What's new
  • Please note members who been with us for more than 10 years have been upgraded to "Veteran" status and will receive exclusive benefits. If you wish to find out more about this or support IcMag and get same benefits, check this thread here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

Mosaic Virus in Cannabis pics

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
I've always gone with ~160mg per gallon of aspirin, crushed.

Can you show some supporting info about physan 20 before everyone with some streaking on their leaves runs and kills their plants with ammonia?

Physan 20 has been shown to stop TMV on tobacco. I do not know of it's effects on cannabis, if any. However it is an all around anti-viral, anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, which is safe to use on cannabis.
This is everything I have on Physan (can't remember where I got this):


Physan 20

I use physan to make sure sterile seedlings go into sterile coco.
Once they are up with seed leaves open gathering light,
I water them daily with pH 6 water for a week, then go to weak nute... when the seed leaves start to yellow I start to increase food...
I have never used a mat, but the room is climate controlled...

One other thing I do, that may be merely superstition but seems to hold true anecdotally, is to germ seeds only during a waxing moon... they seem healthier to me, but I have no hard data proving so...

Quote:
SEEDS/SEEDLINGS/CUT FLOWERS

Cut Flowers in containers, tubes, and decorative vases - Bacterial Stem Plugging.
To eliminate stem plugging (which restricts uptake of water) and to control bacteria and fungi (which create ethylene gas, a cause of petal drop), flower spikes should be hardened by keeping the stems in PHYSAN 20 solution during harvesting, storage and shipping.
USE: 1 teaspoon of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.



Plant Cuttings - Begonia, Chrysanthemum, Fuchsia, and Geranium.
For controlling Crown Gall, Gray Mold Leaf Spots, and Powdery Mildew, soak completely immersed cuttings 2-5 minutes in 1-1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water. Plant in compost completely saturated in PHYSAN 20 solution.
USE: 1-1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.



Seeds and Seedlings - Damping Off
Treat seeds and seedlings by soaking in a solution of 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water for 5 minutes. Fill the flask containing the seed or seedlings with enough PHYSAN 20 solution to completely cover the seeds/seedlings. Drain the PHYSAN 20 solution off the seeds/seedlings before planting. Use a fresh solution of PHYSAN 20 for each flask.



Seedlings - Damping Off (ornamental plants only)
Make a solution of 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water. Soak seedlings in PHYSAN 20 for 5 minutes. Use a soak container large enough to completely immerse one flask of seedlings at a time. Change the solution daily or more often if solution becomes visibly dirty.
If a garden soil is used for planting seedlings, completely saturate the soil in PHYSAN 20. Place the soil in a pot or tray and add enough PHYSAN 20 solution to completely cover the soil. Let the solution drain through the soil or pour off excess.
USE: 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.



PHYSAN 20 solution is effective in stopping the spread of damping off when sprayed on seedlings. Spray seedlings so that all surfaces are thoroughly wet.
USE: 2 tablespoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 3 gallons of water or 2 tsp. PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.



Seedlings - Downy Mildew (Ornamental Plants only)
Most common on seedlings. The fungus sporulates on the lower surface of leaves as a white, sparse downy growth. The disease can cause the death of aerial plant parts. Spray seedlings so that all surfaces are thoroughly wet with Physan20 solution at 5-day intervals until under control.
USE: 2 tablespoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 3 gallons of water.

Quote:
CORROSION AND DAMAGE TO MATERIALS: PHYSAN in use dilutions, will not damage or mar natural rubber, glass, painted or plastic surfaces. It is non-corrosive to all metals in normally used applications for swabbing, mopping and rinsing. PHYSAN is non-flammable and non-explosive.

BACTERICIDAL ACTIVITY: PHYSAN has demonstrated bactericidal or bacteristatic activity against a wide spectrum of bacterial organisms such as:
Agrobacterium tumefaciens Pseudomonas sp.
Enterobacter Agglomerans Erwinia cypripedii
Erwinia carotovora Xanthomonas campestris

FUNGICIDAL ACTIVITY: PHYSAN is effective against a wide variety of fungi that may cause rots, rusts, blights, and mildew.
Botrytis cinerea Gnomonia veneta
Fusarium spp. Rhizoctonia solani
Penicillium digitatum Curvularia sp.
Gliocladium roseum Phythium aphanidermatum
Rhodoturula glutinis Helminthosporium sativum
Ophiobolus graminis Puccinia antirrhini
Ceratocystis ulmi Sclerotinia homeocarpa

VIRUCIDAL ACTIVITY: PHYSAN has been tested and proven to be effective in controlling Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV) on hard surfaces and tobacco leaves. TMV is the most stable of the viruses which are pathogenic to plants. PHYSAN’s ability to control TMV may indicate that it would be a good product to control other viruses.

PHYTOTOXICITY: PHYSAN generally is not phytotoxic to plants at concentrations below 400 ppm (1/4 ounce per gallon of water). However, this can vary depending on the type of plant and its stage of growth.
 

