G
Guest
DurbanPoison said:
newspaper seems dirty to me. you use it to absorb moisture?
-
Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
-
Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!
newspaper seems dirty to me. you use it to absorb moisture?
dope_roor said:
No sorry no pictures. I wish i did.... Like pics of the trics at harvest, and then 2 weeks of hanging with the roots intact. It always seemed to me that the trics elongated or something... It was nuts, and the herb was always really potent and flavorful. Most of the plants that we had to to this to were slightly premature, so me and my friend felt that this helped them to mature a little while drying out at the same time. If the plants you are going to dry are completely done, i would just dry em the normal way.
Just imagine though... if normally when you dry the plant pulls all the juices and whatnot from the stalks into the bud, how much extra good stuff are you adding when you leave the rootball on?
Im not claiming anything life changing here, but i did notice an improvement of quality of the herb over the last two seasons that i tried this. Especially if you have to pull your plants premature because of mold issues (the main reason that we had to pull plants prematurely). THe main reason i posted was to see if anyone else had seen/tried/heard of this method.
ReeferDan
dope_roor
Member
ReeferDan said:No sorry no pictures. I wish i did.... Like pics of the trics at harvest, and then 2 weeks of hanging with the roots intact. It always seemed to me that the trics elongated or something... It was nuts, and the herb was always really potent and flavorful. Most of the plants that we had to to this to were slightly premature, so me and my friend felt that this helped them to mature a little while drying out at the same time. If the plants you are going to dry are completely done, i would just dry em the normal way.
Just imagine though... if normally when you dry the plant pulls all the juices and whatnot from the stalks into the bud, how much extra good stuff are you adding when you leave the rootball on?
Im not claiming anything life changing here, but i did notice an improvement of quality of the herb over the last two seasons that i tried this. Especially if you have to pull your plants premature because of mold issues (the main reason that we had to pull plants prematurely). THe main reason i posted was to see if anyone else had seen/tried/heard of this method.
hrm makes me curious. i'll have to try it with one of my plants, i think i'm going to have to harvest it early anyways b/c i started flushing a little too early
S
slackerbri
that guide rocks, I was even able to follow it with my diminished attnetion span
G
Guest
how early is flushing too early? Im in dirt for now. would 3 weeks be too long?
kovenant
Member
Aaron143 said:
you say you're in soil. did you use organics or chem nutes? if organic, i would say flushing 5-7 days is fine. alot of organic growers do not flush at all - supplying nutrients all the way till cut. if you are using chem 7-10 days should be fine - especially if you are watering every day or every other day. if you are on a three day+ water schedule you could go 14 days on your flush... flushing with just plain RO water for the rest of your schedule.
--edit--
i like to flush with RO Water + molasses (2 tsp/gallon), but have also flushed with Advanced Nutrient's Final Phase. RO water is fine, but adding the molasses (which i use through most of the grow) adds a sweet taste as well as supplying a small amount of trace nutes while you are starving the plants during the flush /shrug
DurbanPoison said:
hows that working out so far?
Last edited:
CountryGardner
New member
ReeferDan said:
Yes, I have seen that done before about 30+ yrs. ago. We put newspaper on the floor to catch the resin dripping off the plant. I have always thought I would have rather had it stay on the buds. Even though, it was superior smoke for the day. I would be concerned with mold with most strains, temperature, & humidity that I would grow today.
krustytheclown
Member
This should be a sticky
B
BuddahBoyee
Great read! A must for those of us who are unsure about our pulls.
ReeferDan said:No sorry no pictures. I wish i did.... Like pics of the trics at harvest, and then 2 weeks of hanging with the roots intact. It always seemed to me that the trics elongated or something... It was nuts, and the herb was always really potent and flavorful. Most of the plants that we had to to this to were slightly premature, so me and my friend felt that this helped them to mature a little while drying out at the same time. If the plants you are going to dry are completely done, i would just dry em the normal way.
Just imagine though... if normally when you dry the plant pulls all the juices and whatnot from the stalks into the bud, how much extra good stuff are you adding when you leave the rootball on?
Im not claiming anything life changing here, but i did notice an improvement of quality of the herb over the last two seasons that i tried this. Especially if you have to pull your plants premature because of mold issues (the main reason that we had to pull plants prematurely). THe main reason i posted was to see if anyone else had seen/tried/heard of this method.
