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Found some kind of bug/insect? (Black with a hint of white(fury) near the head

Merfolk

Member
So i was checkin out my plants, 4th week into flowering, notice my plants have holes in them, like there getting eaten, flipped a leaf over, and BAM, about 5 insects, i can barley even identify them, touched them and yep, they moved, also i notice about 50 small white eggs, very small as well..



unfortunately i cannot provide pictures yet, as im leaving for work right now, figured id make a swift post and hopefully get some aid!


Any idea's what the insects could be? could i get some links on what you may think it is?

i have some neem oil, will this kill them, or just slow them down ?

If i/we cannot identify them with my small discription i will try to get my macro to take macro pictures of them, but i doubt it will come clear as they are THAT SMALL.



My grow journal

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=132625


Thanks ahead of time!
 
Yes, from your description it does sound like spider mites.

Thats pretty much the worst insect problem you can have.

Have you seen any webs on your plants?

Does this look familiar?

1134sukalo_spidermiteseggs.jpg



Here is a link to The complete guide to sick plants, ph and pest trouble.



http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688


I will copy and paste what it says about spider mites here for you.






Spider mites:
Spider mites are by far the worst pest to have, because they are the hardest to kill and can literally kill any plant. They are by far more active in warmer climates than cold ones, they also suck sup from the leaves leaving tiny white spots on the leaves from where they suck on. The damage they do is just like thrips, but with spider mites they pierce the surface of the leaves and can show tiny holesor white speckling damage, unlike with thirps they eat the surface of the chlorophyll. You can tell when you have infestation of spider mites , because you will have distorted growth, shortened internodes and petioles.
When you have bad infestation you will see webbing with larva in them. You get spider mites from either store bought soil mostly when your soil is not sterilized. Most brands do not state weather or not they are, chances are if you buy cheap soil, you have a less likely chance of the soil being sterile.Also, bringing outdoor plants indoors, or getting plants from someone else who was infected with spidermites.
Spider mites live on the plant itself and are under the leaves most of the time and are usually are so tiny you can’t see them with the naked eye. In order to get rid of spider mites one of the best ways to start to get rid of them is to use NO-Pest strips.NO-Pest strips work well and should always be used with other methods. Neem oil helps get rid of them as well. Also by raising the humidity in your grow room a lot will kill the spider mites off, by them absorbing to much humidity and will burst. You can use soap solution like Safer Insecticidal Soap to get rid of most aphid problems. Use some tobacco juice and chili pepper powder added to this for mites. (see below how to make tabacco juice)
Pyrethrum should only be used in extreme circumstances directly on plants, It starts to breaks down around a week and is easily washed away with clear water or. If your plants are in flowering and you have spider mites, using safer chemicals is your best bet. The tobacco and pepper soap solution works well and should be used daily, spraying on the underside and top leaves and later the whole plant. Since spider mites are very residual to common products, you have to find or try any number of ones untill you get rid of them. make absolutly sure you retreat as stated, other wise you will get resistant spidermites and then you have a bigger battle on your hands.Also do not allow pets that go outside alot to be around indoor plants,mites have been known to be carried in from pets to plants. PLEASE NOTE, below are ways to get rid of spider mites, but no 2 mite infestations are identical, you almost always have to use different products to get rid of them, also make a habit to check for at least a whole month after thinking you got rid of them, that way your chances of the spider mites that became resistant breeding and then having a bigger problem. Make sure you spray your plant down very good and enough and on time.
Here are some more products that may help get rid of spider mites:

Chemicals
Hot Pepper Wax,Safer Yard & Garden Insecticide (which can be used right to the day of harvest),GNATROL( used in hydro in the water as well as soil),Doc's Neem Pest Soap,Safer Sticky Stakes,TR-11000 Pyrethrum. Anything that says dicofol on the back. ( should be used in vegging or early flowering)

Tabacco Juice recipe

Take 3 strong ciggeretes soak them over night in water
Boil it for 2 to 3 miniutes, let it cool off and spray the plants 3 to 4 times a week. You can add safer soap if you like to the mixture.
(make absolutly sure you use gloves/face protection while handling and spraying)
Neem oil works very well too!!
 

Merfolk

Member
Thanks very much for the prompt responses!




45 min before lights out, i covered my plants i feel, head to toe, in neem oil..


i also got some KiND of ROse fllower insect control that is plant Friendly, fights all insects and kills eggs, has canna oil in it, and some other odd named ingredient, perhaps ill try that tomarrow morning, or should i wait 2-3 days after the neem oil to add the other foiler?
 
I wouldn't try something that wasn't recommended here unless I was getting pretty desperate.

Spider mites are a tough fight, one that honestly I have never won without tearing down the grow room and bleaching everything out and starting fresh.
 

kmk420kali

Freedom Fighter
Veteran
I have not used it yet myself, but my other grower friends are swearing by Judo-- I know it is a veg only application, not in flower--

Judo™ Judo is a miticide/insecticide in a new chemical class (tetronic acids) with a new mode of action that is highly effective against a wide range of mites and whiteflies. Judo affects all development stages of mites and whiteflies (including eggs and transformation stages). Judo is translaminar and moves readily through the leaf tissue. Judo provides extended residual control of mites (30+ days) and whiteflies (21+ days).
Judo is a suspension concentrate (SC) containing 4 pounds of Spiromesifen per gallon.
New York State SLN Registration - (PDF)
Judo Technical Bulletin - (PDF)
judo.jpg
http://www.ohp.com/Products/judo.php
 

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