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Why are all PH chart different????

little-soldier

Active member
Hello fellow citizen of this f up world,

Can someone explain to me why there are a million ph charts from different sites and hardly any one of them is the same?

misinformation/disinformation maybe.. I wouldn't be surprise.. Anyways can someone point me to the right chart because this is damn ridiculous.
Thanks
 
One for hydro, one for soil. And plenty in between Would LOVE to hear the scientific explanation for the difference.

Same with vpd, there's a million different charts/recommendations
 

little-soldier

Active member
Just type in google "hydro ph chart" and look at the images.

First image that pops up is from growweedeasy.com which shows phosphorous is best absorbed between 6.2 to 5.5

Then look at H2grows chart. Phosphorous best absorbed only at 6.0 and up

Not to mention the 420magasine one which claims 5.8 to 6.1 only LOL.

Clown world we live in.
 

Switcher56

Comfortably numb!
... these are the 3 charts I use. Select a chart for what you are using and stick with it. You will be golden. The PH charts it what folks have posted here in the past.

picture.php

picture.php

picture.php


This is the chart I use, it is plain and simple!
 

little-soldier

Active member
What do you mean select a chart for what I am using...I'm using hydroponics and these are all hydro charts that contradict each other. I guess i'll have to make my own conclusions then.
I think I am finally starting to understand that the internet was never a good place for valuable information.
 

Switcher56

Comfortably numb!
What do you mean select a chart for what I am using...I'm using hydroponics and these are all hydro charts that contradict each other. I guess i'll have to make my own conclusions then.
I think I am finally starting to understand that the internet was never a good place for valuable information.
Duh! Both soil and hydro (from the same source) have been posted, choose the one for hydro. One thing that is important is a PH swing within the zone e.g 5.8 to 6.2, out of 5.5 to 6.5 for hydro <--- that info is in a few of my books. I use soil. Stick to "A" chart and adjust it (if needed) for what your are doing, or would you like me to spell it out for ya!
 

little-soldier

Active member
Never mind Switcher56, you don't seem to grasp the fact that the charts contradict each other so no way to really tell which one is the right one. Plus the fact that you say adjust it really shows that there is no science behind these charts so... I'll go with the flow and thanks but no thanks for your crappy attitude.
 

Switcher56

Comfortably numb!
Never mind Switcher56, you don't seem to grasp the fact that the charts contradict each other so no way to really tell which one is the right one. Plus the fact that you say adjust it really shows that there is no science behind these charts so... I'll go with the flow and thanks but no thanks for your crappy attitude.
Have a nice day! You've been around long enough to figure it out and if you haven't... IMHO it is high time you enlighten yourself.

Peace...
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Not sure what charts your looking at. Hydro I use 5.8-6.0. Soil I use 6.3-6.5. If your in the right range as indicted below your fine. Letting it float a point or 2 from time to time is OK. I do that



This is the chart Ive recommended for years. It is accurate.
 

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Joint Lock

Active member
What do you mean select a chart for what I am using...I'm using hydroponics and these are all hydro charts that contradict each other. I guess i'll have to make my own conclusions then.
I think I am finally starting to understand that the internet was never a good place for valuable information.


Set your ph to 5.8 let it rise to 6.2 and reset. Stonys chart in the above post is solid as it gets . The one ive followed for 20yrs now .
 

little-soldier

Active member
Thx hammerhead but if I follow this chart and use 5.8 to 6.0 for hydro then Mn will not be absorbed properly by the plants. Also a lot of people use 6.0-6.2 for coco and according to this chart not only would Mn not get absorbed properly but calcium too which is supposed to be very importent for coco. Unless there is another chart for coco lol. We should have a chart for every medium ;)
 

Fitzera

Active member
You've been given a chart and reasoning. And yet you dissect it looking to prove it as incorrect. I'm not sure its the internet as much as maybe it is you.

As has been said, choose a chart. If you feel like it's not up to your standards, adjust. It's that simple. I'm a very analytical person, I would prefer if things were black and white, unfortunately thats not the case. Especially when growing plants. Read the plants and adjust.
 

G.O. Joe

Well-known member
Veteran
Can someone explain to me why there are a million ph charts from different sites and hardly any one of them is the same?

There are those who know something about agricultural chemistry, there are those who create graphic art. Note that this chart says magnesium instead of manganese. Yet it is the most rational. The best question to ask for hydro is how well your metals are chelated. If they're soluble they're soluble whatever the pH is.

picture.php


I grow in soil and like my pH from 6.2 to 6.6 for best results.

Hemp references say Cannabis prefers alkaline over acid soil. Not the typical 8-9 alkaline soils that are also poor in most every other way, but over 7. Plants have strategies for obtaining iron from rust. Roots release H+, amino acids, chelating acids in response to things, like iron deficiency. Little iron is needed but if there's much water around, the transporter is washed away and it won't work. Organics and bacteria and fungi are obviously involved as well. This is the only difference between soil and hydro.
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Thx hammerhead but if I follow this chart and use 5.8 to 6.0 for hydro then Mn will not be absorbed properly by the plants. Also a lot of people use 6.0-6.2 for coco and according to this chart not only would Mn not get absorbed properly but calcium too which is supposed to be very importent for coco. Unless there is another chart for coco lol. We should have a chart for every medium ;)


Nope not true. I've used that chart for coco, soil, hydro. I wouldn't have posted it if it wasn't accurate. As I said letting it swing a few point from time to time is fine. Keeping your PH at 5.8 the whole grow cycle is not the best practice IMO. Letting it drop to 5.6 is fine, letting it rise to 6.2 is fine a few times. Don't forget some add PH buffers to there medium. Once you get the needed experience you will see what your plants like. Your over thinking it. That chart works fine.
 
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WHIPEDMEAT

Modortalan
Supermod
Veteran
first you need to know the medium and know its properties more inert the medium is pH levels are lower
 

ButterflyEffect

Well-known member
There are those who know something about agricultural chemistry, there are those who create graphic art. Note that this chart says magnesium instead of manganese. Yet it is the most rational. The best question to ask for hydro is how well your metals are chelated. If they're soluble they're soluble whatever the pH is.

View Image



Hemp references say Cannabis prefers alkaline over acid soil. Not the typical 8-9 alkaline soils that are also poor in most every other way, but over 7. Plants have strategies for obtaining iron from rust. Roots release H+, amino acids, chelating acids in response to things, like iron deficiency. Little iron is needed but if there's much water around, the transporter is washed away and it won't work. Organics and bacteria and fungi are obviously involved as well. This is the only difference between soil and hydro.

As I was reading this thread, I was going to post this very chart until I saw you had posted it.

This right here is the full-context answer. I've been researching more and more to learn myself and found the same information. It's amazing what happens when you shed all the broscience and shill bullshit out!

Not to threadjack, but what are your thoughts about root zone pH?
Specifically, I run hempys with 4:1 perlite/vermi. I feed Jacks 321 ~1.5EC @ 5.5pH, but my runoff is always around 7.0. I was using the Mr Fulvic with every feed, so I thought maybe that was causing it by way of chelation. In fact, it's a very dark color brown, so I thought that maybe it was really more humic and therefore more prone to higher pH.

I am having P def issues and there is leaf twisting like you see with high pH going on. I also have Ca issues and I thought maybe the high pH was locking out Boron.

Sorry again for the long-winded post, but with what you said about chelators and pH range availability, I figured it was relevent.
 

G.O. Joe

Well-known member
Veteran
The only ways I know around the spike is lots of irrigations or a little ammonium. Even in promix things can get out of hand easily once the plants get going.
 
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