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Sorry I didn't phrase that quite right. What I meant was, if urine can only contain 5% total dissolved solids. 2.2% salt content is close to half of the maximum amount of total dissolved solids in our urine.
I didn't mean to imply that half the content of our urine was salt. I meant close to half the dissolved solids in our urine is salt.
hope that clear up what I was trying to say.
peace. :friends:
I didn't mean to imply that half the content of our urine was salt. I meant close to half the dissolved solids in our urine is salt.
hope that clear up what I was trying to say.
peace. :friends:
Ok all hell breaks out now that someone's said pee was fertilizer...
Welll for those of you who say ewwwww I say it's fertilizer so get over it.
It used to be good fertilizer too before we started poisoning our bodies with all kinds of pills and other such nonsense.
If your interested Google the word humanure and you'll find that even our feces is not "good for shit" so to speak.
MI caught the whole drinkig lots of water before doing it, I suggest go slowly and work the doses up.
I've used it in teas for lawn, dog owners will tell you that a healthy dog leads to a healthy lawn.
Outdoor growers walk round all day with a sack full of ferts so why hike bottled of N to their guerilla grows???
Subs
Welll for those of you who say ewwwww I say it's fertilizer so get over it.
It used to be good fertilizer too before we started poisoning our bodies with all kinds of pills and other such nonsense.
If your interested Google the word humanure and you'll find that even our feces is not "good for shit" so to speak.
MI caught the whole drinkig lots of water before doing it, I suggest go slowly and work the doses up.
I've used it in teas for lawn, dog owners will tell you that a healthy dog leads to a healthy lawn.
Outdoor growers walk round all day with a sack full of ferts so why hike bottled of N to their guerilla grows???
Subs
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So the question still remains. Is there really to much salt in human urine to put in our potting soil that is to be re-used?
Are there methods like drinking excess water, to reduce salt content and increase nutrient content?
I don't consume much salt or processed foods. I eat manly from my garden that is fed compost only, I buy meats from local farmers and I don't take any med's other than that I grow. For health and economic reasons mainly. So my urine should already be low in salts and any other contaminants.
I'm not squeamish about using urine as fertilizer. It makes sense that its sterile and that no pathogens or parasite or eggs will end up in it, like they can our feces.
Are there methods like drinking excess water, to reduce salt content and increase nutrient content?
I don't consume much salt or processed foods. I eat manly from my garden that is fed compost only, I buy meats from local farmers and I don't take any med's other than that I grow. For health and economic reasons mainly. So my urine should already be low in salts and any other contaminants.
I'm not squeamish about using urine as fertilizer. It makes sense that its sterile and that no pathogens or parasite or eggs will end up in it, like they can our feces.
G
Guest
here's the link that vonforne already posted, it should answer all of your questions: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=21381
V
vonforne
I still think the sodium build up will affect the long term health of the re-used soil. Maybe nothte first time ....or maybe the second its hard to tell. You dont want to fluch all the nues out just to get the salt. Kinda defeats the purpose. But I would like to know also. Let me know how it turns out guanoman. But then again, if your diet is good and you consume very little sodium in your.....
3BM
Member
I use urine on my outdoor every year. I use the same soil with added compost each year. However, the rains of 6 monthes between plantings make this a completely different story than an indoor environment. You might duplicate this effect by running a few gallons of water through your pots before adding the dirt to the remix pile. Similiarly, sending the soil outside for a period of composting with other ingredients would remove any salt buildup.
A rich soil mix means that solubles serve only to supplement as necessary. Some weeks the plants get admired more than fertilized, and I rarely use the same fertilizer two weeks in a row. Feeding once a week (or less) and rarely duplicating ferts means that incorporating urine into such a regimine might see it used twice during 6 weeks of veg. I also use N during the first few weeks of flower, so lets assume urine is the N I choose. Now I have fed with urine 3 times, and will cut off N in soluble form to allow the plants to consume soil reserves and finally their own leaf reserves. A use like this probably would not contribute any unnecessary salt buildup, even without flushing the soil. A certain amount of salt is necessary for good plant health, and most municipal water supplies contain salt of some concentration. I have used unfiltered water in remixes before and never found salt buildup to be a problem. Suffice it to say, it seems logical that proper use of urine would work fine in recycled soil.
