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Eagle 20 and spinosad

Hi. I'm just wondering if anyone knows of any good websites or shops to order some eagle 20 and something with spinosad in it.
I live in Canada and can't seem to get it anywhere here. Apparently in smaller amounts, it's still legal to ship from the US.
 

BubbaBear

Member
Dont spray Eagle 20 on your plants bro. It's been proven thru and thru to stay in your plants for several cycles and releases cyanide when burned. And it's been so over used by so many growers most strains of PM are immune to it.
 
Thanks for your responses.
I was looking into that Monterey stuff but wasn't sure if it was strong enough. Have you had success with it?
I had some stuff years ago that was super concentrated, like the 44% stuff you speak of. It worked great for me, but was super strong because I lent it to a buddy, he didn't dilute it in water and it fried his plants.
Bubbabear
I've never tried eagle20 before, just was told by a few people that it was ok to use in veg. I'll definitely look into it a little more. I threw out all the clones I got from a guy that had the PM. I just thought maybe the eagle 20 would be nice to have on hand in case i came across this In clones again. Maybe I'll stick to seeds.
 
M

metsäkana

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spinosad

Spinosad is a novel mode-of-action insecticide derived from a family of natural products obtained by fermentation of S. spinosa. Spinosyns occur in over 20 natural forms, and over 200 synthetic forms (spinosoids) have been produced in the lab.[4] Spinosad contains a mix of two spinosoids, spinosyn A, the major component, and spinosyn D (the minor component), in a roughly 17:3 ratio.[1]



i think montrey is not synthetic spino like that elanco is, not sure .. just passing by lol :D confused me sometime.. i used 1 spraying of montrey once .. have not needed it since



dont use eagle20 good its banned here i think in eu.. i heard it turns to some syanide shit when heated up like smoking or not sure if purging too high or dabbing too :D

http://www.coloradogreenlab.com/blo...ntext-of-cannabis-cultivation-and-consumption

Myclobutanil-based fungicides, including Eagle 20EW, are not currently approved for use in the United States on tobacco, the only (other than marijuana) smokable agricultural commodity. The toxicity and health effects of myclobutanil in the context of combustion/inhalation (versus ingestion) have not been assessed.


As shown in Figure 1 above, myclobutanil decomposes, its triazole (Figure 1, blue), cyanide (Figure 1, red) and chlorine (Figure 1, green) moieties are released and form toxic gases, including hydrogen cyanide (HCN) and hydrochloric gas (HCl). Of the three primary decomposition products formed, HCN holds the greatest concern. Chronic exposure to dilute hydrogen cyanide (ex. 0.008 parts per million) is not immediately deadly (10), but is known to cause serious neurological, respiratory, cardiovascular, and thyroid problems (11, 12, 13). Cannabis retaining even marginal amounts of myclobutanil (ex. 0.03 ppm) could potentially expose consumers to non-lethal, but clinically relevant levels of HCN.
 
Last edited:

knuckles

Active member
Veteran
I used the spinosad when I had a thrip problem,it worked great.i applied it three times over a two week period.I also used nematodes to kill the larvae in the coco.
 
I went out and bought some nematodes and sprayed my plants with this jakes stuff and everything's looking good again. Apparently you can use this jakes stuff up to 3-5 days before harvest. Not gonna try that. But stuff seems legit.
 

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Moe Funk

Member
This for indoor or outdoor? What you have there is a band-aid nothing more. That's fine for your current run but you need to rid the pm from your plant or it will come back guaranteed. People hate on Eagle 20 and it is nasty stuff but it WILL get the job done and save your future runs. If you're concerned about residuals then spray your plants and wait 2 gens to flower those plants again. It will be long gone by then, BUT, if you don't get it out of your environment you'll just get it over and over again. You need to be planning ahead for next round.
 
