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Info about Quantum boards

hi fellas

before couple days i reveive my first led light which is a spider farmer
sf4000.since then (and couple days before i reveive it) i readed many things about the qb and im little bit confuzed..any way,i deside to build another one and i have couple questions.. i will buy the components from alibaba since is the cheaper and maybe the only option. i found couple sellers they sell parts of qb and i deside to go
with the kingbrite company which is the acceptable from what i ve read.
first of all i say that i dont need to buy heat sink because i have a shop near to me that sells aluminium 1mX2mX5mm for 150euro and is better price for me ,5mm is bigger heat sink from the 4mm they sell as standard heatsink and with the dimensions i can build lots of qb in the future..is not much work to prebuild the spiderfarmer and use it as a driver to make the holes in the aluminium.
now i want to ask about the K..which K is better for all the stages?? some people say 3,500k ,some say 3000k some say a compitation of 4000k and 3000k?? i dont know shit...and the other
thing,what is the difference about the qb with uv ir and with the qb that dont have??(and the price is very different)
one other question is..is better to go with 2 driver (2x240) or 1 for a 480w qb??
and some more question that i will write by the time:tiphat:

edit
which one??

lm301h+cree xp e2 660nm+(uv ir)
lm301h +epistar 660nm+uv+ir
lm301h +epistar 660nm
lm301b+cree xp e2 660nm+(uv ir)
lm301b +epistar 660nm+uv+ir
lm301b +epistar 660nm
 
Last edited:

Horselover Fat

Member
Veteran
LM301h and LM301b are the same diode. I would add IR or UV later separately if I wanted to.

Look at the driver specs and determine which drivers are most efficient for your dimming needs.

As for the spectrum: "some people say 3,500k ,some say 3000k some say a compitation of 4000k and 3000k" and yet nobody really knows. I'd get 3.5k, but there probably will not be much difference between them.
 

PetFlora

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
FYI, I contacted HGL inquiring about what Quantum means scientifically


Nada. It's just a sexy name



IMHO, SF is a superior light
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Hi there,:tiphat:
3500K are the best for veg+flower with the same board.(What I know)

But I ve 2 288pcs lm301b/3000K+Rspec(=660nm) QBs at run (Veg,dimmed about 60-70% Power) and my Plants grows well :biggrin:.
next 1-2 weeks I will switch to 12/12h and will add a extra UV-LED

https://www.lientec-led.com/collect...-uv-booster-strip-sets?variant=31229109731441 (=1*56cm set)

That's a disco light. There is no UVB in it. You can't buy a single uvb LED for that price. UVB comes from Mercury vapour choices. Primarily flo's.

The inclusion of UV and IR LEDs is for iphone users. It's just a waste of money. UV come's from Mercury and IR from incandescent lamps.

A sodium might be 2.7K and causes a little too much stretch. We accepted it though. Moving to 4K might leave you wishing you still had that stretch. I also chose 3K with extra 660's so basically warmer. The only issue I have had, is adding more red to get some stretch occasionally. I wouldn't go colder. 3k+660s is cold enough. If just using the 301 I would go with 3.5K myself.

I have heard the HLG rep say the lm301b and lm301h are the same, but I believe the manufacturer. The lm301h has more ppfd though it's in the green, and it's got the anti sulfration tech. So won't suffer from meaningful losses every year.
 
thanks a lot fellas,i deside to make a test grow with my new sf 4000
and if im satisfied at the end i will buy the same...


pet flora you are out of topic...once more
 

indagroove

Active member
Veteran
FYI, I contacted HGL inquiring about what Quantum means scientifically


Nada. It's just a sexy name



IMHO, SF is a superior light

Yeah, it's like Kleenex, a brand name for facial tissue. Everyone calls it kleenex, because they were the innovators that many many people copied.

SF a superior light? I find that difficult to believe, especially since HLG only uses top bin diodes and SF does not. I'd love to hear your rational tho.
 

MLD

Member
I'm also planning to buy a Kingbrite within the next two months.

I'm growing in a 4x4 in a tropical climate. It's always hot and humid. There isn't much I can do about the heat, so getting a light that allows me to minimize heat in the tent is essential.

I'm leaning towards the Kingbrite w55 strips vs. the QBs for the reasons of better coverage and less heat. I plan to mount the drivers outside the tent. I have not contacted Kingbrite to ask about this yet, but I don't like that the w55 strips are not offered with the UV light - where the QBs are. Should I care about this?

I know that the 480w is sufficient for a 4x4 tent, but I have no issue spending a bit more to get the 600w and dim it down when necessary. Is this complete overkill or will I benefit from the extra watts?

I'm undecided on whether to get 1 light or two smaller lights (600w vs. 2x320w). There is no 300w version, so I'd be up to 640w with two. I am not running CO2. The main reason I like getting two lights is that they would be on two seperate drivers. If one driver/light were go stop functioning, I'd still have another light working while I get replacement parts. Also, replacement drivers would be much cheaper this way.

3000k vs. 3500k.... Any input? I'm leaning towards the 3000k to have more power to flower. I will definitely be going with Samsung H diodes and Cree - aiming for the best I can get.
 

Lost in a SOG

GrassSnakeGenetics
Imo get the 3.5 if you plan to veg under it as well..

