Weird yellow splotches

swimman · Nov 26, 2017

Hey ya'll, saved these plants from some pretty crummy conditions and they came back with lots of green beautiful growth. Over the past week this symptom has been developing, slowly, starting with upper growth. It now affects about half of my plants to different degrees, but the one pictures is the most severely affected.

Important details:

CO2 Supplementation @ 1200-1500 PPM
Room Temp 72-81 RH 42-71%
Soil is 40:40:20 Pro Mix : Perlite : Worm Castings

Using RO water with Botanicare Pro Blend series, utilizing
Pure Blend Pro Grow 3-2-4 @ 10ml/gallon
Cal-Mag Plus 2-0-0 (3.2% Ca, 1.2% Mg) @ 3ml/gallon
Fulvex 0-0-0 (1% Mg) @ 2ml/gallon
Hydroguard Root Innoculent @ 2ml/gallon
Liquid Karma 0.1-0.1-0.5 @ 2ml/gallon
Silica Blast 0-0-.5 (2% Silicon) @ 2ml/gallon

Getting a little nervous as it's clearly spreading and I was hoping to start flowering next week. I haven't seen any evidence of pests after multiple thorough examinations.

Let me know what you think, Docs.

Wsmfp16 · Nov 26, 2017

What is your PH? Looks a little like a sulfur deficiency but that seems to be fairly rare and tends to hit the older leaves first. I am interested to see what you find out here.

swimman · Nov 26, 2017

Based upon all my research, soil with the correct amount of lime and abundant amounts of humates with a healthy microherd shouldn't really have pH issues, and in addition to that, Botanicare as far as I've read suggests users er on the side of caution when using pH up and down. So given that, I don't know what the pH is but I'd assume it to be somewhere in the range of 6-7.

Doesn't sulfur generally affect the whole of a leaf? I haven't been able to find anything that looks like this tbh and it's puzzling to say the least.

Wsmfp16 · Nov 26, 2017

Not saying that this is the issue, just an easy place to start. When force feeding with liquid nutrients it is best to PH prior to feeding IMHO. Hope you can get to the bottom of this.

swimman · Nov 26, 2017

Wsmfp16 said:
Not saying that this is the issue, just an easy place to start. When force feeding with liquid nutrients it is best to PH prior to feeding IMHO. Hope you can get to the bottom of this.

Checked the soil and it's about a 6.8-6.9, so within acceptable ranges.

The problem with adjusting pH is those little crystals you add can cause more problems then they can solve, from my experience.

Botanicare is acidic, and my water out of the spout comes out about 7.0 so with the nutrients added I'm sure the water drops down within 4-5.5 as I think is the case with most acidic nutrients. pH of the soil should buffer that into ideal ranges, though I haven't checked runoff as I don't trust my liquid pH meter anymore.

*shrug*

They have a bit of nute burn on their tips but other than that the new growth has been really lush and their recovery remarkable. I'm just not sure where this has come from

troutman · Nov 26, 2017

Could be trace elements.

i.e. iron, manganese, zinc, etc.

swimman · Nov 26, 2017

troutman said:
Could be trace elements.

i.e. iron, manganese, zinc, etc.

I may try next watering adding Microblast by Earth Juice, Molasses to feed the micro herd.

I'm a bit new to RO water. I am trying it because I have always had random problems with soil growing which never seem to have an answer. I know my water is chlorinated, and have had a hard time leaving it out for 24 hours due to gnats to off gas the chlorine. I suspect it has been having detrimental effects on my micro herd population.

With RO water, do you folks recommend adding Cal-Mag and Microblast to every watering to replace the Cal-Mag and other micro nutrients lost during the process of osmosis? Just curious.

Thanks for the reply.

troutman · Nov 26, 2017

If gnats are that bad. Cover you water container with a cloth or something.

As long as air can pass so will the chlorine. :tiphat:

You should deal with the gnats also.

Douglas.Curtis · Nov 26, 2017

Those spots look just like an insect/root-damage problem.

