Incredible Results: Dyna Gro recipe

I have been growing for several years and have used a wide variety of nutrient lines and products. I have been getting some of the best yields of my career with Dyna Gro, and I would like to share my experience with this line.

Firstly, for those who aren't familiar, Dyna Gro makes a number of one part solutions and a few supplements and other products that are all extremely high quality. They make the best one part solutions on the market. Anyone who wants to dispute this has no idea what they are talking about.

This "recipe" calls for Grow, Bloom, Protekt, KLN, and Mag-Pro. Every one of these products is seriously concentrated so you are getting a ton of bang for your buck. For most of the products you only need a few ml per gallon so you can easily finish an entire grow with just a couple of quarts. This is definitely the least expensive high performance line available.

The recipe also calls for the addition of beneficial microorganisms. Great white or Oregonisms are both good choices. This will make a huge difference. You should also include some sea kelp extract such as thrive alive b1 or whatever floats your boat. Finally, you will also need some type of sweetener such as flora nectar or just some good old molasses.


So, the total product list:

Grow
Bloom
Protekt
KLN
Mag-pro
Sea Kelp product
Beneficial Microrganisms (particularly bacillus and mycorizzhae)
Sweetener



Start off with Grow, KLN, Protekt, Beneficials, and a little bit of sea kelp. If you get thrive alive b1 dont over do it because KLN also contains b1. Dosage obviously depends on medium and countless other variables. If you have questions on the dosage I recommend calling the company and asking to talk to ryan. He is the one who turned me on to the sea kelp, sweetener, and beneficials (even though they aren't dyna gro products..... Pretty legit, eh?) It was the addition of those products that really pushed my results over the top. He also gave me a ppm breakdown on all the products in terms of the number of ppm's that are added to a gallon of water for every 5ml used:

Grow and Bloom - Every 5ml adds 350 ppm to a gallon of water
Protekt - Every 5ml adds 160 ppm to a gallon of water
Mag-Pro - Every 5ml adds 340 ppm to a gallon of water
KLN - Negligible

Those numbers can be used to figure out what dosage to use to get your desired ppms.

You should start off with about 2ml per gallon of protekt and end up at 4ml per gallon after 2 weeks veg. You can stick with that dosage all the way through flower. Don't listen to people who say to stop using silicon in flowering. Use it all the way up until the flush. Again, anyone who says different has no idea what they are talking about.


Because Dyna Gro is so concentrated it is easy to overuse so I find that flushing every couple of weeks really helps avoid any accumulation of fertilizer salts. If used properly buildup up is very minimal.

Use the sweetener at a low concentration during veg to give the beneficials a little extra food and then use it at full strength during flowering. The sea kelp should also be used continuously. When you switch to 12/12 switch directly from the grow to the bloom formula. The drop in nitrogen and spike in phosphorous will really help the plant begin flowering quickly. The high levels of phophorous are less necessary for the rest of flowering than most people understand but it can actually stress the plant a bit and increase essential oil production so there is a method to their madness. You should also add about 2.5 ml of Mag pro in the first week of bloom to assist in the transition. You can then cut off mag pro after the first week and start it up again at about 1.25ml per gallon for weeks 4,5 and 6.

Always finish with a flush obviously, I find 10 days to be perfect.


Dyna Gro is the simplest, easiest to use, least expensive, and most effective line I have ever used now that I have gotten everything tuned in with the addition of those few select products. I spend hundreds less on my nutes, spend way less time mixing solutions, and I am getting better results than ever before.

I strongly encourage people to try this recipe as well as using the base nutes and protekt in your own regimens and see the difference it makes. Dyna Gro is the standard for research at universities for a reason.

Sweet. I switched to dyna gro this grow and am glad to hear that someone else did the same research I did. I am just using the grow bloom and pro tek. Along with BMO Tonic and some seaweed applied mostly as a foiler though. Thanks again!

Not to piss on your parade or anything, since I appreciate you taking the time to type a structured, well-thought out post, but the problem with claims like these is that they are never backed up with hard data by the author.

