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DIY Organic Potting Mix's for Grass - Ace Spicoli

acespicoli

Well-known member
Ace Spicoli's Potting Mix for Grass

I was looking for some recipes and advice on DIY potting mix all organic easy to come by inexpensive mixes.

So here is my starting recipe ingredient costs:

Local free compost 30 gallons (this is from the local dump composted yard waste) free
Bale Peat Moss (im using 1/3 bale) - 3.8cu ft $10
Builders Sand 60 lbs -$3 bag
Tomato Tone 6 lbs (Mycos also in fert) $18 for 18lbs
Oyster shell 15 lbs- $10/50 lbs

Anyone have suggestions on what else should be in there?

This is a update recipe 2.22.2023 This will be the one stop post no need to read on
The latest greatest recipe page one post one. Always in edit mode constant improvement


All these will be easy mix recipes by volume pic a scoop any size and use it for = one part
This is based on how much you like to make how many containers you would like to fill
Most of the time a 1 or 5 gallon bucket or just a graduated marked bucket will do for measure
Small amounts will be teaspoon tablespoon and measuring cups

Basic
Peat Moss 2 parts
Vermiculite 1part
Compost 1 part
Tomato Tone (1.5 tbsp. of Tomato-tone for every 1 qt. of soil)
Oyster Shell
Flowers of Sulfur (Only needed for production of pungent aromas)

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Advanced
Yard waste Compost EWC Earth Worm Castings 1 part that would give you up to about 20-25% +/-
or
EWC Earth Worm Castings 1 part that would give you up to about 20-25% +/-
compost usually introduces fungus gnats and other micro organisms insects not sterile its alive
for indoors this may present a problem which is why you need beneficial insects in your tent/room

Predatory Nematodes are the fix for soil larva of fungus gnats etc
Lady Bugs are the control for above ground plant pests
Find them on amazon

The peat moss is the bulk and high humus content makes up most of the mix
If you would like go ahead and try coco coir in place of peat ^ please report back results
You want to make sure its rinsed of all salts

The vermiculite is the wetting agent add micro elements as well as moisture and air
Compost is the nutrient and should comprise no more than 2 parts of the mix
Epsoma Tomato tone is mixed in based on pot size and later top dressed as needed (read the ingredients)

Composted Oyster meal is 21% more effective than fresh also its a huge source of chitin for terpene
Additionally, their shells tend to contain high levels of calcium carbonate (about 96%) this cuts the acidity of the peat as needed it will naturally buffer your soil as it dissolves adding calcium for strong cellular walls
, think vinegar and baking soda Feed Stores carry this chicken supplement

Sand will give you silica makes plants stronger, add weight to fabric pots stabilize top heavy plants
Water will be rain water with the naturally added nitrogen from atmosphere when available

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Hollytone is now the preferable Epsoma ??? more to come edited 10.2023

For example, some of the most commonly described herbs such as sage, rosemary and lavender would be excluded from the botanical definition of a herb as they do not die down each year, and they possess woody stems.[8] In the wider sense, herbs may be herbaceous perennials but also trees,[10] subshrubs,[10] shrubs,[10] annuals,[10] lianas,[10] ferns,[10] mosses,[10] algae,[10] lichens,[8] and fungi.[8] Herbalism can utilize not just stems and leaves but also fruit, roots, bark and gums.[8] Therefore, one suggested definition of a herb is a plant which is of use to humans,[8] although this definition is problematic since it could cover a great many plants that are not commonly described as herbs.


