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Old 05-07-2016, 08:19 PM #11
Mikell
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Originally Posted by zapallo View Post
Thank you all for your help!!
I have some listerine already haha so i'm gonna try with that. About the ladybugs, it seems that they do a great job, but it's hard to find them here since it's almost winter and i'm living in an urban area, they are hard to see even in spring/summer About the abamectin, think im going to consider it has a last choice. Apparently it's not that harmful though, i found this and it says it wil degradate quickly as far as it is just a thin layer. Don't worry Mikell, if i use it i'm going to follow all the indications and cover the entire plant and pot with it, and probably use some soap as backup i can get potassium soap, do u think it will be helpful?
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The halflife from that link is for surface residue. Google "abamectin plant residue" and look for references to non surface degradation. It's quite a bit longer.


One user submitted results of testing after 180 days on another forum that still showed residual. Albeit less than 5ppm, but it shows you how half lives only give part of the picture.


Myclobutanil is a good example, with degradation commonly refered to as a "hockey stick" when graphed, re: a quick initial half life followed by slow breakdown of the remainder.


Food for thought. Your choices are your own, I prefer not to judge but simply provide accurate information.


Post the brand or more detailed explanation of the soap, but it sounds similar.
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Old 05-07-2016, 11:25 PM #12
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Buy something with spinosad. I prefer captain jacks deadbug brew. Last time I got spider mites ( dont take cuts from someone else..they always have bugs) I sprayed them with captain jacks 3 times total, and havent seen a spider mite in 2 years. Prior to finding out about spinosad, I tried azamax, regular neem oil plus several chemicals that should never go on pot. NONE worked very well and all left a few still alive. Spinosad killed them all. Last spray was cautionary I believe as I didnt see any signs but wanted to make sure they were gone.
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Old 05-08-2016, 01:02 AM #13
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I tried spinosad didn't do shit, it did kick thrips in 1 application. once you get rid of them, don't take clones from anyone. it may be tempting to get the hot new cut, not worth it to me. there are tons of great seeds out there
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Old 05-08-2016, 01:55 AM #14
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like you gotta wash shit down and get the overspray down tha drain type full cov
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Old 05-08-2016, 03:46 PM #15
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Safer's Soap comes as a concentrate so you can make a Dip-tank (or dip-bucket).

Spraying is good for a touch-up, but if there's a lot of plants ...

With Safer's if you do a complete dip (and let it dry before putting the plant back under the lights), AND repeat the dip 3 days later (to catch mites that were just eggs during the first dip), you have a decent chance of catching it.

I think Safer's in spray form is mainly ... highly profitable for the people who sell it. Better to make your own.
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Old 05-08-2016, 08:54 PM #16
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Go buy a paint sprayer for $60. Dilute a little Dr. Bronners soap and you'll wipe those bitches out. The sprayer atomizes the mist and allows you to do big areas fast. You may have to do it periodically. Cheers.

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Old 05-10-2016, 05:14 PM #17
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If using the peppermint dr bronners would you still add peppermint essential oil?
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:51 PM #18
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That's the kicker. I've used other emulsifiers with the peppermint for aphids.

Not all essential oils are equal. I use peppermint Supreme from New Directions. A quick browse of their site will show multiple types with differing terpene profiles.

There's a minimum order size and I'd recommend checking out a local source, my main point is all sprays should be tested, especially these DIY mixes.
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Old 05-10-2016, 06:37 PM #19
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We use a brand called plant therapy I believe there pretty good, not thinned out in carrier oils etc. but really that's the wife's thing
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Old 05-11-2016, 08:41 PM #20
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Buy Liquid Ladybug Spray. Works great and it is nontoxic to smoke it
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