Please don't take any offense by my skepticism since we've got corporate drones (ie Sensibowl from Adv. Nutrients) buzzing around advertising "covertly". I would love to hear about other product lines you have used in the past and why they were inferior. With what sounds like a motherload of growing experience in the bag, would you mind helping neophite growers such as myself understand what to look for when selecting base nutrients/supplements in addition to the specific npk ratios we should shoot for throughout the plant life cycle?

This hobby is a continuous learning process and just being told what to buy for good results just isn't very productive, especially when folks throw out same claims but with different brands.

feelingfactory said:

Not to piss on your parade or anything, since I appreciate you taking the time to type a structured, well-thought out post, but the problem with claims like these is that they are never backed up with hard data by the author.

Please don't take any offense by my skepticism since we've got corporate drones (ie Sensibowl from Adv. Nutrients) buzzing around advertising "covertly". I would love to hear about other product lines you have used in the past and why they were inferior. With what sounds like a motherload of growing experience in the bag, would you mind helping neophite growers such as myself understand what to look for when selecting base nutrients/supplements in addition to the specific npk ratios we should shoot for throughout the plant life cycle?

This hobby is a continuous learning process and just being told what to buy for good results just isn't very productive, especially when folks throw out same claims but with different brands.

Click to expand...

Hey feeling. I appreciate your post and I think its a valid point you bring up. The reason why I provided little supporting evidence was because the post was not intended to talk about how great Dyna gro is. (although it kinda turned into that at the end because I seriously love this stuff) My original intention was to share with people the combination of products that I found to work best along with the Dyna Gro base nutes and supplements to get some truly impressive results.

I didn't realize there are that many "corporate drones" on here but I can tell you I am nothing but a very satisfied user. I also just want to point out that the cannabis crowd really doesn't seem to be the target market for Dyna Gro based on their products, website, and company history. If I were on their payroll I would probably be posting on the orchid forums, haha.

As far as my past experience goes I would be glad to share: I have done grows with canna, GH, botanicare, House and Garden, technaflora, and humboldt nutrients. At one time I had close to 200 plants under my direct care growing in many different mediums. So, while I may have only done 2 cycles with a given line, my results are spread over dozens and dozens of plants of different varieties, strains, and growing styles. When it comes to one parts, I have run FloraNova, Pura vida, Pure Blend Pro, CNS17, humboldt's oneness, and Dyna Gro. Dyna Gro was by far the best line. Even against GH's flora series, canna coco a+b, and house and garden's watered down bullshit. Again, the yields and quality have been superior with Dyna Gro. In addition, the root growth, branching and plant structure, minimal stretching, rapid transition, outrageous stem strength, and other benefits I have noticed with dyna gro just put the icing on the cake. Their products are also more concentrated so you are not paying for water. Not to mention dyna gro is the only company that has figured out how to get all 16 essential elements into a one part solution. That tells me that they know what they're doing.

As far as n-p-k ratios the best thing I can tell you is that most people have no clue what they are talking about. If you look at plant tissue analyses you will see that there is very little difference in nutritional requirements for plants in vegetative and flowering growth. Im sure there will be a bunch of wanna be pseudoscientists who will claim I am wrong but I can refer you to dozens of texts which show this not only to be true in cannabis but also every other fruiting and flowering plant on the planet. You could run an excellent grow with a 3-2-4 solution the entire way through. You can manipulate the plant into a faster transition with a drop in nitrogen and a spike in phosphorous and could potentially increase essential oil production with high p levels but you could also hermie your plants out if you do too much.

Did you know that a 10-10-10 solution is not actually 10-10-10 when it comes to the actual elemental content? If you look at the derived from section on the bottles you can see that P is listed as p2o5. This means there are 5 oxygen atoms attached to the two phosphorous and that oxygen is included in the calculation of the 10-10-10 ratio. To figure out the true phosphorous content you need to subtract the molecular weight of the oxygen from the equation and you end up with roughly 43% of the actual number being P. The same goes for K. It is represented as K20. So, you removed the weight of the oxygen molecule and end up with something like 84% of the original value. Therefore, a 10-10-10 formula is actually 10 - 4.2 - 8.4 give or take.

Doesn't this completely change your thinking? Im sure people reading this are saying "how do people not talk about this?" Thats right everyone, this huge concept of n-p-k ratios on the front of the bottle doesn't even represent the actual ratios you are giving to your plant.