Soil Steaming to Reduce the Incidence of Soil-borne Diseases, Weeds and Insect Pests​


Published: November 24, 2020​


Soil steaming is regaining popularity to control weeds, soil-borne diseases and insect pests in agriculture. It is an effective and somewhat sustainable alternative (the drawback is the use of fossil fuel) to chemicals and fumigants to disinfect soil in greenhouses, high tunnels and open fields, and therefore useful in conventional and organic production systems. Hot steam heats up the substrate to temperatures that kill or inactivate weed seeds, nematodes, fungi, bacteria, and viruses by destroying cell structure and proteins. Steaming can also disinfect compost, potting soil, pots, tools, etc.
Frank in Germany developed soil steaming for agricultural purposes in 1888. In the U.S., however, agricultural steamers were first commercialized in 1893 and many steamer designs were developed to disinfect soils in greenhouses and nursery fields. Among the steam application tools were steam rakes, and tractor-drawn steam blades for small acres of high value crops. However, chemicals (pesticides) and fumigants such as methyl-bromide got on the market in the 1950's replacing soil steaming in soil pest management. Nowadays and since the phasing out of methyl-bromide after the Montreal Protocol in 1987, steaming is regaining popularity to disinfecting soil to manage soil-borne diseases, weeds and other pests.
Soil steaming is the transfer of energy from burning fuel through water steam to heat up the soil or substrate to pasteurization or sterilization temperatures. Steam temperature at low pressure is above 212°F, but steam releases large amount of energy when condensates into water heating up the soil with minimal moisture. Soil pasteurization occurs at 160-182°F, but soil sterilization is at the water boiling temperature (212°F). Soil steaming in agriculture is considered a pasteurization process since temperature recommendations are 160°F for 30 minutes to kill most pathogenic fungi, bacteria, insects and nematodes, and 182°F for 30 minutes to kill resistant weed seeds. However, time and energy are necessary to reach those temperatures at the desired soil depth.
black metal steamer

Low-pressure steamer (By P. Byers)

Soil revitalization with beneficial microorganisms (soil activator, compost, etc.) may be necessary after soil steaming. When heating to the highest temperatures for sterilization deep into the soil, practically all organisms die, including beneficial ones. Killing soil microorganisms diminishes if not eliminates the soil biological activity, which will affect soil health and nutrient cycling and availability for subsequent crops. In addition, steam killed microorganisms release significant amount of nutrients that were tied up in the living phase of the soil. Therefore, an increase in nutrient availability may enhance vegetative growth in the first crop after treatment, but may require additional amendments or fertilizer for subsequent crops. Consequently, reintroduction of soil beneficial organisms becomes necessary to reactivate and/or maintain the soil biological processes for a healthy and productive soil. Use of quality compost or other type of soil activator will reintroduce beneficial organisms. In the case of compost, plant material infected with soil-borne diseases should not be added and adequate composting temperature must be reached. Otherwise, soil-borne diseases will be reintroduced into the steamed soil because pathogens have resistant structures that will survive organic matter decomposition if killing temperatures are not reached.
There are practically three low pressure steam application types: surface steaming, deep soil steaming and container/stack steaming. There are also several variations within each type as well as applicator systems/designs. Examples are the area sheet steaming, steaming hood, steaming harrow, steaming plough, steam injectors with vacuums, and others.
plastic covered row crop with steam being pumped in

Surface steaming (By C. Millsap)

Soil surface steaming or sheet steaming is the most economical system and used in high tunnels, greenhouses and field. Steam is injected through a perforated pipe or hose of adequate material laid on the soil surface, so covering the area is necessary to force soil penetration. This steaming type is effective to treat the top 2 to 6 inches of the soil. It is a shallow treatment and the effective treatment depth depends on the time the steaming application last. The longer the application time, the deeper the soil reaches the recommended treatment temperature. Because of the shallow heat treatment, beds/rows should be prepared before steaming and maintained undisturbed after treatment to avoid bringing up pests from soil at depths where killing temperatures were not reached.

Deep soil steaming is more effective and last longer, several years, because it reaches soil depth of 1 to 1.5ft. It reduces the risk of bringing up pests from soil at depths where temperatures were not high enough for killing when working the ground. However, it is more expensive because the increase in energy consumption and treatment time. There are many variations to this technique, but the main ones are depth steaming with vacuum (negative pressure) and the combination of surface and depth steaming (sandwich) system. In the depth steaming with vacuum, surface applied steam is suctioned via pipes installed at the specified depth for this purpose. This is a permanent installation, so the initial cost is significant. Drainage pipes are also used for this purpose. In contrast, mobile systems inject steam at the desire depth and the vacuum pipes are on the surface covered with a hood of aluminum or other corrosion resistant material. The sandwich steaming system, developed in Europe, uses specialized equipment because of the high steam pressure and the necessary hood to force soil penetration. It is more efficient because steam simultaneously penetrates the soil from both the surface and at a specified depth, so it reduces the application time and the total fuel used.