R/O is clean water and should be the basis for nearly any cannabis growing setup. You want to make sure your nutrients/amendments have enough of everything cannabis needs, in the amounts it needs. You shouldn't have to worry you're taking non-plant elements out of the water. (Yes, most tap water calcium is not available to plants.)

Carry on. :tiphat:

swimman · Nov 27, 2017

troutman said:
If gnats are that bad. Cover you water container with a cloth or something.

As long as air can pass so will the chlorine.

You should deal with the gnats also.

The gnats are pretty much taken care of, using sticky traps as well as gnatrol and mosquito dunks ground up and spread in the soil, as well as letting the plants dry out well and removing any standing water. I actually have a 8 gallon brew tank which has a lid and everything, the buggers still managed to get inside of that.

swimman · Nov 27, 2017

Douglas.Curtis said:
Those spots look just like an insect/root-damage problem.

R/O is clean water and should be the basis for nearly any cannabis growing setup. You want to make sure your nutrients/amendments have enough of everything cannabis needs, in the amounts it needs. You shouldn't have to worry you're taking non-plant elements out of the water. (Yes, most tap water calcium is not available to plants.)

Carry on.

What kind of insect? The only thing I can think of is aphids (haven't seen any, I'd imagine I would have by now) or god forbid, broad mites.

Doesn't resemble spider mite damage to me, as I actually had just dealt with some not too long ago.

mdgg4 · Nov 27, 2017

All you had to say was gnats. If all other variables have an answer, gnats are your problem. Don't under estimate the strength of those fuckers. If you have a problem with the adult flyers that means you have alot going on in your soil. You never said how your roots look. You are having an uptake problem due to the gnat larvae munching on ya roots and spreading fungus in your medium. Does'nt really matter what you add to your soil if they don't have access to it. Don't underestimate the little guys!
Oh yeah, I use tap water fuck the world!

PEACE!

Douglas.Curtis · Nov 27, 2017

mdgg4 said:
All you had to say was gnats. If all other variables have an answer, gnats are your problem. Don't under estimate the strength of those fuckers. If you have a problem with the adult flyers that means you have alot going on in your soil. You never said how your roots look. You are having an uptake problem due to the gnat larvae munching on ya roots and spreading fungus in your medium. Does'nt really matter what you add to your soil if they don't have access to it. Don't underestimate the little guys!
Oh yeah, I use tap water fuck the world!

PEACE!

This right here is accurate. Definitely root damage if you have a gnat issue. Root aphids, tough to even notice at times, even worse. At least gnats go away with simple mosquito bits.

Mikell · Nov 27, 2017

swimman said:
Based upon all my research, soil with the correct amount of lime and abundant amounts of humates with a healthy microherd shouldn't really have pH issues, and in addition to that, Botanicare as far as I've read suggests users er on the side of caution when using pH up and down. So given that, I don't know what the pH is but I'd assume it to be somewhere in the range of 6-7.

Doesn't sulfur generally affect the whole of a leaf? I haven't been able to find anything that looks like this tbh and it's puzzling to say the least.

Gnatrol and stickies will deal with the gnats. Maintaining a proper water cycle is more important. Dry spells are a tightrope.

Your research was wrong. You're over reading it sounds like. Focus on the basics.

It also sounds like you checked soil pH with some type of probe. These are inaccurate. As it checking run off.

Feed water is very acidic. You're causing wild pH swings in the medium.

Adjust your feed pH to 6.3-6.5. Verify with drops, paper or a meter.

You've already seen the result of not adjusting it.

Turn CO2 down to 600-800. You're only going to get to a worse place faster running it any higher.

If I come off as an ass it's because I am one.

swimman · Nov 27, 2017

Mikell said:
Gnatrol and stickies will deal with the gnats. Maintaining a proper water cycle is more important. Dry spells are a tightrope.

Your research was wrong. You're over reading it sounds like. Focus on the basics.

It also sounds like you checked soil pH with some type of probe. These are inaccurate. As it checking run off.

Feed water is very acidic. You're causing wild pH swings in the medium.

Adjust your feed pH to 6.3-6.5. Verify with drops, paper or a meter.

You've already seen the result of not adjusting it.