I need to get some sleep but I will post some more information tomorrow about the misconceptions that have been perpetuated in the industry. Its all a big scam to take your money and keep you spending more and more. I was falling for it for years until I decided to educate myself and once I did that I realized that Dyna Gro is the way to go. There is no super secret technology to better plants. Its mostly just the same stuff in different packaging. However, when it comes to dyna gro, there is nothing else like it.

I will try and dig up some pictures of past grows and any other documentation to help demonstrate some of the results I have achieved with different lines. I look forward to this developing into a very educational and interesting thread.

That is a very good point you bring up concerning true npk numbers. It is indeed not a well known fact.

Concerning the ratios (assume X:Y as 1:3), I am currently trying to find out whether or not plants will preferentially absorb X when X is in high demand even though there is three times more Y in solution to displace X. I'm also wondering if certain ratios are more ideal for uptake by roots. However, the impression I got from your post is that folks make too big a fuss about the ratios (since nutritional requirements do not change much) and should just focus on providing quality nutrient sources (ie. phosphites as opposed to phosphates, humic/fulvics in conjunction with chemical fertilizers to chelate them, etc.) for their plants.

A background in human biology and medicine sure doesn't help here...should have taken some botany electives while I was still an undergrad!

Looking forward to additional information concerning your experiences with DynaGro. I'm currently researching H&G, Canna, and DynaGro products to use in my next cycle. Hard to dig up information about what goes into each brand's base nutrients.

cannabomber said:

I have been growing for several years and have used a wide variety of nutrient lines and products. I have been getting some of the best yields of my career with Dyna Gro, and I would like to share my experience with this line.

Firstly, for those who aren't familiar, Dyna Gro makes a number of one part solutions and a few supplements and other products that are all extremely high quality. They make the best one part solutions on the market. Anyone who wants to dispute this has no idea what they are talking about.

This "recipe" calls for Grow, Bloom, Protekt, KLN, and Mag-Pro. Every one of these products is seriously concentrated so you are getting a ton of bang for your buck. For most of the products you only need a few ml per gallon so you can easily finish an entire grow with just a couple of quarts. This is definitely the least expensive high performance line available.

The recipe also calls for the addition of beneficial microorganisms. Great white or Oregonisms are both good choices. This will make a huge difference. You should also include some sea kelp extract such as thrive alive b1 or whatever floats your boat. Finally, you will also need some type of sweetener such as flora nectar or just some good old molasses.


So, the total product list:

Grow
Bloom
Protekt
KLN
Mag-pro
Sea Kelp product
Beneficial Microrganisms (particularly bacillus and mycorizzhae)
Sweetener



Start off with Grow, KLN, Protekt, Beneficials, and a little bit of sea kelp. If you get thrive alive b1 dont over do it because KLN also contains b1. Dosage obviously depends on medium and countless other variables. If you have questions on the dosage I recommend calling the company and asking to talk to ryan. He is the one who turned me on to the sea kelp, sweetener, and beneficials (even though they aren't dyna gro products..... Pretty legit, eh?) It was the addition of those products that really pushed my results over the top. He also gave me a ppm breakdown on all the products in terms of the number of ppm's that are added to a gallon of water for every 5ml used:

Grow and Bloom - Every 5ml adds 350 ppm to a gallon of water
Protekt - Every 5ml adds 160 ppm to a gallon of water
Mag-Pro - Every 5ml adds 340 ppm to a gallon of water
KLN - Negligible

Those numbers can be used to figure out what dosage to use to get your desired ppms.

You should start off with about 2ml per gallon of protekt and end up at 4ml per gallon after 2 weeks veg. You can stick with that dosage all the way through flower. Don't listen to people who say to stop using silicon in flowering. Use it all the way up until the flush. Again, anyone who says different has no idea what they are talking about.


Because Dyna Gro is so concentrated it is easy to overuse so I find that flushing every couple of weeks really helps avoid any accumulation of fertilizer salts. If used properly buildup up is very minimal.