Container/stack steaming is used for potting soil, compost, pots, tools, etc. The use of large containers, boxes, piles, or even dump trailers depends on the amount of substrate. High pressure chambers are also available for specific sterilization purposes. In addition, steam injection via manifolds and using suction systems can heat up large amounts of substrate more evenly. Steamed compost reduces the risk of reintroducing soil-borne diseases back into disinfected soil, but soil revitalization with beneficial microorganisms may be necessary.
Cost of steaming depends on equipment (capacity), area and soil depth to treat, which determine time and fuel needed. Many steamer designs are available, so renting cost may vary depending on the model. However, a low-pressure steamer designed to treat a 300sqft section down to 2inch deep would take approximately 2.5h and 10gal of Diesel. Finally, make sure to monitor temperature when steaming to confirm appropriate disinfection throughout the treated area.

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acespicoli

Well-known member


I have found this very easy to mix on a tarp by moving the pile back and forth with the corners being pulled!


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The calcium carbonate content of oyster shells can range from 80% to 95%
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
peat Moss has an acidic pH, generally in the range of 4.4
 
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FunkBomb

Power Armor rules
Veteran
That looks like a good mix overall. I'm glad to see someone using Espoma Tomato Tone. That stuff is one of my favorites and it has all the extra calcium. I'd add some perlite and kelp meal and you're all set.

-Funk
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
Tomato Tone is nice,

Now that you mention it I do like those two products
perlite and kelp! :tiphat:

Thanx FunkBomb !
 
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acespicoli

Well-known member
hillbil

Coarse sand like builders sand, it helps the drainage
the irregular shape also helps add air spaces.
I would avoid the play sand and fine sand. .
The sand also makes the mix a little heavier to keep pots from tipping over!
If you have very compacted soil, root rot or problems with gnats I would highly recommend adding it.

Paver sand may be intended to not wash out, you could always try one pot full to see how it does when in doubt.

If you wet the soil and make it into a ball it should crumble easily, and not glob up
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
Great suggestion, im going to have to try this product as I was not aware of it. I used azomite previously and was happy with the results. Im excited to check this out I wanted to finda source for iron besides hematite

Restore soil fertility and increase yields with 100% Volcanic Basalt Rock Dust. Chock-full of minerals and nutrients, this natural soil booster is used to enhance the supply of trace elements and helps support the biological processes required for sustainable and optimal plant growth.

Benefits:
• High in calcium, iron, magnesium and manganese
• Increases the cation exchange capacity of soils
• Higher brix levels and greater concentrations of essential oils
• May be used on crops, home gardens, landscapes and turf
• Improve drought resistance and salt tolerance of plants

Available size: 50 lb Bag
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
picture.php


This is the latest addition EWC or red wiggler guano, ;)
Ordered 1,000 red wigglers and made some diy worm bins from Tupperware

2019 revision / make sure these bins are food safe if you use plastic
try to use wood bins instead
My worms survived 0 degree winter outdoors under green compost 2018

:party:
 
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acespicoli

Well-known member
Latest visitors to my composted soil mix... There are 1000s of them (solved my crustacean meal and chitin (causes plants to produce more essential oils) need thnx mother nature)
There are some videos online for culturing your own very easy!

Woodlouse
A woodlouse (plural woodlice) is a terrestrial isopod crustacean (crustecean meal or insect frass?)with a rigid, segmented, long exoskeleton and fourteen jointed limbs. Woodlice mostly feed on dead plant material, and they are usually active at night.

