Got Broad Mites

liquidcooled420 · Feb 4, 2017

Hey everyone,

Unfortunately I just found out I have broad mites. Its kind of a relief to actually confirm that I have them, so now I can try and fix the problem. I really didn't think I had them because I'm in New England and don't know anyone who has had them.

I have scoped plants in the past with a high powered usb scope, but finally i saw them with just a hand held scope. Not all of the plants are showing damage so I'm hoping to try and get rid of them without tossing every plant.

I know there are tons of threads on this but I'm wondering what are the current methods of battling these things.

I have Conserve Sc (spinosad) and Avid along with the proper equipment and ventilation so I am thinking of going that route. Avid for veg and spinosad in early flower
Can someone tell me the recommended dosage for these and anything else I should be using in rotation?

I plan on ordering some predator bugs also, what is a good vendor for these and how often do they need to be released?

Any tips or suggestions would be awesome

raphenilweed · Feb 5, 2017

Hi. Bummer about the broad mites. You have many options for treatment depending on how much you want to spend or do. I have read/heard a number of ways people have gotten rid of broad mites. Whatever you choose I absolutely suggest to treat every 3 days to knock out every life stage of the bug. My treatment is Pylon, Forbid, Pyganic, Dr Zymes, Neem, Organicide, Og Biowar then Predatory mites. You can mix in just plain water to give em a rinse.
Good luck and when you think they are gone keep at it for a bit longer.

dank.frank · Feb 5, 2017

Avid and Forbid. Don't even waste time with spinosad and softy organic sprays. Seriously. Go big or lose with these guys.

They will destroy your garden and you will lose everything. Speaking from experience.

On a side note, they are not visible at all until you get to about a 40x magnification. If your hand held isn't that powerful, then that isn't what you are seeing.

This is what they do in SMALL populations before they really get established. This plant was at 5wk flower.

dank.Frank

CaptainKrunch · Feb 5, 2017

can you please post some pics of your leafs..

can you please post some pics of your leafs..

i think got some too... based on leaf symptoms but cant seem to find any with the microscope. any particlular place i should look on the plant

dank.frank · Feb 5, 2017

Yes. Look in particular at the new bud sites and where new growth is forming at the internodes. Not even just underside of the leaves, but spread open the new growth and examine it.

Broad mites a NOT as common as so many other various pests. There was a massive outbreak when GSC was first distributed and I'm still not 100% convinced this wasn't done intentionally. It wrecked many gardens.

The price of having to have the newest thing before everyone else. Nothing like being defeated by something microscopic and losing a decade of work to make you rethink your priorities. :joint:

dank.Frank

liquidcooled420 · Feb 5, 2017

Thanks for the replies.

dank.frank, I am using a 30x/60x jewelers loupe with a led light on it. At first I was looking for thrips and when i focused in on a new growing tip there was enough mites moving around that i was able to spot them even though they appeared tiny. I looked at them under the usb scope and was able to identify them for certain.

Is the heat treatment worthwhile? I've heard it works good in tents but in bigger rooms its hard to get everything to temp.

dank.frank · Feb 5, 2017

I suppose what method you employ to fight them would be 100% dependent upon what stage of growth you are in.

I certainly wouldn't advocate spraying ANYTHING...regardless of what it is...on a flowering plant.

Harsh chems like avid and forbid - can kill plants before it kills the bugs.

Heat treatment mid-late flower and you'll scorch your flowers and open them up and elongate them, etc, etc.

So you really have to consider the entire situation.

I look at the heat treatment as a ROOM / BUILDING treatment - not a plant treatment. If you don't do something to mitigate them in the ENTIRE complex, every surface, then you are going to find them again.

I lost the battle and had to start again from seed. I let my room sit empty for 3-4 months to ensure they were gone...even after following protocol.

dank.Frank

Chili_berkster · Feb 5, 2017

I had them bad. Real bad, my brother who worked for dow agri gave me 2 products. Pylon and Judo. The plants were so bad I thought for sure they were all gonners. Soaked the plants from top to bottom with pylon. After a cpl days there was new growth!. Sprayed with Judo after a week and the plants were really looking better. After alternating sprays every 3 days for about 60 days, all plants recovered and no more trace of BM today. This was summer of 16. Get Pylon and Judo. happy growing.

zoo · Feb 5, 2017

take dank.franks advice Avid/Forbid go big or go home

I got broads when gg4 was being spread around.

I decided against spraying nasty chemicals. So I took clones of everything and once they rooted they got dipped in a bucket of avid/forbid (separately) in 2 separate cycles 5 days apart to kill the life cycle

don't waste your time with organic methods. heat treatment doesn't work

zoo · Feb 5, 2017

p.s. that pic frank uploaded makes me shudder. broad mites are the worst pests to get if you can get rid of them you can get rid of anything

Zeez · Feb 5, 2017

You can go organic. The pic below is from my garden a month ago. They were gone in two weeks. Do yourself a favor and get SNS 209 and SNS 217. Certified organic. Any other stuff - read the label carefully. Any doubts call Sierra Natural Science.

liquidcooled420 · Feb 5, 2017

Thanks guys.

Chili_berkster, holy shit those are expensive! Not saying they aren't worth it, but god damn.

Does anyone know if pylon or judo is sold in smaller amounts than 8oz?

CaptainKrunch · Feb 5, 2017

these are some pics of mine tell me what you think ill take a closer look tomorrow and try and get some close up pics...these buggers are hiding from me.