Use the sweetener at a low concentration during veg to give the beneficials a little extra food and then use it at full strength during flowering. The sea kelp should also be used continuously. When you switch to 12/12 switch directly from the grow to the bloom formula. The drop in nitrogen and spike in phosphorous will really help the plant begin flowering quickly. The high levels of phophorous are less necessary for the rest of flowering than most people understand but it can actually stress the plant a bit and increase essential oil production so there is a method to their madness. You should also add about 2.5 ml of Mag pro in the first week of bloom to assist in the transition. You can then cut off mag pro after the first week and start it up again at about 1.25ml per gallon for weeks 4,5 and 6.

Always finish with a flush obviously, I find 10 days to be perfect.


Dyna Gro is the simplest, easiest to use, least expensive, and most effective line I have ever used now that I have gotten everything tuned in with the addition of those few select products. I spend hundreds less on my nutes, spend way less time mixing solutions, and I am getting better results than ever before.

I strongly encourage people to try this recipe as well as using the base nutes and protekt in your own regimens and see the difference it makes. Dyna Gro is the standard for research at universities for a reason.

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What you meant to say bro, is all the other nute mfg are giving us the bone by watering down the nutes on a 1:100 ratio...

And then making us buy "additives" to get what we get with dyna gro... Great white also a great inexpensive way to get all the bennies...

We will see about that 100% guarantee on the other brand of nutes I own when I send them back...

good info there cannabomber. so whats your take on dyna gro's bloom formula 3-12-6 is'nt that a rather high phosphorus ratio for a bloom compared to other brands ratio's to be using throughout the bloom period ? also what other bloom addatives would you recomend to use with dyna bloom or is the mag pro enough. thanks.

highvolt said:

good info there cannabomber. so whats your take on dyna gro's bloom formula 3-12-6 is'nt that a rather high phosphorus ratio for a bloom compared to other brands ratio's to be using throughout the bloom period ? also what other bloom addatives would you recomend to use with dyna bloom or is the mag pro enough. thanks.

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I could go on for a few pages about this so I'll try and keep it quick. Your plants will do their best to absorb what they need from your solution. High levels of P are way over hyped, yes, but as I said they can serve a purpose. Stressing the plant for more essential oil production being the primary one. The low nitrogen is supposed to help the plant devote energy to flower growth not leaf growth. Once you cut the 12% P down to its actual elemental content you are at more like 5, and the K comes down to about 5 as well. 3-5-5 actual ratios are pretty decent. High phosphorous but not too high, low nitrogen but not to low, plenty of K.

HOWEVER

From a scientific standpoint, you should be able to use something like a 4-1-4 (actual concentration) formula the entire way through. The fact that plants do well on so many different ratios from so many different companies and products proves one thing:


Ratios are way over hyped. Bloom formulas and boosters are way over hyped. Give your plants high quality, complete formulas that are in reasonable ratios and you will have good results. Environmental factors are much more influential than people give credit for. The plant needs a 12-12 light cycle to flower, the bloom formulas are just our attempt to enhance that (and for companies to make more money.) I haven't done it yet but I plan to do a test using Foliage-Pro or Grow the entire way through with just a one week switch to bloom when I switch to 12-12. Then back to Foliage-Pro or Grow + Mag-Pro for some extra sulfur (higher levels of sulfur increase essential oil production. Don't believe me? READ A FUCKIN BOOK) The switch for week one of flower would be to assist the plant to transition faster as there is evidence that a drop in nitrogen and spike in phosphorous can speed up the transition. The actual nutritional REQUIREMENTS change very little though, so after the first week I'll go back to the original formula.

As far as bloom boosters go, Mag-pro is fine and other bloom boosters really shouldn't be needed. Feel free to experiment though and let us know what you find.

p.s. Still working on getting pics up here. Everything is on my old computer which is all boxed up so I have to bust it out and transfer them over. I will have pics up of my results with different products in a few days.

I keep hearing lots of good things about dyna-gro, anyone know if they have a UK distributor? I've not seen them for sale anywhere here.

I've requested Dyna Gro, specifically the Protekt at my local shop. They have to special order it from 4 provinces over, but I talked them into it. Hopefully they like the line and decide to carry it regularly...

funkymonkey said:

I keep hearing lots of good things about dyna-gro, anyone know if they have a UK distributor? I've not seen them for sale anywhere here.