Woodlice in the genus Armadillidium and in the family Armadillidae can roll up into an almost perfect sphere as a defensive mechanism, hence some of the common names such as pill bug, or roly-poly. Most woodlice, however, cannot do this.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Chitin
It is a primary component of cell walls in fungi, the exoskeletons of arthropods, such as crustaceans (e.g., crabs, lobsters and shrimps) and insects, the radulae of molluscs, cephalopod beaks, and the scales of fish and lissamphibians.[1] The structure of chitin is comparable to another polysaccharide - cellulose, forming crystalline nanofibrils or whiskers. In terms of function, it may be compared to the protein keratin. Chitin has proved useful for several medicinal, industrial and biotechnological purposes.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Agriculture
Chitin is a good inducer of plant defense mechanisms for controlling diseases. It has also been assessed as a fertilizer that can improve overall crop yields.

Giant Isopod (interesting deep sea creature)


Culturing Isopods - cheat sheet
Postby Philsuma » Thu Mar 03, 2011 8:06 pm

Keeping / Culturing Various type of Isopods

Isopods, also known as Rolly-pollies, Sowbugs, Woodlice, Pill bugs. Available in various colours and morphs; dwarf white, giant Spanish orange, tan, striped and even purple. They are considered "Viv-friendly" and do not ravage Viv plants or bother the frogs. All frogs relish the larvae and most other sizes - they are considered good feeders and usually high in Calcium.

The first thing you want to do upon getting your newly acquired culture home is to “Split it”. Try to replicate the type of soil or substrate that came with the original one. Then transfer up to ½ of the original culture into the new one, thus effectively making a second culture.

Never "use-up" 100% of your culture all at one time. If you must seed a vivarium with it, then again, only use up to ½ of the culture. Always try to keep “splitting” your cultures in this hobby, that way, you will be assured of having an extra should you need it, or even if one goes bad or fails. You can also make your own cultures of feeders to supply other hobbyists with or even recoup your own initial investment.

Isopods do well on “dirt” type soil. Use any combination of garden soil, loam so long as it does not contain any chemicals, fertilizers / manure or Styrofoam / perlite ect. I mix up a huge batch that includes organic soil, some small amounts of sphagnum, a small amount of medium size charcoal bits and some small pebbles ect.
When mixed with clean water, the soil should be moist and damp but never sopping wet.

I also lay 2 small 1.5 inch square pieces of clean, plain, non-colored corrugated cardboard laid directly on the surface of the soil and these can also be damp but not soaking.

The cardboard is very important for two reasons:
1.The Isopods will congregate on the board, allowing for easy removal of adults or shaking out of the larvae.
2.The cardboard will allow for a quick and easy visual check of the overall level of moisture in the culture. If the cardboard is too dry or too wet, you will be able to see it very easily.

Food for the Isopods is easy to provide as well. I use any good quality flake fish food or pellets and you can use small potato slices as well.Small pieces of fruit- mango or melon buried under the surface of the substrate works well with the tropical species. Just remember to feed small amounts of the fish food so as not to foul the culture with uneaten food.

Isopods can be used in 2 different ways:
1.They can be “seeded” by placing a portion of the culture soil directly into the vivarium substrate and allow a few weeks or months for the seeded portion to reproduce and escape frog predation. These Isopods will take on “janitor” duties, removing frog waste, fungus, rotting plant matter and creating small tunnels for other insect microfauna.

2.The tiny larvae which look very similar to springtails in size and colour can be found on the cardboard squares and shaken out into the viv to directly feed froglets. The larvae that survive frog predation can grow and then take on janitor duties as well.
 
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acespicoli

Well-known member
Random Notes on almost free soil ammendments
(Due to its high degree of microporosity, just one gram of activated carbon has a surface area in excess of 3,000 m2) or 1/10 a football field!!!

BIOCHAR Mix 1:16 up to 1:1 with compost!




The processes responsible for the formation of terra preta soils are

Incorporation of wood charcoal
Incorporation of organic matter and of nutrients
Role of micro-organisms and animals in the soil

In the case of terra preta, the only possible nutrient sources are primary and secondary. The following components have been found:
Human and animal excrements (rich in P and N);
Kitchen refuse, such as animal bones and tortoise shells (rich in P and Ca);
Ash residue from incomplete combustion (rich in Ca, Mg, K, P and charcoal);
Biomass of terrestrial plants (e.g. compost); and
Biomass of aquatic plants (e.g. algae).

