems.

Alternately, shifting hard water around is DAMN HARD TO DO.

If too hard add RO - if too soft add tap, or cal mag.
 
I would add regular water to the rez...then re check your ph...Wait an hour and re check it again...Ph should not have jumped that fast inless

The starting PH was never as low as 6.1=most likely a bad reading or a first initial reading before the PH settled after mixing for a few hours

Not enough PH down added per gallon to maintain a normal level


I keep my re-circulating rez system at 5.3 to 5.8...6.1 is a little high, and your more prone to go higher, which can cause nutrient lock on your MJ!!

I check my ph twice a day...morning and nite

Hope this helps
 

icough2getoff

Active member
Reverse-Osmosis water is more likely to experience pH shifts because it lacks the buffering capabilities of tap water......this has been discussed at length in BigToke's thread.....it is a good read for people experiencing pH shifts in DWC environments:

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=8182&highlight=Big+Toke

Now the second issue here is very interesting.......it involves a very complex chemical process which i learned from reading scientific papers on pond ecology......the actual description of this chemical reaction is incredibly complex, but basically it boils down to this.....

When you introduce oxygen molecules into a body of water, the oxygen particles "kick out" all of the dissolved CO2 in that given body of water (in our case your reservoir)......the dissolved CO2 in a body of water is stored as "carbonic acid," which is slightly acidic.....so, when your airstone floods your water with oxygen, the pH shifts from slightly acidic (6.1) to a more alkaline level (8.1).....

If you don't believe me, try a simple experiment and you will be convinced.....get a glass of water and add a little bit of pH down (citric acid is fine) and pH test the water......or, you could get carbonated mineral water which has lots of CO2 dissolved in it and is naturally slightly acidic......then, take your air-pump and start bubbling in oxygen molecules.......since you have such a small body of water (only a few ounces), the pH shifts from slightly acidic to alkaline in a matter of seconds......test the pH of the aerated water and you will be convinced......

Certain nutrients seem to work better in DWC than others......i guess they all have different "buffering properties," but i wish someone would come out and design a nutrient solution specifically for DWC......there is a nutrient solution called "Sweet & Heavy" which is designed for "Organic Hydroponics," so that is a possibility that you might want to explore.....

Hopefully you will be able to get these pH shifts under control......if you have any more questions, feel free to pm me.....there are some good threads dealing with pH shifts herein, but the link i gave you to BigToke's thread is a great place to start...

:ying: kind regards from guineapig :ying:

That's one of the most informative posts I've ever read on this subject. I've read of something like that happening a few times before but never in that kind of detail. Thanks for posting that.
 
it is normal for this fluctuation, especially when you add fresh water and nutes on your change days. in hydro ph should be checked every 4-12 hours for achieving optimal growth
 
sorry, this is what i meant
picture.php
 
The forum says organic so i suppose your using soil? If so add some peat moss. My plants always love it. Also mix in perlite or vermiculite since the peat holds water for a while. I read that cannabis likes soil a little acidic. Works for me. Just be careful some peat has fert in it. Now i only need water. Plants are dark lime green. Very healthy. If your JUST using chemicals to grow, good luck.
 
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