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Hey Monkey. Always nice to hear from growers from across the pond. I was talking to a guy the other day who lives in the UK and uses Dyna so its definitely available somewhere. I will message him and find out where he gets it. I'll let you know what the guy says. Take it easy.

cannabomber--What medium are you talking about? I'm assuming soil but sorry if I missed it.

Also, what are your thoughts on organics? (EWC, guanos, etc... not the bottled stuff)

Thanks. I'm always interested in other people's experiences and opinions.

John Deere said:

cannabomber--What medium are you talking about? I'm assuming soil but sorry if I missed it.

Also, what are your thoughts on organics? (EWC, guanos, etc... not the bottled stuff)

Thanks. I'm always interested in other people's experiences and opinions.

Click to expand...

Hey John. When ask what medium "Im talking about" Im not sure if that was in reference to something I said specifically or if youre asking what medium my "recipe" is designed for. To answer both questions, I am talking about any medium. I have used this recipe in coco, peat moss, soil, deep water culture, flood and drain with hydroton, and even in an aeroponic system. The concept that a nutrient is specifically designed for a certain medium is definitely valid, but from a scientific perspective there are very few reasons why a product will work in one medium but not another. Of course there are variables like cation exchange capacity and other factors but for the most part, a well made nutrient should be fairly versatile. There are certain things you should know about the growing medium so you can make adjustments in your feeding but the basic components are all the same. For example, coco has a tendency to hold onto magnesium and calcium. So, I will keep an eye out for those deficiencies and simply increase my base nute dosage if I see them develop because calcium and magnesium are right there in the base nutes. Also, when it comes down to it, this problem is not a problem with the nutrient it is a drawback of the growing medium. If you choose to use coco you are opening the possibility for Ca and Mg deficiencies so you should be prepared for that. A really simple way to adjust the recipe for coco would be to simply add a little bit of cal-mag, but I personally have never had a problem using this recipe for coco. If you are growing in a sphagnum moss mix it is likely that it has already been treated with dolomitic lime in order to raise the Ph as sphagnum moss has a starting Ph between 3.5 and 4.5. Dolomitic lime adds a lot of calcium to the mix so in peat moss you definitely won't need any cal-mag.

The point is that the recipe can be very easily molded to perfectly fit any growing medium. The most important thing is to know your growing medium.

As far as organics go... well.... this gets a little complicated.

I see that you qualified your question by saying "not the bottled stuff", so I will try to answer the question in two parts.

Organic has become more of a political term than anything. In chemistry, organic simply means it contains a carbon molecule. It says nothing about quality, taste, nutritional content, or cleanliness. Plants grown with a high quality mineral based nutrient will always outperform organically grown plants in terms of growth rates. They will also have higher nutritional content. Taste is a hot issue so I will only say this: Hydroponic nutrients have the potential to make some very tasty and fragrant buds just like organics.


Based on these things it is obvious that people don't choose organic for any performance value, so there must be another reason. (for anyone who wants to say mineral nutes hurt the environment.....go back to school. When used correctly, there is no negative environmental impact whatsoever) If they think it is cleaner because hydro nutes contain chemicals, they are absolutely mistaken. Firstly, everything is a chemical. Water is a chemical. People need to stop saying things like "chemical fertilizers" and realize that organic nutes contain "organic chemicals". High quality hydro nutes are direct sourced from mines that pull minerals straight out of the earth. They are not contaminated during purification, and from a chemistry standpoint, the elements are in a superior form in terms of purity and availability. Organics relies on bacteria and enzymes breaking down decomposing organic material. Much of this material is feces. This is what always gets me. Ignorant organiphiles say that they don't want to give their plants hydro nutes because they don't want to consume the chemicals (this in itself is a retarded statement)..... but they will give their plants animal shit and then consume them..... what the fuck was that animal eating????? Think about what we give animals nowadays. Antibiotics, growth hormones, genetically modified foods, etc...... and then we want to put that on our plants, and consume them? Not to mention the fact that feces contains a ton of nasty shit that I don't want to be consuming. Did you know that food grown with human feces is considered organic?

Let me repeat that in a more dramatic fashion:

If you have every purchased organic produce from the store it is very possible that you have eaten produce grown with human feces.