What a crock this is!! No, if you flushed correctly and stopped feeding like you were supposed to then there arent any more nutrients to pull out of the root ball. Sorry but this is silly and doent work.
Almost Easy
New member
Good read
pidgensheit
Member
bump, should stay on first page if not a sticky!
I'm harvesting soon
I have found a couple of slightly infected moldy areas in a couple of my top colas so I'm not happy but think I've nicked it in the butt and done some cutting. I'm just wondering if I should be very careful to keep this moldy bud material away from the other buds because they could be infected but some spors
??? Or be careful to get rid of all infected areas before drying/curing, which I guess is common sense anyway.
Any experiences, advice, thanks
I'm harvesting soon
I have found a couple of slightly infected moldy areas in a couple of my top colas so I'm not happy but think I've nicked it in the butt and done some cutting. I'm just wondering if I should be very careful to keep this moldy bud material away from the other buds because they could be infected but some spors
??? Or be careful to get rid of all infected areas before drying/curing, which I guess is common sense anyway.Any experiences, advice, thanks
I've used a slightly similar method for almost 10 years, and it seems to work well. It was the method of a friend that had been using it for 5 or 6 years when he recommended it to me.
Harvesting:
Regardless of how excited I am about harvesting, it is always a daunting task, even when I have a helper (never more than 1, tho). I feel your pain. It's 30 to 45 plants, usually done in one sitting. I generally take 1 plant at a time, cut it off of the rockwool at its base, and either lay it on cardboard on a table or hang it, whichever is convenient. From experience, noted above, I've found it easiest to trim branch by branch. First I pull the fan leaves by hand for the entire plant. Then, I start at the bottom (or anywhere for that matter), cut a branch off, trim all of the leaves off of the buds as described in a different post. I always trim holding them upside down first, and then go back and critique it. I use pointed scissors, so I can get a good portion of the leaf stalks that are inside the bud (1/4 inch in or so). At this point I usually clip the top bud whole and then any significant ones from the stalk. The main stalk usually stays in the top buds through drying and to the end. then clip all of the smaller ones off down the length of the stem into their own pile. And on to the next step.
Drying:
Harvested buds placed on flat cardboard or paper plates, whatever floats your boat. I use paper plates, which I label to keep different strains seperate. Also, I usually put larger buds with larger buds, to aid in the 1st stage curing (they tend to dry at different rates). I've tried netting and hanging; other than the difference in appearance due to flat spots mentioned previously, I have never found any difference in quality. Drying buds do need to be turned once or twice per day to prevent excessive moisture build-up on the side against the flat surface. Hanging more branch/stem material has never proven any different than less branch/stem material other than changing the drying time. The longer drying time associated with more stem material (hence more plant moisture) doesn't seem to affect quality. Hanging whole plants (roots or otherwise) does nothing for your quality if the plants were harvested at the right time. Sure if they were harvested too early, it keeps the plant alive under stress for another day, which can aid in a quicker ripening. If one knew that the harvest was too early, then one would probably wait until ripe unless there is outdoor factors pushing a harvest. If the plants are harvested at the optimum time to begin with (get a scope), then hanging plants could actually lead to some of the qualities attributed to "late harvesting". It depends on what you want. Also, there should be no detriment from leaving the whole stalks if you time your harvest correctly and FLUSH PROPERLY.
The plants remain on the flats, being turned twice per day until they feel crispy on the outside, but moist on the inside. It's pretty easy to LIGHTLY hold the bud in your hand like a handlebar or just hold using thumb and index finger and/or middle finger (don't really squeeze) to judge the moisture of the bud. It's hard to describe, but when the moisture can be detected about half the radius out from the axis of the bud, it's ready for bags. You really don't want to jam your finger in or tear the bud open if you don't have to. If your a beginner, this may be the best way to be damn sure and prevent mold. After doing it a few times, it becomes quite easy and there would be no need for this.