Good luck!
3_B_M
A rich soil mix means that solubles serve only to supplement as necessary. Some weeks the plants get admired more than fertilized, and I rarely use the same fertilizer two weeks in a row. Feeding once a week (or less) and rarely duplicating ferts means that incorporating urine into such a regimine might see it used twice during 6 weeks of veg. I also use N during the first few weeks of flower, so lets assume urine is the N I choose. Now I have fed with urine 3 times, and will cut off N in soluble form to allow the plants to consume soil reserves and finally their own leaf reserves. A use like this probably would not contribute any unnecessary salt buildup, even without flushing the soil. A certain amount of salt is necessary for good plant health, and most municipal water supplies contain salt of some concentration. I have used unfiltered water in remixes before and never found salt buildup to be a problem. Suffice it to say, it seems logical that proper use of urine would work fine in recycled soil.
Good luck!
3_B_M
G
Guest
if you eat food that contains added salt and/or use far more than the minimum effective dose of urine, then you might want to watch out for sodium toxicity. other than that, there is really nothing to worry about.
if anyone wants to do some research, google Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), Sodium Absorption Ratio (SAR), and Exchangeable Sodium Percentage (ESP).
if anyone wants to do some research, google Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), Sodium Absorption Ratio (SAR), and Exchangeable Sodium Percentage (ESP).
I would like to eventually have 2 batches of soil... after my first crop I will compost the used soil and use new.. Hopefully after the second crop I will use my original soil and compost the second batch. This is easy to say and since my current plants are only 12 days old I obviously dont know what I am talking about but am fascinated with organics. I even wondered about growing clover to naturally enhance my soil with nitrogyn between grows but then how would i get rid of the clover?
G
Guest
I have been composting and reusing some soil.
V
vonforne
the next step would be to start your own compost pile to replace the store bought ones. then you could add whenever you wanted to improve you soil. add a little and wait awhile and then add some more until you are satisfied with the texture and nutrient content. I have just remixed a batch adding all the admendments that I want for that mix. One for flower and one for veg.
admiralcornport
Active member
what are the amendments to add to reuse your soil? Obviously some kind of fertilizers, bone/blood meal, etc... but what are the micro organisms you speek of, can you get them easily? What are some brand names to look for at the hydro shop?
3BM
Member
Hey Admiral:
Microorganisms are part of the decay cycle, which serve to break down organic compounds and combine them into more complex forms (like vitamins, enzymes, amino acids, etc), and make them more readily accesible. Beneficial bacteria, fungi, nematodes, and many others are all part of this system. Having an active soil is the halmark of good organic gardening. Mature compost is the best source of bio-activity you can get. I recommend making your own pile, for more detail on how to start one check out the thread "A Compost Guide". Municipalities sometimes create compost with leaf and grass waste which can be purchased locally for low cost. Barring that composted manure, mushroom compost, and Earth Worm Castings are all available at garden retail locations and will work well to populate a mix with microorganisms. Many of these organisms are present in the air so that just adding organic matter to soil will soon yield colonized soil. I recommend adding organic matter (compost, manure, EWC) and then letting the soil sit for at least 2 weeks, but better yet 4 weeks. Reusing soil will ensure that every bit of your mix is well colonized.
For the basics on remixing soil, check out the thread "Organic Gold: Soil Heresy". You should start with a quality wood fiber based potting soil (like Fox farm Ocean Forest, or Shultz's Garden Safe, or even Miracle Grow Organic Feeding Formula). Use only organic slow release nutrients to supplement this soil (like compost, manure and EWC). Finally, choose a slow release source of N, P, and K. Check out Rainbow mix or FF Peace of Mind for pre-mixed NPK w/ added microorganism innoculants (in this case its fungus). Also check out the Earth Nectar (EN) product as a great soluble source of bacteria, fungi, and nematodes. Bear in mind that any microbial innoculant is probably just a take off of good quality compost, so save your self some money and start composting ASAP. Read through the Organic Gold threads (there are 4 maybe, you may have to go back a few pages to find them all), as they will get you started on soil life and soil remixes (including what amendments to look for). I hope this helps.
Good luck!