In mexico they literally will use untreated sewage, straight from the sewers, to feed their organic crops. We get a ton of our organic produce from mexico.


Hydroponic crops contain none of this nastiness because the nutrients are clean. I would much rather eat (or smoke) clean plants with a higher nutritional content than plants grown using feces.



THAT BEING SAID

If you are a grower that uses earth worm castings and brews compost teas and has a little farm where you know exactly what your animals are eating and you use some of their feces, what you have is a beautiful example of a self sustaining cycle which will produce high quality crops without any investment in fertilizers. I have no problem with this whatsoever.

We know though that most "organic growers" are simply using crap they buy in a bottle which most likely contains sketchy ingredients, questionable ratios and elemental content, nasty animal feces, etc.......

Therefore, my problem is not with the concept of organic gardening, it is with the fact that most people have absolutely no idea what they are giving their plants but they think they are socially advanced because they are "organic gardeners". Drop the ego, get off your high horse, and accept organic formulas for what they are. ANOTHER WAY FOR COMPANIES TO MAKE MONEY.


Final words :

Self sustaining organic farms are sweet. People looking to grow organic should do it because it represents a natural approach to gardening. I think of it more like learning to live off the land. We are taking the decomposing organic matter and returning to the earth so that new plants can grow to feed the animals to make the feces to make more plants and so on and so on.

Since most of us cant keep a small self sustaining farm in our backyards we rely on nutrient companies to sell us organic fertilizers. This already defeats the concept because it is not self sustaining. People need to stop thinking of organic as just being what is fed to the plants and realize it should refer to a lifestyle choice. Buying general organics as opposed to general hydroponics does not make you an environmentalist. I have no problem with organics, just the people who grow using organics because they all seem to have their head 2 ft up their own ass and don't realize they are just making the same nutrient companies rich by buying their organic versions. I respect organic farmers and people who use organics for the right reasons. Other than that its a bunch of liberal douchebags who have absolutely no idea what they are talking about.

And let me reiterate one final time: Most organic nutrients contain a bunch of nasty shit beyond the things you want to give to your plants.

Personally, I would much rather give my plants top quality mineral nutrients and forget all the bullshit (literally).

Bud pics would help your cause

Hi cannabomber, I'd be very grateful if you can pass on the info on where to find Dyna on this side of the pond!

This is all good info, but nothing new to be honest with you. Im sure the more proficient growers around here have heard of a guy named Ph. He is the guy that really came up with the lucas formula. This is his website, you can download his spreadsheet and make your own nutrient profiles, which i recommend doing if you use GH. Pretty much everything that this canna guy said is all on the website, and it also has different nutrient profile recommendations and all that good stuff.

http://www.angelfire.com/cantina/fourtwenty/articles/profiles.htm

The conclusion I have come to after a ton of reading and research, is exactly what these guys say. Cannabis will grow just fine in a wide variety of nutrient profiles, there are other much more important factors than nutrient profiles.

BTW, Pro-Tekt is super watered down, not that great of a product. Its only 7.8% potassium silicate, so im assuming the other 92% is water. So thats a 35 dollar a gallon bottle of water your paying for. I use yellow bottles silica, its over 53% potassium silicate.

Tohigh says the Dyna Gro base is one of the best out there, and as far as nutrients go, i take what he says as gospel. He said something about electrolytes, hopefully he will chime in.

I just dont get why you would use something other than GH micro and bloom. I have tried house and garden, and botanicare, both are way more expensive and dont produce better results. Worse if you ask me, but im not trying to start that argument.

funkymonkey said:

Hi cannabomber, I'd be very grateful if you can pass on the info on where to find Dyna on this side of the pond!

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her ya go funkymonkey

http://www.orchidaccessories.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=34

Cheers mate, I'll go take a look!

i as well use dyna-gro products.
i use their neem and pro-tekt. love the results.

Cannabomber............ good information fellow ICmager. Its great to get detail information on why you like a certain product. Its even better when you willing to help someone who is willing to give this line of nutes a try. I know they gave you hell on another thread when you were explaining why you like this nute line better than the others. The bickering was quite hilarious to me personally. The effort is appreciated. At least by me.