Turn CO2 down to 600-800. You're only going to get to a worse place faster running it any higher.

If I come off as an ass it's because I am one.

With all due respect, a quick trip over to the organics sub thread would suggest otherwise. I am using LCs soil mix with a nutrient line that is basically organic. I don't think this is a pH issue. I have other plants in the same soil receiving the same feed that are in perfect condition.

Gnat larvae are known to only affect cannabis when it is must young and has unestabllished roots. I can link a million sources to that affect.

This isn't gnat damage, I HAD bad gnats and damage was never like this. Note, had is the operative word.

I mean no disrespect but this is pretty common knowledge that I have read in every forum board for the past five years. Go check out the organics section and explain to me why those members of the community are wrong and you are right.

WishDoctor · Nov 27, 2017

wtf??? comon n00bs, it's def not pest, not gnats or root aphids or any other bug

this is a simple, SIMPLE nutes issue.

evidently proof by posts, that most of you all have no skills in id'ing pest or nute issues

jfw...it's been answered already...sulphur overdose

you gotta learn cannabis nute issues if you are going to grow.

swimman · Nov 27, 2017

WishDoctor said:
wtf??? comon n00bs, it's def not pest, not gnats or root aphids or any other bug

this is a simple, SIMPLE nutes issue.

evidently proof by posts, that most of you all have no skills in id'ing pest or nute issues

jfw...it's been answered already...sulphur overdose

you gotta learn cannabis nute issues if you are going to grow.

I've never heard of sulfur toxicity, and am not sure where that would come from. None of my nutrients contain significant amounts of sulfur!

The plot thickens.

mdgg4 · Nov 29, 2017

WishDoctor said:
wtf??? comon n00bs, it's def not pest, not gnats or root aphids or any other bug

this is a simple, SIMPLE nutes issue.

evidently proof by posts, that most of you all have no skills in id'ing pest or nute issues

jfw...it's been answered already...sulphur overdose

you gotta learn cannabis nute issues if you are going to grow.

Dude I''ve had gnats they effect your shit from seedlimg to harvest. And then you call people noobs, been growing this beautiful plant over 30 years. Like I said before gnat larvae effect roots, youmg and old they do not discriminate. If your not a noob to prove us all wrong and ask how his roots are doing. I learned a lomg time ago if your medium is ok then your plants have no choice but to thrive. I don't grow plants, I grow soil/medium to the best of my abillities and plant vigor comes as a result.If your roots are damaged there is no way for them to get full benefit of whatever nutrient your trying to feed. That's like asking you to run a 20 mile marathon with no legs, it aint gonna happen.
If he has a problem with water sitting out and collecting adult flyer gnats they have to be coming from somewhere. Also from experience gnats LOVE organic soil, a lot for them to feed on, perfect for them if your not diligent on your pest problems.
So in the future please give good advice and why you think that advice is good, pro's and cons because that noob shit was just that bullshit.

PEACE!

mdgg4 · Nov 29, 2017

Then you make these claims, please post a pic of your beautiful plants for all to see because you have none posted but you give advice. From all we know you may never have even grown a cannabis plant. Most people proud of there work post pics, let's see.

PEACE!

Vanilla Phoenix · Nov 29, 2017

I've been using PBP for close to two decades in soil. For the first 5 years I bought into the whole organic soil will correct the pH of anything you throw in it. I did ok not pHing my water/nutrients. But I had weird shit pop up on every run...some strains worse than others.

I finally got sick of something always going on with them, so I said what the hell and started pHing all water/nutrients I gave them to 6.5. Haven't had a problem since.

I'm not saying that the soil won't correct the pH of the water/nutrient you are running thru it. I'm just saying that in my experience, especially with PBP dropping the pH significantly, it was my problem.

If you get rid of the gnats and you still have weird splothes/spots, just try pHing your feedings on one plant thru a whole run. I'm no grow master by far, but from what I have gathered on the organic thread, most of the growers that have success with not pHing their feedings, mostly use water only, with an occasional tea. PBP is some pretty acidic stuff.

I'm using Happy Frog and LC's organic soil for the record.

Weird yellow splotches

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