1st Stage Curing:
I've used different types of "curing" bags. We call it curing 1st stage and then curing 2nd stage. Here they call it drying still while in the bags. I call the drying stage the first part. Big deal. I've settled on plastic grocery sacks that haven't at all affected the flavor or aroma according to my senses and plenty of experience. It's basically the same thing as the paper, except the moisture levels are handled differently. I recommend not letting your buds sit and dry on newspaper. Take a newspaper and rub your hands over and over it. See how easily the black ink from the press rubs off on your hand. Plastic grocery sacks are kinda like half way between jars and paper sacks. The difference is you control the moisture exchange with the surrounding air by tying the bag more or less tightly. I do checks twice per day. Flip the buds or move them around during each check. The first few days, leave a noticeable gap (opening) where you tie the bag. Next time you check em, check moisture level, depending on how moist the buds are, you adjust the opening in the bag. You don't wan't them to feel wet on the outside, just moist like a sponge that's had the water rung out of it... maybe more like a rung out wash cloth. Your goal is to reach this level of moisture. Shooting for that seems to prolong the 1st stage cure process without any mold. This process is touchy, and I've had some mold but only on a few occasions, which seems to be due more to my negligence than anything. After 4 to 7 days, depending on preference and experience, the buds will no longer reach the moisture level mentioned above. At this point, the sack is tied tightly (not doubled up in a knot or anything), but buds are still checked at least once per day to ensure no mold problems. Like above, if it becomes moist, you have to adjust it. If you do have a plate/sack/whatever of moldy bud, dry it to a crisp immediately and make brownies or somethin. The buds are allowed to dry completely (to a soft handlebar or index finger squeeze (don't really squeeze, you'll get the idea). They should feel dry. there is still some moisture deep down inside there if it's been less than 12-14 days on a typical 1st stage cure.
2nd Stage Curing:
Finally, I think we all do it the same at this point. Move the partially cured buds into jars for final curing. Initially, open the jars once per day. After a week or so, they don't need to be opened as often. It's always quite obvious to me. Also, this referring to buds cured using this method; don't know for the originally posted method, which seems like another great method. It's been awhile since I used paper sacks. I usually try not to fill the jars up more than 1/2 way until 2 or 3 more weeks have past. After that, I usually just fill em up or use zip-locks, depending on where that quantity happens to be going.
A final note, I typically do curing in a space maintained at 70-72 F and 40 to 50% Relative Humidity.
At this point, everyone knows what to do with it.
Ya'll lemme have it. Its the first time I've ever posted this. It's never been critiqued by peers. Oh yea, what's the deal with "bump"? Every time someone posts that; my imaginary friend here says, "Sure, I'll take one". Doesn't the activity of the post determine it's position in the queue? Falsifying thread activity.... ain't that against cyber-law? (I really don't care).
Harvesting:
Regardless of how excited I am about harvesting, it is always a daunting task, even when I have a helper (never more than 1, tho). I feel your pain. It's 30 to 45 plants, usually done in one sitting. I generally take 1 plant at a time, cut it off of the rockwool at its base, and either lay it on cardboard on a table or hang it, whichever is convenient. From experience, noted above, I've found it easiest to trim branch by branch. First I pull the fan leaves by hand for the entire plant. Then, I start at the bottom (or anywhere for that matter), cut a branch off, trim all of the leaves off of the buds as described in a different post. I always trim holding them upside down first, and then go back and critique it. I use pointed scissors, so I can get a good portion of the leaf stalks that are inside the bud (1/4 inch in or so). At this point I usually clip the top bud whole and then any significant ones from the stalk. The main stalk usually stays in the top buds through drying and to the end. then clip all of the smaller ones off down the length of the stem into their own pile. And on to the next step.
Drying:
Harvested buds placed on flat cardboard or paper plates, whatever floats your boat. I use paper plates, which I label to keep different strains seperate. Also, I usually put larger buds with larger buds, to aid in the 1st stage curing (they tend to dry at different rates). I've tried netting and hanging; other than the difference in appearance due to flat spots mentioned previously, I have never found any difference in quality. Drying buds do need to be turned once or twice per day to prevent excessive moisture build-up on the side against the flat surface. Hanging more branch/stem material has never proven any different than less branch/stem material other than changing the drying time. The longer drying time associated with more stem material (hence more plant moisture) doesn't seem to affect quality. Hanging whole plants (roots or otherwise) does nothing for your quality if the plants were harvested at the right time. Sure if they were harvested too early, it keeps the plant alive under stress for another day, which can aid in a quicker ripening. If one knew that the harvest was too early, then one would probably wait until ripe unless there is outdoor factors pushing a harvest. If the plants are harvested at the optimum time to begin with (get a scope), then hanging plants could actually lead to some of the qualities attributed to "late harvesting". It depends on what you want. Also, there should be no detriment from leaving the whole stalks if you time your harvest correctly and FLUSH PROPERLY.