I already made the decision to destroy all the clones I took from these strains with the PM. Too bad, they were looking great. I cant get any sort of systemic fungicide here in Canada , so I've been using these bandaids for now. I'm 38 days into flower right now and have only had the PM come back on a couple plants and not very much either. I cut the leaves I see it on instantly. My question now is, once everything is finished in my flower room. How do I ensure the PM is gone for my next grow? Repaint? Bleach clean everything? Ozone generator? Sulfur burner? I've read about all these things.
Does anyone have any experience cleaning a room of PM?
I've also noticed at day 36 I scoped the tricomes on the 3 different strains, and they all have quite a few amber tricomes already. Seems pretty early to me. Unless maybe it has something to do with spraying the Jake's on them.
 

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Scrappy-doo

Well-known member
I've had very good results with aspirin. 1 325mg uncoated tablet per gallon and water it in, or 2 tablets in a pint as a foliar. In my case I did both. Very effective and long lasting.

Before that I had used peroxide foliar and had to keep applying daily which eventually burns the leaves to some degree.
 

Scrappy-doo

Well-known member
For next round yes you need to clean everything in the room. Bleach works well. A hepa or uv filter is a good idea.
 

calisun

Active member
I would use serenade garden disease control for pm. It has worked for me before. It stinks and I wouldn't use it past the 2nd week of flower

I wouldn't ever use Eagle 20
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Clean the room with a product called Zerotol. It's pretty much a nuke all for greenhouse operations. All surfaces. All materials. All tools. Make a spray bottle mix and take apart your fans and clean them. All ducting air has traveled through. All hoods. EVERYTHING. That is how you get rid of PM.

Then use a product like MilStop for future plant care. A preventative like Procidic or Oxidate are great options as well.



dank.Frank
 

laikakali

New member
Anyone seen this

https://www.canada.ca/en/health-can...romhealthcanadaonmyclobutanilandcannabis.html
I think there is a lot of non scientists giving advice , more like religion. Lots of hate for a chemical that has saved my cuttings many times. I have Kali Mist and White Russian plants that have been around since 2001. I only spray small plants,nothing later then 3 weeks before flowering. I have had my final product tested. Found only when retested to parts per billion after I doused a plant in week one of flower, that I was gifted. I really doubt Myclobutanil has persistence over generations of clones .
 

hyposomniac

Active member
I already made the decision to destroy all the clones I took from these strains with the PM. Too bad, they were looking great. I cant get any sort of systemic fungicide here in Canada , so I've been using these bandaids for now. I'm 38 days into flower right now and have only had the PM come back on a couple plants and not very much either. I cut the leaves I see it on instantly. My question now is, once everything is finished in my flower room. How do I ensure the PM is gone for my next grow? Repaint? Bleach clean everything? Ozone generator? Sulfur burner? I've read about all these things.
Does anyone have any experience cleaning a room of PM?
I've also noticed at day 36 I scoped the tricomes on the 3 different strains, and they all have quite a few amber tricomes already. Seems pretty early to me. Unless maybe it has something to do with spraying the Jake's on them.

I had a moldy mildewy basement in a renovation house to deal with and did some reading about remediation.. lots of advice against bleaching mold, EPA and osha both recommend against it for various reasons, especially on porous surfaces.
I don't know how much applies to mildew, but if they have penetrating rootlike hyphae then it applies.

Ended up using concrobium mold killer, and it did a great job, and wiped out the mold and all the smell.
Now cut to another basement project: concrobium isn't the cheapest, so I looked up the MSDS and made my own, which worked just as well.

5% trisodium phosphate,
1% sodium carbonate (arm and hammer washing soda at Walmart)

Mixed in a sprayer and covered every inch of surface..it leaves a film
The basement smell went away totally.. this spray and a few pest strips (only between crops!) is the between crop strategy that's helped me a lot.

Trisodium phosphate 7601-54-9 1-5%*
Sodium Carbonate 497-19-8 < 1%*
* The exact percentage (concentration) of composition has been withheld as a trade secret.
 
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