Many flower under 4k but i prefer nearer 3.5 for flower.. and 3k is fine as well just a bit red for vegging..
 

indagroove

Active member
Veteran
I'm also planning to buy a Kingbrite within the next two months.

I'm growing in a 4x4 in a tropical climate. It's always hot and humid. There isn't much I can do about the heat, so getting a light that allows me to minimize heat in the tent is essential.

I'm leaning towards the Kingbrite w55 strips vs. the QBs for the reasons of better coverage and less heat. I plan to mount the drivers outside the tent. I have not contacted Kingbrite to ask about this yet, but I don't like that the w55 strips are not offered with the UV light - where the QBs are. Should I care about this?

I know that the 480w is sufficient for a 4x4 tent, but I have no issue spending a bit more to get the 600w and dim it down when necessary. Is this complete overkill or will I benefit from the extra watts?

I'm undecided on whether to get 1 light or two smaller lights (600w vs. 2x320w). There is no 300w version, so I'd be up to 640w with two. I am not running CO2. The main reason I like getting two lights is that they would be on two seperate drivers. If one driver/light were go stop functioning, I'd still have another light working while I get replacement parts. Also, replacement drivers would be much cheaper this way.

3000k vs. 3500k.... Any input? I'm leaning towards the 3000k to have more power to flower. I will definitely be going with Samsung H diodes and Cree - aiming for the best I can get.

IMO it's better to run UV separately anyway, and on a different on/off schedule throughout the day instead of constantly whenever the lights are on.
 

OakyJoe

OGJoe / Wiener und kein Allemann
Veteran
When it comes to 660nm i would always go with Osram/Cree Chips, never go with the Epistar, i really can't talk for them!

When it comes to UV/IR try to take some not onboard, better spend that extra to the 660nm chips and put some IR/UV seperate inside the tent...

always take the lm301h, try to avoid the b.

for example an lm301b with 660 epistar & uv/ir wont be really bad but in compare with some lm301h with osram/cree chips & seperate uv/ir they cant beat it. not in quality, not in price :)

i always go with the 3500k ones, from veg to harvest since years :)

useful:

https://www.samsung.com/led/lighting/mid-power-leds/3030-leds/
https://www.osram.de/os/applications/horticulture-lighting/index.jsp
https://www.cree.com/led-components/products/xlamp-leds-discrete/xlamp-xp-e2
https://www.epistar.com/EpistarEn/caseDetail?Id=39
 
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Brother Nature

Well-known member
When it comes to 660nm i would always go with Osram/Cree Chips, never go with the Epistar, i really can't talk for them!

When it comes to UV/IR try to take some not onboard, better spend that extra to the 660nm chips and put some IR/UV seperate inside the tent...


always take the lm301h, try to avoid the b.

for example an lm301b with 660 epistar & uv/ir wont be really bad but in compare with some lm301h with osram/cree chips & seperate uv/ir they cant beat it. not in quality, not in price :)

i always go with the 3500k ones, from veg to harvest since years :)

useful:

https://www.samsung.com/led/lighting/mid-power-leds/3030-leds/
https://www.osram.de/os/applications/horticulture-lighting/index.jsp
https://www.cree.com/led-components/products/xlamp-leds-discrete/xlamp-xp-e2
https://www.epistar.com/EpistarEn/caseDetail?Id=39


I'm looking at adding some UV and IR to my current setup as well as a couple lm301h boards, why do you recommend having the IR/UV separate as I see most of the boards with them built in?
 

OakyJoe

OGJoe / Wiener und kein Allemann
Veteran
I'm looking at adding some UV and IR to my current setup as well as a couple lm301h boards, why do you recommend having the IR/UV separate as I see most of the boards with them built in?

Most of em ein on the Same circuit as the rest of the Panel, Some Build them separated with on/off but u still have to activate/deactivate them separate without any change to automate them.

Since you don’t need IR/UV always u better invest that into separate chips and spend that free slots from uv/ir for some more 660nm

Cheers
 

MLD

Member
Most of em ein on the Same circuit as the rest of the Panel, Some Build them separated with on/off but u still have to activate/deactivate them separate without any change to automate them.

Since you don’t need IR/UV always u better invest that into separate chips and spend that free slots from uv/ir for some more 660nm

Cheers

I plan to order the following very soon:

2 x Kingbrite 320w w55 strip lights OR 1 x 600w w55 strip light for 4x4
I will get the Cree 660nm.

As I will be ordering from Kingbrite, what product of theirs would you recommend for UV and IR?
 

chilliwilli

Waterboy
...spend that free slots...for some more 660nm

Cheers

Hey OkayJoe when i have the choice between a board with 512pcs Samsung LM301H + 32pcs cree xpe2 660nm leds or 504pcs Samsung LM301H + 72pcs CREE 660nm i should better get the one with more 660nm chips?

In the swiss growers forum it was mentioned that the lm301h are basical the same as the lm301b. The difference in output are only max. 3% That its because samsung wants a bigger slice of that growers cake so they put an h for horticultur on their existing chips. Can anyone confirm this or not?

Thx chilliwilli
 

Brother Nature

Well-known member
The H's are always top BIN while the B's have variable BIN. Meaning the H's will produce a higher quality light across the whole board. Even if it is only a 3% difference, in 1000 grams 3% is another ounce. Scale that up more and 3% becomes a big increa$e.
 
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