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Old 12-22-2016, 04:54 PM #31
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Commercial vegetable farming estimates I have seen show 10-25% loss in yield from the presence TSSM in the field re: plant stress.

Regardless, fuckin' kill 'em all. I haven't tried wintergreen, but peppermint works very well.
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Old 02-04-2017, 03:06 PM #32
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arañitas

If you dont have time or patience use CBO
https://www.herer.cl/tienda/plaguicid...-aranita-roja/.
I also plant fennel near my plants, ladybugs love it.

"Sino teni tiempo ni paciencia, ocupa CBO, disponible en la mayoría de los grow, yo lo he ocupado y es muy bueno, ademas planta hinojo cerca de las plantas porque sirve como casa para las chinitas".
Suerte
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Old 04-23-2017, 10:23 PM #33
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Temps?

What about High Temps?
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Old 04-23-2017, 11:52 PM #34
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I have kicked them with neem oil. It's a lot of work spray everything every 3 days for 21 days. Neem isn't a poison it works slowly but it works. they can't eat or reproduce, I tried lady bugs not a good way to get rid of spider mites, the ladybug needs to much moisture, so unless you want your room to feel like a swamp,and your buds to mold it doesn't work.
I have found that Neem works well for mites and PM. But real Neem for mites, not the refined 70% Neem that has all of the azadirachtin removed. It is a contact spray, so you have to saturate the entire plant to be effective. Mites have tiny webbing that they cover the eggs with, and while Neem will kill eggs on contact, it may not get through the webbing. Adding soap helps, but some of the Neem oils that I have say not to use a spreader (soap) with it. So you need to spray at consecutive intervals to kill all the stages of mites once they hatch. Spider, cyclamen and broad mites mites all hatch into larvae in 2-3 days time. So spray every 3 days to kill any emerging eggs. Usually 3 spray cycles will be enough. I typically spray Neem as a preventative for PM and mites every 2 weeks.

As for Neem/oil/soap and resistance, mites cannot become resistant to the oil and soap sprays. This is because oil coats and suffocates them, and soap lowers water surface tension, and drowns them. They cannot evolve to become resistant to these actions.

Also with Avid (abamectin) and Neem (azadirachtin), they both break down under ultraviolet light, so if you grow outdoors, you should be fine with using either one. Abamectin is trans laminar, meaning it will penetrate the leaf and kill the mites dining on it on the other side. This allows for less than 100% saturation spraying (which is hard to do effectively). Abemectin is also 100% effective for mites that it comes in contact with (direct or trans laminar). Abemectin will not kill eggs though. Soaps and oil sprays are more like 80% effective in studies done at WSU and OSU, but they will kill all stages of mites and their eggs on contact. So in both cases, multiple applications are required for complete eradication.
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Old 04-23-2017, 11:57 PM #35
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My last run Im pretty sure I had them show up for the first time. There was no visible damage to any of the 3 plants that they appeared on. Looked at them under a loop and there was no spots, just translucent white mites. I sprayed twice over 10 days with a 100% neem, sm90 water mix and didnt see another up till I had to chop early. Seemed to have worked and ive seen nothin on my mothers.
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:19 AM #36
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BTW: Any agricultural oil (mineral or paraffin based, or even canola oil) will work on mites and other insects like aphids and thrips. It does not have to be Neem. Neem had 20 some odd other ingredients that are effective against bugs and diseases though. You can drink mineral oil. I would not drink Neem oil. One guy did that and wound up in the hospital. He lived though. He thought a bottle of Neem was veg oil and ingested it by mistake.

Soap sprays, Neem and ag oils are approved for use in Oregon, which has ridiculous restrictions and testing requirements for pesticides and residues. Some extracts like azadirachtin and pyrethrin are also allowed. Citric acid is also being used here as a bug spray now.
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:40 AM #37
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Predator mites is an awesome way to go if you do not want to spray anything on your buds. I always like to start with the californicus when I first start the garden. They will live off of pollen if there are no spidermites around. If you are in desperate need, the persimilus is much more aggressive but will eat themselves and other predator mites. As long as your tempatures and humidity is good, the predator mites will defend your garden marvellously.
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:45 AM #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OregonBorn View Post
So you need to spray at consecutive intervals to kill all the stages of mites once they hatch. Spider, cyclamen and broad mites mites all hatch into larvae in 2-3 days time. So spray every 3 days to kill any emerging eggs. Usually 3 spray cycles will be enough.
Excellent information. This works with safer's 3-n-1, water/iso combinations and any other oil and soap sprays. The key is complete coverage and sticking to the timetable.

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mites cannot become resistant to the oil and soap sprays. This is because oil coats and suffocates them, and soap lowers water surface tension, and drowns them. They cannot evolve to become resistant to these actions.
Yep.


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Also with Avid (abamectin) and Neem (azadirachtin), they both break down under ultraviolet light, so if you grow outdoors, you should be fine with using either one.
Your mileage may vary. Conditions can keep it around (even outside, especially with root drenches for aza products) for MUCH longer than the mfg's 'testing' will show. Ask the growers who've had their product rejected after testing...

Personally, azadirachtin products are a solid "No F'ing Way," in my garden. This includes unrefined neem oil and neem seed meal. Totally and completely ruins the cannabis for those of us who are allergic to azadirachtin.
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:55 AM #39
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Noobie question here.

How do spider mites get in contact with your indoor garden in the first place?
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Old 04-24-2017, 02:22 AM #40
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Noobie question here.

How do spider mites get in contact with your indoor garden in the first place?
they are hitchhikers...they just catch a ride on you from anywhere....and all you have to have is one, just one....and in a few months there are hundreds and before long thousands...if you know another grower with them, be careful while visiting them...they will catch a ride right into your garden..DJXX
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