Cycloptics Greenbeams 315w owners thread

40AmpstoFreedom · Jan 31, 2016

Ok sounds like to play it safe veg under cfls and hps until big plants. Think for now I will just stick with 1k hps since its a no brainer for veg and flower. I couldnt find a sweet spot with gavitas it was either death to every seedling or stringy horrid seedling/veg growth which negatively impacted the entire grows done under them.

McKush · Jan 31, 2016

timmur said:
Hey guys, I just wanted to post up a shameless plug for my room build out and grow log. I decided to post it in the Ace forum as that is the genetics I'll be running. Since the room includes Greenbeams I figured it was reverent to this thread. In any case please stop by and post up any feedback you might have.

Ace Malawi and Cycloptics Greenbeams: caught in the Under Current!

Thanks timmur. Right on

timmur · Jan 31, 2016

McKush said:
Thanks timmur. Right on

You're one of the guys I wanted to stop by! :biggrin:

Ez Rider · Feb 2, 2016

GreenBeams on the way :woohoo:

. Just about got all the old gear out of the tent. I need to run some new electrical, and pick up some ducting for the intake/exhaust before I begin the rebuild. Hoping to have some pics before next week.

timmur · Feb 3, 2016

Hey EZ how many did you go with? Are you vegging under T5s?

Ez Rider · Feb 3, 2016

timmur said:
Hey EZ how many did you go with? Are you vegging under T5s?

I'm going with 6. I'm going to add some bracing to keep the tent at 5x9. Running powered intake should help too.

I'm currently vegging under t-5's, but I'll be switching to a G/B for that too. More/better light for 25% less power(in veg) is a no brainer. I'm hoping these lamps will be a real game changer for my garden. I've already made a significant improvement by switching flowering nutes. I'm hoping the G/B's will get me to the mythical 1g/w...with something worth smoking.

timmur · Feb 4, 2016

Ez Rider said:
I'm going with 6. I'm going to add some bracing to keep the tent at 5x9. Running powered intake should help too.

I'm currently vegging under t-5's, but I'll be switching to a G/B for that too. More/better light for 25% less power(in veg) is a no brainer. I'm hoping these lamps will be a real game changer for my garden. I've already made a significant improvement by switching flowering nutes. I'm hoping the G/B's will get me to the mythical 1g/w...with something worth smoking.

Yeah that sounds like a plan. I like CMH because its a great spectrum for veg and bloom. Don't need a separate veg area and if you figure PPFD at a few planes you can give the plant the appropriate amount of light as it matures without moving lights.

Ez Rider · Feb 4, 2016

timmur said:
Yeah that sounds like a plan. I like CMH because its a great spectrum for veg and bloom. Don't need a separate veg area and if you figure PPFD at a few planes you can give the plant the appropriate amount of light as it matures without moving lights.

I couldn't agree more.I've seen the sunlight supply 315's running at the local garden shop, and I really like how natural the spectrum is. I'm really looking forward to ditching my method 7 glasses in favor of my auto-dark reading glasses. Should be much easier to troubleshoot the plants. They always look like shit under the hps to me. No more ridiculous orange glow whenever I open the tent either. White led household lighting is so common these days, nobody thinks anything of a bright white light coming out your window.

I'm also planning on running the hoods at a fixed height. The plants should start veg at ~700 umoles, and finish flowering at ~900 umoles. On paper, it's just about perfect. Hopefully real life will work too.

frostqueen · Feb 4, 2016

I apologize if I missed this somewhere, but approx how many btus - heat - does each 315w put out?

timmur · Feb 5, 2016

frostqueen said:
I apologize if I missed this somewhere, but approx how many btus - heat - does each 315w put out?

About 700 BTUs.

Scrappy-doo · Feb 5, 2016

Omg lol.

Avenger · Feb 5, 2016

Cycloptics says about 1000 btu/hr per lamp.

1 W = 3.412142 BTU/hr

315 x 3.412142=1075 btu/hr

including the ballast you get 341 x 3.412142= 1164 btu/hr

Ez Rider · Feb 5, 2016

frostqueen said:
I apologize if I missed this somewhere, but approx how many btus - heat - does each 315w put out?

timmur said:
About 700 BTUs.

