Plan your brewer so when filled to operating volume it is below the edges of the container by a good deal and cover with a piece of fabric or plastic
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10 min $10 DIY aerated compost tea ACT brewer
- Thread starter heady blunts
- Start date
Plan your brewer so when filled to operating volume it is below the edges of the container by a good deal and cover with a piece of fabric or plastic
T
tuinman
Figured I needed to just cover better, it's a bit of a pain when your output is looping outside the container and over the top edge.
Hey I pretty much replicated Headyblunts design, except i'm brewing 3 gal. in a 5 gal. bucket and using a 10-60 gal. pump. I can't get the water to flow thru the "p-trap" and i'm thinking it's the pump...I may go get a 60+ gal. pump to see if that's the problem...any input?
Get a Commercial Ecco 1 and your problem will be solved. I think it costs about 30-40$ at my hydro store.
I think your 3 gallons in the 5 gallon pail is a good idea. 2 gallons in that 5 gallon pail wouldn't work well because the 5 gallon pail is 12" wide. 3 gallons fits better and the sides are tall. I'm not versed in this, but that seems like it may work. The pump is likely low. Mine is likely high, but I can dial down.
Okay you guys, I've got a question for you. For those of you using the airlift design with pipe running outside the tank without glue, are you really getting no leaks, period?
I've built a ten gallon prototype which I'm trying to perfect for market. I used a bulkhead through a sidewall so to get a water cycle with a cheap container and to eliminate the need for a stand. It seems to work pretty darn good but I am getting tiny leaks. I left water in the system overnight and it is dripping a drop about every 10 seconds. This is acceptable for outdoor brewing but I wish to stop all leaks if I'm going to sell this unit.
BTW I ran a test with and without my designed diffuser and the flow was the same. Also the optimum pipe with the ECO 1 was one inch. The flow was the same with 1.25 inch but the turbulance at the surface was reduced. When using 0.75 inch pipe the flow was greatly reduced. Interesting physics.
I wish to do some experiments increasing the volume of the diffusion chamber.
I've built a ten gallon prototype which I'm trying to perfect for market. I used a bulkhead through a sidewall so to get a water cycle with a cheap container and to eliminate the need for a stand. It seems to work pretty darn good but I am getting tiny leaks. I left water in the system overnight and it is dripping a drop about every 10 seconds. This is acceptable for outdoor brewing but I wish to stop all leaks if I'm going to sell this unit.
BTW I ran a test with and without my designed diffuser and the flow was the same. Also the optimum pipe with the ECO 1 was one inch. The flow was the same with 1.25 inch but the turbulance at the surface was reduced. When using 0.75 inch pipe the flow was greatly reduced. Interesting physics.
I wish to do some experiments increasing the volume of the diffusion chamber.
MM- I'm not certain what your seal requirements are, but I found these to work the best: http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/829/Uniseals
I made some customized buckets for a previous grow style. I tested a few different fittings based on recommendations from various places. When I tested the best candidates, the Uniseals were by far my favorite. As with any other seals, the quality of the hole is key. I found hole saws to work the best, then de-burr.
They require no tapes, caulks, etc.
Anyway, not sure what you're requirements are and I'm probably off base.
I made some customized buckets for a previous grow style. I tested a few different fittings based on recommendations from various places. When I tested the best candidates, the Uniseals were by far my favorite. As with any other seals, the quality of the hole is key. I found hole saws to work the best, then de-burr.
They require no tapes, caulks, etc.
Anyway, not sure what you're requirements are and I'm probably off base.
Thanks RROG, That is interesting and could be a good replacement for the bulkhead but that is not where I'm leaking. It is inline couplings and bushings pushed together without glue which are leaking. Is there a similar product which you know of that will work in that application?
Are these seals easily taken apart and re-installed without wear or damage?
Many of us have bought from these folks: http://kentsystems.com/index.php?file=c-con_category_listing&iCategoryId=MTcw&show=Category Not sure if they may have what you want, but they seem very high quality.
The Uniseals I mentioned before are easy to disassemble. No glue. In fact, I just disassembled the pails I mentioned. No damage or wear. Could have quickly re-assembled in those original holes. Another very big plus to these Uniseals is that they work very well with the radius sides of a pail. Most fittings are optimized for flat surface bulkheads. Uniseals work well in either.
The Uniseals I mentioned before are easy to disassemble. No glue. In fact, I just disassembled the pails I mentioned. No damage or wear. Could have quickly re-assembled in those original holes. Another very big plus to these Uniseals is that they work very well with the radius sides of a pail. Most fittings are optimized for flat surface bulkheads. Uniseals work well in either.
Ya, quick connects is going to increase the price too much. I really like the look of the uniseals though. I have an old account at aquatic-eco. Maybe I'm still good for wholesale there. They might not be so happy with me since I started making my own diffusers ;>
I really want to hear from the guys who have their simple systems running which are displayed in the thread as too whether thay really have zero leaks. eg. Bullfrog, Darkman, etc.
I really want to hear from the guys who have their simple systems running which are displayed in the thread as too whether thay really have zero leaks. eg. Bullfrog, Darkman, etc.
Thanks Dark. Why are you so lucky?
rrog; On the uniseal, does it tolerate flexing without leaking, that is up or down pressure exerted on the pipe inserted into it?
Na, this is sitting not running full of water overnight.
Did you guys check for the tiniest bit of moisture?
laugh
yes MM,i have had this for a while & check for leaks every time
but i dont just let water sit in it, ually got it brewing if thers agua in ther
must just be a smooth operator
the pull of the vortex and push of the air gets the water flowing in the direction i wish with out any leaks what so ever
yes MM,i have had this for a while & check for leaks every time
but i dont just let water sit in it, ually got it brewing if thers agua in ther
must just be a smooth operator
the pull of the vortex and push of the air gets the water flowing in the direction i wish with out any leaks what so ever
MM - When running pure water I get about a drip every 5-10 min coming out of certain fittings. If I add my brew, that leak stops completely. Here is a simple solution for you, provide a "No hub coupling" for any problem leaks for people. Also, I would just glue together some of the smaller fittings that would still be easy to clean. For example, my ball valve is glued to the strait pipe that comes out of my T. No reason to not glue that fitting because the pipe that connects the T to the Ball valve is only 4" long.
I have made over 20 brews now and no wear on the fittings at all. I hear people talk about that but I have not seen ANY damage to my fittings what so ever. I even snug mine up with a rubber mallet, so they get a good beating.
Picture for reference to what I was talking about in the first paragraph.
I have made over 20 brews now and no wear on the fittings at all. I hear people talk about that but I have not seen ANY damage to my fittings what so ever. I even snug mine up with a rubber mallet, so they get a good beating.
Picture for reference to what I was talking about in the first paragraph.