The plants remain on the flats, being turned twice per day until they feel crispy on the outside, but moist on the inside. It's pretty easy to LIGHTLY hold the bud in your hand like a handlebar or just hold using thumb and index finger and/or middle finger (don't really squeeze) to judge the moisture of the bud. It's hard to describe, but when the moisture can be detected about half the radius out from the axis of the bud, it's ready for bags. You really don't want to jam your finger in or tear the bud open if you don't have to. If your a beginner, this may be the best way to be damn sure and prevent mold. After doing it a few times, it becomes quite easy and there would be no need for this.
1st Stage Curing:
I've used different types of "curing" bags. We call it curing 1st stage and then curing 2nd stage. Here they call it drying still while in the bags. I call the drying stage the first part. Big deal. I've settled on plastic grocery sacks that haven't at all affected the flavor or aroma according to my senses and plenty of experience. It's basically the same thing as the paper, except the moisture levels are handled differently. I recommend not letting your buds sit and dry on newspaper. Take a newspaper and rub your hands over and over it. See how easily the black ink from the press rubs off on your hand. Plastic grocery sacks are kinda like half way between jars and paper sacks. The difference is you control the moisture exchange with the surrounding air by tying the bag more or less tightly. I do checks twice per day. Flip the buds or move them around during each check. The first few days, leave a noticeable gap (opening) where you tie the bag. Next time you check em, check moisture level, depending on how moist the buds are, you adjust the opening in the bag. You don't wan't them to feel wet on the outside, just moist like a sponge that's had the water rung out of it... maybe more like a rung out wash cloth. Your goal is to reach this level of moisture. Shooting for that seems to prolong the 1st stage cure process without any mold. This process is touchy, and I've had some mold but only on a few occasions, which seems to be due more to my negligence than anything. After 4 to 7 days, depending on preference and experience, the buds will no longer reach the moisture level mentioned above. At this point, the sack is tied tightly (not doubled up in a knot or anything), but buds are still checked at least once per day to ensure no mold problems. Like above, if it becomes moist, you have to adjust it. If you do have a plate/sack/whatever of moldy bud, dry it to a crisp immediately and make brownies or somethin. The buds are allowed to dry completely (to a soft handlebar or index finger squeeze (don't really squeeze, you'll get the idea). They should feel dry. there is still some moisture deep down inside there if it's been less than 12-14 days on a typical 1st stage cure.
2nd Stage Curing:
Finally, I think we all do it the same at this point. Move the partially cured buds into jars for final curing. Initially, open the jars once per day. After a week or so, they don't need to be opened as often. It's always quite obvious to me. Also, this referring to buds cured using this method; don't know for the originally posted method, which seems like another great method. It's been awhile since I used paper sacks. I usually try not to fill the jars up more than 1/2 way until 2 or 3 more weeks have past. After that, I usually just fill em up or use zip-locks, depending on where that quantity happens to be going.
A final note, I typically do curing in a space maintained at 70-72 F and 40 to 50% Relative Humidity.
At this point, everyone knows what to do with it.
Ya'll lemme have it. Its the first time I've ever posted this. It's never been critiqued by peers. Oh yea, what's the deal with "bump"? Every time someone posts that; my imaginary friend here says, "Sure, I'll take one". Doesn't the activity of the post determine it's position in the queue? Falsifying thread activity.... ain't that against cyber-law? (I really don't care).
B
Brodieman
Nice information on harvesting and drying. Subscribing to this one.
thickmcrunfast
New member
One thing I would recommend is to make sure when you burp your jars that you leave them open for 5-10 minutes. I gave them about a minute the first time around and they didn't offgas all of the chemicals properly, leaving an odd plant-y smell (until left out for an extended period of time.