Avenger said:
Cycloptics says about 1000 btu/hr per lamp.

1 W = 3.412142 BTU/hr

315 x 3.412142=1075 btu/hr

including the ballast you get 341 x 3.412142= 1164 btu/hr

I posted an inhouse test by Cycloptics on the previous page. The lamp alone is 661 btu's. Adding the ballast will bring you to ~700 btu's/system, like timmur said. Granted, I'm going off of Cycloptics own #'s, but their testing procedure seems solid enough. I will be taking my own measurements once I've got the new system running.

frostqueen · Feb 5, 2016

timmur said:
About 700 BTUs.

Thanks, my friend. :tiphat:

frostqueen · Feb 5, 2016

Ez Rider said:
I posted an inhouse test by Cycloptics on the previous page. The lamp alone is 661 btu's. Adding the ballast will bring you to ~700 btu's/system, like timmur said. Granted, I'm going off of Cycloptics own #'s, but their testing procedure seems solid enough. I will be taking my own measurements once I've got the new system running.

Thanks to all. I'm thinking a 12k mini split (in a closed room situation) should handle 8 fixtures fairly well. An 18k seems like overkill.

Avenger · Feb 5, 2016

That test that shows 700 btu is showing how much heat they were transfering in the exhausted air, not the total heat gain from the fixture. While the calculation 315 x 3.412142=1075 btu/hr may be a bit of an over estimate, it is likely closer to real life than the heat transfer test/calculation posted on the previous page. :2cents:

Ez Rider · Feb 6, 2016

Avenger said:
That test that shows 700 btu is showing how much heat they were transfering in the exhausted air, not the total heat gain from the fixture. While the calculation 315 x 3.412142=1075 btu/hr may be a bit of an over estimate, it is likely closer to real life than the heat transfer test/calculation posted on the previous page.

I disagree. Assuming that the data on the sheet I posted is correct, the BTUH will be closer to 661 than 1000. Take the formula: ∆T= BTUH/(1.08xCFM). If the BTUH=1000 and CFM's=28.89 then the ∆T should=32F. The actual measured ∆T=21F, which corresponds to 661BTUH. I asked Flip about the discrepancy between the data sheet you posted(1000 BTUH), and the test I posted(661). He says the 661BTUH is the more accurate figure, and the math would seem to agree. FYI, the ∆T between intake and exhaust, along with CFM's is a very accurate measure of BTUH input.

Avenger · Feb 6, 2016

Very well. Please let me know how it works out when implemented in a real system.

McKush · Feb 6, 2016

Scrappy-doo said:
Great thread!

People been sleeping on these units cause they're set in their ways. Cycloptics hoods are a complete game changer and imo are superior to anything else on the market. The light itself is impressive but the fixture is what makes these so special.

As far as canopy distance goes it depends on the type of reflective material used and the distance from bulb to walls. Using orca or flat white paint diffuses the light and would allow you to get closer. Since the spread of light utilyzes wall reflection primarily, simply widening the space also will allow you to bring the bulb closer if you wanted. but the more you lower it the less efficient it becomes because you lose penetration from lack of angle in side reflection. The strategy for these lights isn't about how close you bring the bulb, it's how well you place relative to your room size. Bit of adjusting mentally to get out of the old lighting paradigm.

Damn Scrappy! Just re-read your post and there is some great info there. I agree and have noticed the same as ive played with heights. Probably easier for me to see with a single fixture and my small room size.

Would you agree that taking the size and wall treatment into consideration is akin ro the way a magnifying glass works. As you raise and lower the lens the light converges to focus or difuse but it difuses both above and below the focus point. Not just in one direction. so it seems like you can raise your light and the result being an increase in light at the plane of the plants, not actually decreasing it since the gain from the walls at that particular height optimize

Idk but strikes me as similar. i could be full of shit

I need to get a light meter!

growforme · Feb 9, 2016

Not to thread-jack - but just wanted to add that I am noob who just bought a 315W greenbeams for my 4x4 RDWC tent based off some of the information in this and other threads and started my new grow diary.

New Grow Diary here: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=321719 - image links are in my public album.

Stop by if you have some time!

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