Storm Shadow · Feb 5, 2017

Go Super Saiyan Blue God Mode and Ki Blast the shit out of them

dank.frank · Feb 5, 2017

Zeez said:
You can go organic. The pic below is from my garden a month ago. They were gone in two weeks. Do yourself a favor and get SNS 209 and SNS 217. Certified organic. Any other stuff - read the label carefully. Any doubts call Sierra Natural Science.

View Image

I don't think this is a broad mite, but perhaps a russet mite. Broads are more translucent. Russets still present a degree of difficulty above your standard spider mite, though.

Those things you suggest ARE NOT going to kill broad mites.

I'm a VERY strict organic grower. I NEVER spray cannabis in flower. I do run a fully organic IPM for barriers/preventative measures in veg. I still stand by my statements. If you want to keep your garden. If you have anything you value genetic wise. GO BIG OR GO HOME.

Don't waste your time "trying" something with broad mites. I lost a decade of work - my favorite breeding males and my absolute favorite parent line mothers. These lines for obvious reasons were not shared in other gardens and backed up.

I repeat. Do not mess around with them if you are 100% that you have broad mites. Find the mostly deadly toxic thing you can find for those evil bastards!

dank.Frank

liquidcooled420 · Feb 5, 2017

Last night I applied avid 1ml/gal and Conserve SC 6ml/gal together in one spray solution. 24 hours later i am scoping them and can only find dead ones, nothing moving. I'm sure some are still alive but it is working. Will be using Forbid as soon as it comes in.

I ordered a hudson fogger/atomizer and indicate5 wetting agent to help get better foliar coverage. Anyone have any tips on using the atomizer, other than don't point it at your face?

captainKrunch, those pics do look like growth i was getting, but on the other hand there are lots of things that can cause plants to look like that. Here are some pics of the leaves that finally tipped me off, I thought it was thrip damage maybe. Get a scope with a good light on it and check the growing tips. I can spot them easily with 60x and good light. I was using a high powered scope in the past but it was so zoomed in that i think i was missing them. The 60x is better for scouting, they move fast enough that I can spot them.

I think I had them for quite some time because every now and then i would get plants in flower with pistils that would die back in mid flower. But just recently I put a new batch of plants into flower and within a couple weeks all the pistils that were trying to form would just turn black and shrivel up. I thought it was an overdose of organic top dress amendments but when i saw that leaf damage in veg I had a feeling it was bugs.

I will upload some pics of the stunted flowers when lights come on.

raphenilweed · Feb 6, 2017

sounds like you are on the right path. however I wouldn't mix them. only rotate through them. The more variety of things you send at them the more likely you will remove them for long term. Also keeping them wet with just plain water can inhibit them from being productive.

With the atomizer you can take a step back or two and always spray the undersides.

Zeez · Feb 6, 2017

dank.frank said:
I don't think this is a broad mite, but perhaps a russet mite. Broads are more translucent. Russets still present a degree of difficulty above your standard spider mite, though.

Those things you suggest ARE NOT going to kill broad mites.

I'm a VERY strict organic grower. I NEVER spray cannabis in flower. I do run a fully organic IPM for barriers/preventative measures in veg. I still stand by my statements. If you want to keep your garden. If you have anything you value genetic wise. GO BIG OR GO HOME.

Don't waste your time "trying" something with broad mites. I lost a decade of work - my favorite breeding males and my absolute favorite parent line mothers. These lines for obvious reasons were not shared in other gardens and backed up.

I repeat. Do not mess around with them if you are 100% that you have broad mites. Find the mostly deadly toxic thing you can find for those evil bastards!

dank.Frank

Dank Frank

Sorry to hear about your loss.

I had to go to the Guru for this. SNS has one additional product called 244 to be used in combination with 217 and 209. They also have a free broad mite kit. All you have to do is pay the shipping. They know all about broad mites, so there is no voodoo or heavy chemicals required.

The additional product, SNS 244, is a fungicide because part of the problem with broad mites is that they create a fungus that stays with the plants and continues to cause problems. 217 and 244 are foliar and when sprayed kill on contact. The 209 is a systemic root drench that will make the plant resistant and undesirable to most bugs, including broad mites. I use 209 for IPM and it's certified organic.

Additionally, I was advised that the application is more effective in a finer mist due to the very small size of the broad mites. An atomizer or very fine sprayer is best.

This is a really "clean" way to go and get the _job done_. Toxic stuff shouldn't be in your house, the air you breathe or your consumables.

I don't work for SNS but I have used their products successfully dealing with bad problems. They have gained my trust. The 209 is certified organic and the 217 & 244 are organic but not certified. They do have similar products that are certified organic in their commercial agricultural section.

liquidcooled420 · Feb 7, 2017

Thanks everyone for your advice. I really appreciate it.

I just got a hudson fogger for spraying the plants, I'm going to try it out today, looks like its going to help a bunch.

I am going to start watering with uncoated asprin and see if that helps bring back some health to the plants. Anyone notice that this helps?

Here are some pics of the stunted flowering plants before i tossed them.

As far as heat treatments for the room I can't find any space heaters locally that don't have the high heat shutoff. Any suggestions on what heaters to use.?

jidoka · Feb 7, 2017

https://keytolifegarden.com/

It is not listed yet but ask for Silver Bullet which is micronized sulfer. 3-5 grams per gallon with a strong wetting agent and some fulvic acid. Dip the plants as opposed to spraying. This is a contact killer so don't fuck around with spray. Repeat at 55 hours two times.

I do not represent them and don't recommend anything else they make. But I saw this work on a very large scale

Got Broad Mites

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