Along with oxygen, the major components of wood ash are calcium (Ca), potassium (K), magnesium (Mg), silicon (Si) and phosphorus (P) . Ash is generally very low in nitrogen (N) because it is vaporised during combustion and considerable part of the sulphur (S) may also be lost. Trace elements found in ash include As, Ba, B, Cd, Cu, Cr, Ag, Mo, Hg, Ni, V and Zn, of which B, Cu, Mo and Zn can also be regarded as micronutrient

The largest relative percentage of ash, however, is derived from needles and leaves


Rapid charging

The other way to inoculate your biochar is a bit more labor-intensive, but you can complete the process in hours or days, not months. First, fill a 55 gallon (210 litre) drum with fresh water and biochar. If you are using municipal treated water, let it sit for a couple days to remove any chlorine. Then add compost tea or worm castings and leachate to the barrel with some soil from the area where you will use the finished biochar. For example, if you are going to apply the biochar to your fruit orchard, add some soil from around a robust and healthy tree in that orchard. This will help charge the biochar with the ideal microbiology for your specific orchard.

Once everything is well mixed, insert a long tube such as a length of PVC pipe into the barrel and direct air from a blower into the tube, or use a pond aerator and air stones. Aeration supercharges the inoculant and gives the beneficial microbes a massive head start, and helps them adhere to the biochar. Continue this for 12-24 hours.

Cowboy® 20 lb Hardwood Lump Charcoal - $13.64 (wally world)
If you use this charcoal be sure it is well rinsed before use may contain some residues
 
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acespicoli

Well-known member
The Rift Valley has diverse soil types with different fertility potential. ... Organic matter is the major source of total sulfur for the soils in the humid parts (Nitisol, Andosol and Vertisol), whereas gypsum is the major source for the soils in the drier parts (Fluvisol and Solonetz).

Andosol, one of the 30 soil groups in the classification system of the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO).
Andosols are highly porous, dark-coloured soils developed from parent material of volcanic origin, such as volcanic ash, tuff, and pumice.

Best coffee in the WORLD

1) Tanzania Peaberry Coffee
2) Hawaii Kona Coffee
3) Nicaraguan Coffee
4) Sumatra Mandheling Coffee
5) Sulawesi Toraja Coffee
6) Mocha Java Coffee
7) Ethiopian Harrar Coffee
8) Ethiopian Yirgacheffe Coffee
9) Guatemalan Antigua Coffee
10) Kenya AA Coffee

Mt Kilimanjaro
Volcano
Tanzania

Mt Meru
Volcano
Tanzania

Coral sand mining is a significant industry in some areas, and can have damaging environmental effects. Over 500,000 tons of coral sand are mined annually from Mauritius. Over 250 tons of shells and corals were exported from Tanzania in 1974.



Nine sand samples above represent nine different sand types. Row by row from left to right: 1. Glass sand from Kauai, Hawaii 2. Dune sand from the Gobi Desert, Mongolia 3. Quartz sand with green glauconite from Estonia 4. Volcanic sand with reddish weathered basalt from Maui, Hawaii 5. Biogenic coral sand from Molokai, Hawaii 6. Coral pink sand dunes from Utah 7. Volcanic glass sand from California 8. Garnet sand from Emerald Creek, Idaho 9. Olivine sand from Papakolea, Hawaii.


Coral sand is a collection of sand of particles originating in tropical and sub-tropical marine environments from bioerosion of limestone skeletal material of marine organisms. One example of this process is that of parrot fishes which bite off pieces of coral, digest the living tissue, and excrete the inorganic component as silt and sand. However, the term "coral" in coral sand is used loosely in this sense to mean limestone of recent biological origin; corals are not the dominant contributors of sand particles to most such deposits. Rather, remnant skeletal fragments of foraminifera, calcareous algae, molluscs, and crustaceans can predominate.

Because it is composed of limestone, coral sand is acid-soluble.