Greenmopho

Member
I've used Physan as a cleaning agent, but I refuse to use it on my live plants. Its not recommended for food crops, only for ornamental plants and flowers. Sure, it will prevent damping off, but do you want to smoke that later? Read the Physan 20 label, it contains ammonia and plenty of other ingredients that you shouldn't ingest, or even get near. I personally don't believe that there exists a truly "sterile" environment when it comes to growing plants. There will always be some type of bacteria present. The trick is to use some kind of beneficial bacteria. For damping off, I use Botanicare Aquashield. It is a live culture of Bacillus subtilis, sourced from Poultry Compost...I would rather have the beneficial bacteria fighting for me, instead of just wiping out all the bad AND good bacteria!

Nnw about TMV, I have no idea. A virus works at a sub-cellular level, essentially at the bio-molecular level. I am not sure as to what Physan's ingredients would do to the plants physiology to kill or cure a virus that is contained in molecular amounts within the plant cells!?! Thats like saying taking a bath in window cleaner will cure AIDS...just doesn't make sense to me...I'd like to see more info on this!

I do have a bottle of physan, and my grow store regularly carries it. I bought it for root rot, but cured my issues without needing it, so I've just used it to clean my gear between runs.

I just ordered the TMV test strips, so if my White Widow mother plant tests positive, I will experiment and see if the physan has any effect! I don't want to mess with plants going into bloom with physan!
 

Greenmopho

Member
VIRUCIDAL ACTIVITY: PHYSAN has been tested and proven to be effective in controlling Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV) on hard surfaces and tobacco leaves. TMV is the most stable of the viruses which are pathogenic to plants. PHYSAN’s ability to control TMV may indicate that it would be a good product to control other viruses.

This doesn't say it "cures" TMV, it just says it "controls" it "on hard surfaces and tobacco leave", meaning that it will destroy traces of the virus that can be found out in the open, such as on knives, surfaces, even on the leaves of the plant itself. This however says nothing about "curing" an already infected plant....

How would you administer Physan to attempt to "cure" TMV? Through normal feeding, systemically? or foliar application?
 

SGMeds

Member
Got a bottle in the mixing room too! ;-)


Soft enough I use it to clean my hands while taking strikes... and all the equipment.

Certainly wouldn't recommend anything on the label for MMj use, but I do dip my strikes in solution of 2 drops Physan to 1 gal RO... 2 drops only.

No burn at all... not even days after the soak & dip.

Guy I knew root fed it by the label once... killed the plant... kinda figures.
 

Greenmopho

Member
Sorry!
That's incorrect.
Physan will not kill your plants.
I have used it without any ill effects.
I am not suggesting you use it.
Just mentioned it because of TMV connection.

Read the brown algae thread, and read the label on your bottle of Physan 20. If it doesn't kill your plants, and you smoke them, it will eventually kill you. Plenty of people on icmag in that thread can tell you that it killed their plants. It says on there not to be used in greenhouses with food crops, not even for cleaning a greenhouse that will have food crops in it!!!!!
 

VenturaHwy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I sure wish someone with credible botany credentials would clear up the confusion regarding whether or not it is correct to speak of
a mosaic virus on cannabis as a Tobacco Mosaic Virus.

Personally I feel that calling this "TMV" is a major mistake and an Urban Legend needing to be confronted and laid to rest.





I tend to agree with SGMeds level of skepticism about some of the pictures in this thread btw.
However, there are certainly some that look like a mosaic virus for sure.

Stickying this thread for now.


Here are the viruses that can infect cannabis -

At least five viruses cause problems in hemp: the hemp streak virus (HSV), alfalfa mosaic virus (AMV), cucumber mosaic virus (CMV), arabis mosaic virus (ArMV) and hemp mosaic virus (HMV)
(McPartland 1999).

http://www.druglibrary.org/olsen/hemp/IHA/iha03111.html

Viruses rarely kill Cannabis. They only exist and replicate in living plants. Viruses can, however, seriously reduce yields. Once acquired, they are nearly impossible to eradicate. Viruses invade all parts of plants. Pollen and seed infections transmit viruses to subsequent generations.
Five viral syndromes are described in the literature. In addition to these naturally-occurring infections, Hartowicz et al. (1971) screened 22 common plant viruses for their ability to infect wild hemp. Over half the viruses could infect Cannabis.
The hemp streak virus (HSV) is frequently cited on fiber cultivars in Europe. Foliar symptoms begin as a pale green chlorosis. Chlorotic areas soon develop into a series of interveinal yellow streaks or chevron-stripes. Some-times brown necrotic flecks appear, each fleck surrounded by a pale green halo. Flecks appear along the margins and tips of older leaves and often coalesce. Streak symptoms predominate in moist weather, flecks appear during dry weather. Leaf margins become wrinkled and leaf tips roll upward, leaflets curl into spirals. Whole plants assume a "wavy wilt" appearance.
The hemp mozaic virus (HMV) has been described on fiber cultivars in Europe and drug cultivars in Pakistan. Symptoms were described as a gray leaf mosaics. Three other viruses have been cited on European hemp—the alfalfa mozaic virus (=lucerne mozaic virus), cucumber mozaic virus, and the arabis mozaic virus. Many insects transmit these viruses as they feed from plant to plant. According to Ceapoiu (1958), the worst vectors of Cannabis viruses are bhang aphids (Phorodon cannabis), greenhouse whiteflies (Trialeudodes vaporariorum), onion thrips (Thrips tabaci) and green peach aphids (Myzus persicae).
 