3_B_M
Microorganisms are part of the decay cycle, which serve to break down organic compounds and combine them into more complex forms (like vitamins, enzymes, amino acids, etc), and make them more readily accesible. Beneficial bacteria, fungi, nematodes, and many others are all part of this system. Having an active soil is the halmark of good organic gardening. Mature compost is the best source of bio-activity you can get. I recommend making your own pile, for more detail on how to start one check out the thread "A Compost Guide". Municipalities sometimes create compost with leaf and grass waste which can be purchased locally for low cost. Barring that composted manure, mushroom compost, and Earth Worm Castings are all available at garden retail locations and will work well to populate a mix with microorganisms. Many of these organisms are present in the air so that just adding organic matter to soil will soon yield colonized soil. I recommend adding organic matter (compost, manure, EWC) and then letting the soil sit for at least 2 weeks, but better yet 4 weeks. Reusing soil will ensure that every bit of your mix is well colonized.
For the basics on remixing soil, check out the thread "Organic Gold: Soil Heresy". You should start with a quality wood fiber based potting soil (like Fox farm Ocean Forest, or Shultz's Garden Safe, or even Miracle Grow Organic Feeding Formula). Use only organic slow release nutrients to supplement this soil (like compost, manure and EWC). Finally, choose a slow release source of N, P, and K. Check out Rainbow mix or FF Peace of Mind for pre-mixed NPK w/ added microorganism innoculants (in this case its fungus). Also check out the Earth Nectar (EN) product as a great soluble source of bacteria, fungi, and nematodes. Bear in mind that any microbial innoculant is probably just a take off of good quality compost, so save your self some money and start composting ASAP. Read through the Organic Gold threads (there are 4 maybe, you may have to go back a few pages to find them all), as they will get you started on soil life and soil remixes (including what amendments to look for). I hope this helps.
Good luck!
3_B_M
G
Guest
admiralcornport said:
my personal favourite is comfrey leaves. comfrey is an excellent compost activator/accelerator so it breaks down very quickly. i also add alfalfa, which needs no introduction.
admiralcornport
Active member
3BM thanks a million dude, This is funny... I have been using peace of mind, I usually put 40% perlite 60%good quality potting soil with no additives, add some peace of mind and dol lime, and liet it sit and think for a couple weeks. Sounds like I'm on the reight track.
3BM
Member
Hey Admiral:
Smurf is right! Try adding 1/2 potting soil to 1/2 compost (EWC, homemade, Mushroom comp., comp. manure) this will extend the potting soil (probably your most expensive emendment) and add richness to the mix. Then add perlite as you are accustomed. You are certainly on the right track. Potting soil works great. Peace of Mind works great. I take NPK sources individually and use Alfalfa meal, Rock Phosphate, Kelp Meal, and Greensand. I also add dolomitic lime (this will counteract the acidity of the compost/manure and add Ca, Mg). I add those elements to an active compost pile composed of manure (from a local horse farm) grass clippings, leaves, and food waste. Once mature add the compost 50/50 to good potting soil, and perlite to loosen. This will bring a complete range of NPK, trace minerals, vit, aminos, and enzyms. The compost will also innoculate the soil with diverse microorgansims. All without any cost at all. That being said, stick with what you know. If POM works well for you, then forge ahead. Adding compost to the soil should bring a welcome richness to the mix. Hope that helps.
3BM
Smurf is right! Try adding 1/2 potting soil to 1/2 compost (EWC, homemade, Mushroom comp., comp. manure) this will extend the potting soil (probably your most expensive emendment) and add richness to the mix. Then add perlite as you are accustomed. You are certainly on the right track. Potting soil works great. Peace of Mind works great. I take NPK sources individually and use Alfalfa meal, Rock Phosphate, Kelp Meal, and Greensand. I also add dolomitic lime (this will counteract the acidity of the compost/manure and add Ca, Mg). I add those elements to an active compost pile composed of manure (from a local horse farm) grass clippings, leaves, and food waste. Once mature add the compost 50/50 to good potting soil, and perlite to loosen. This will bring a complete range of NPK, trace minerals, vit, aminos, and enzyms. The compost will also innoculate the soil with diverse microorgansims. All without any cost at all. That being said, stick with what you know. If POM works well for you, then forge ahead. Adding compost to the soil should bring a welcome richness to the mix. Hope that helps.
3BM
