OG Biowar tea brew PH question for concentrated soil drench

Hi all,

I am a new member here on the Forum and hope to get your guy's opinion on this matter

Recently I've switched from a recirculating system using GH products to an inline dosatron system with veg+blooms product [part A, Part b and shine].

When I was doing the recirculating system I would just Brew a tea once a week and add that to my 80 gallon Reservoir every time I would make a new mix or change out.

Now that am DTW and using a dosatron system I have been trying to figure out how get my ogb teas backup in my regiment without having to hand water. I am not affraid to admit I'm a little confused on how to implement ogb teas with the dosatron system and have proper dilution ratios ect without having tea clog my system and have tea sit in my sprinkler lines and go anaerobic

So yesterday I made a plan to brew a 30-gallon tea in my Vortex brewer and planed to hand water each plant with the concentrated tea approximately two cups for each 6-inch hugo Cube

My 30 gal tea recipe I made yesterday.

30 gallons of 0 PPM RO water
600 ml's of BSM
PH my water to 6.8 water temp was 70 degrees
Then in a separate one liter piture I mixed 30 tablespoons of the ogb root pack and 30 tablespoons of the ogb foliar pack and mixed with 0 PPM water I let it sit for 10 minutes and then poured off the top into my Brewer

I then added about five cups of alfalfa meal and 5 cups of ewc and suspended in a tea bag with three different quarter inch air hoses submerged in the tea bag.

Along with about an eighth of a teaspoon of yucca extract. I let it brew for about 18 to 20 hours.

At the end of The Brew cycle the ppm's we're about 550 on a 500 scale and the pH was about 7.7 / 7.8 water temps around 72

I intended to hand water [soil drench] with the concentrated tea but the pH levels kind of threw me for a loop.

Should i have watered with the concentrated tea at 7.8 ph? My tyipical feeding pH range is anywhere from about 5.8 to 6.0

In the end I ended up filling up about 30 gallons of RO water in a 60 gallon sterile garbage can. I ph'd the 30 gal of RO 0 PPM water to 4.0 then added about 100 ml's of BSM to neutralize water then added the whole 30 gals of the concentrated tea to that. In the end my ph level was about 6.8 - 6.9 which I still thought was too high but didn't want to dilute anymore so i hand watered with ph at 6.8-6.9. I would really like to know what would have been tge best approach in that case. My cubes were very light so I was concerned of having high pH levels since they were super thirsty

Thanks for taking the time to read this lengthy thread any help or input you might have would be greatly appreciated

after its done brewing and its mixed in your rez Ph it to whatever your normal Ph is. ive found that brewing for 28-30 hours has a higher concentration of microbes. thats how ive been using it for 5 years. i also use a pump with a watering wander and have found that it had no effect with the efficiency of the tea. a single pass through a pump does minimal damage to the microbes, its the multiple passes that does alot of damage

Like was advised, you can pH the tea to the correct range once brewed without harm to the microbes, and neither brewers nor passage through a pump harms the microbes according to the companies owner.
OG Biowar for the win!

Best of luck.
Peace

Okay so let me get this straight...

The next time I brew 30-gallon tea I can put the 30 gallon concentrated tea in a sterile garbage can and add pH down dirextly to the concentrated tea without having to put pH down in a water dilution and then add it to the tea.

Basically you are saying it is ok for me to add ph down directly to the concentrated tea without water dilution?

Juat a heads up I am not putting the tea in a reservoir, I am trying to water my plants with just the concentrated tea every 10 days or so? I would think that adding pH down directly to the concentrated tea would kills some microbes etc

Here is a quote from the owner of OG Biowar.

Hope this helps. I had to go back and recheck my info, seems I was incorrect in my previous post.

Thirty gallons of tea should be stirred when adding pH Up or pH Down. A few teaspoons of acid or base will be mixed/diluted in the tea before any harm can come to bacteria in the brew. Be sure to mix well before taking the pH. When I was a lab manager making culture media for bacteria, we would set an electric stirrer into the drum, and hang a pH probe in the liquid. Add the pH solution ml by ml, and watch the pH meter. When the pH stops changing, determine if you need more..... I'm a microbiologist/chemist...I do sorta know what I'm talking about here. A regular liquid pump will not harm enough bacteria to make any difference...even multiple passes.

Has anyone ever seen the microorganisms in these products?

I'm sold on this stuff. I killed Russets and RA's with it and it's all I used. 4 day drench when light's got out full strength tea smoked them. And the RA's.. I do DTW and have 48 pots. So I would get 8 gallons of brew and when light's go off I would pull my pump out my rez and drop it in the brew and unload it to the plants letting it sit and do it's work while light's out. 4 days done. They are all gone. Now I just keep some tea in my rez at all times to keep the microbes alive and thriving.
So yeah. Best damn product I've ever used. Russets and RA'S are the worst thing you can have and it made them disappear. I'll use it forever..

issack,
My sentiments exactly.

I use it, 1 Heap Tbl of Root and Foliar in RO water, and apply with plenty runoff. No brewing. I'm not saying that there's only one correct way to use OGBW, but I do it this way because it works and it's easy. I'll usually opt for the lazy way. No RA's in about 3 years. Good luck. -granger

That's good to know Granger.

Yes actually when I was in need to find a solution a while back, your posts and words of encouragement on many other threads about this product, and people weren't listening. I read those, and went and did research and found out the merical.. so thanks dude.

My water comes out of the tap at 6.5 and I guess my soil and nutes are working together well because I don't think about ph anymore. But when I did used to pay attention to ph I think I remember that the ph in tea drops as you brew it. I guess y'all are on a deeper level as far as brewing time but I used to just brew till the ph got to the desired level. Nowadays I usually just mix and apply, no bubbling.

Ive had a lingering RA issue for months.
i have em under control to the point they're not causing probs with plants...........yet
but they are there.
Ive never used og biowar, trying figure out what size bag i need to get
how many tbs or tsp OR @ 4tsp per gallon how many gallons can i expect to get from say a 4 oz or 8 oz package or a pound?

2 pounds bag of foliar and root pack last me a long time. 3 tbsp each in 4 gallons. You can just use the foliar pack and you will be fine. Do a full strength root drenched when lights go out if you're indoors for 3 days.
I have killed RAs with ease with full strength brew 24 hour tea. I use it from day one with clone. Never see RA or fungus gnats .
You can also leave the sediment from the bottom after you strain the tea and fill back up with water and use half the biowar then add molasses for next treatment. So you have a constant tea brewing. Stuff is amazing.

thanx issack,
I can do that with ease, beats getting bottles of spectracide or whatever to deal with these
little demons,
btw those tailpipes are actually tiny devil horns