Scanning electron microscopy micrographs of calcareous algae
 
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acespicoli

Well-known member
Got rid of all the brush in the neighborhood ! almost FREE

This is a look at my 55gal drum homemade biochar charged with additional ashes.
If you use the pit method you can keep your cost down to labor
No urea yet! Almost free, drum cost me $20 and a hour drive round trip!
What you see in the background is my leaf and grass compost pile

The ectomycorrhizal fungi Suillus granulatus and Paxillus involutus can release elements from wood ash.






 
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acespicoli

Well-known member
Quick update on the worm farm!
Enjoying their new home and almost vegan diet, all except egg shells (grit for their gizzards) !
Threw some sand and clay in they really liked the clay!
Mostly veggie smoothies and shredded paper, peat moss bedding to hold moisture.
Come to find out they really like a little tomato tone for a snack sprinkled on top 16.99$ / 18lb
The paper was clean and wet and about 4 inches deep when I added it they really do make alot of dung!
I try not to disturb them too much


(Two pounds of worms for every pound of kitchen waste produced per day).
To determine the amount of worms required, it is recommended that the organic scraps be collected and weighed for a week or two.
I have 1000 red wigglers approx 1 lb of worms

1000 worms | 1 lb of worms | 1/2 lb of food
**Half of Their Weight (Amount they can eat per day, ideally)

Note: In a healthy bin, the worms will reproduce. More worms mean you need to feed them more.
Also the tall Tupperware is unnecessary the worms only need about 6-8 inches of height with multiple levels being preferable.
 
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acespicoli

Well-known member

Note: FREE (stopped in for a coffee anyway)
Starbucks started its Grounds for Your Garden program in 1995,
which is offered on a first-come,
first-served basis in participating stores where local codes permit.

Not to keen on the pumpkin pie coffee but its free compost around closing time
They been giving me trash bags full, worms seem to like it
:tiphat:
 
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acespicoli

Well-known member
Bone meal can vary greatly, depending on the source. From a low of 3-15-0 to as high as 2-22
Bone meal is also an excellent source of calcium,
but does not provide enough nitrogen to be beneficial to plants.
Plants can only get phosphorus from bone meal if the soil pH is below 7.0 (acidic soil), according to recent Colorado State University research.

Organic fertilizers usually require the use of a variety of fungi in the soil to make the nutrients in the fertilizer bio-available to the plant.
For plants needing phosphorus, the fungi mycorrhiza penetrate the roots and break down the compounds containing the phosphorus for easier absorption and utilization,
and in turn the plants supply the mycorrhizae with amino acids and sugars.


How to Make Bone Meal Fertilizer -
Start off by collecting bones. Normally, I'll save bones in the freezer until I have a sufficient amount.
The next step is to clean and sterilize the bones for use. Since I like to get the most out of my bones, I'll normally make broth to clean and sterilize the them. To do this, spread the bones on a baking sheet and place under the broiler for 10-15 minutes. Next, let the bones gently simmer with just enough water to cover them, for 5-8 hours. By the end of this time, the bones will easily strip clean of any fat or meat tissue still stuck to them.
Dry the bones. Once stripped clean, I just spread the bones on a plate and place them in a well ventilated area to dry. Normally, I'll wait about a month for the bones to dry completely. This makes it easy to turn into a powder.
Once the bones are brittle and dry, crush them into a fine powder. The best way to achieve this is with some muscle and a mortar and pestle. Work small batches at a time to create an evenly fine powder.
Once ground up, the homemade bone meal for plants is now ready to use.
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
*

Let’s not forget that trees mine minerals from deep in the soil and return them to the soil surface when the leaves fall, in autumn. Fortunately, you can use the mineral content of leaves to enrich the soil and get it prepared for the next season. If we are to compare mulched leaves to rock dust from the perspective of an environmentally conscious consumer, you should know that this compound is organic, it contains essential and beneficial elements (without the harmful or toxic ones), it is a renewable resource and its cost is basically zero.

*This graph above in red may explain why I always have a lack of iron for my plants!


Azomite

Utah rock dust
 
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