VenturaHwy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
My pictures -

Here's some virus shots from a plant that has had it for many years. The cuttings are affected when they are rooting and they slow down growing. Then as they grow faster they don't show as many signs...

 

VenturaHwy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Also some of the pictures on this thread are not viruses. And to say that the blueberry "mutant" is not a virus when it looks just like a virus, I would like to see some kind of proof rather than someone just saying it is not.... We know viruses can be spread through seed.
 

Sam_Skunkman

"RESIN BREEDER"
Moderator
Veteran
I see both Mosaic Viruses and one we call Wrinkle Leaf which comes in mild to severe versions if they are even the same virus. I see them every year and I kill any plants that express symptoms. I use mostly seed, grow out huge numbers and use a lot of imported seeds. I find problem plants I kill them, end of story. But even if you get virus free seed or clones you need to keep them that way, and insects are vectors, as well as nematodes in soil, and pots, tables, tools all need to be kept clean, and new clones are just as likely to have a virus as a pest like mites. Until the industry offers certified virus free clones like the wine industry does with viticulture clones, the problem will continue to spread.
Testing for virus could help in the short term.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=3636886&postcount=159

-SamS
 

Noobian

Green is Gold
Veteran
Would love to hear the OP's opinion on these recent posts, but oh yeah he was banned from contributing anymore. WTF is going on with this place???
 

Guest423

Active member
Veteran
I've unfortunately seen plants that look like every picture in these posts. A grow partner and I struggled with what Wandering Roman was trying to explain. It got so bad that we scrapped the whole grow, got rid of all plants, got new lights, new containers, new soil, new utensils,scrubbed the walls and floors, ect.

After doing all that it still wasn't gone, my buddy ended up selling his place and moving, he bought all new stuff again and started over like he never grown in his life, new spot and all. Everything is great now.

I searched the net at the time and read everything I possibly could about virus's, diseases, pathogens, ect, ect. What I think happened in our situation is we put some plants outside and after they vegged and got big we took some cuts off them and brought them into our grow, real dumb mistake and a lesson learned.

I live in farm land, like Sam said about the insects being vectors is what I thought happened to us, I think an insect gave something to our plants, not sure what it was but we called it the plague lol, it was the worse thing ever.

Them immature bud pics of WR's are horrid, what happens is sometimes the plant can be totally healthy and grow nice with no symptoms then all of a sudden a few weeks into flowering all your buds turn brownish tan, the hairs wither, and you get NO trichome coverage, period. Your grow is done from that point on, no added weight, no crystals, no new hairs, nothing...your toast.

I think this "thing" i'm talkin about is a whole different beast then the mosaic problems 99% of growers talk about with the little leaf crinkle and molted patterns. I have plants that produce the mosaic like mentioned alot of the Chems, OG's, Kushes, White, ect, do that, but you still have successful grows and it really isn't an issue. Thats what seperates it IMO.

I just hope I never see the PLAGUE again lol!!!!!
 

10k

burnt out og'er
Veteran
Would love to hear the OP's opinion on these recent posts, but oh yeah he was banned from contributing anymore. WTF is going on with this place???

:faint:

:coffee:

:blackeye:

I'll have to look into that Noobian and see if it can be undone.
 

JJScorpio

Thunderstruck
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Would love to hear the OP's opinion on these recent posts, but oh yeah he was banned from contributing anymore. WTF is going on with this place???

I banned him. His previous handle was banned for being rude, and if you check his post history on this handle you'll see he continued the rudeness.

But seeings you called us out as unfair, did you look at his posts first or just complain out of the blue?
 

Noobian

Green is Gold
Veteran
Hello JJ, I made that post because I read thru this entire thread and got to the end where several people were challenging the OP's theory (StS among others) and then I see he can't come back on here to defend himself. I fully understand that you guys have to be the long arm of the law and maintain order but isn't the purpose of this site to disseminate cannabis related knowledge? That was certainly what I was getting from this thread, useful information, and then it just stopped. As to your question, yes I most certainly looked at Wandering Roman's last posts, I always do when I see someone who I feel was contributing positively get banned. I want to know what exactly they said that got them tossed so I don't do that myself. From the last publicly available posts I read there wasn't anything he wrote that I considered "bannable", he was being an ass but so what? I don't understand why people can sometimes be so thin skinned online, it's not the real world, it's a cyberspace. Insults in this place are like a fart in the wind if you have any kind of intestional fortitude. And I am not directing that comment to anyone in particular it's just a trend I see on lots of sites i visit. That was the reason why I posted, I was frustrated that a good thread had come to an abrupt halt like that. I'm not hating on you or your decision just didn't understand the reasoning. Thanks for the clarification and have a good day/night?
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top